free hp using the ais

o.k. , before i start let me say that i did this to see how it would work, on my gsxr 750 i did a similiar mod using the pair valve and got 3 hp, i have not dynoed my bike before so i dont have a baseline, but unless someone can give me a good reason this wont work i cant see why it wouldnt give similiar gains. this was somewhat labor intensive , took me ablout 3 hours but i was learning as i went so it could take you less time, it would be easy enough to undo if you did not like it what i did was use the vacuum created by the ais valve to place a vacuum on the crancase to reduce crancase pressure to increase hp. start by removing the lowers, side panels and proping the gas tank up, after messing for 20 minutes to remove the ais valve i removed the exhaust from the exhaust port end and from the front of the exup valve and then easily removed the ais valve, there are 5 vacuum hoses to remove, then trace the wire that goes back under the seat and unplug that you should now have the ais valve in your hand i put the valve in a vise so i could remove the part the wire goes into, this is the actual valve, remove it using the 4 scews and then pull off the rubber valve part it should look like this when the rubber is removed

the little black rubber valve is what conrolls when the ais creates vacuum and when it doesnt , we want it to creat vacuum all the time, now put the gold valve back in the assemly, and remount the ais, making sure all of youur vacuum line are hooked back up correctly, the larger one is the one that runs back under the seat, rerout the wire the way it was stock and plug the connector in remount the exhaust now we will go to the back of your airbox, follow the crankase breather from the block up to the center of the back of the airbox, remove it completely the vacuum line that goes onto the back right corner of the airbox is the ais line, remove it from there, if you are not sure start your bike and you will fell vacuum, what i did was cut the ais line directly over top of the crancase breather, then i put a 90 degree connector and ran the stock crankcase vacuum line that i shortend down to the crankcase, i have attached a pic then plug off the ports on the airbox that you just removed the vacuum lines from , put your body work back on and you are done total about $3 in parts from ace hardware

i have only taken the bike for a short ride, and it does feel like it revs quicker interestingly with the bike started and sitting still if i remove the oil filler and place a piece of papper over the hole , at idle it blows the paper away from the hole, but when i rev the bike it suck the paper againt the hole, so it is creating a good amount of vacuum, also i didnt get any popping when i rode the bike, but when i removed the oil filler it popped like crazy, i guess fresh oxygenated air in the exhaust goes pop the bike also revs very quickly in nuetral , i am going to ride the bike a lot this weekend , and i will let you know more on monday, i also plan on dynoing the bike monday so will see what she makes, if anything is unclear , or anyone has any comments please feel free

Where you riding to?

the sunday ride, and im not sure where tommorow, but somewhere

some ideas ive had after a day of pondering, 1) if unplugging the ais doesnt give you an error code you could just unplug it, as the valve is normally open, connect the ais line to your crancase breather, plug the ports on the airbox and call it a day, total time about 20 minutes 2) when i dyno it, ill dyno it with the oil filler cap on and off, this wont give the full effect of the mod, but it will give an idea of how the bike responds with negative pressure in the crakcase

I had posted that I was going to do this on my 01 as many tuners are doing this and reporting gains of 2-4 HP. The 01 has a vacuum operated valve so it will have to be bypassed or defeated and I am not sure if I can do it with the exhaust in place.I also found a one way valve (poor mans krankvent) that I am currently running which seems to have helped. I will try to get this done before I dyno again. I don't have good baselines for all my mods as our local dynos are in shops that don't want to do just dyno runs unless you are buying parts from them and letting them install them. I guess they don't appreciate do-it-yourselfers.

put a ball bearing in the vacuume line that operates the valve

well after a weekend of riding it def. did some good, i performed my ais mod and the airbox mod on friday, so i have a 03' with an akro slip on and these two mods, saturday was all around town riding , the bike felt the same as before, still my beautiful midrange, precise throttle response, no backfiring at all, just felt like my bike today , i rode with 2 03' gsxr 1000's 1 stock with a slip on , i did a fourth gear roll on with the stock one and it was extremely close , i just edged him out but at the top of 4th we came top a big sweeper, i stayed in front of him untili backed out at like 170 and he was a behind me like 5 bike lengths i did a 5th gear roll on , with the 1 with the slip on, we started at about 70 mph, we were dead even untill i hit 11000 rpm then he pulled out a half a bike length i am really really happy, from what ive read on the board this is not at all typical, ill dyno it tommorow and let you guys know

the valve on the 01 is a normally closed valve so plugging the 1/4" line would not work, spring pressure would have to be reduced or valve gutted to work, I will just make up my own manifold and bypass it.

I would like to see before and after dyno charts.

i dyno'd it today my peak number of 137 is not that great, but the curve is the nicest ive seen since my 996 not a dip in the entire thing., of interest to this post, if you look closely at the roll on you will see 1 line slightly below the other, this lower line is what i got when i removed the oil filler cap, about 1hp less all across the flat part at the top of the rev range, i then put the cap back on and got an identical run to the first run, these runs were done about 10 seconds apart, what this means to me is the r1 does make more power with a vacuum in the crancase, when i removed the oil filler cap it took away the vacuum, but im sure there was still not as much positive pressure as there would be stock, so i dont think this shows the full benefit of the mod, my friend just bought a 03' maybee i can get him to let me do dyno runs pre and post, anyway hope this helps some of you to improve your bike

I don't know what you got before the run but mine puts out that much when it was stock. It just seems like your tweeking to the extreem. No offense. I think I will leave it alone. Just add a full system that would be good gains.

But it wasn't dyno'd on the same machine fastblue. A 137 on that dyno could be equal to a 144 on the dyno you ran on. not saying it is but that no dyno will read the same as another. The numbers don't mean crap, the difference between those lines does. It's those little tweaks that can make the difference. Props to 'ya vcyclenut. That will be something for me to do this winter while I have the motor out.

I agree with you about the dyno's. I guess I'm just getting old, LOL I'm getting tired of squeezing every bit out of a bike that I all I want to do is ride. LOL I'm not taking anything from vcyclenut I'm glad he let us all in on it. PROPS TO him:thumbup

and if I understand this mod correctly the bonus is that you get a nice blue tinge to your exhaust fumes and smell a bit more like a 2-stroke? ;) Not sure if routing this way is advisable, but the more I think about it I cant actually see why not!

I love the smell of 2 stroke in the morning.

But I hate the sound of one in the morning. Especialy while I'm still sleeping. I think it's worse than a straight pipe Harley.