Want to know about oil, Click here (big scanned pics) [Archive] - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums

: Want to know about oil, Click here (big scanned pics)


R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:53 PM
p1

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:54 PM
p2

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:55 PM
p3

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:56 PM
p4

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:57 PM
p5

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:58 PM
p6

R1_abuser
08-28-2003, 11:59 PM
p7

Tom25
08-29-2003, 05:09 AM
So they spent all that money and did all of those tests and the best conclusion that they have is "it is up to you which oil to choose." There is a lot of good info, but no clear answer:no

Road Relish
08-29-2003, 05:18 AM
Damn it , no conclusive data! Oh well good article, it is always up to you anyway!

JimmyD
08-29-2003, 05:29 AM
I think there are a couple of winners, as well as some answers. First it appears that Amsoil, and Mobil 1 auto and car oils are better all around than most anything else, Motul seemed to do well until the wear tests came in. . Second Yamalube performed really poorly all the way around, with most $1 a quart car oils doing as well. And I think finally that synthetics are superior in every category! The you choose part is always gonna be there, because some guys just won't spend the extra $. So that's where the choice comes in.

manjula
08-29-2003, 06:39 AM
any way well done R1_abuser

thanks buddy.

keep up the good work. :thumbup :beer

Ricerockt
08-29-2003, 07:06 AM
It does tell you that you are wasting your money on Mobil1 MX4t when Amsoil performs as well and better in some tests and is $2-$3 a quart cheaper. That's why I use it. :p

Pur Pony1
08-29-2003, 07:29 AM
Amsoil is great. I loved it so much I became a dealer. Good article by the way so far. I didnt get a chance to finish it yet but will.

thanks

drinktoo
08-29-2003, 09:19 AM
HEY MODS is there anyway we can get this as a sticky in the mechanic help section.... BTW excellent post:rock

Looneybomber
08-29-2003, 09:22 AM
i use the mobil1 15w-50, it did pretty good in the tests. :)

GXRKLR
08-29-2003, 09:38 AM
Good job. Being the selfish bastard I am, I didn't think to scan that in for everyone.

JimmyD
08-29-2003, 12:42 PM
Think Amsoil is the way to go at 595 a quart. I am using the MX4T now, after I finally found it.

R1_abuser
08-29-2003, 01:11 PM
Well this article is part two. When I get a chance I will scan in part one. So look for it soon, like sometime tomorrow. Both articles have some really good info. I thought by posting this it would answer a lot of question that people had out there. Ever notice when some one posts a question about oil it never really gets answered. So I hope this helps all those people out there.

fasteddie
08-29-2003, 02:28 PM
Got a 5 gallon jug of 15W-50 Mobil 1 @ WalMart for $19.08.
What's that...$3.80 a qt ?

Skeeter
08-30-2003, 05:24 AM
Originally posted by fasteddie
Got a 5 gallon jug of 15W-50 Mobil 1 @ WalMart for $19.08.
What's that...$3.80 a qt ?

Damn, five gallons for $19.00? That's one heck of a deal for
Mobil 1. Works out to .95 cents per quart. Are you sure it's not
a one gallon jug? I'd like to find that Wal-Mart. :fact

02R1guy
08-30-2003, 06:09 AM
Originally posted by fasteddie
Got a 5 gallon jug of 15W-50 Mobil 1 @ WalMart for $19.08.
What's that...$3.80 a qt ?


Thats what I did the day I read the article:) I use to be a big user of Bel Ray synthetic but I see it didn't do so well. Mobil 1 from Wal-mart in 5 quart jugs changing oil at 1500 to 2000 miles depending on the rides. I don't think I'll be worrying about anything not even the clutch. I have been using it for about 3000 miles(hard riding too) I never clutch my wheelies either. 12,500 miles running strong.


It IS your choice to spend $10+ dollars a quart or less on a superior oil...............

toejam
08-30-2003, 06:20 AM
Originally posted by Skeeter
Damn, five gallons for $19.00? That's one heck of a deal for
Mobil 1. Works out to .95 cents per quart. Are you sure it's not
a one gallon jug? I'd like to find that Wal-Mart. :fact

he means 5 quarts....not 5 gal.

JimmyD
08-30-2003, 05:50 PM
I think I'll stick with MX4T, then when it's time Amsoil. It's probaly just me being paranoid but I put in the 15w50 and my idle dropped a little, plus started running about 3 degrees hotter on my temp guage, E-mailed Mobil 1 and they said drain the oil and do not use the 15w50 in the R1. Only MX4T. So I did, and everything returned to normal. Maybe it's not hot enough here to justify the thicker oil. Once the MX4T was put in it shifted better too.
Guys remember that the "w" in the oil means winter. Sport rider in the part one of the article said it meant weight, the retracted it. That means, without getting too technical, that it acts like a 15 weight at 32 degrees. It behaves like a 15 would at that temp, but not like a 15 weight at "normal" temp. So it's not a 15 wieght on start up. You following me? It then maitains a 50 wt. at high temp. It's always a 50 wt, just doesn't thicken like one at cold temps.
The common myth is that the oil is a lower wt. at start up and thickens when it gets hot. Wrong. It "acts" like a lighter oil ONLY in extreme cold. And even then it's still thicker than when hot, just not as thick as if it were a true 40 or 50 wt. It would be like glue if it was a single wt. I know this sounds like a science class, but I have alot of knowledge on this. I think I'll stick with a 10w40. If you ride in real hot ALL the time a15/50 might be O.K., just didn't work for me.

JimmyD
08-30-2003, 07:22 PM
Anyone else notice these issues with the 15w50 auto oil?

R1_abuser
03-01-2004, 04:55 PM
Justin case you didn't get to read it.

R1Budha
03-01-2004, 05:01 PM
i got a better idea....
use cheaper oil and change it more often.
The test never states anything about the acidity that oil develops as it is run in an engine.
Personally, i just change my oil every 1500-200 miles and use a new filter.
I've never had a problem related to oil in 15 years of riding and racing.

R1Gladiator
03-01-2004, 05:21 PM
Look like i'm staying with mobil 1 every 2,000 miles in winter and 1500 in summer.

Youngblood6
03-01-2004, 05:49 PM
Nice post R1Abuser!! Very informative and it touched on a lot of factors that oils are judged on!! Good work bro

MACH1SMO
03-01-2004, 07:47 PM
Another satisfied Amsoil customer here. Been using their products in my vehicles for over five years now and have been completely happy.

aero
03-01-2004, 08:58 PM
thats all bla bla bla to me!

martinc
03-01-2004, 09:13 PM
Originally posted by drinktoo
HEY MODS is there anyway we can get this as a sticky in the mechanic help section.... BTW excellent post:rock

Done!

It will be transfered to a database we have plans on building (and that I most likely have the burden to) on this great forum of ours.

Greg Crowe
03-21-2004, 05:49 PM
I read a lot into the final paragraph that basically states that you feel free to choose yourself whether to use a car oil or a motorcycle specific oil. If they had found any reason whatsoever to not use car oils in a motorcycle, they would have have pointed that out very clearly.

I do know that a few years ago, Mobil One car oil and motorcycle oil were the EXACT same oil. The motorcycle oil was put into production in ANTICIPATION of the car oil formula changing over time. Three years ago they were the exact same. Right now, it looks like the only difference between car Mobil One and motorcycle Mobil One is that Mobil removed the Magnesium from the car oil. Since there was not any moly in either, I feel comfortable continuing to run Mobil One car 10W-30 in my R1's. My 98 R1 has used Mobil One 10W-30 exclusively and is still on it's original clutch after being beat to death and heavily drag raced. It's transmission shifts better than any other 98/99 R1 I've ridden.

masonboy
05-26-2004, 09:15 AM
anyone ever heard of Royal Purple?

The article was very informative but i have no idea which oil to pick!?

Mrbrian
05-27-2004, 08:22 PM
ok time to spell it out for all the LAMENS in here!!!


Keep it simple b/c I know a whole bunch of us, who just "ride" want to know:

What does everybody use?

Car oil?
Bike oil?
Type?
Weight/Viscosity?
Why?

plain and simple....
Thanks all, and dont hate on the simple minded bike owners who just love to haul ASS!!!

:rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock

ZebProctor
05-30-2004, 11:08 AM
comparison I came up with...

Mrbrian
05-30-2004, 07:33 PM
thats what i am talkin about..

what does all that mean?!
i have no problems saying that i have no idea!!
:dunno :dunno :dunno

ZebProctor
05-31-2004, 08:55 AM
Originally posted by Mrbrian
thats what i am talkin about..

what does all that mean?!
i have no problems saying that i have no idea!!
:dunno :dunno :dunno
well I don't know exactly what the tests are, and how they are done, but I do know that the higher the number the better..... so basically pick an oil with high enough numbers for you and go with it.... every oil on that list with the exception of the quaker state and mobil (the conventional not mobil 1) is a great motorcycle oil, I put the two conventionals on there for comparison. If you live in the cold, pick up a 5W something and if you're in a mild climate, a 10W something, and in the heat a 15W something..... I mean the temp isn't that big of a factor anyway because if it's under 40 degrees most people don't ride anyway.....

Firetank
06-25-2004, 02:25 AM
Ok Very informative post well done .....

Now as i live in Malta and the climate here is very hot what do you suggest ?? am i right in saying i start from 15w to 40 ???

And are we saying synth oil or normal ??

To be honest i am very low on milage as i just bought the new bike still under break in period but time will come soo to do the first service and still confused if i change to synth or not :dunno

02R1guy
06-25-2004, 05:08 AM
Originally posted by Firetank
Ok Very informative post well done .....

Now as i live in Malta and the climate here is very hot what do you suggest ?? am i right in saying i start from 15w to 40 ???

And are we saying synth oil or normal ??

To be honest i am very low on milage as i just bought the new bike still under break in period but time will come soo to do the first service and still confused if i change to synth or not :dunno


Stay with conventional for break in at 1000-1500 miles switch to a synthetic blend then at 2000-2500 or even 3000 miles go full synthetic. Thats what I did anyway. Get Mobil redcap 15w40 its a great oil and cheap at Walmart.

Firetank
06-25-2004, 05:59 AM
Thanks M8

Crimson Rush
06-25-2004, 06:26 AM
Umm, tough one. So for Midwest weather, gets hot in summer (90+degrees) Do I run 10w40, 15w40 or 15w50? I'm still lost but looks like the Motul 300v didn't do so badly?? The riding season weather here is mostly 70-80+ degrees I should point out, it only occasionally climbs to 90+. And I too am interested in which brand in particular would be best, I realize the "red cap" is a cheap synth to use that works well, but any others that are up there as well? Is it ok to switch to a full synthetic after running a semi-synth for roughly 10k miles?

Thx.

TravRSX
08-15-2004, 05:09 PM
my dealer lies! yamalube sucks??!? i've been using it...damnit...time to switch. I use Mobil 1 in my car, but i had heard reports of clutch slippage in the R1 with mobil 1...i don't know what to use next

02R1guy
08-15-2004, 06:50 PM
I've had Mobil 1 in my bike since 6k miles currently I have 19,359 miles to be exact and I'm on the original clutch

IMO it's all how the owner uses the clutch if it slips

Diablo1
08-21-2004, 07:38 PM
I'd be suspicious of any conclusions from this article. I was reading along when I came upon the nonsense about molybdenum being an oil additive in the metallic form. I laughed out loud at his stupidity. This guy doesn't understand jack about lubrication. Adding metallic molybdenum or any other metal to an oil would only serve as a nasty abrasive causing accelerated wear. Molybdenum is used in the form of molybdenum disulfide when it's used as a solid film lubricant. If this guy was an engineer, I'd ask him where he went to school, and suggest he ask for his money back.....:fact

todsurfsno
08-23-2004, 12:33 PM
So its OK to use the Mobil 1 15w50 (red cap) automotive oil in a bike?? Still very confused about all fo this and want to change my oil this weekend. People says it makes a difference. Been using just the stock Yamalube from the dealer since I have has my bike.

R1_abuser
08-25-2004, 01:14 PM
I have always used Mobile 1 in all my bikes and have never had any problems with the clutch.

BSTON122
10-07-2004, 09:48 PM
i have been using yamalube but i will be changing that asap. by the way nice post!!!!!!!!!!!

openclasspro
11-02-2004, 07:41 PM
Originally posted by Mrbrian
ok time to spell it out for all the LAMENS in here!!!


Keep it simple b/c I know a whole bunch of us, who just "ride" want to know:

What does everybody use?

Car oil?
Bike oil?
Type?
Weight/Viscosity?
Why?

plain and simple....
Thanks all, and dont hate on the simple minded bike owners who just love to haul ASS!!!

:rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock :rock amsoil 10-40 cycle oil -especially since i get it free

openclasspro
11-02-2004, 07:43 PM
i thought the only difference in the newer car oils versus say the honda gn 4-tated sc i believe is less content of emmision producing contents?

azazel_r1
11-02-2004, 09:29 PM
check those links are helpful to make the right choice

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

and then

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

lx210
11-10-2004, 10:18 AM
Wow !!! Very informative.

I like his breakin theory too.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/index.html#BreakIn

openclasspro
11-10-2004, 01:51 PM
your rings are probably designed to spin around the piston as it runs? guess this guy doesn't know what the stops are for in the ring gaps ????

thundercat68
01-31-2005, 12:27 AM
:cool: cool :cool: :thumbup

Viper333
01-31-2005, 03:18 AM
Originally posted by openclasspro
your rings are probably designed to spin around the piston as it runs? guess this guy doesn't know what the stops are for in the ring gaps ????


4 strokes dont have pins in the ring grooves, and the rings do walk in a circle around the piston.

The locating pin you are speaking of can be found on 2 stroke pistons. This is to keep the ring end gap running on a path that doesnt allow it to snag on a transfer, boost, intake, or exhaust port.


Nice article
Most of todays oils are damn good and if reasonably maintained are fine.
We always see threads asking about which oils are best.
Does anyone have any stories about oils that have sucked?

fastnotch2002
03-21-2005, 09:04 PM
its a 5 quart jug for $20, not a bad deal at all.

bigmike32172
04-23-2005, 01:23 PM
good post:thumbup amsoil it is

bluecali-r1
04-23-2005, 03:00 PM
I use Amsoil, in my 05 R1, and mobil 1 in my car. good post, thanks.:rock

!Ron
06-05-2005, 10:25 PM
i use royal purple in both my car and bike. great stuff, never tried amsoil. RP is kinda expensive though.

r1crazier
06-06-2005, 04:41 PM
:hellobye , What I would like to ask is the people useing Amsoil, Mobil 1 are these the standard oils or motorcycle oils.
Thank you for your answers.

02R1guy
06-06-2005, 05:32 PM
Originally posted by r1crazier
:hellobye , What I would like to ask is the people useing Amsoil, Mobil 1 are these the standard oils or motorcycle oils.
Thank you for your answers.

I've used both Mobil 1 redcap(20w-50) car and motorcycle Mobil 1 10w-40

as for Amsoil motorcycle oil only that I've used.

Gal R1
06-13-2005, 03:31 AM
Well friends,
to sum up,I want to be calm and to know I have the best oil in my engine,
Im from hot country (Israel) what is the best oil for my R1 03?

I want to improve my shifting ability (not to hear bad "nock" while shifting between "N" and 1st gear)

Thanks in advance!

JoRo
07-08-2005, 09:58 AM
Has anyone else noticed that Wal-Mart hasn't been selling the Mobil1 red cap lately? I tried two locations this weekend and had no luck at either.

02R1guy
07-08-2005, 10:26 AM
Because its GOLD CAP now and has been changed .

Goose
07-08-2005, 11:09 AM
Originally posted by Gal R1

I want to improve my shifting ability (not to hear bad "nock" while shifting between "N" and 1st gear)

Thanks in advance!

If you want it to go smoothly from neutral to first here's what you do...(as told to me by martinc if memory serves) this works:

pull in clutch lever and hold it for a count of 5 seconds

then apply slight pressure downward on the gear shifter (still holding clutch lever in)

then click it into first

Try it a few times and you'll get it. If you're patient you can get it to slip into first without any knocking or any other noises

:thumbup

As for oil, I run Motul 300v, good stuff:yesnod

ccs22
07-26-2005, 08:18 AM
Great job on scanning that, a good read. I was curious as to why they left out Redline, though. I know for a fact this is the best oil I've ever used. Good for almost 3 HP on the 600RR I built. I'd like to see what it would do in all those tests.
Another thing is that all factory products SUCK. You need to check yourself if you buy any lube that bears a MFR name on it. Funny thing is that Honda HP4 doesn't even meet the RR's requirements :2bitchsla

2much4much
11-11-2005, 10:35 AM
Bah I just change my oil every 3000Km's and call it a day, not like I'm keeping my bike for life, after a few years it's time 2 swap anyway!

laubin
11-14-2005, 08:09 AM
Originally posted by ccs22
Great job on scanning that, a good read. I was curious as to why they left out Redline, though. I know for a fact this is the best oil I've ever used. Good for almost 3 HP on the 600RR I built. I'd like to see what it would do in all those tests.
Another thing is that all factory products SUCK. You need to check yourself if you buy any lube that bears a MFR name on it. Funny thing is that Honda HP4 doesn't even meet the RR's requirements :2bitchsla
as of august Hondas oils are Jaso certified with an affixed jaso #..so its good to go

palerider998
11-15-2005, 06:23 AM
I switched from Yamalube to Mobil_1 10W-30 car oil for my last oil change on my '04 R1 and so far it's been running :boobies .

mzavala
11-20-2005, 10:49 AM
I was told not to use Car oils because of the friction additives make the clutch slip, Before that I had tried Castrol 20w-50w and it started burning oil & Oil pressure dropped, I now use Spectrum Gold Full Syn, it works great @ 13,500miles

YnOt
12-05-2005, 02:58 AM
Thx for the tip

rdempsey
12-15-2005, 07:59 AM
The theory about car oil causing clutch slippage relates to oils with large quantities of moly (often "energy conserving" rated). I say theory because I haven't seen any proof that those oils cause a clutch to slip.

More info on oil http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

gasbandit
12-15-2005, 08:50 AM
Originally posted by ccs22
Great job on scanning that, a good read. I was curious as to why they left out Redline, though. I know for a fact this is the best oil I've ever used. Good for almost 3 HP on the 600RR I built. I'd like to see what it would do in all those tests.
Another thing is that all factory products SUCK. You need to check yourself if you buy any lube that bears a MFR name on it. Funny thing is that Honda HP4 doesn't even meet the RR's requirements :2bitchsla which redline are you using?

R1_abuser
12-21-2005, 01:02 AM
Funny to see this post come back every once in a while. I posted way back 08-29-2003

speed3000gt
01-29-2006, 10:33 AM
Originally posted by 02R1guy
Thats what I did the day I read the article:) I use to be a big user of Bel Ray synthetic but I see it didn't do so well. Mobil 1 from Wal-mart in 5 quart jugs changing oil at 1500 to 2000 miles depending on the rides. I don't think I'll be worrying about anything not even the clutch. I have been using it for about 3000 miles(hard riding too) I never clutch my wheelies either. 12,500 miles running strong.


It IS your choice to spend $10+ dollars a quart or less on a superior oil...............


So all this reference to Mobil 1 oil is the car oil, correct?
Im going to WalMart to get some, somebody stop me if yall are reffering to motorcycle oil !!

zkattered
05-10-2006, 04:41 PM
I've been using Castrol Syntec (Full Synth) and have had no problems. runs cool (as cool as an R1 can, i guess) and shifts just fine. also like others guys said, i change it often and don't really worry that much about it.

crazybob
06-03-2006, 05:32 PM
How about the Shell Rotella T synthetic??????

02R1guy
06-03-2006, 06:10 PM
Originally posted by crazybob
How about the Shell Rotella T synthetic??????

I've used it....with no problems

I'm running Lucas Full synthetic motorcycle oil now and it shifts rather smooth for a clunky Yam gearbox.

crazybob
06-03-2006, 07:54 PM
Thanks......any other info on the Rotella????

02R1guy
06-04-2006, 05:49 AM
Originally posted by crazybob
Thanks......any other info on the Rotella????

It's cheap :dunno


Your still here ? Go and buy it :p

Guerrero
06-13-2006, 01:03 PM
I love MOBIL 1 for my turbo VQ35 and my 4runner, but for the bike I use MOTUL...

Confused!!! some of you guys put MOBIL 1 (car oil) in your R1s???
Is MOBIL 1 a good oil for the bikes?

Guerrero
06-22-2006, 10:43 PM
Can some one please answer my question?

According to this thread, some of the members use MOBIL 1 for their R1...

Do you use MOBIL 1 (car oil) for your R1?

EDIT

I got it now, I just change my oil and I bought MOBIL 1 MXT4 at Autozone... bike feels good!

Pirita1
07-09-2006, 09:39 PM
Hi, i use Motul 5100 in my 99 R1, is this oil good ?????
any advice??????

jester8881
07-09-2006, 10:23 PM
good thread:thumbup :corn

yamadude
08-14-2006, 07:54 PM
got 8k on the R1, been using yamalube......switching asap :boom I figured Id look on here, and see what some people thought....i got bombbarded with info.....and now i dont know which way ill go.......:dunno

x-d-x
03-06-2007, 08:25 AM
Shell Rotella Synthetic is looking the best oil out there for street bikes. It is made for trucks but it has very relatively few VIIs (Viscosity Index Improvers). Which is very important because gears on the bike run in the same oil bath.

yamahog
03-06-2007, 11:00 AM
It's alive after months :lol So what oil is everyone running now :dunno :lol

Pirita1
03-07-2007, 03:48 PM
It's alive after months :lol So what oil is everyone running now :dunno :lol

its true this tread still alive and i use motul 15w40 :riding

Harv2006R1
03-12-2007, 08:27 AM
I just switched to Royal Purple last weekend... haven't had a lot of riding on it since but so far it feels smoother than stock Yamalube. Sounds better too.

richie03r1
04-04-2007, 11:23 AM
Mobil mx-4t full synthetic for my R1. Castrol semi-synthetic for my honda, used to run Castrol Syntec in my bmw.

To all of you who use regular auto-oil in your bike, I say, what are you on glue?

jrog2323
04-30-2007, 06:06 PM
I agree with you , if you are using auto oil in a bike you must be on glue or some kind of mind bending substance ! , here's the part i can't get - a car is just something that gets you from A-B and keeps you dry when it's pissing rain , whereas your bike is a part of your life , a thing of beauty , a mechanical masterpiece , means more to some than a woman , your pride and joy that you spend all your extra money on trick bits ( hundreds of dollars euro's or pounds) to make it faster and sexier (as you all seem to like adding to the bottom of your threads i see )! ! , yet you bitch about the price of the good stuff , treat it to the best you can afford and thats that , its the blood of your bike!, as of which type to use - well i've been a mechanic / technician with BMW for many years and seen engine oils evolve through the years and had many bikes and a few R1's and other 1000cc yams - exup's etc and experimented with many oils as some were free as perks of the job , and my conclusion is cars use engine oil in the engine and a specific gearbox oil as their manual gearbox is separate from the engine and uses a dry clutch (like ducati) to achieve maximum gearbox efficiency and minnimum wear , but most bikes (like R1's) have the gearbox attached to the engine crankcase , use the same oil to lube the engine and gearbox at the same time and use a wet clutch in the same oil and also rev to 14000 rpm which is more than double what a car rev's to ! , so the oil has to do a lot more work to keep things smooth for the engine and the box and so it's properties wear out a lot faster , as you would expect. so 2000 mile oil changes are about right for any hard ridden sports bike
in my experience - motorcycle oil is designed with a specific balance to run a combined engine and gearbox , to minimise wear and give better gearchanges , i find that car oils work ok for a bit then gears get notchy after 500 miles which tells you that the oil is starting to wear out
i generally rate a bike oil to how well it lets you shift gear and how good the clutch works and that tells me a lot ! , anyway , i find that most fully synthetic motorcycle oils are good and 10/40 always works best , the box always feel slicker on fully synthetic then on regular oils or semi's , and the engine is always quieter , (engine ! not the loud pipe ! )if you ask me for a preference i would say there's a few are as good as each other at performing and mobil is not in my top 3 choices - i like motul , castrol and silkoline all 10/40 fully synthetic cycle oils ,
Respect your bike guys and it will respect you as the last thing you want is it going BANG 500 miles from nowhere ! USE GOOD OIL:hammer:

to sum things up -

most fully synthetic BIKE oils in 10/40 are good and change every 2000 m or once a year (whichever comes first.)


i see a few of you put quotes on this site
here's mine -

You don't respect the road till you have put some skin on it !

R1_abuser
05-07-2007, 01:10 AM
Man I started this thread in 2003. Makes me feel old.

Pirita1
05-08-2007, 05:56 PM
Well this article is part two. When I get a chance I will scan in part one. So look for it soon, like sometime tomorrow. Both articles have some really good info. I thought by posting this it would answer a lot of question that people had out there. Ever notice when some one posts a question about oil it never really gets answered. So I hope this helps all those people out there.

Greetings Abuser great thread!!!! but you dont put the part one of the article
hahahaha!!!!:bow

VSGONZO
05-10-2007, 10:29 PM
ok I went and changed my oil this evening after reading this thread. I know the last few post said not to go with an automotive oil, but I went with it anyways.

I put the 15w 50 gold cap (only one I can find). Anyways its raining so I didn't get to drive it around, but shifting it while in the garage into first felt really smooth (must be my head) Then when I rolled it around in neutral it just seemed to glide. Normally it has this little hissssss sound when I push it around.

Also I went with a mobile 1 m1-110 filter for like an old mazda. It is longer (just what I was looking for) than the stock one. Anyways I hope my engine don't blow up now.

martinc
05-11-2007, 04:51 AM
Use at least semi-synth oils in your engines;

That way,the same brand of oils being full synth or mineral can be used if you cant find the same brand semi-synth.

HTH do you think i brought my 99 R1 to over 300 000 kms??On the original transmission and only on my 2nd set of clutch plates!

I do 1 L of full synth and top it off with semi synth...add full synth or semi synth as you go...if its really hot,full synth.

speedster1
05-11-2007, 12:20 PM
I agree with you , if you are using auto oil in a bike you must be on glue or some kind of mind bending substance ! , here's the part i can't get - a car is just something that gets you from A-B and keeps you dry when it's pissing rain , whereas your bike is a part of your life , a thing of beauty , a mechanical masterpiece , means more to some than a woman , your pride and joy that you spend all your extra money on trick bits ( hundreds of dollars euro's or pounds) to make it faster and sexier (as you all seem to like adding to the bottom of your threads i see )! ! , yet you bitch about the price of the good stuff , treat it to the best you can afford and thats that , its the blood of your bike!, as of which type to use - well i've been a mechanic / technician with BMW for many years and seen engine oils evolve through the years and had many bikes and a few R1's and other 1000cc yams - exup's etc and experimented with many oils as some were free as perks of the job , and my conclusion is cars use engine oil in the engine and a specific gearbox oil as their manual gearbox is separate from the engine and uses a dry clutch (like ducati) to achieve maximum gearbox efficiency and minnimum wear , but most bikes (like R1's) have the gearbox attached to the engine crankcase , use the same oil to lube the engine and gearbox at the same time and use a wet clutch in the same oil and also rev to 14000 rpm which is more than double what a car rev's to ! , so the oil has to do a lot more work to keep things smooth for the engine and the box and so it's properties wear out a lot faster , as you would expect. so 2000 mile oil changes are about right for any hard ridden sports bike
in my experience - motorcycle oil is designed with a specific balance to run a combined engine and gearbox , to minimise wear and give better gearchanges , i find that car oils work ok for a bit then gears get notchy after 500 miles which tells you that the oil is starting to wear out
i generally rate a bike oil to how well it lets you shift gear and how good the clutch works and that tells me a lot ! , anyway , i find that most fully synthetic motorcycle oils are good and 10/40 always works best , the box always feel slicker on fully synthetic then on regular oils or semi's , and the engine is always quieter , (engine ! not the loud pipe ! )if you ask me for a preference i would say there's a few are as good as each other at performing and mobil is not in my top 3 choices - i like motul , castrol and silkoline all 10/40 fully synthetic cycle oils ,
Respect your bike guys and it will respect you as the last thing you want is it going BANG 500 miles from nowhere ! USE GOOD OIL:hammer:

to sum things up -

most fully synthetic BIKE oils in 10/40 are good and change every 2000 m or once a year (whichever comes first.)


i see a few of you put quotes on this site
here's mine -

You don't respect the road till you have put some skin on it !

Very good reply - I agree with you totally.
There is a big reason that manufacturers make separate bike oil, so USE IT.
I use Motul Fully Synthetic - I never use cheap "blood" for my engine. :thumbup

R1_abuser
05-16-2007, 12:21 AM
Greetings Abuser great thread!!!! but you dont put the part one of the article
hahahaha!!!!:bow

I did post it yeras ago but when they switched servers it must have been lost.

Thanatos Mithra
07-03-2007, 09:25 PM
Any one ever heard of "ROYAL PURPLE" full synth, I have buddy that swears by it, and claims to have increased hp/tq and a cooler running engine that run about 10-12 degrees lower than normal. Any input on this stuff?



Subscribed :)

Harv2006R1
07-04-2007, 08:28 AM
Yep, I use Royal Purple in my '06. Runs smoother, shifts easier and feels quicker. A little noisier in the clutch during idle but that's expected when running synthetic. Recommended.

1RFZY99
07-18-2007, 10:43 PM
Why are some of you guys using regular car motor oils for your bike? Cars oils are only designed to lubricate the motor itself, not the transmission. Most motorcycles like the R1 use the same oil to lubricate both. HP4 is a synthetic blend that works very well.

santos
08-27-2007, 07:13 PM
You can use regular oil in bike engines but recomended to changed every 2,000 miles ,
i not recommend AMSOIL one of my bikes starts to slipping clutches and every 2 weeks needs to add oil , i call one of my buddys and tell what i found and he told me that a few clients ,comes whit faulty bearings in the bikes cruisers whit slipping clutches ,every time that a seller of amsoil tries to sell me something ,i tell the problems that we found and they treat me as if i are a liar and i tell that i can proved whit a set of clutches that i have in my TOOLBOX ,and next stop the disscuss and said that they have insurance bla bla bla bla ,never paid the broken parts.
I reccomend syntethic oils ,but if you are a Drag racer use a regular oil ,never use synthetic oil in a new bike or engine the recommended breck in is 1500 miles ,
Personally i use MOTUL 7100 10W-40 changed every 4,000 miles .

stasis88
10-03-2007, 10:19 AM
I think its a 5 qt at walmart.

Pirita1
10-03-2007, 07:54 PM
This old post its alive!!!

Aus_Ash
11-07-2007, 08:05 PM
This old post its alive!!!


It surely is.

I am up to my first oil change since purchasing the 01 R1.

Its been running Motul Semi-Syn 5100 10W-40

I like the look of either the Mobil or Amsoil.

Anyone like to comment?

Also, anyone use the Motual Full-Syn 30V Factory?

flatout
11-07-2007, 09:24 PM
Amsoil 10w-40 works great in my R1.

PulpComic
02-13-2008, 04:54 AM
I enjoyed the article and the responses. I've been using Honda HP4S for the last 6,000 mi in my 02 R1. I'm a commuter and track day rider. On my average commute I do at least two 2nd gear slip the clutch wheelies and one or two power wheelies. Never had any clutch slipping at all. At the two track days my bike shifted flawlessly with and without the clutch. Recently, I just had extensive maintenance done on my 26k mi 02 R1. Including cam chain & manual tensioner, oil pump chain, full clutch replacement and spring (just for peace of mind and track days this Spring and Summer). This included removing the oil pan. My mechanic who services my three friends, mine and his R1 said the oil pan was pristine. He also remarked that the clutch had only minor burning on 1st&2nd plates, clutch basket had wear around 2nd gear (i'll blame that on learning slipping the clutch and a couple hundred wheelies later), lastly both chains had little to no wear but they were far less rigid and did need replacing. The results of this test do not deter me from using it at all, $8 a quart from any dealer round the way, I always get sales tax discounted, and where HP4S falls in the results there is little difference in the performance tests (far more in the chemical makeup). Amsoil is a good product but no one sells it locally and buying it online with shipping, preferred customer membership, and regular MSRP are not motivating me to invest. However, if I were a dealer I'd buy the big drum and sell the hell out of it and make a tidy profit because many riders seem to be turning on to the product.

VSGONZO
02-13-2008, 06:45 AM
bring back the dead. hehe I've been used the mobile 1 gold cap for the last several of thousand miles.

Now I'm using Harely Davidson oil. I think its SAE 20w50. Love this oil. I have had no problems in the feel of the bike and I get it for like 13bucks a gallon. :p

G2Gfast
02-14-2008, 11:06 AM
Amsoil is great. I loved it so much I became a dealer. Good article by the way so far. I didnt get a chance to finish it yet but will.

thanks

Same here. When I put Amsoil in my bike my idol raised by 400rpm. I don't know what was in it B4, but it must have been crap

Racer Dude
02-15-2008, 08:39 PM
Redline motorcycle 10w-40 here yo.

Superior
02-25-2008, 10:05 AM
After reading practically the majority of this whole thread I have come to the conclusion that Mobil 1 is one of the leading brands but there isn't much said about the oil weights. I Just purchased a 1999 Yamaha R1 with approximately 21,000 miles on it and I haven't the foggiest clue what to use. I went to Walmart last night and picked up some Mobil 1 synthetic 15-50 I tired to find some Mobil 1 in 10-40 but unfortunately could not. My question to you guys hopefully without looking like a total idiot is did I pick the right weight or should I return it? Thanks in advance for all your honest replies.

yamahog
02-25-2008, 01:07 PM
I was told Mobil 1 -15w 50...... but I am no expert ... maybe someone else can chime in :dunno

Amsoil Dealer Group
02-25-2008, 01:49 PM
40 is the recommended weight oil... 20W-40, 10W-40.... Same at operating temps

Bob, ADG

Superior
02-25-2008, 06:17 PM
I was told Mobil 1 -15w 50...... but I am not expert ... maybe someone else can chime in :dunno

Is this what you use for all your toys?

299
02-26-2008, 04:57 PM
it seems like the maxima brands are so far the best.

Amsoil Dealer Group
02-26-2008, 05:32 PM
it seems like the maxima brands are so far the best.


You may want to check out the M/C Oil tests in our Sig below (g2156) that was performed by several of the Top Independent Testing Facilities in the US.


ADG

Mossyoak20
02-26-2008, 07:26 PM
anyone ever use Repsol Racing 4T full synthetic?????

299
02-26-2008, 08:55 PM
You may want to check out the M/C Oil tests in our Sig below (g2156) that was performed by several of the Top Independent Testing Facilities in the US.


ADG

i don't think here in SG is tat popular just like Royal Purple products.

Predator04
05-09-2008, 01:45 AM
I use the Castrol R4 superbike stuff, my race bike now has 6500 REALLY HARD miles and runs great.

Amsoil Dealer Group
05-09-2008, 06:31 AM
I use the Castrol R4 superbike stuff, my race bike now has 6500 REALLY HARD miles and runs great.

Ahh yes...... If that is the oil I am thinking of, it is a Bean oil... Gives an alcohol smell from the exhaust.

Use to run it in the late 70's early 80's before I switched to AMSOIL.


Bob S.

.

yankin&bankin
05-09-2008, 08:54 AM
Ahh yes...... If that is the oil I am thinking of, it is a Bean oil... Gives an alcohol smell from the exhaust.

Use to run it in the late 70's early 80's before I switched to AMSOIL.


Bob S.

.

Bob, does Castrol actually still use castor oil in their engine oils???

I'm using the Castrol Actevo motorcycle-specific blend--I'm paying about $15.00 for a 4-liter jug from Cycle Gear.

Amsoil Dealer Group
05-09-2008, 01:33 PM
The Castrol "R" was a Bean oil.... Not sure if it still is... But we used to get checked by Tech at the races all the time for Alky in our fuel because of the exhaust smell. At the time, it was the hot thing especially for Alky and Nitrous engines as it handled fuel and water quite well.

Bob S.

yamahog
05-11-2008, 07:01 AM
Funny, I run the R-50 2 stroke oil, it is a synthetic, but the bottle actually says, "same race odor". Through some research I learned that they actually add an odor to the 2-stroke oil to give it that old school race smell.

GREEK R1DER
08-08-2008, 11:50 AM
Hey guys new to the forum, just picked up my bike bout a month ago and i have put 600 miles on it. I was thinking of using repsol fully synthetic, my friend uses it and he said it runs pretty good, also want to know if i shoud take it to the dealer for that 600 mile check up is it worth or is it a bunch of krap!!

Oil Doc
08-11-2008, 08:42 PM
Hey guys new to the forum, just picked up my bike bout a month ago and i have put 600 miles on it. I was thinking of using repsol fully synthetic, my friend uses it and he said it runs pretty good, also want to know if i shoud take it to the dealer for that 600 mile check up is it worth or is it a bunch of krap!!

AMSOIL MCF if manual calls for any 40 wgt... MCT if it calls for a 30 wgt..

AMSOIL EAOM-103 Filter is the best money can buy..


Doc

saady2s
11-11-2008, 09:53 PM
Where to buy Amsoil for LowLow (for cheap)? Don't wanna spend more than $6 a quart.

Sal_R1
11-11-2008, 10:08 PM
Where to buy Amsoil for LowLow (for cheap)? Don't wanna spend more than $6 a quart.

Not happening!:secret:

yankin&bankin
11-11-2008, 11:08 PM
Where to buy Amsoil for LowLow (for cheap)? Don't wanna spend more than $6 a quart.


LOL!

Funny.

Oil Doc
11-12-2008, 09:09 AM
Where to buy Amsoil for LowLow (for cheap)? Don't wanna spend more than $6 a quart.

ROFLMAO !! IF you are talking MCF MotorCycle Specific 10W-40, Dealer Cost is $7.85 per qt in case quantity, PLUS FREIGHT... EVERYONE pays freight unless you live next door to one of the 13 warehouses..

Not happening!:secret:


Welllllll.. Actually..... If he were to become a Dealer, buy about $8000.00 at one time and be able to pick it up from the warehouse, it would be right about there...

I have been a Dealer for almost 25 years now so if there were a cheaper way to get it without stealing it or being dishonest, I'd do it..

Doc

Oil Doc
11-12-2008, 09:17 AM
OK..... I just looked at his Sig and where he lives.... I could have his oil set up for Pick Up at the warehouse (you can't just walk in off the street and buy) at Dealer Cost if he wants to drive almost 30 miles one way to the warehouse to get it... To me for less than $12.00 to have that Big Brown Truck drop a case on my doorstep, it isn't worth the drive at about 57 cents per mile...

Doc

Sal_R1
11-12-2008, 09:21 PM
ROFLMAO !! IF you are talking MCF MotorCycle Specific 10W-40, Dealer Cost is $7.85 per qt in case quantity, PLUS FREIGHT... EVERYONE pays freight unless you live next door to one of the 13 warehouses..




Welllllll.. Actually..... If he were to become a Dealer, buy about $8000.00 at one time and be able to pick it up from the warehouse, it would be right about there...

I have been a Dealer for almost 25 years now so if there were a cheaper way to get it without stealing it or being dishonest, I'd do it..

Doc

OK..... I just looked at his Sig and where he lives.... I could have his oil set up for Pick Up at the warehouse (you can't just walk in off the street and buy) at Dealer Cost if he wants to drive almost 30 miles one way to the warehouse to get it... To me for less than $12.00 to have that Big Brown Truck drop a case on my doorstep, it isn't worth the drive at about 57 cents per mile...

Doc

:confused:

Like i said!
Not happening!

saady2s
11-12-2008, 09:41 PM
Thanks for the reply guys...lol...Reason why I asked bcz I think I read somewhere regarding AMSOIL going for $6 or some dollars, but now I know. I'm just broke at the moment thts the other reason why i'm desiring to own these products for the cheap ass prices lol. I guess I have to go with cheaper brand oil for now :)

Sal_R1
11-12-2008, 11:14 PM
Thanks for the reply guys...lol...Reason why I asked bcz I think I read somewhere regarding AMSOIL going for $6 or some dollars, but now I know. I'm just broke at the moment thts the other reason why i'm desiring to own these products for the cheap ass prices lol. I guess I have to go with cheaper brand oil for now :)

Its considerably more important to change your oil often that it is to use expensive oil!:fact

Oil Doc
11-13-2008, 05:50 AM
Thanks for the reply guys...lol...Reason why I asked bcz I think I read somewhere regarding AMSOIL going for $6 or some dollars, but now I know. I'm just broke at the moment thts the other reason why i'm desiring to own these products for the cheap ass prices lol. I guess I have to go with cheaper brand oil for now :)

Give me a call if you want... I can get you into an MA Rated oil for about $7.00 per qt but there is still freight and tax unless you drive near the warehouse in your travels, then you can save the freight.. 1-877-356-6099

Its considerably more important to change your oil often that it is to use expensive oil!:fact

Yes, although there is merit to frequent oil changes, use of AMSOIL and the EA Filter costs about the same per mile as a good Petroleum oil, and then you have the other benefits of a Smoother running engine, smoother shifts fewer false neutrals, easier to find neutral, cooler oil temps, less wear and better fuel mileage.

My work van has 345,000 miles on it with only 15 or so oil changes compared to the 100 I would have needed on petroleum.

My Bike.. I am right at 10,000 miles on the current change, which is just since July.

Good results can be had with a good petroleum oil and a good oil filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Synthetic and a Premium Filter.

Doc

saady2s
11-13-2008, 04:39 PM
Thanks for the offer DOC. I was at Pepboys today and got the castrol 4T 10w40 motorcycle oil. 4qts for $14.99 + tax.

$7/qt for AMSOIL is not bad. Ill consider AMS on next oil change.

Thanks for the offer again. :scoots:

Oil Doc
11-13-2008, 04:58 PM
Thanks for the offer DOC. I was at Pepboys today and got the castrol 4T 10w40 motorcycle oil. 4qts for $14.99 + tax.

$7/qt for AMSOIL is not bad. Ill consider AMS on next oil change.

Thanks for the offer again. :scoots:


Quite welcome, remember ... Do Not attempt to extend your oil change interval with the Castrol or any other brand. AMSOIL has been tested in real life to beyond the 2 X recommended drain.

Doc

yamahog
11-14-2008, 07:26 AM
I wonder how the new Yamalube Gold .... synthetic will hold up under independent testing.

Oil Doc
11-14-2008, 08:35 AM
I wonder how the new Yamalube Gold .... synthetic will hold up under independent testing.


First, see if you can find out who makes it, your answer may be in the test reports if it is a Top Ten Manufacturer..

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf

Also, See if you can get a Technical Data Sheet... Doubtful.. Most companies don't want you to know that they are pulling the wool over your eyes..

You use to be able to get a lot of good info off of some MSDS sheets but they got wise to that as those have to be made public..

Let me know if you can come up with the TDS and we can try to de-code it.

Doc

Sal_R1
11-14-2008, 09:12 PM
Give me a call if you want... I can get you into an MA Rated oil for about $7.00 per qt but there is still freight and tax unless you drive near the warehouse in your travels, then you can save the freight.. 1-877-356-6099



Yes, although there is merit to frequent oil changes, use of AMSOIL and the EA Filter costs about the same per mile as a good Petroleum oil, and then you have the other benefits of a Smoother running engine, smoother shifts fewer false neutrals, easier to find neutral, cooler oil temps, less wear and better fuel mileage.

My work van has 345,000 miles on it with only 15 or so oil changes compared to the 100 I would have needed on petroleum.

My Bike.. I am right at 10,000 miles on the current change, which is just since July.

Good results can be had with a good petroleum oil and a good oil filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Synthetic and a Premium Filter.

Doc

How many filter changes in those miles for the bike and truck?

Oil Doc
11-15-2008, 04:58 AM
How many filter changes in those miles for the bike and truck?


On the earlier days of the Van, I changed filters at about 12,000 miles. Once the EA Filters were introduced it went to about 17-18,000 miles.

On the Bike, it is an '07, just over a year old with 24,000 on it.. I don't have my log in front of me so these are round numbers except for the 660 one..

Changed OEM to AMSOIL @ 660 miles. 8500 or so changed oil and filter.. oil was looking a little too dark for me... did Oil Analysis... High Silica (Dirt) Elevated wear metals... Silica gets in through the Air Filter... Piece of junk K&N was pulled and AMSOIL EA Filter installed... AMSOIL and EA Filter installed again. At about 4500, changed again because I was heading to MN, 2500 mile round trip, and Oil Analysis showed that everything was fine.

Current change is right at 10,000 with AMSOIL and EA Filter... will be doing an Oil Analysis on it with change that will be done soon. I am not expecting anything wrong.

Also, My Bike is running a performance exhaust, tuner kit and performance air filter. Bike has been Dyno Tuned for maximum power, not fuel mileage which all add up to more fuel burned and oil contaminated sooner than normal.

Doc

Sal_R1
11-15-2008, 12:24 PM
On the earlier days of the Van, I changed filters at about 12,000 miles. Once the EA Filters were introduced it went to about 17-18,000 miles.

On the Bike, it is an '07, just over a year old with 24,000 on it.. I don't have my log in front of me so these are round numbers except for the 660 one..

Changed OEM to AMSOIL @ 660 miles. 8500 or so changed oil and filter.. oil was looking a little too dark for me... did Oil Analysis... High Silica (Dirt) Elevated wear metals... Silica gets in through the Air Filter... Piece of junk K&N was pulled and AMSOIL EA Filter installed... AMSOIL and EA Filter installed again. At about 4500, changed again because I was heading to MN, 2500 mile round trip, and Oil Analysis showed that everything was fine.

Current change is right at 10,000 with AMSOIL and EA Filter... will be doing an Oil Analysis on it with change that will be done soon. I am not expecting anything wrong.

Also, My Bike is running a performance exhaust, tuner kit and performance air filter. Bike has been Dyno Tuned for maximum power, not fuel mileage which all add up to more fuel burned and oil contaminated sooner than normal.

Doc

How much is the going rate for oil analysis these days?

Oil Doc
11-16-2008, 05:42 AM
How much is the going rate for oil analysis these days?

I use Oil Analyzers Inc. which is an ISO Accredited Lab, just under $23.00 including postage both ways.

Doc

Sal_R1
11-16-2008, 11:35 AM
I use Oil Analyzers Inc. which is an ISO Accredited Lab, just under $23.00 including postage both ways.

Doc

Thank you.

albertg
11-17-2008, 09:41 AM
Hey Gang,

I'm breaking in a new R1. I am currently at 400 miles and want to change oil asap. I want to use regular oil for now, and then switch to synthetic at 3-5k miles.

After reading this thread and the corresponding articles about oils, I'm thinking of changing oil to Rotella 15W 40 (non-synthetic) diesel oil until I'm ready to switch to Rotella 5W 40 synthetic.

Anyone see a problem with the Rotella 15W 40 diesel oil if oil changes are done at 2-3k intervals? From the one article, this premium oil was recommended for it's viscosity stability as it does not have the long chain additives that typically get chewed up by the tranny gears. The author recommended this oil along with 2 other non-synthetic oils. Of course, synthetics are considered better...but that's a few thousand miles away.

Any advice... cautions etc, regarding using Rotella 15W 40 diesel oil for break-in for the R1?? Thanks all....

Oil Doc
11-17-2008, 10:32 AM
Hey Gang,

I'm breaking in a new R1. I am currently at 400 miles and want to change oil asap. I want to use regular oil for now, and then switch to synthetic at 3-5k miles.

After reading this thread and the corresponding articles about oils, I'm thinking of changing oil to Rotella 15W 40 (non-synthetic) diesel oil until I'm ready to switch to Rotella 5W 40 synthetic.

Anyone see a problem with the Rotella 15W 40 diesel oil if oil changes are done at 2-3k intervals? From the one article, this premium oil was recommended for it's viscosity stability as it does not have the long chain additives that typically get chewed up by the tranny gears. The author recommended this oil along with 2 other non-synthetic oils. Of course, synthetics are considered better...but that's a few thousand miles away.

Any advice... cautions etc, regarding using Rotella 15W 40 diesel oil for break-in for the R1?? Thanks all....

If you absolutely stuck on using a petroleum oil, don't know why, use a Premium MotorCycle Specific Oil with a minimum JASO Rating of MA or better yet, MA 2 if you can find it but never MB.

A Premium M/C oil has additive to withstand use in the transmission, anti-wear additives for the trans and will sometimes have ant-rust and corosion inhibitors for bikes that are left to sit a couple weeks at a time.

The OEM Petroleum fill was out of my bike at 660 Miles and have never looked back with 24,000 on the clock now in just over a year.

If 15W-40 diesel oil was the right product for your MotorCycle, Shell would recommend it and bottle it.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine, the Filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

Regardless of Brand, Synthetic or Petroleum, I always recommend a Premium Oil Filter and a M/C Specific oil with a Minimum JASO Rating of MA, better yet, MA 2.

Also, reasonable results can be had by using a good petroleum oil and a good filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Synthetic oil and a Premium Filter.

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf

Doc

yamahog
11-17-2008, 11:32 AM
Ok Doc the dealer had no spec sheet, but this is what I get off of the label:

Yamalube
Performwance Full-Syn
SAE 15W-50
With Ester
MA
M081YMC548
JASO T903:2006

Can you tell me anything based on this info?

albertg
11-17-2008, 11:48 AM
Doc,

Thanks for the feedback. Do you think the petrol oils (Pennzoil, etc) listed in the link you provided are better than the Rotella 15W 40? Per the article, the Rotella had high marks for it's components, and demanding end use (diesels). Again, I was only considering it's use for the remainder of break-in, before the switch to synthetic.

What 'petrol' oil / weight would you recommend to complete break-in....??

Thanks...

albertg
11-17-2008, 03:46 PM
Check this out...from the Shell website Q & A as of Jan '08....looks like both Rotella 15W 40 Triple Protection and Rotella 5W 40 Synthetic are good for motorcycles...

15W 40 - $14/gal - Pep Boys
5W 40 Syn - $19/gal - Pep Boys

From the Shell Forum Q&A:

Do you recommend using ROTELLA in wet clutch applications?

ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3 and GF-4 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle/ATV use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content.

Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus.

One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements. Part of the JASO requirement limits ash content to 1.2%.

Oil ash contributes to combustion chamber and spark plug deposits.

The ash content of CI-4 PLUS spec-ed ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 is 1.47%. However, the CJ-4 spec-ed Shell ROTELLA T with Triple Protection is now at 1.0% ash.

I'm reading that folks are using Rotella in there motorcycles, I have an 05 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Classic and was hoping you could give me your recomendation please.

Here's the scoop on ROTELLA T use in motorcycles.....

Shell ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 and ROTELLA T Synthetic SAE 5W-40 are universal oils, meeting needs of many 4-stroke gasoline as well as most diesel engines. They have performance credentials (API Service Categories SL and CI-4 & CI-4 PLUS) for lubricating both kinds of engines. Consequently, ROTELLA T can be a good choice for four-stroke motorcycle/ATV engines.

It's best to consult your owner's manual for recommended oil quality. If your engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting any of these API Service Categories; CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 & CI-4 PLUS, and/or SH, SJ, and SL, or any earlier but obsolete category, then ROTELLA T may be a good choice.

ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for motorcycle/ATV use. Friction modifiers can upset wet clutch operation. And the ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains, as well as transmissions, need extra (compared to passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive that contains phosphorus.

One negative might be where the engine manufacturer recommends oil meeting JASO requirements. Part of the JASO requirement limits ash content to 1.2%. Ash content of ROTELLA T exceeds this limit. Oil ash contributes to combustion chamber and spark plug deposits.

Oil Doc
11-17-2008, 05:01 PM
Ok Doc the dealer had no spec sheet, but this is what I get off of the label:

Yamalube
Performwance Full-Syn
SAE 15W-50
With Ester
MA
M081YMC548
JASO T903:2006

Can you tell me anything based on this info?


Looking at that, and this is just an educated guess, I would think that it may be a PAO Base of at least 30% because of the Ester. Ester can serve 2 purposes, 1 to act a detergent and also is used in better PAO oils to polarize the oil.. Could be one or both reasons.

Again, just a guess..

Doc

Oil Doc
11-17-2008, 05:04 PM
Doc,

Thanks for the feedback. Do you think the petrol oils (Pennzoil, etc) listed in the link you provided are better than the Rotella 15W 40? Per the article, the Rotella had high marks for it's components, and demanding end use (diesels). Again, I was only considering it's use for the remainder of break-in, before the switch to synthetic.

What 'petrol' oil / weight would you recommend to complete break-in....??

Thanks...

If you are past your 600 mile mark, your so called break-in is complete... You can switch to synthetic... If you want to stay with a petroleum oil, I would probably go with Valvoline M/C oil..

Doc

albertg
11-18-2008, 03:54 PM
Hey Doc/others,

So what do you think about the Rotella 15W 40 Triple Protection (non-Syn) info I posted above? Shell seems to think it's a good choice for bikes. It seems to have all the desirable qualities of a good petrol oil for motorcycles too. I get what your saying about synthetics, but I would really like yours or someone's opinion on this Rotella oil for my R1 -and- Harley.

My Harley ran like $hit on synthetic oil...and lots of riders I know tried it and then returned to regular oil...and I'm not very impressed with Harley's 20W 50 (regular oil) and am looking for a good regular oil alternative. I'll try a good synthetic in my R1 in the near future.

From what I read, diesels are as demanding or more demanding on oil than motorcyles. The necessary components seem to be in this oil making it a good non-syn option for motorcyles.

Doc or anyone?? Please just stick to the specs on this oil in your reply. Comparisons to other oils or touting your favorite blend is not what I'm after....I want opinions on this oil only....and based upon it's components and specs...for motorcyle applications

Thanks again...

yamahog
11-18-2008, 04:56 PM
Hey Doc/others,

So what do you think about the Rotella 15W 40 Triple Protection (non-Syn) info I posted above? Shell seems to think it's a good choice for bikes. It seems to have all the desirable qualities of a good petrol oil for motorcycles too. I get what your saying about synthetics, but I would really like yours or someone's opinion on this Rotella oil for my R1 -and- Harley.

My Harley ran like $hit on synthetic oil...and lots of riders I know tried it and then returned to regular oil...and I'm not very impressed with Harley's 20W 50 (regular oil) and am looking for a good regular oil alternative. I'll try a good synthetic in my R1 in the near future.

From what I read, diesels are as demanding or more demanding on oil than motorcyles. The necessary components seem to be in this oil making it a good non-syn option for motorcyles.

Doc or anyone?? Please just stick to the specs on this oil in your reply. Comparisons to other oils or touting your favorite blend is not what I'm after....I want opinions on this oil only....and based upon it's components and specs...for motorcyle applications

Thanks again...


Perhaps you should either use the "search button" or start your own thread, since you apparently need "specific information" :dunno I am using the YamaLube Synthetic posted above :hammer: :vanish

Oil Doc
11-18-2008, 05:22 PM
Hey Doc/others,

So what do you think about the Rotella 15W 40 Triple Protection (non-Syn) info I posted above? Shell seems to think it's a good choice for bikes. It seems to have all the desirable qualities of a good petrol oil for motorcycles too. I get what your saying about synthetics, but I would really like yours or someone's opinion on this Rotella oil for my R1 -and- Harley.

My Harley ran like $hit on synthetic oil...and lots of riders I know tried it and then returned to regular oil...and I'm not very impressed with Harley's 20W 50 (regular oil) and am looking for a good regular oil alternative. I'll try a good synthetic in my R1 in the near future.

From what I read, diesels are as demanding or more demanding on oil than motorcyles. The necessary components seem to be in this oil making it a good non-syn option for motorcyles.

Doc or anyone?? Please just stick to the specs on this oil in your reply. Comparisons to other oils or touting your favorite blend is not what I'm after....I want opinions on this oil only....and based upon it's components and specs...for motorcyle applications

Thanks again...

I think that Rotella is a fairly decent oil... FOR DIESELS... Diesels are demanding on oils where soot is involved... There is NO Soot created in a Gasoline engine..

You asked for components or Specs...Run a Premium MotorCycle Specific oil with a JASO Rating of MA, better yet MA 2, but never MB in a Wet Clutch... A good Premium M/C oil will have additives specifically for MotorCycles in addition to just meeting a bare minimum Spec.

There IS a Difference between Automotive/Diesel oils and MotorCycle oils... If Anyone tells you different, they have NO IDEA what they are talking about.

I don't know about you... Personally, I have too much money wrapped up in my MotorCycle to buy an oil that meets Minimum Specs.. Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine, and the filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean..

Reasonable results can be had using a Good petroleum oil and a Good filter. Superior results can be had by using a Premium Synthetic Oil and a Premium Filter...

I don't understand what you are saying about how your Harley ran like s**t on Synthetic oil.. Oil has nothing to do with runability. Also, you can not group all Synthetics together any more than you can Petroleum oils, actually less so.

Yes, I know this is more than you wanted.. but then you should have left your post go at your first paragraph then... for sure you know that especially I, could not let the rest go and you directed your post at me.

Doc

Pirita1
11-19-2008, 01:02 PM
I use Oil Analyzers Inc. which is an ISO Accredited Lab, just under $23.00 including postage both ways.

Doc

Interesting!!!!!:fork

AxxMan007
03-23-2009, 11:10 PM
i think thats a gallon i buy my mobil-1 oil at walmart too around 21 bucks a gallon......... i did a lot of reading on oil myself and mobil-1 full syn. looked to me like the best over all and i have been using it i all my stuff for years.....i used to be a fleet manager i had 60 or so work vans that i was responsable and all we used was mobil-1 in them and changed the oil at 25000 miles........we had vans with over 400000 miles on them with 3 or 4 transmission rebuilds and the stock engines still running fine so with that real world testing its clear to me that its a great oil...... and trust me these guys driving my vans beat the hell out of them

steveWFL
03-23-2009, 11:16 PM
man I lubs my MOTUL

javierr1
10-12-2010, 03:17 AM
Well done my man thanks for this article!!!!!

Deals4u04
01-18-2012, 02:37 PM
this might be a silly question, but can you use mobil1 car oil in a motorcycle..Walmart does have awesome deals and just curious.

Amsoil Dealer Group
01-18-2012, 04:50 PM
this might be a silly question, but can you use mobil1 car oil in a motorcycle..Walmart does have awesome deals and just curious.

You can use an Auto/Diesel oil As Long As it has the proper specifications. It must have an API SG or SG/SH Rating. If it has a higher API such as SH, SJ, SL Etc..., it must carry the JASO MA or MA 2 Rating.

Personally, I use Only Motorcycle Specific oil in all my bikes.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isnít cheap
Cheap isnít The Best

Bob

Sharksawyer
01-18-2012, 10:41 PM
this might be a silly question, but can you use mobil1 car oil in a motorcycle..Walmart does have awesome deals and just curious.

I've used Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 which worked just as well the my old stand by Rotella T6.

Mark
99 R1

surfsail50
03-13-2013, 12:11 PM
I making this a 10 year thread!
Just picked up a 2000 R1 with only 3270 miles on it. It sat in this guys garage for years. He bought it new and after about 6 years of riding the gas went bad and stuck the carbs up. The throttle would not turn when I got it.

Anyway it runs prime now and it's ready for it's second oil change (he told me he did the first at 600 miles) I hate even riding it around town with 13+ year old Yamalube in it!

Just picked up 6 quarts of Mobil 1 4T on AMZ for $50 after the rebate. I'll run it with this for a few hundred miles and then change it again just to be sure. Got the K$N oil filter as well for $11.62. It pays to have AMZ Prime for this kind of stuff...

Pirita1
03-13-2013, 01:26 PM
Wow!! ten years...
But oil is the life of our machines, so good advice never gets old...

slowboy101
06-09-2013, 10:30 PM
It comes down to common automotive knowledge all oil is pretty much produced the same exact way it just comes down to which one is actually FULL SYNTHETIC and which ones have the additives that are best compatible with your car/bike

Amsoil Dealer Group
06-11-2013, 12:59 PM
It comes down to common automotive knowledge all oil is pretty much produced the same exact way it just comes down to which one is actually FULL SYNTHETIC and which ones have the additives that are best compatible with your car/bike

So, in your estimation, Group I, II, III, IV, V and VI are all made the same way and the only difference is additives?

I'd like to put a little Money on that.

I will take 100% Synthetic over a FULL Synthetic in most applications.

Bob

XplaneR1
07-21-2013, 02:39 PM
Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella Amsoil Mobile Motul Rotella.... This is Never Ending.


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dancarlos2006
07-29-2013, 01:57 PM
i have a 2013 r1. i put the amsoil in there and it feels really sluggish. from a dig to rolling all around perfromance feels sluggish. I have heard nothing but good things about rotella. any ideas

Sharksawyer
07-29-2013, 09:25 PM
i have a 2013 r1. i put the amsoil in there and it feels really sluggish. from a dig to rolling all around perfromance feels sluggish. I have heard nothing but good things about rotella. any ideas

Rotella T6 and Wix filters. Been running them for years with great results! You can find T6 at Walmart for about $21/Gallon.

Mark

Amsoil Dealer Group
07-30-2013, 08:07 AM
i have a 2013 r1. i put the amsoil in there and it feels really sluggish. from a dig to rolling all around perfromance feels sluggish. I have heard nothing but good things about rotella. any ideas

About the only what your describing could be "felt" in this scenario, is possible is, if you used 20W-50 instead of the recommended 10W-40 or, that you put in more than 4 qts with a filter.

Racer Dude
07-30-2013, 11:12 PM
i have a 2013 r1. i put the amsoil in there and it feels really sluggish.







any ideas?






It is highly, highly unlikely that a quality motor oil of the recommended weight would cause your bike to feel sluggish.

If you put 20W-50 inside your motor, you could very well lose 1-3 hp. A loss of 1-3 hp would not be enough of a loss for you to even notice any difference.

XplaneR1
07-31-2013, 03:04 AM
For 2011 R1 I ordered 1 Gallon Amsoil Full Synthetic 10W 40 and Amsoil filter# EA15K12. Shipping was really fast 2 days to the door.

At first I was skeptical about the performance as I was using Motul 300v 10w 40 with K&N-204, I was thinking of switching to Motul 300v 15w 50 as outside temp was reaching 90 Deg. and felt 10w 40 was not holding up as engine temp was easily spiking up and noisy. I read there will be 1-5 HP Loss if you are running thick oil.

Amsoil Full Synthetic 10W 40 has been performing really well, less engine noise, feels powerful, nice and smooth. Dropped the engine operating temp.

Lets see how it holds up on 90+ Degrees day.

So far so good under 70+ Degrees.



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K R1
02-16-2014, 10:11 PM
Is the 0w-40 a good to run? 2012 r1


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Amsoil Dealer Group
02-17-2014, 06:30 AM
Is the 0w-40 a good to run? 2012 r1


It is only recommended for cold weather riding.

MCF 10W-40 is the recommended oil for an R-1