Well folks, I finally got it in the mail the other day. I have been meaning to install it sooner but work got in the way. In order to accoplish this install you are going to need a volt meter (I have a Fluke 77BN), some tapins, some butt connectors, zipties, velcro, patience, and something to wash your hands with since you may get some chain grease on your hands and arm.
You may also want to get some beer because there is nothing better that working on your bike and drinking a brew :beer
First off is a picture of the unit itself. It comes with the SpeedoHealer unit, the pigtail, 4 zipties, and 4 pieces of shrink wrap.

Here is a close up of the unit

Here is yet another closeup of the unit but this time with a quater to give you a refrence as to its size

Fist thing to do is locate the speed sensor on the R1. To do that you are going to have to lift the tank and look on the right side near the frame. The connector you are looking for has 3 wires, is white in color, and trialgular in shape. The arrow points to it in this picture

Now, diconnect that speed sensor and pull the cable out from behind the engine and towards the left side of the bike. This will give you more room to work on since the Speed Sensor is located on the left side of the engine.

When you buy the unit it does not come with the instructions in the package. You need to go to www.speedohealer.com and download them. I would reccoment printing them so you can refrence them as needed. I went through all the trouble already to save you some time since the instructions are generic. Dont get me wrong, the instructions are really informative but I think that way I am doing it makes it a little easier because we all know how much we love pictures.

Anyhow, first thing is to figure out wich one of the 3 wires that go to the speed sensor is the ground wire. Well, that would be the back one with the white stripe. I used a tapin with a bullet connector like this one.

These things are a piece of cake to use. All you need to do is clamp the black wire in the tapin and crimp the bullet connector to the black wire of the speedo healer pigtail. Then connect the two. It should look like this:

Now for the signal wire. The signal wire is pink in color. Find this wire and cut it in two. Yep... I said cut it :)
Crimp a butt connector to either end of the pink wire

Now you are ready to connect the input (yellow) and output (blue) cables from the SeedoHealer pigtail. The input refers to the signal comming from the speed sensor and output refers to the signal going to the ECU. The spedo healer adjust this signal to correct any spedometer error due to changing sprockets and such.
Connec the yellow wire from the SH pigtail to the pink wire that leads to the speed sensor. Connect the blue one to the pink wire that leads to the connector. Then crimp them in place.

This is a good time to check the continuity of your connections to make sure they were done correctly. Dont forget to check the ground cable too :)

Once you make sure that the connections are good, go ahead and tape that sucker up

Route the bable back the way you got it out and recconect the speed sensor.

If you looked at the instructions, there is a picture that shows a generic picture of the ECU, speed sensor, and the spedo healer showing you where the cables attach. Well, if you have been paying attention so far you may have noticed that we have yet to do anythign with the red cable. The red cable is the power cable for the SH unit. Here is where we run into a little problem. The Yamaha R1 does not use 12VDC for the speed sensor, it used 5VDC so we need to seek an alternate source of power. But that is ok though. I have a nice and convinient spot to get the 12V's from.
Wat I did was route the SH pigtail along the right side of the bike, up the subframe so I can mount the SH at the very back end of the trunk. Well, at the part that the pigtail is near the battery I cut a little piece of the sheeth that surrounds the pigtail cables and pulled the red wire through it. I used another tapin and this time I tapped into the blue wire with greed dots that is on the left side of the battery tray. This is the same wire that powers the licence plate light (wich I dont use). You can use virtually any 12V supply that you can find but I would choose one that is switched (turns off when the key is off) and I caution you on using the positive terminal of the battery. Better yet, dont think of using the battery, no matter how tempting it is

Here is how I routed the pigtail. Looks amost like the trunk release cable :)

And finally, the moment we have all bee waiting for. Here is where I mouted the unit.

It is kinda a pain in the ass to get to the SH unit where I put it with the tail section back on but the way I see it, once I have it set up I wont need to mess with it much.
Here are some usefull links:
www.speedohealer.com
Installation manual (http://www.speedohealer.com/download/SH_Bike_Installation_eng.pdf)
User's Manual (http://www.speedohealer.com/download/SH_Manual_eng.pdf)

A big thank you goes out to Norbert from speedohealer.com for answeing all my question. I swear he is on his compuer almost as long as I am :lol
Hit him up if you want to get your hands on one of these puppies

Thanks Norbert :thumbup

Thanks for the info....... of course it just re-affirms my decision on which speedo calibrator to use, as the install was an inline connector under the tank and 1 12v switched splice.

I used radar to calibrate mine, I figured good enough for the cops, good enough for me!

Give us an update when you're finished....:rock

great pics shadow! one thing I've gotta ask and it might have already been answered. A SH? is that to give your true speed on your speedo when you gain a tooth or 2 in back? or is it one of those cpu distorters' that throw off the rpm gadge so you can acquire more top end?

Originally posted by ImagineParadise
great pics shadow! one thing I've gotta ask and it might have already been answered. A SH? is that to give your true speed on your speedo when you gain a tooth or 2 in back? or is it one of those cpu distorters' that throw off the rpm gadge so you can acquire more top end?


It modifies the output of the Hall-Effect sensor for the speedo. That way you can adjust it for accuracy.

Or not if you have a ZX-12R. A quick and easy way to get around the 186mph limit on the 12R is to make the speedo read low for the actual speed. :fact

Originally posted by ImagineParadise
great pics shadow! one thing I've gotta ask and it might have already been answered. A SH? is that to give your true speed on your speedo when you gain a tooth or 2 in back? or is it one of those cpu distorters' that throw off the rpm gadge so you can acquire more top end? RUFFSTUFF pretty much covered it but I will put it in my own terms.
What the SpeedHealer does is take an input from your speed sensor. Let say this input corresponds to a speed of 100 MPH. Now, let also assume that you went out and compared yoru speedo to a GPS or any of the other methods to check to see how far off your speedo is and you come up with a correction of 10%. The SH, inturn, adjusts the signal to the ECU by the correction factor which will then be shown on the Spedometer
http://www.speedohealer.com/images/sh_schema.gif

The SpeedoHealer is very accurate (.05%) but the real test will be how accurate will your measurements be :music487

This unit can also hel out any friends you may have with Hayabusas that have changes their spedo face plate to the one that goes up to 220mph :)
Oh, and like RUFFSTUFF said, you can make it read much lower on purpose to "bypass" top end limiters too :)

Originally posted by Shadow One
This unit can also hel out any friends you may have with Hayabusas that have changes their spedo face plate to the one that goes up to 220mph :)
Oh, and like RUFFSTUFF said, you can make it read much lower on purpose to "bypass" top end limiters too :)



FYI, that trick doesn't work on the Hayabusa, for that you would need a TRE, but they are cheap....:p

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
FYI, that trick doesn't work on the Hayabusa, for that you would need a TRE, but they are cheap....:p Yeah yeah.. true dat but you need the TRE that fools the bike into thinking it is in 5th gear ;)

Originally posted by Shadow One
Yeah yeah.. true dat but you need the TRE that fools the bike into thinking it is in 5th gear ;)


Okay I already said the 'Busa needs a TRE. I know there's a permanent and a switchable model, is there another kind?













Or are you just being an E7 and stating the obvious?;)

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Okay I already said the 'Busa needs a TRE. I know there's a permanent and a switchable model, is there another kind? Well, you do know that it depends on the resistor value that you use. One corresponds to 5th and there is another one for 6th :butt

Originally posted by Shadow One
Well, you do know that it depends on the resistor value that you use. One corresponds to 5th and there is another one for 6th :butt



Wouldn't one for 6th totally defeat the purpose of the TRE in the first place? :butt

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Wouldn't one for 6th totally defeat the purpose of the TRE in the first place? :butt Not at all. The purpose of the TRE is to prevent the ECU from retarding the timming during the first 3 gears. In theory you can use a resistor to simulate 4,5,or 6th gear :owwn3d

Besides, this thread is about the spedo healer and not the TRE :p

Originally posted by Shadow One
Besides, this thread is about the spedo healer and not the TRE :p


:butt

I'm looking into getting a speedo fix myself. I think this is a good write up but what about Jim Ahlman's unit that's plug and play. I didn't go to the link to see what the SH runs but Jim's unit is $90 shipped. Just another alternative.

Thank!
Brian

Originally posted by BrianC
I'm looking into getting a speedo fix myself. I think this is a good write up but what about Jim Ahlman's unit that's plug and play. I didn't go to the link to see what the SH runs but Jim's unit is $90 shipped. Just another alternative.

Thank!
Brian


What do you want to know about Ahlman's setup?

I have 1 from Jim A. Thing is a direct plug-in you can up or down.He will set it up for what your application(base) is i.e. -1 on the front. :)

Originally posted by KNEEDY R1
I have 1 from Jim A. Thing is a direct plug-in you can up or down.He will set it up for what your application(base) is i.e. -1 on the front. :)


Or you can take 20sec, look at the chart, and flip the 9 DIP switches accordingly.:crash

Of course, I'm not so sure how he's gonna know how far off your speedo is from actual speed. Anyone can do the math for gearing changes, but there are other factors.:fact

Originally posted by BrianC
I'm looking into getting a speedo fix myself. I think this is a good write up but what about Jim Ahlman's unit that's plug and play. I didn't go to the link to see what the SH runs but Jim's unit is $90 shipped. Just another alternative.


Well, I bought 2 units for $119 shipped. That is $59.5 for one.

Jim's unit is not pnp either coz there's no +12V in the sensor plug.
However, you need to work with only one wire instead of four, which makes it easier to install.

On the other hand I can change the settings for the SH in a few seconds. It takes longer for Jim's unit coz you need to unscrew the box to access the switches.
Consider this, because you need to install the unit once but you may need to change the settings several times.

The on-line calculator for the SH is quite handy too:
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/adjust.htm
I bet it already saved me more time than I spent with the installation! :lol

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Or you can take 20sec, look at the chart, and flip the 9 DIP switches accordingly.:crash

Of course, I'm not so sure how he's gonna know how far off your speedo is from actual speed. Anyone can do the math for gearing changes, but there are other factors.:fact

I was trying to show customer service and he was try to get his customers in the BALLPARK. :) :thumbup

Originally posted by KNEEDY R1
I was trying to show customer service and he was try to get his customers in the BALLPARK. :) :thumbup

:thumbup

Originally posted by tilusr1
Well, I bought 2 units for $119 shipped. That is $59.5 for one.

Jim's unit is not pnp either coz there's no +12V in the sensor plug.
However, you need to work with only one wire instead of four, which makes it easier to install.

On the other hand I can change the settings for the SH in a few seconds. It takes longer for Jim's unit coz you need to unscrew the box to access the switches.
Consider this, because you need to install the unit once but you may need to change the settings several times.

The on-line calculator for the SH is quite handy too:
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/adjust.htm
I bet it already saved me more time than I spent with the installation! :lol

1. set it and forget it, change it when you change sprocket gearing... tire wear? insignificant

2. 1 12v tap and 0 splicing. close enuff

3. just do it

Shadow R One,

I just wanted to say a HUGE thank you for you posting this "how-to" link!!!! :rock :thumbup :D :boobies

I just got a SpeedoHealer off my friend that was selling his bike and it was pretty darn easy to install it. Just got finished and now I'm going to test and program it.

However, I think your indepth coverage of how to install it made it 10 times easier than if I would have just gone off the instructions alone. Also I appreciate the tip of going with a "switched" power wire and went to the same one you did.

Thanks again and it was MUCH appreciated!

If I have any problems after programming, I'll be sure to ask. Hehehe..

Just out of curiosity, how did you calculate how far "off" your speedo was?

I drove exactly 11 miles (I tried for 10, but there was no "landmark" to measure against) in my truck. Then I went and rode the exact same distance with the bike and it was 11.9 miles, which ends up being 8.18% fast (if you divide 11.9 by 11.0) . Should I just go with that number and then try the same distance/markers again to see if my bike now reads 11.0 miles?

I wish there was a way to find out where those little radar machines are at on the side of the road because I would just cruise past one of those a couple of times to get a good average of how far I'm off.

Anyway, thanks again! :thumbup :bow

get a gps

Hehehe..ya, of course that's the easier way, but i'm not going to go out and spend $200.00 just to test out my distance. LOL

A GPS doesn't do speed, does it? It only does distance, correct?

Plus, where would you mount it so that you could read it when you need to check the distance? Because wouldn't you need to "reset" the GPS to zero once you found a straight line section you wanted to do your testing on?

Just curious. :) But I appreciate the tip.

Originally posted by R1_Demon
.....
Just out of curiosity, how did you calculate how far "off" your speedo was?

I drove exactly 11 miles.....


There is a significant factory speedo error (vs. factory odo error) therefore you can't really use the distance method to calibrate the SH for accurate speedo readings.

The easiest way to setup the device is to use the on-line calculator:
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/adjust.htm

Select the "Estimated" method, enter your sprocket changes etc, press "Calculate" and then "Generate".

The whole setup procedure can be done in 2 mins.


To get the most out of the device you need a good speed reference (radar, gps, dyno or other calibrated vehicle). Then use the "Precise" method of the above calculator.

It works very well for me! :thumbup

I think (if I remember correctly) that they show a 5.5% speedo error as a general rule of thumb...

So, I should just go with that until I can use my bike against a radar gun or GPS? I just figured that adding 5.5% on top of the 6.2% of just the sprocket change would be a huge change and too much. Plus, does that account going from a 190 rear to a 180 rear? I don't know if there is much of a difference, but ya know.

I know the best way is with the radar and maybe the GPS.

However, I do have a question that someone brought up to me this weekend about the GPS. Will it still calculate correctly if you're on a curvy road? How abotu going up and down mountains? Doesn't GPS do distance "as the crow flies", meaning line of sight and not necessarily up and down mountains and around curves and such? Seems like the only way it would be accurate is if you found a straight piece of freeway that didn't really have much elevation changes in it.

Just wondering... :)

The 5.5% is a good default value for factory speedo error, don't worry.
E.g. a hayabusa has 7% stock error and the ZX12R has even more.

But you can easily calculate this yourself for your bike!
See FAQ #11 and #12 on this page:
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/faq.htm

If you don't use stock tires then it's a bit complicated. New tires even in the same size and profile might differ in diameter a few percent due to the different thread depth.

As said, set your SH according to the calculator's instructions and you'll be ok in 2 mins.
If you want 100% accuracy then you *need* a good speed reference to compare your indicated speed with.


The GPS is able to show an accurate velocity as long as signal reception is good and you're going at steady speed in straight line for several seconds.

Also, the GPS can tell you what's the exact distance between A and B points in a straight line, or on a map between waypoints.
But it can NOT function as an accurate tripmeter on a bike due to many reasons.

What else do you want to know? :epimp :)

Originally posted by tilusr1
The 5.5% is a good default value for factory speedo error, don't worry.
E.g. a hayabusa has 7% stock error and the ZX12R has even more.

But you can easily calculate this yourself for your bike!
See FAQ #11 and #12 on this page:
http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/faq.htm

If you don't use stock tires then it's a bit complicated. New tires even in the same size and profile might differ in diameter a few percent due to the different thread depth.

As said, set your SH according to the calculator's instructions and you'll be ok in 2 mins.
If you want 100% accuracy then you *need* a good speed reference to compare your indicated speed with.


The GPS is able to show an accurate velocity as long as signal reception is good and you're going at steady speed in straight line for several seconds.

Also, the GPS can tell you what's the exact distance between A and B points in a straight line, or on a map between waypoints.
But it can NOT function as an accurate tripmeter on a bike due to many reasons.

What else do you want to know? :epimp :)




I still say radar is the best.... works for me like a champ...

Cool..thanks for the info. :)

I actually didn't know GPS would show speed (as long as it is straight and steady). Pretty cool to know.

My speedo doesn't have to be "dead on balls accurate", but as long as it's closer than it is now. LOL

I'll probably just use their general 5.5% and the 6.2% for the gearing change and go from there. It's not like if I set up the SH that it's set in stone and I can never change it. that's what's cool about it. If it seems high after that, I just reconfigure. :) :thumbup

Thanks man! :thumbup

I'd agree with you RUff, but it's not easy just to find radar sitting around somewhere and if you think I'm going to pull up to a CHP officer and ask him to shoot me with radar as I go by 3 times or so (for an average) you're insane. LOL!!!! :p

Originally posted by R1_Demon
I'd agree with you RUff, but it's not easy just to find radar sitting around somewhere and if you think I'm going to pull up to a CHP officer and ask him to shoot me with radar as I go by 3 times or so (for an average) you're insane. LOL!!!! :p

No, you don't need to ask at all. They will do it, but then its gonna cost you.. :dollar :lol

Originally posted by R1_Demon
I'll probably just use their general 5.5% and the 6.2% for the gearing change and go from there. It's not like if I set up the SH that it's set in stone and I can never change it. that's what's cool about it. If it seems high after that, I just reconfigure. :) :thumbup

Yep, you got it! :thumbup
Im glad I could help a little.. :riding

yaaaa, somehow I don't think I want to pay for that. A dyno run would be much cheaper. LOL :yesnod :lol

Well, I set it at 11.7% per the setup on SH's site. I only got to take it for a short ride today, so I'm not quite sure. Mainly I'll be able to tell a little better tomorrow on the freeway going up to work be judging going with the cars compared to what I was running prior to the SH changes. :)

Thanks again.

Originally posted by R1_Demon
I'd agree with you RUff, but it's not easy just to find radar sitting around somewhere and if you think I'm going to pull up to a CHP officer and ask him to shoot me with radar as I go by 3 times or so (for an average) you're insane. LOL!!!! :p


Well duh! Of course I'm insane......:crash




I guess I am lucky, because we have those radar stands on the side of the road in quite a few places. I like to go by the one at a local airport... of course they always seem to put those things in the 35mph zones, and well, at 35, I just can't get accurate data. It's much better around 80-85....


I would not recommend going this fast though..

:eek:

good tech shadow. i just put mine on. it took a little while to set the speed but i think i got it pretty close.

I hate to bring back a old thread.:p This write up is excellent.:thumbup I just bought a speedo healer for my R6 and I am pretty sure the install will be very similar to the R1. I don't know anything about electrical. Can I splice into my license plate light power wire if I still use the light? It sounds like the easiest way, but I don't know if i'll be getting enough power if I run both the healer and light off one wire. Sorry if it's a stupid question.

Sure! There should be no problem what so ever in using that wire even if the plate light is in use...
The only real diffrences between an R6 and R1 (and any other bike really) is the color of the wires, the location of the speed sensor, and the voltage used by the sensor.
I know that the GSX line of bikes have 12VDC going to the speed sensor and that the R1 uses 5VDC. Odds are that the R6 also uses 5VDC but I am not 100% sure of that.

thanks... yes I hear the R6 is also 5v.

subscribing

subscribing
Wow... talk about bringing up an old thread :)

i bought a device called the yellow box a couple of years back that i fitted to my 1, this product you talk of here sounds like the same thing? also my gps does have a speedometer on it that tells the speed. the instructions with my garmin nuvi 300 do say speed readings are not accurate on hills but it says nothing about curves, incidently i often use my gps to measure cable distances under the ground so we now where to dig up the road, as a guide of course. and it nearly always it matches exactly the distance the same as a walking wheel.

people are still using it though shadow

Question for you folks, as I'm sure someones got this set up. I have had my datatool gear indicator for awhile and recently added a plug and play speedohealer, my datatool is acting up now, is there a sequence these items need to be wired in?

Nope, but you have to reprogram your gear indicator... it uses speed and rpm to determine the gear you are in.

:fact

Thanks.

Wow... talk about bringing up an old thread :)

This thread rocks, man! :thumbup
It helped me a lot in installing and calibrating my R1's SpeedoHealer...:riding

Thanks.

Thanks for the write up. I ended up lucky enough to have a Yamaha harness with my order, so I just had to unconnect and replug.

There is a how to on the Speedohealer site as well that helped. As I am the self-proclaimed King of the 95% complete job, I still have to tap the power wire, and set the SH for my gear changes.

My question is, if I cut the wire mentioned in this how to - right before the plug, can I just use a butt connector and splice right into my power wire, or should I figure a way to connect and let it continue into the plug, can i even do that.

Dude, look at the speedohealer website for your specific bike. It even tells you exactly what wire to splice into. They use one of those tap connectors. I soldered my wires together and wrapped them. Calibrating the thing is also very easy. Just look at the online calculator on their site and it walks you step by step.

Ya, I actually found the website a little more user friendly than the write up here. I found those connectors he speaks of at wal mart.

After my install and using the calibrator on the website, I think I'm running perfect, maybe even reading a lil low. I paced a stock bike, which i'm assuming is about 5% off from factory, and I was a solid 4-5 mph lower in the mid 40s and 50s.

overall, great product, relatively simple install.