ok.. what i want to buy is one of those oil drain plugs.. you know the quick connect ones that flow into a tube.. so there is no mess.. i am always afraid i am going to strip the head on the drain plug myself.. i hear the whole setup is like $30 dollars or so... anybody know where i could purchase one.. i seen some posts awhile back from alot of members who use this.. anybody please let me know.. thanx..

IXI

That sounds like a great idea, is it like quick connect air hose fittings? Or possibly like the new quick disconnect brake line fitting?

Like to see a pic & possibly a link :thumbup

Especially after seeing Berts ordeal with his drain plug :scared

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=QC

Been enjoying mine for over 3 years now :)

http://hometown.aol.com/qckchanger

Exactly where I"ve bought mine.

yes.. thats it... how much is it exactly.. is it 34.95?


IXI

Walmart sells these.... from FRAM (http://www.autobarn.net/frasdseries.html)

about $20 difference if it works?!?!?!?

the wal mart deal looks great. anyone one know if the threads will fit the r1 and r6?

yeah.. that is a great deal and cheap... i would bet one could be matched up.. i imagine it would have to be from an import vehicle..

IXI

Originally posted by martinc
http://hometown.aol.com/qckchanger

Exactly where I"ve bought mine.

Ok so now you have me interested, which size fits the R1

14mmx1.5

The walmart deal,well,dont offer sizes.......only codes.

Originally posted by martinc
14mmx1.5

The walmart deal,well,dont offer sizes.......only codes.

hmmm.. that could be a problem.. i bet somewhere on the internet we could find a cross reference for the size you
specified...

IXI

Part # 2036 is the Fram part that should fit, 14mm x 1.5mm

Sale price $13.95


http://order.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/wg-order?unique=472dd&catalog=rodi&et=3fe479e5&basket=5Ccee188d800c6c43fe472dd6989b80e188d88ef2db 0c4062ab059164d78811ff

Eyespy, how did you get that part#? I couldn't find a cross reference anywhere. I am not doubting you, just curious.

I looked on the application chart.

http://www.autobarn.com/applications/fram/SureDrainGuide.pdf

Sorry, couldn't find it.:2bitchsla

i see.. its at the bottom of every page.. wow.. i didnt see it there before.. leave it to eyespy to save the day..lol

IXI

the fram one , has a knurled cap, where the other brand apears to have a hex cap for a wrench , I would think the hex cap would be a bit better IMO.

Agreed. But is it worth $20 more? It is just a dust cap. My big question would be what is it made of? It looks like brass, and that could be a dis-similar metal problem with aluminum. I know in aluminum scuba cylinders that use the heavy chrome plated brass valves it's a big problem. Once the chrome plating wears away on the threads of the valve, the brass eats away at the aluminum big time. They might be fine for a car with a steel oil pan, but I don't know about threading that baby into aluminum. I think I'll stick with my trusty drain plug, and get a little oil on my hands once in a while.

You can use blue loktite or even teflon tape if you are concerned about this.....

Thanks Martin!

Anyone had trouble with these releasing oil when you don't want them to?

i just got back from walmart... i bought the fram one.. it was $12.95.... they are there in the thread size so i just bought the one he said... now i get to sit here and look at it for a few months while the the snow still covers the ground.. i will be adding mine the next oil change.. when it gets warm out..

IXI

Originally posted by yonkabluna
Anyone had trouble with these releasing oil when you don't want them to?
i put these on my trucks when they came out, not one problem.
they are the only fram part id ever put on my vehicles. now i have to get one for the bike. it sure beats a hand full of hot oil.

silver03r-1

No problems here.......at fist I was concerned about the cap unscrewing itself(there is no real way to tighten very much)but since it has an o-ring in it,no problems.

Just dont over-torque them!

We had a thread recently on the quick drain oil plugs from Fram, I went and picked one up today and cause I had to change the oil in the bike for winterization anyway, the thread size is fine but on my 02 there is a "gaurd" (a little lip) in front of the oil drain plug which prevented me from getting a socket on the drain fitting because the socket is too thick and a wrench wont fit, so I just re-installed my stock plug, just wanted to give everyone the heads up, and if anyone has got one on their bike please let us know. Later fellas

-Joe

Joe, I had a similar problem with a regular access bolt on my 95 CBR1000. I bought another socket (so as not to wreck the set) and ground the OD down for the first 1/2" in order to clear the "guard lip".

Just an idea :hellobye

Use a open end wrench
This is how I did it on my 99 and the 02
I did not think the Fram was a very good quality so I went with another compzny called the Plug
No Butt Plug jokes please



Ken

Ah ha, :2bitchsla shoulda thought of that, I'm gonna give that a shot bro, thanks for the suggestion:rock

-Joe

My bad I type slow, the 1st reply was for you JDYZF, Hey NY, does the one you have now seal when you have a pan full of oil, the fram one I had leaked oil when I filled it and I checked to see if It was hung up on anything but it wasnt, the brass cap is the only thing that is a complete seal?? I dont really trust that too much. Thanks bro

-Joe

I should have told you guys that in order to install those,you"ll have to mod a socket for it....sorry...been a long time.

It shouldnt leak;take it off and inspect.

Hope someone can help anybody know where I can get the drain plug in the UK

Originally posted by JimmyD
Agreed. But is it worth $20 more? It is just a dust cap. My big question would be what is it made of? It looks like brass, and that could be a dis-similar metal problem with aluminum. I know in aluminum scuba cylinders that use the heavy chrome plated brass valves it's a big problem. Once the chrome plating wears away on the threads of the valve, the brass eats away at the aluminum big time. They might be fine for a car with a steel oil pan, but I don't know about threading that baby into aluminum. I think I'll stick with my trusty drain plug, and get a little oil on my hands once in a while. Martinc what Jimmyd is talking about here how will the brass not eat through the teflon tape seeing that it eats through the chrome on the scuba gear. My oil is coming up for changing on my 05 R1 and I use these on my vehicles and I think that this is the way to go for a bike. Could you elaborate on the teflon tape keeping the brass from eating away the aluminum. I do not want to have problems down the road. Thanks Martinc.:rock

I"ve been using mine since early 2000 without any hint of that metal eating theory.

Go get it.

fram part # is SD-2

Originally posted by martinc
I"ve been using mine since early 2000 without any hint of that metal eating theory.

Go get it.

:iamwithst been using mine for 3 seasons and zero issues :thumbup

i bought the fram one.. i forget exactly why i didnt use it.. something about the bottom of the oooh yeah.. the sockets are all too big to but it on with that thing on the bottom of the oil pan.. how did you guys get around that without grinding it off? i didnt want to do that...

i really would like to use this since i bought it a year ago and its sitting on the shelf...

IXI

I did grind the socket to fit.

Hey MartinC the place where you bought yours I contacted them and they told me that theirs was made out of brass. I am going to the auto parts store (Oreilly) and pick me up one. A couple of questions do you use the same torque specifications as the original drain plug and do you have to modify a socket for the 05 R1 if thats the case I am going to get a crapman to modify not going to grind up my Snap On sockets. Thanks MartinC

Originally posted by martinc
I did grind the socket to fit.

thats a good idea.. never thought about thinning down the socket with a gringer....

i will have to look into it..

how thin did you have to make it? you have any pics?

thanx..

IXI

Same torque;

I dont have a pic of it (cant even find it!) but who cares,this was,after all,the last time I had to remove/screw back something in there :)

Thanks MartinC!

:p

ancient thread bump.

anybody else using something like this?

i'd love to find one in m14 SO!! :dundun:

I've been looking no luck for me. Might not be looking in the right places.

i started a thread about something like this a couple weeks ago. a drain bolt with a spout in it so you didnt have to remove the bolt. it was a pop up ad at the top of the forum...ill look at my old post and see if I can find the name of it

its called QuikValve
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328343

No dice there for an SO :/

Mine is like 10 yrs old and still virgin tight :)

No dice there for an SO :/

for an SO? not sure what that means

for an SO? not sure what that means

single oversize. as in, a monkey stripped it once and it's been redone

single oversize. as in, a monkey stripped it once and it's been redone

they have different sizes. If i remember the stock size is 14mm. they make a 14.5mm that could work. what size drain bolt are you using now?

they have different sizes. If i remember the stock size is 14mm. they make a 14.5mm that could work. what size drain bolt are you using now?

it just says 14/15 SO.

have to finger it out with trial and error i guess.

if i can get the quick drain in there (even if it won't come back out :sneaky )

i won't need to worry about toasting the pan. :crash

it just says 14/15 SO.

have to finger it out with trial and error i guess.

if i can get the quick drain in there (even if it won't come back out :sneaky )

i won't need to worry about toasting the pan. :crash

take it to a hardware shop or an auto shop or get a digital caliper and you can measure the bolt and threads..then search or email the company to see if they got something that would fit the threads and size bolt

take it to a hardware shop or an auto shop or get a digital caliper and you can measure the bolt and threads..then search or email the company to see if they got something that would fit the threads and size bolt

pretty much :fork

Can you drill it (15mm bit) and tap it for an M16-1.5?

Can you drill it (15mm bit) and tap it for an M16-1.5?

i suppose i could just go the straightforward route. :hammer:

i'll try one more thing tomorrow and see if it works first

Mine is like 10 yrs old and still virgin tight :)

:eek:

Martin's alive! Been a long time. :hellobye

Mine is like 10 yrs old and still virgin tight :)

:stpd: the master enlightened me, I have the same ageless version as Martin, still works flawlessly, unfortunately CycleGadgets no longer sells them :no

Roc, excuse my ignorance because I'm just jumping in one this, but I take it you stripped your sump bolt, and it's been taken out a size?

It's a common-ish problem I see on Yam's.

What I do is put a Timesert in, a solid threaded insert. Once that's bonded I take a Dremel and put a notch down one side so oil can still drain out all the way to the bottom of the sump, then it's fine to use with a standard sump bolt or whatever gadget like that quickvalve you want to put in.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/oil-coolers-accessories/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve

you can also get em from here guys

Nice!

Didn't know something like this was available, a must have.:thumbup

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/oil-coolers-accessories/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve

you can also get em from here guys

nice but not $60 nice :lol

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/oil-coolers-accessories/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve

you can also get em from here guys

Nice find, What size is it, pretty surre its 14 but which one?

M 12 x 1.25
M 12 x 1.5
M 14 x 1.25
M 14 x 1.5
M 16 x 1.5
M 18 x 1.5
M 20 x 1.5
M 22 x 1.5

M 14 x 1.5

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/oil-coolers-accessories/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve

you can also get em from here guys

Thanks :thumbup

Roc, excuse my ignorance because I'm just jumping in one this, but I take it you stripped your sump bolt, and it's been taken out a size?

It's a common-ish problem I see on Yam's.

What I do is put a Timesert in, a solid threaded insert. Once that's bonded I take a Dremel and put a notch down one side so oil can still drain out all the way to the bottom of the sump, then it's fine to use with a standard sump bolt or whatever gadget like that quickvalve you want to put in.

Your ignorance? Good one :lol

Thanks for the idea!

Finally got a great result with some goofy piece from my local parts store. It's a flat copper washer with rubber inner ring.

I won't count on it working long-term. Will likely bite the bullet and go new-new everything next oil change, including whatever piece meets Ian's standard.

I can make one of these for under 8$ at my shop. Never thought about it tho!

M 14 x 1.5

Thanks :bow

Ill pick one up in the new year.

I can make one of these for under 8$ at my shop. Never thought about it tho!

would you sell me one? liking this idea too.

GROUP BUY!!!!

Gearheaded is making Titanium Quick Drain Valves for ALL MODELS of R1's, R6's, FZ1's, FZ6's, Gixxers, Ninjas, CBR's etc.... and selling them for $8.00. Needs 50 people to order by 12/31/2011 and he'll ship them out by middle of January. Sign up in this thread!!

1. blur1
2.




















:lol :hammer: :crash

Hahaha! Kirk at his best...

I have my moments.... :epimp

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151479 a vendor over on the r6 side is selling these. Might be worth a pm to find out a price

Thanks :thumbup

glad I could help

GROUP BUY!!!!

Gearheaded is making Titanium Quick Drain Valves for ALL MODELS of R1's, R6's, FZ1's, FZ6's, Gixxers, Ninjas, CBR's etc.... and selling them for $8.00. Needs 50 people to order by 12/31/2011 and he'll ship them out by middle of January. Sign up in this thread!!

1. blur1
2. rorlow



I'll take one, added my name to the list :jump

Me to please guys

My question is if you don't actually remove the plug to drain oil, then wouldn't there be build up of junk oil or sludge on the bottom of the pan? Because the internal threading of these special valves are sitting higher than the lowest point of the pan.

I think I will stick to occasional oil on the pipes and hands. Unless someone can show me a cross section of the oil pan and where these drain device thread sits.


P

My question is if you don't actually remove the plug to drain oil, then wouldn't there be build up of junk oil or sludge on the bottom of the pan? Because the internal threading of these special valves are sitting higher than the lowest point of the pan.

I think I will stick to occasional oil on the pipes and hands. Unless someone can show me a cross section of the oil pan and where these drain device thread sits.


Phttp://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves

I want these too! http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/description

My question is if you don't actually remove the plug to drain oil, then wouldn't there be build up of junk oil or sludge on the bottom of the pan? Because the internal threading of these special valves are sitting higher than the lowest point of the pan.

I think I will stick to occasional oil on the pipes and hands. Unless someone can show me a cross section of the oil pan and where these drain device thread sits.


P

That's very true. The sumps on Yamahas, and most bikes have a an internal thread that is notched most of the way down in one place. That's to let oil drain as low as the floor of the sump. Putting a device like this in will block that notch. I can show you a pic of a sump thread if you don't understand.

That's why I wrote I notch the Timesert's I put in them to repair them.

That's very true. The sumps on Yamahas, and most bikes have a an internal thread that is notched most of the way down in one place. That's to let oil drain as low as the floor of the sump. Putting a device like this in will block that notch. I can show you a pic of a sump thread if you don't understand.

That's why I wrote I notch the Timesert's I put in them to repair them.

If it fits like it is shown in the post I put up it will not block anything!http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves

If it fits like it is shown in the post I put up it will not block anything!http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves

It doesn't though, the thread on our sumps are internal. Hang on, I'll get you a pic of a spare sump I have here.

The picture in your post shows an external thread lug, below the floor of the pan, ours is above, hence the notch.

2 mins...

Here ya go:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/ce1b7633.jpg

As you can see, even ou sump doesn't have the drain at the very lowest point, but once you add a device like the one you're talking about, that just raises the lowest drain point even further. Quite a bit actually when you look at the whole sump floor. I'd say you'll be leaving half a pint in there minimum.

As crazy as this sounds, I do all my oil changes on my bike by removing the sump, cleaning it and the oil pickup strainer but then it's my job...

It doesn't though, the thread on our sumps are internal. Hang on, I'll get you a pic of a spare sump I have here.

The picture in your post shows an external thread lug, below the floor of the pan, ours is above, hence the notch.

2 mins...

I here what your saying! if that is so should be able to drill holes in the valve to accommdate the groves in the bung. Thanks for picture!

Here ya go:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/ce1b7633.jpg

As you can see, even ou sump doesn't have the drain at the very lowest point, but once you add a device like the one you're talking about, that just raises the lowest drain point even further. Quite a bit actually when you look at the whole sump floor. I'd say you'll be leaving half a pint in there minimum.

As crazy as this sounds, I do all my oil changes on my bike by removing the sump, cleaning it and the oil pickup strainer but then it's my job...

Thank u for the pix. This help me confirm my assumption.

But man removing the pan/sump every oil change........ Good job!

I usually just waste half pint of fresh oil hoping to flush the old stuff out. But after actually seeing the inside I may need a pint or two.

P

Yep I'm very fussy about my engine and I've worked on too many bikes now to see the damage caused by oil problems.

I can have the sump off in about 8-10 mins extra work so for me, it's just routine now.

Yep I'm very fussy about my engine and I've worked on too many bikes now to see the damage caused by oil problems.

I can have the sump off in about 8-10 mins extra work so for me, it's just routine now.

Man that IS! a stupid design for a drain! what was Yamaha thinking on that?

Man that IS! a stupid design for a drain! what was Yamaha thinking on that?

Exactly, that's why I put a little extra work in and make sure I get as much oil oil out, and as much fresh in. Cleaning the oil pickup strainer is a bonus and I get to check all is well that extra step in my engine doing that.

Exactly, that's why I put a little extra work in and make sure I get as much oil oil out, and as much fresh in. Cleaning the oil pickup strainer is a bonus and I get to check all is well that extra step in my engine doing that.

What do you think of Yamalube?

What do you think of Yamalube?

I don't think you can buy a 'bad' oil anymore, and it's more about the frerquency of changes than the actual oil as long as it's not El Cheapo oil in the first place.

I don't have much personal experience of Yamalube as it's very expensive here. I stock Putoline personally.

You make a very good point Mark. Thanks for pointing that out, makes perfect sense and you just saved me some money :thumbup

Do you replace the sump gasket every time as well? Just curious because last oil change I was contemplating dropping the sump for a good clean of sum and strainer but I didn't have a spare gasket and was worried if I damaged the original.

No problem mate, glad to help ;)

What I do with the gasket, when first fitting a new one is to lightly grease both sides, or even just one if you want it to 'stick to one surface. I just use a universal BNS grease and a very light smearing, just enough for it to 'soak' into the paper gasket. Make sure there's no excess.

This will stop it sticking to one side of the surface and mean it's reuseable many times.

I actually do that with all me engine cover gaskets where possible and it means they're all reuseable, and there's no time wasting and frustrating gasket scraping.

if you don't have grease readily available drop bear feces is an acceptable substitute :thumbup

Someone's spiked Ron's egg nog...! :scared

:lol

As crazy as this sounds, I do all my oil changes on my bike by removing the sump, cleaning it and the oil pickup strainer but then it's my job...


Mark, you've been a continuous source of invaluable information and help to me, and hundreds of other forum brothers. Your experience, and patience has saved me time and money many times. I love ya mate....but you truly are a freak! :bow :shake :lol

:lol Freak with a clean oil pan though :fact

You do have a valid point there....freak :lol

drop bear gasket dressing . . . what a brilliant fvcking idea . . . now to source it :sneaky

Drop bears are pretty common in Aus, Ron...they can be found almost anywhere there is a young kid or a gullible girl to scare the shit out of! :lol

I want these too! http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/operation http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/description

Are you registered with R6 forum to get a price from Passion Motorsports ?

I want one as well but don't want to order it from the UK,would prefer a vendor in the US..I would imagine the shipping and VAT from the UK would kill me.

No problem mate, glad to help ;)

What I do with the gasket, when first fitting a new one is to lightly grease both sides, or even just one if you want it to 'stick to one surface. I just use a universal BNS grease and a very light smearing, just enough for it to 'soak' into the paper gasket. Make sure there's no excess.

This will stop it sticking to one side of the surface and mean it's reuseable many times.

I actually do that with all me engine cover gaskets where possible and it means they're all reuseable, and there's no time wasting and frustrating gasket scraping.

:thumbup thanks very much. I can only imagine the tips and tricks one could pick up wrenching with you for a few days :)

:thumbup thanks very much. I can only imagine the tips and tricks one could pick up wrenching with you for a few days :)

:lol Thanks mate.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey being Number One! :hammer:

:lol thanks mate.

Righty tighty, lefty loosey being number one! :hammer:


damn :(

What if I were standing behind the bolt? :sneaky

damn :(

Don't worry, took me nine years to get the hang of that.

What if I were standing behind the bolt? :sneaky

Do it up behind your back.

Do it up behind your back.

Not so easily fooled :lol nice

Are you registered with R6 forum to get a price from Passion Motorsports ?

I want one as well but don't want to order it from the UK,would prefer a vendor in the US..I would imagine the shipping and VAT from the UK would kill me.

Yes Same price on R6! you should not have to pay VAT but shipping is like $ 56.00 from the UK so! It is pricey. I haven't found a US suppler For the valve and I was also wanting the brake bleeders

Here ya go:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/ce1b7633.jpg

As you can see, even ou sump doesn't have the drain at the very lowest point, but once you add a device like the one you're talking about, that just raises the lowest drain point even further. Quite a bit actually when you look at the whole sump floor. I'd say you'll be leaving half a pint in there minimum.

As crazy as this sounds, I do all my oil changes on my bike by removing the sump, cleaning it and the oil pickup strainer but then it's my job...


Next time you drop the pan, you should put the bolt back in after the majority of the oil drains out. It would be interesting to see how much oil actually sits even below that notch and pools in all of those nooks.

I can do that by measuring how much I can fill that spare sump with when it's at the same angle as the engine sits ;)

I can do that by measuring how much I can fill that spare sump with when it's at the same angle as the engine sits ;)

That would be cool!

I suppose that MIGHT be an easier way to do it.

But then how will you take tire pressure and type of chain lube into account?

I suppose that MIGHT be an easier way to do it.

But then how will you take tire pressure and type of chain lube into account?

:confused: :lol

:lol

I suppose that MIGHT be an easier way to do it.

But then how will you take tire pressure and type of chain lube into account?

I only use WD 40 for all tire pressure checks and oil changes:2bitchsla:sneaky:crash

Received mine today. Great construction. I'm pleased with it.

Does anyone know the length of the stock oil pan bolt? This one is coming in at 10mm after the copper washer. I can't imagine the stocker is all that much longer.

I know that's a null point since the channel is still blocked by the quick drain bolt, but I'm thinking a fair amount of oil sits in the pan anyway even if you do remove the bolt.

(Que Marcaz entry stage left with actual factual scientific data tested at Hockenheim to prove me wrong)

:lol

15mm :fact

so for optimal draining a standard drain plug is ideal then Marc, given the oil pan profile?

so for optimal draining a standard drain plug is ideal then Marc, given the oil pan profile?

Yep, without removing the sump, removing the standard plug is best removed, allowing the notch in the sump thread to drain fully is best.

Don't forget on the 5PW's onwards the spark can be disabled and more oil 'pumped' out through the oil filter fitting when changing oil ;)

I'll be taking some pics and measurements in a bit I'll post up ;)





It's stil MarK too! :lol

H'okay, did some testing.

Basically, the bottom of the sump sits level on my model when the engine is in place and both wheels on the floor, bike upright. Bear in mind that this testing is done as if oil is drained as the bike is, not with it lent over during draining, that would release more oil, but definitely not all of it.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/339a0546.jpg

Filling the sump with water (there's nhothing else in the sump to take up space when fitted except the oil pickup, which is fairly minimal as it's a hollow object, it took 400ml to fill up to the bottom of the thread notch, as if the standard oil plug was removed. That's a huge amount of fluid.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/9e193af6.jpg

I then put the oil plug in, threaded 10mm to simulate the quickvalve thingy.

580ml! :scared

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/34ced601.jpg

I think I'll stick to removing my sump...

I'm going to mill a oval hole in my oil drain plug thingy! to correspond with the casting slot. Once I determine how to index the thingy!LMAO

H'okay, did some testing.

Basically, the bottom of the sump sits level on my model when the engine is in place and both wheels on the floor, bike upright. Bear in mind that this testing is done as if oil is drained as the bike is, not with it lent over during draining, that would release more oil, but definitely not all of it.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/339a0546.jpg

Filling the sump with water (there's nhothing else in the sump to take up space when fitted except the oil pickup, which is fairly minimal as it's a hollow object, it took 400ml to fill up to the bottom of the thread notch, as if the standard oil plug was removed. That's a huge amount of fluid.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/9e193af6.jpg

I then put the oil plug in, threaded 10mm to simulate the quickvalve thingy.

580ml! :scared

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/34ced601.jpg

I think I'll stick to removing my sump...

Nice experiment Mark :bow I'm thinking ill order a new sump gasket so I can do the little grease trick you mentioned. And start pulling the pan ever 2nd third change. I change oil at 3,000 km ( 1850 odd Mi ) and that's for road riding rarely seeing above 12k RPM with a stock motor. So I think that should be plenty of over kill :lol AHHH I love over kill :fact

I'm going to mill a oval hole in my oil drain plug thingy! to correspond with the casting slot. Once I determine how to index the thingy!LMAO

I was thinking a similar thing, but my idea was a little less.... refined :lol

I thought to install the drain valve > remove the sump > grind out the thread thats blocking oil flow > re-install sump > change oil with big smile on face :D

Subscribed.

stone...should just be able to install the new drain plug with fresh crush washer. tighten down to where you want it use sharpie to mark where you know the cutout is inside the pan. see Marcs picture above. remove drain bolt cut, saw, dremel, drill, torch or destroy in some way a 1/8th inch section on same side that you marked with sharpie. reinstall with a new crush washer...BUt use the same brand as the first time to get a consistant "crush" as the first one had. tighten to same torque as first time and try to line your sharpie mark back up in the same spot.

or you could do it the easy way...remove oil pan. buy a new oil pan gasket use sharpie to mark the actual threads that show through the cutout...cut out 1/8th inch of threads reinstall oil pan. hint of advice...use star bolt screwdriver that wont "twist" I had a oil pan bolt ...actually 2 that stripped out when just doing it by hand. used an impact wrench on them and came out instantly with no problems or twisting or stripping

stone...should just be able to install the new drain plug with fresh crush washer. tighten down to where you want it use sharpie to mark where you know the cutout is inside the pan. see Marcs picture above. remove drain bolt cut, saw, dremel, drill, torch or destroy in some way a 1/8th inch section on same side that you marked with sharpie. reinstall with a new crush washer...BUt use the same brand as the first time to get a consistant "crush" as the first one had. tighten to same torque as first time and try to line your sharpie mark back up in the same spot.

or you could do it the easy way...remove oil pan. buy a new oil pan gasket use sharpie to mark the actual threads that show through the cutout...cut out 1/8th inch of threads reinstall oil pan. hint of advice...use star bolt screwdriver that wont "twist" I had a oil pan bolt ...actually 2 that stripped out when just doing it by hand. used an impact wrench on them and came out instantly with no problems or twisting or stripping

How long did it take you to pull the pan? Did it clear the exhaust?

How long did it take you to pull the pan? Did it clear the exhaust?

you have to drop the headers. so youll probably have to remove the y pipe also to break the connection to the headers. after that its a breeze.

I change my oil with it on the rear stand and not on a front stand,so the oil pan is tipped foward quite a bit! I dont think it would hold that much fluid http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i470/davejac/002-3.jpg

you have to drop the headers. so youll probably have to remove the y pipe also to break the connection to the headers. after that its a breeze.

FOOK THAT:ncont:

I change my oil with it on the rear stand and not on a front stand,so the oil pan is tipped foward quite a bit! I dont think it would hold that much fluide

haha you just dont wanna drop the headers huh...trying to find a way out of it now

haha you just dont wanna drop the headers huh...trying to find a way out of it now

Not pulling pan Unless something is broke!:hammer:

I change my oil with it on the rear stand and not on a front stand,so the oil pan is tipped foward quite a bit! I dont think it would hold that much fluid

You'll get out approx 100ml more, there's not as much difference in angle of the sump just because it's on a rear stand as you may think.

You can see from the fact that your bike is on a rear stand, and your oil level is over full in that pic unless the bike is running in it.

You'll get out approx 100ml more, there's not as much difference in angle of the sump just because it's on a rear stand as you may think.

You can see from the fact that your bike is on a rear stand, and your oil level is over full in that pic unless the bike is running in it.

It's about a pint overfull. In that picture it is not running, but notice the gasket seam on the pan is at a pretty good angle in that picture

The gasket seam doesn't sit level when both wheels are on the floor. The absolute bottom of the pan does. Drop your bike off the stand, get someone to hold it upright and you'll see how little difference there is.

You can tell from that picture. See how high your rear wheel isn't, then transpose that height to the sump, it's only changing it by a small angle.

It's all good with me though, do what you want with your oil as long as you're happy ;)

Here's the angle that seam sits at when the sump floor is level, ie the bike is on its wheels...

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/marcaztls/2adcb991.jpg

I see what your saying! I'm not disagreeing with you, I was just trying to get as much oil out of it as I can without dismantiling the bike. And thanks for pictures and the fluid test It helped to see what it looked like!

What about when you change the oil fiveo style? I tried this last time, and I got a good 100ml extra out. Was quite impressed.

If you use a good oil and change it offten I don't think it really matters!

What about when you change the oil fiveo style? I tried this last time, and I got a good 100ml extra out. Was quite impressed.

Yep, that's what I meant a few posts ago when I talked about being able to pump oil out of the oil filter boss. Well worth doing, anything that gets old oil out is good in my book.

If you use a good oil and change it offten I don't think it really matters!

Quite possibly not but if you've ever removed an oil pan that's covered a few thousand miles, you'll have seen the sludge that builds up in the bottom.

Believe me, I'm not trying to tell you guys how to change your oil, or that you need to strip the entire engine and lick it clean, but I do recommend removing and cleaning the oil pan every 10k miles or so. It doesn't take long and it'll make you feel much better for doing it once you see the crap you'll have cleaned out ;)

Yep, that's what I meant a few posts ago when I talked about being able to pump oil out of the oil filter boss. Well worth doing, anything that gets old oil out is good in my book.



Quite possibly not but if you've ever removed an oil pan that's covered a few thousand miles, you'll have seen the sludge that builds up in the bottom.

Believe me, I'm not trying to tell you guys how to change your oil, or that you need to strip the entire engine and lick it clean, but I do recommend removing and cleaning the oil pan every 10k miles or so. It doesn't take long and it'll make you feel much better for doing it once you see the crap you'll have cleaned out ;)
he is right on the sludge buildup. when i stripped my drain bolt out and replaced the oil pan the old one had a decent amount of built up sludge in it and I had around 15K on the bike at the time

Clutch material probably

Yep, that's what I meant a few posts ago when I talked about being able to pump oil out of the oil filter boss. Well worth doing, anything that gets old oil out is good in my book.



Quite possibly not but if you've ever removed an oil pan that's covered a few thousand miles, you'll have seen the sludge that builds up in the bottom.

Believe me, I'm not trying to tell you guys how to change your oil, or that you need to strip the entire engine and lick it clean, but I do recommend removing and cleaning the oil pan every 10k miles or so. It doesn't take long and it'll make you feel much better for doing it once you see the crap you'll have cleaned out ;)

I'm converted... damn you! More work! :hammer:

Clutch material probably

no...it was old oil.

Quite possibly Believe me, I'm not trying to tell you guys how to change your oil, or that you need to strip the entire engine and lick it clean, but I do recommend removing and cleaning the oil pan every 10k miles or so. It doesn't take long and it'll make you feel much better for doing it once you see the crap you'll have cleaned out ;)

Dammit. Between you and Ian I'm never getting out of the garage

Dammit. Between you and Ian I'm never getting out of the garage


Well the quick drain plug is out now too :lol

Well the quick drain plug is out now too :lol
Mine is ordered!:flex:

Ive had mine for years and the oil pan is a revelation for sure as Ive never pulled mine I dont think its a big deal. The ease of use is brilliant:fact

Now I've seen the inside I'm going to continue the traditional way or even pull the pan now :shake Thanks Mark :lol

Now I've seen the inside I'm going to continue the traditional way or even pull the pan now :shake Thanks Mark :lol

If yours is dirty, I'm afraid to look at mine :/

Good stuff there Mark. Thanks for that. I have to imagine a great deal of that liquid volume is lost when you put the bike on it's side stand though (with the bolt out or quick drain fitting in).

I'm willing to trade the extra .190 quarts for the ease of quickly dropping my oil without fussing about to cover the exhaust. Perhaps every 3rd change I'll remove the entire fitting for good measure. :thumbup

Thats my route too... good knowledge to know though thanks Mark:beer

^ He's going to burn your house down for misspelling his name again :lol

I didnt type his name wrong you misread it while I corrected it:crash

Ha! I saw nothing!

:lol

Glad to help guys ;)

I never noticed before but if you check the manual it says total capacity is 3.8 litres but then says replacement without filter is 2.9 litres and with filter is 3.1 litres.
They are actually stating that .7 litres is remaining in there during a change which is 1/5 of the total and is pretty much exactly what Mark proved, that was pretty surprising to me :fact
If you didn't buy quite enough fresh oil, would you top it off with nearly a quart of the old oil you just took out because that is essentially what happens. taking it off a rear stand seems like a good tip and something I wasn't doing all the time, till now anyway :fact

What about something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Oil-Change-Pump-501060-3-/180753911160?hash=item2a15c5cd78&item=180753911160&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr

I'm going to change mine today I think, going to let it drain on the rear stand and then try and see how much more comes out on the kickstand.

I'm going to change mine today I think, going to let it drain on the rear stand and then try and see how much more comes out on the kickstand.

See if you can get a measurement on the the fluid.

I never noticed before but if you check the manual it says total capacity is 3.8 litres but then says replacement without filter is 2.9 litres and with filter is 3.1 litres.
They are actually stating that .7 litres is remaining in there during a change which is 1/5 of the total and is pretty much exactly what Mark proved, that was pretty surprising to me :fact
If you didn't buy quite enough fresh oil, would you top it off with nearly a quart of the old oil you just took out because that is essentially what happens. taking it off a rear stand seems like a good tip and something I wasn't doing all the time, till now anyway :fact

Very, very good point. It was staring us in the face the whole time.

Interesting points about draining on rear or side stand. I've never owned a race stand ( sad I know :lol ) but I've always let it drain on side stand till it stops and then stand the bike up right, lay it both sides as far as I can without dropping it etc. I gets quite a lot more out.


Question to you Mark. Would there be any harm to crank my motor over, in diag. mode of course, with the sump off? Do you think there would be any benefit as opposed to doing it with the sum on? Just trying to work out in which order I'm going to do all this :lol

Heat bike > dump oil > remove filter > crank over a few times in 3 sec bursts > remove sump > lick clean

I think :lol

See if you can get a measurement on the the fluid.

Yeah I'm going to try and get some idea :thumbup

Interesting points about draining on rear or side stand. I've never owned a race stand ( sad I know :lol ) but I've always let it drain on side stand till it stops and then stand the bike up right, lay it both sides as far as I can without dropping it etc. I gets quite a lot more out.

That's exactly the way to do it, combined with the Fiveoh oil change method of pumping out. See below ;)

Question to you Mark. Would there be any harm to crank my motor over, in diag. mode of course, with the sump off? Do you think there would be any benefit as opposed to doing it with the sum on? Just trying to work out in which order I'm going to do all this :lol

Heat bike > dump oil > remove filter > crank over a few times in 3 sec bursts > remove sump > lick clean

I think :lol

There's no real point doing it with the sump off, but it won't hurt anything either.

If you do things in the order you listed above, just a couple of three-five seconds bursts in diag mode with the oil filter off will pump as much out of the galleries as possible. Then remove the pan and clean it every now and then if you want to be as meticulous as reasonably possible

When you refit the pan and refill the bike, crank it in diag for a couple more bursts to prime the system again and that will be fine ;)

Thanks for clarifying that :thumbup

Defiantly a good tip to re-prime as well. And prime the filter before fitting.

I learnt that from my Dad once, he's no mechanic but very logically & mechanically minded. We were firing up his old 750 katana ( mad max bike :lol ) that hadn't been fired in a good few years. First thing he did was throw her up on the centre stand, put her in top gear and crank the motor over a few times. At first I though "what the hell are you doing"? But then he explained the oil etc...

When I hadn't started my bike for a few weeks I'd do the same, 6th gear, pull the clutch in, get a run up and dump the clutch and push hard to get a few turns outta the donk! Since reading fivo's thread it's made life a lot easier :hammer:

Yep, I forgot to mention filling the oil filter first, good call ;)

:thumbup

Yep, I forgot to mention filling the oil filter first, good call ;)

How many miles do you put on between oil changes? Is it mostly street? do you have track miles?

9 page oil thread. Yep, that's about right.

Thankfully no-one's actually mentioned oil brands yet though! :hammer:

Thankfully no-one's actually mentioned oil brands yet though! :hammer:

SSSHHHHH! Don't jinx it :hammer:

Is a pleasant surprise though

Thankfully no-one's actually mentioned oil brands yet though! :hammer:

speaking of which i was on the mustang forums the other day and an Amsoil dealer realized I had a bike and used Rotella T6 in the bike and the stang and that i MUST try his oil...its the best of the best of the best

post #9 10 and 11
http://mustangforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/658294-oil-prices-walmart-is-over-20-cheaper.html

speaking of which i was on the mustang forums the other day and an Amsoil dealer realized I had a bike and used Rotella T6 in the bike and the stang and that i MUST try his oil...its the best of the best of the best

post #9 10 and 11
http://mustangforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/658294-oil-prices-walmart-is-over-20-cheaper.html

Haha what a douche bag.

speaking of which i was on the mustang forums the other day and an Amsoil dealer realized I had a bike and used Rotella T6 in the bike and the stang and that i MUST try his oil...its the best of the best of the best

post #9 10 and 11
http://mustangforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/658294-oil-prices-walmart-is-over-20-cheaper.html

amsoil reps are psycho's!

amsoil reps are psycho's!

yup and the sellers themselves are the reason i will never buy Amsoil...if someone constantly pushes something on me ill never buy that product. and these amsoil reps are almost as bad a religious people trying to push their religious views on people.
if amsoil is so set on their product being the best and are so sure that everyone that uses it once will use it for life then why not give out a free sample for 1 oil change :lol they may lose the initial $50 on those freebies...but they will make hundreds upon hundreds of dollars per person per year since we will "never use another oil again"

As you say! I won't touch the stuff because of the Reps.

OK here's the update from my change, thought it might be of interest but maybe not :lol

Drained oil out with bike on rear stand and removed the filter. Bike was nice and warm and I let it drain until there was basically nothing left dripping. I then removed the rear stand and put it on the side stand over a fresh container.
This is the extra you get out on the side stand.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/Redgecko59/Oilchange008.jpg

So that was another 350ml.
I then let that completely finish and refilled.
I used a 1 Gallon or 3.875litre container of oil and when I was back up to level, after a run and top off, this is what had left.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/Redgecko59/Oilchange009.jpg

So that was 500ml, which means I got 3.375 litres back in.

If the manual is correct and the bike holds 3.8 that means there is about 425ml that stayed in there.

I know this is by no means exact but thought you guys might find it interesting :dunno

Very interesting Ian. Almost 1/2 a liter still in there :scared

Going to make a call the city Yamaha in 30 mins when they open and order me a sum gasket :fact this is crazy... It's like only washing half your bike.

Very interesting Ian. Almost 1/2 a liter still in there :scared

Going to make a call the city Yamaha in 30 mins when they open and order me a sum gasket :fact this is crazy... It's like only washing half your bike.

Yeah not an exact list of measurements :lol but there must be some still in there :fact (Not doubting you Mark :bow)
See if you can post something similar with your findings. :thumbup

OK here's the update from my change, thought it might be of interest but maybe not :lol

Drained oil out with bike on rear stand and removed the filter. Bike was nice and warm and I let it drain until there was basically nothing left dripping. I then removed the rear stand and put it on the side stand over a fresh container.
This is the extra you get out on the side stand.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/Redgecko59/Oilchange008.jpg

So that was another 350ml.
I then let that completely finish and refilled.
I used a 1 Gallon or 3.875litre container of oil and when I was back up to level, after a run and top off, this is what had left.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/Redgecko59/Oilchange009.jpg

So that was 500ml, which means I got 3.375 litres back in.

If the manual is correct and the bike holds 3.8 that means there is about 425ml that stayed in there.

I know this is by no means exact but thought you guys might find it interesting :dunno

wondering if you did the five0 style change also to pump out more oil? or if you just drained it like most people would do?

and hell thats damn near a coke can of oil left in it when comparing rear stand and side stand.

No I didn't do the fiveO as I wanted to do it as most people do and see those results. I will try the fiveO method next time to compare :thumbup

Thankfully no-one's actually mentioned oil brands yet though! :hammer:

I'd recruit a mod to clean that ish up if it happens

Yeah not an exact list of measurements :lol but there must be some still in there :fact (Not doubting you Mark :bow)
See if you can post something similar with your findings. :thumbup

I thought for sure you'd take the pan off! :/ Nice work though sir!

No I didn't do the fiveO as I wanted to do it as most people do and see those results. I will try the fiveO method next time to compare :thumbup

wait....were you running Amsoil? if not thats probably why you had so much oil left in there. They have engineered Amsoil so that its self draining and self cleaning. it knows when the drain plug is removed and every last drop flows out within 3.5 minutes and it leaves no residue and the entire oil pan sparkles afterwards.

I thought for sure you'd take the pan off! :/ Nice work though sir!


Maybe when it's warmer :thumbup :lol

Would any oil be retained in the clutch drum and in the gearbox? I have never seen inside one of these engines and was just wondering how complete they drain back to the pan.

Would any oil be retained in the clutch drum and in the gearbox? I have never seen inside one of these engines and was just wondering how complete they drain back to the pan.

If Mark told you there's another 300ml hiding in these places would you pull the clutch and gear box every change?

:crash :hammer:

We mays well go all motogp like and strip the bike completely after each ride :lol

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UazjlEXFTmo/TESzuBNHUwI/AAAAAAAAAFM/vGU8NUF0Ne0/s1600/40-772002.jpg

To Mark's defense he does work for probably one of the coolest sportbike magazines around as a wrench etc so his level of nerding out is totally acceptable, and from my side applauded:yesnod

I have issues cleaning my bike let alone being on that level of nerdery. Then you have a high level military helo mechanic wizard firehawk do his thing, then there is that supernerd Ripperton, dont know what to think of his stuff. His bikes can go fast without gas, and weigh half the weight. wth. Not alot of space for numbnuts like me to keep up:lol

I love the nerding too :fact

I only meant in my last post... Where do you draw the line :lol I didn't mean any disrespect to Mark at all :fact

I was being sarcastic bro... those guys are legends in the OCD game

It's all good guys ;)

D., thanks for including me in the Nerdy Bunch. I think! :lol

Stonewall, there's plenty of oil left in the galleries throughout the crankcases, crank, cams, transmission shafts and more. Using Fiveoh's technique you'll be able to pump most of that out while changing oil but you'll never remove all oil. There's so many places throughout the engine where oil pools in areas that are impossible to drain down, unless you fancy rolling your bike around like a ball.

All you can do is the best you can, and I'm sure that'll be good enough. It's more about regular oil changes than anything else ;)

I strip my entire engine once a year, clean everything while I'm doing it, then by 1000-2000 miles into the first rides with completely clean and fresh oil it's virtually black again. Nothing to worry about though.

:scared Holy shyt! :bow

I strip my entire engine once a year, clean everything while I'm doing it,

You're completely, and abso-fuvking-lutely ( in a good way ) bonkers! :hammer:

I wish I knew how to strip my engine down completely, and be able to do it quick enough that it would be feasible to do it regularly.

After building my bike back from a wreak the satisfaction riding it is incredible. Must be great knowing you built every heartbeat that engine makes :cool:

I think I will just change my oil before it gets to black so it will stay clean. When I did the first change it still looked like new when drained and the second time it was at 1,000 miles it still looked like new, not discolored at all. and I have changed it at that enterval since then. Oil is cheaper than an engine as they say.

You change your oil every 1000mi (650km)?

It's all good guys ;)

D., thanks for including me in the Nerdy Bunch. I think! :lol

Stonewall, there's plenty of oil left in the galleries throughout the crankcases, crank, cams, transmission shafts and more. Using Fiveoh's technique you'll be able to pump most of that out while changing oil but you'll never remove all oil. There's so many places throughout the engine where oil pools in areas that are impossible to drain down, unless you fancy rolling your bike around like a ball.

All you can do is the best you can, and I'm sure that'll be good enough. It's more about regular oil changes than anything else ;)

I strip my entire engine once a year, clean everything while I'm doing it, then by 1000-2000 miles into the first rides with completely clean and fresh oil it's virtually black again. Nothing to worry about though.

I agree Mark and with today's oil quality I'm sure pretty much all of us change our oil more frequently than needed if truth be known, good thing is you can read threads like this and then go as far as you want to.
I was surprised to see how much old oil stayed in just by leaving it on the rear stand though and admit I have been guilty of that in the past, had I added a quick drain I could of even doubled that. :dunno
So from now on I have gained an advantage over what I was doing, rather than a possible disadvantage and for me that makes this thread, like many others, a useful one. :thumbup

well said man :thumbup

You change your oil every 1000mi (650km)?

Mine see's alot of high ambient temps in the 100*+ range so I change it more offten.

Maybe when it's warmer :thumbup :lol

Just roll it into the dining area. Tables are overrated. The mrs won't mind :lol

Fair enough then :) I thought I was overly enthusiastic. I do mine at 3000km or 1864mi.

You're completely, and abso-fuvking-lutely ( in a good way ) bonkers! :hammer:

I wish I knew how to strip my engine down completely, and be able to do it quick enough that it would be feasible to do it regularly.

After building my bike back from a wreak the satisfaction riding it is incredible. Must be great knowing you built every heartbeat that engine makes :cool:

:lol I should add that I don't strip the engine every year just to clean it. I'm normally doing it to further more tuning work, or some other crazy idea I've had...

Yep, it is a great feeling stripping and rebuilding any engine, then having it physically propel you along is a nice sense of achievement.

I'm sure you can do plenty of things that I can't, and what I do is only nuts and bolts, so not really that hard, but thanks, nice thing to say ;)

I agree Mark and with today's oil quality I'm sure pretty much all of us change our oil more frequently than needed if truth be known, good thing is you can read threads like this and then go as far as you want to.
I was surprised to see how much old oil stayed in just by leaving it on the rear stand though and admit I have been guilty of that in the past, had I added a quick drain I could of even doubled that. :dunno
So from now on I have gained an advantage over what I was doing, rather than a possible disadvantage and for me that makes this thread, like many others, a useful one. :thumbup

Glad to be able to help Ian ;)

Just roll it into the dining area. Tables are overrated. The mrs won't mind :lol

Certainly wouldn't be the first time :lol

You change your oil every 1000mi (650km)?
Roughly 1,600 km.

Roughly 1,600 km.

Whops! Quite right you are :)

I run Amsoil and only change every 25,000miles :crash

:2bitchsla



:hammer:



Edit: makes me think.... I wonder how long a motor would last if you did the first oil change to synthetic, and then never changed it again :dunno

got this in the mail today, SEXY! with the race cap for wire tie! http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/description

Hey Stone you have a vendor for the bleeders? Or did you go direct? thanks mang:beer

Hey Stone you have a vendor for the bleeders? Or did you go direct? thanks mang:beer

I got them From D DEEZY He took my order for the oil valve and the bleeders The Invoice Is from TGP MOTO Racing USA Price was $41.74 each with colored cap of your choice The web site of the Company is TGP-Racing.com

And how much for the oil valve please?

I want exactly the same two items.

Leave a review after you test them maybe for everyone on here.

I got them From D DEEZY He took my order for the oil valve and the bleeders The Invoice Is from TGP MOTO Racing USA Price was $41.74 each with colored cap of your choice The web site of the Company is TGP-Racing.com