Hi, I had been looking at this forum for some time now and I finally decided to write something :D. I have a 2001 R1 (red), sense the bike has not have many changes yet!! Except for a euro tail I have been playing with the suspension. I have had a Honda CBR, a Kawasaki XZ-7, Ducati 996, and a 2001 Suzuki 750 and I have to tell you my R1 is not the fastest out off the bunch yet!! But is definitely a fun bike to ride. For the street is the best bike I have had :rock. Ok, let’s talk about some suspension now. I have read some of the forums suggestions and I have even try some, but I found and article that really made a difference in by bike’s suspension.

This is it: http://www.speedmadness.com/SuspSetupTipsP9.html

Front
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 4 clicks out
Preload 6-8 lines showing
Tire Pressure 35 psi

Rear
Compression 1 click out
Rebound 3 clicks out
Preload 2 steps less
Tire Pressure 39psi

Comments:
1. The preload in front was set up by 71/2 lines showing. (I’m 190 lbs. Give or take 3-5 lbs.)
2. The preload in the rear is max preload –2 clicks back. (the picture in the article is upside-down)

So far I really like this set up for the street :D, I hope you guys like it as well and if you find out some other combination that works better let me know, I’m always willing to try anything to improve the ride and performance of my bike.

Ps: I order a full Akrapovic exhaust and jet kit, I will probably get it next week, I will let you guys know how it goes.

Sweet man!
And Welcome aboard :hellobye

I'll definetly save this page and try out those suspension settings as soon the season starts again. It's -13c right now.. snow everywhere.. and sun. Very nice weather.. but dude, no chance of using the bike. :no


Oh.. hmm. My bike is currently 1 meter away from me..

Maybe I can play around with the suspension right now? or should I wait.

How hard is it to get back to default settings?

Make sure to record all settings before playing with then is case you don't like these settings you can always go back.

But honestly I think you will be very happy w/this settings. :cool:

Rick25,

I tried your settings today and found that the rear rebound at 3 clicks out throughs me out of the seat at speed when hitting a bump in the road. Not realy what you want mid corner at 160km.

I was showing 5 lines on preload at the front and went to 6. I found this a big improvment. Compression 6 clicks out was also an improvment on my 4 clicks out, But the front rebound at 4 clicks out was to much for the road. On a smooth track cool but on the road it made the front less forgiving and tend to make also more slapper happy.

I payed with your settings and came up with this:-

Front:
--------

Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out (big differance)
Preload 6 lines showing (more & bottom out on brakes)
Tire pressure 34psi


Back:
-------

Compression 3 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out (Stay in that seat, more tracktion)
Preload 1 step less (thats pos. 8 out of 9)
Tire pressure 38 psi

Whith these settings the bike was more confidance inspiring, forgiving and constantly faster to ride by miles.

I also have no steering damper as yet...
I weigh 88kg or 194lbs

please try and let me know what you guys and gals think.............:rock

Thanks, Dave
I will try this settings today and will let you know as soon as possible.:D

you two still ride :cryin

It's -10c here and half a meter of snow :(

Sorry, Swedie
I live in Miami, I can ride all year long.:cool:

I"ve had a play with my settings

Front:Raised 4mm in yokes turns in quicker: Preload: 6 (standard) : Rebound: +4: Compression: +2

Rear:Preload: 3 out from max: Rebound: standard: Compression: standard
;)

Hey Rumpy,

Don't you find the rear end a little soft under power. I mean under power the R1 tends to squat, raising the front and upsetting the balance of the bike. This is aparently why the R1 gose wide at the apex of a corner at speed.

But then again different people have different riding styles. :)

Oh by the way swedie -10C, What The.............
It's summer Down Under and lovin it, 30C.:cool:

Hi Dave, I tried those settings and I have to tell you they work great!!:D
They work out a lot better than the settings in that article, I guess it’s because you and I weigh about the same. Probably the person who wrote the article weigh about 50 lb. less or so and that will explain why the back end was soft under power.

Front:
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out (big differance)
Preload 6 lines showing (more & bottom out on brakes)
Tire pressure 34psi

Back:
Compression 3 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out (Stay in that seat, more tracktion)
Preload 1 step less (thats pos. 8 out of 9)
Tire pressure 38 psi

Thanks for testing the setting I presented and coming back w/feedback.:rock

I'm glad that you liked the settings............:)

Hey by the way, are you running dunlop D207 still?

The reason I ask is that I'm up for a new set of tyres soon and Bridgestone BT-010 seem to be the go. Apparently they improve the turn in and help stop the R1 from running wide at the apex under speed.

What do you think?????????? :confused:

Going to try this set up for my R1 is it really that much better,do i have to turn the screw all the way in then turn them out one click at a time..............

Hi
I am about 70 KG (155 lb?)
Any ideas??:error
Bought it used,and haven´t tryed to adjust.

R1-IAN, Yes it did make a lot of different on the way the bike handles and behaves.
Yes, screw all the way in then turn them out one click at a time..............

Brisse, You should try the first setup first and then try the socond one and decide what you like more.:D

Cheers m8,I will try it out...................

Brisse,

At 10kg less I would still stick with my settings(2nd lot) but take a screwdriver with you on your ride.

Start at the rear shock. Leave the preload as this is basicly the ride hight. If you feel rear is pushing you out of you seat reduce the rebound 1 click, no more than 2 clicks. With the compression try to leave it where it is, this is to stop the rear squatting under power out of corners.

At the front everything should be fine. Try it out.... :)

I've lowered my front by 5mm today with the aid of my son Nicholas, and will let you guys know what I think...............:D

Ps. You should always wind settings all the way in and then count clicks out, just to make sure your at were your ment to be.

Thanks....................

Hey Rick25,

Slide the forks through the triple clamps 5mm and set the front preload to 5 lines showing, thats the 6th line is level with the nut on the top of the fork (STD Pos.).

All other settings are the same as before.No steering damper as yet(No sign of needing one yet). Absaloutly kicks butt, turns in so quick holds its line and faster again through the corners with confidence.

Its so conidence inspiring becarefull not to go in to hot into corners, I did and it was heart in mouth stuff.......

For the lighter guys out there the front preload might be OK. I put it up to 5 lines showing only becuase I felt the front was diving a little to much on the brakes.

Im not shure about on a 98-99 R1 but on the 00-01 models these settings totaly transformed the R1 into a bike that can be riden hard everywhere.

Try it and please let me know what you guys think....

:rock :rock :rock :rock

Hey R1_Dave,

I weigh 225 lbs. How do You think those settings would work for Me ? I'm running D207's.

ChampionR1,

Hard to say but start with this:

Front:
--------

Lowered: 5mm
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 5 lines showing
Tire pressure 34psi


Back:
-------

Compression 2 clicks out (upped 1 click from my setting)
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 1 step less (thats pos. 8 out of 9)
Tire pressure 39 psi (upped by 1 psi)

Go for a ride and try it out, it all should be pretty close. First pay attention to the rear.

If it feels to soft up the rebound by 1 click, but if this upsets the bike over bumps by pushing you out of the seat return the setting back to 5 clicks out and up the compression to 1 click out. I recommend the rebound adjustment first.

Now the front should be pretty good. The only thing might be, soft under brakes, to much dive. I don't think this will happen but if it dose up the preload by one line and lower the front by another millimeter (1mm). That is you new settings for the front if to soft on brakes should now be:


Front:
--------

Lowered: 6mm
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 4 lines showing
Tire pressure 34psi

Upping the preload will firm up the front under brakes but at the same time it will rase the ride hight by about 1mm, hence lower the front by an added 1mm.

Hope this is of some help........

Please let me know how you went..................:)

Thx R1_Dave I'll try those settings out when I get a chance !! It's snowing right now :^(

YO R1 Dave

Should i also lower my front 5 mm?
Will the bike be tankslapper-happy?:eek:
What do you say my set-up should be??
70 kg.
Michelin pilot sport tyres.
Can´t test it yet...snow all over the place for at least 2 months more:butt
Thanks in advance.;)

Brisse,

If you have a 00-01 R1, No Worries lowering the front. If you have a 98-99 R1 Try it but I'm not sure about splappers.

As for settings try this:

Front:
--------

Lowered: 4mm
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 6 lines showing
Tire pressure 34psi


Back:
-------

Compression 3 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 1 step less (thats pos. 8 out of 9)
Tire pressure 38 psi

If the front feels soft on the brakes (dives) then up the front preload to 5 lines showing. Thats line 6 should be sitting flush with the nuts on top of the forks. Also lower the front by another millimeter(1mm). That will be a lowered front end of 5mm.

Give it a go, you will love it.

Oh see how close you can get the front to the edge..............
:D :D :D

Well I about the same size as champion R1 6'0 215. I am going to try his settings. The only question I have is when you mention lowering the front 5mm how is this acomplished. Yes I know sounds like a dumb question to most of you.

Thanks,
Bill

I just stared riding an R1 a few weeks ago, I came from riding a GSXR 750 and I felt the R1 was a lot more unstable and needed some suspension adustmensts. I weigh 200 lbs without leathers and a helmet and I've heard about the dreaded tankslappers that R1's have been know for so I asked around. Jim Sheldon the owner of the site where the original settings on this thread came from speedmadness.com got back to me, so I figured that I would post his reply for all the guys in here at the 200lb weight and higher. It's long...but informative.You should set your ride hieght before setting your sag. Check his website out at www.speedmadness.com

I would not run to much preload in the rear shock as you will give up
traction if the suspension cannot compress.

Instead, consider lowering your fork tubes in the following incriments

Start with 1/2 inch, (from the triple clamp to the top of the fork) if
you are not bottoming the forks and you want to go further go to 1 inch
and to a maximum of 1 1/2 inches.

The further you drop the tube's, the quicker the steering, the bigger
the tank slappers. It's a trade off. Best bet is to go with the least
amount of drop on the forks. And by all means run a steering damper.

The alternative is to have the forks revalved and the correct springs
installed. At your weight, springs would be a good idea. (Lindemann
charges 550.00 for revalve, oil and springs)

The rear shock is way under sprung. I can say what will help that other
than again looking at a rebuild and spring change. Though you can
probaly find a used FOX shock on 2wf.com (Just be sure that it has a
spring for your weight, otherwise it's another 100.00 for the spring
from FOX).

As far as adjusting the compression and rebound damping. In all honesty,
you will gain very little testing these adjustments on the street. You
should take the bike to the track. And you'll need to take a copy of
OHLINS suspension adjustments with you so you know what to try.

Normally on the street I would be and I rarely ride on the street around
here so I'd say somewhere twisty like Deals Gap, I am 1 to 2 clicks
softer on the suspension as compared to the track.

I might also caution you before you start. It is very easy to get lost
when you start adjusting suspension. Keep a record. If you don't you
will regret it. It dosen't take many turns to get confused as to where
you were.

One other thing. And I am not trying to sell you on this. BUT, your best
bet is to let someone knowledgable, ie Lindemann or Race-Tech as well as
the few other tuners out there do the work for you. What they can do,
that you can't is get it very close to what you want and need. It
simplifies the process to dealing with compression and rebound
adjustments and they are usually pretty close.

The big problem with the R1 is that it is grossly undersprung and at
your weight it will be very difficult to get it right. Your in a big
trade off position with the stock suspension. It worked ok for me but I
weigh 125 lb's (though I still felt that the front end was was to
soft).

And remember, adjusting the ride height will make the back end of the
big light on heavy braking. It' also loads the front tire more. All of
this lead's to the dreaded tank slapper. (as far as a steering damper, I
highly recommend the Scotts. It is very easy to install and works!)

One place in Indiana you might try is Evansville Superbike 812-477-1740.
Ask for Gary. He has alot of Yamaha experience and has done some AMA
Superbike stuff. He can probaly set you on the right track.

Suspension is very much an individual feeling. every rider feels
different about a setting, ie more or less rebound, weather or not the
bike runs wide in the corners (an R1 traight) There are so many factor
involved, hell in Pro racing Tires and Suspension setup mean almost and
many times as much as the motor. It is not a simple art to learn. I
learn something every trackday, as far as the setup, changes i try,
tires and tire pressure. Take your time.

Best of luck

--
Jim

I was told by R1 riders (much more experienced than me ;) ) that suspension settings depend on the rider's weight, riding style and the road conditions. They said the stock R1 suspension works for riders up to 170lbs. This is confirmed by the post above.

They referred me to Max at Traxxion Dynamics. I told him how much I weigh (190lbs), my style of riding and the bike I ride. I shipped my forks to him. He reworked them and sent them back along with a new shock. He made all the settings. I can't begin to describe how much it improved the handling of my bike. :D

I would think that the stock suspension would be fine for a person weighing 200 lbs. plus. For the fact that it is made to support 2 passengers. obviously the weight with two passengers will exceed 200lbs. Just My .02

The front forks are valved for a rider of 150 lbs from the factory. Add riding gear and it puts you at 170 to 180lbs. That is the optimum setting. The problem is... us heavier riders compensate by stiffening up the suspension so we don't bottom out the forks and rear spring which in turn makes it very unforgiving in the corners. You won't notice much on the street unless you ride really hard. I've been riding at the track on my Gixxer for 4 years now, and I've never come close to pushing it to the limits on the street. Don't get me wrong, I can still drag my pegs through the corners any day of the week, but I'm not braking from 130 to 40 and then accellerating from 1st all the way to the top of 4th gear and then braking again constantly upsetting the suspension for 30 minutes on the streets.
That is the reason why when I got the R1 and it felt unstable I figured I contact some people in my weight range with experience on the street and track. If you go to the Race Tech website, you can enter the year of your bike and your weight and riding style and it even tells you which springs for your forks to go with (if needed) to match your suspension to your weight. If you fill out the form and then read everything, it even tells you the rear spring on the bike is set up for a 170lb rider (give or take 10lbs)

Originally posted by ChampionR1
I would think that the stock suspension would be fine for a person weighing 200 lbs. plus. For the fact that it is made to support 2 passengers. obviously the weight with two passengers will exceed 200lbs. Just My .02
I would have expected the same thing. It was pointed out to me that Americans are, on the average, taller and heavier than people from other countries. The stock suspension probably works for the majority of their buyers.

And the R1 has been targeted for near track use. Most hard-core racers will swap the suspension components for their favorite after-market brands (i.e. Ohlins, Penske). It's not worth it to put the best suspension on the R1 if the buyers are going to replace them anyway. It's difficult to make everyone happy in a mass-market. :)

This is for Rick25 & R1_Dave
I just read your suggestions & I'm asking myself just how hard do you guys ride??? My R1 Y2k bought new has 5500km and came with factory setup ie:
Fork preload 6th line; Fork comp 5 clicks out: Fork rebound 5 clicks out; Shock preload 4th pos. from soft:
Shock comp 9 clicks out; Shock rebound 7 clicks out.
Now here's a suggestion& comment by Beppe Andreani one of Italys top suspension technicians & importer of White Power suspensions in Nov 2001 issue of IN MOTO
for 2000/2001 R1----- With standard settings, the bike is precise & stable on the straight & agile in direction change but when braking very hard, the front end dives too much & too fast causing an excessive weight transfer to the front & subsequentialy unloads the rear end, causing it to weave. The front end then tends to almost bounce up when you leave the brakes and throw it into the bend. Once in the bend, the R1 behaves pretty well, but when you get back on the gas,
the rear shock compresses too much & too quickly which in turn doesn't return to its normal position quickly enough provocking an abnormal increase in trail thus making the R1 tend to run wide out of corners.
This behaviour is more apparent on the track than on the road unless you're REALLY PUSHING it.
The first thing to do is to stop that excessive & fast front end dive & limit the weight transfer to the front end, partially responsible for the rear end dancing, also caused by too much rebound damping which impedes the shock to extend quickly enough and the rear wheel in keeping sufficient contact with the road. Solution: Fork preload 5th pos; Fork comp. 1 click out . To eliminate that bouncy feeling when you leave the brakes & that sensation of lightness of the front end, completely close fork rebound damping. To eliminate rear end squat and excessive rebound damping, culprits of the R1 running wide out of bends, close completely shock compression damping and set rebound damping 9 clicks out with spring preload at 6th position. Finally to quicken direction change, pull the forks out 3mm.
(For approx 80kg rider) For details on this set up behaviour email me

That was a very interesting post...everything the italian guy said made sense, but it's the totally opposite from what I've been hearing. It actually made so much sense I'm going to readjust my suspension to try it. Since I weigh 200lbs, I wonder what chages I'll have to make.

:machinegu here is one more for track days :machinegu

El Duca,

Your description of the R1's bad habits is spot on. It is confirmed by riders world wide.

It is also true, settings are a very personal thing and a common starting point is a big help.

When Yamaha said that the R1 had no compromise they were not being completely honest. As the R1's suspension is compromised, simply because bike manufactures must set a happy medium so that anyone can get on the bike and ride it at speed. Needing to be good enough so riders of all shapes, sizes and styles can ride the bike.

This is where the R1 is letting some riders down, due to rider weight. The R1 is set up by a little Japanese rider weighing about 65kg.

So when someone that weighs, lets say 90kg (Like Me), the bike is now under sprung for that rider and standard settings will no longer work well enough.

When a bike is under sprung for a rider the bad habits you explained in your post are exaggerated more so due to greater weight transfer front to rear ( on the gas) and visa versa (when on the breaks).

A rider should change the springs to suit rider weight, so that suspension settings can be dialled in correctly (front and rear springs).

Problem with the R1 is that the rear shock leaks nitrogen through the compression stroke, so re-springing the unit is not enough. There are fixes for the unit but still no ride height adjuster and suction is not the best. So in many cases the rear shock is replaced.

The front shocks are dam good though, standard. New springs, oil and a revalve if your rely fussy.

Lets face it though lots of us are on a budget, myself included. So until I can buy new springs to prevent front end dive and a new shock with a good compression ratio, to prevent rear end squat. Compromised suspension with compromised settings will have to do.

Your settings are probably OK for the track for a light rider, but even racers raise the rear by 25mm and lower the front by 10mm. Very extreme and twitchy.

For the road though the settings you described will not allow for corrugations in the road surface (bumps). The front would be nervus due to the hard compression setting (not very forgiving). I think you will find the front will shake its head at times. Try going over a crest under power (shake shake). Try setting the front preload to the 4th position and sliding the forks through a little more. For every position up on the forks you need about 1mm through the triple clamps. Leave the rebound and compression standard for starters. This will also feel good under breaks but still allow the suspension to work over bumps.

The rear needs to be raised to improve turn in (preload set 1 off maximum) and compression raised (set at about 3 clicks out from max) to help stop the rear from squatting. This works well, set the rebound to your liking.

The preload setting you described would not raise the rear to help the turn in. You could use this setting and try a 180 rear tyre, this might work well.

The rear compression you described again good on a flat track but to harsh for road use.

Please do not think I am bashing your settings, its just I think these settings have no compromise in mind when it comes to road surface.

Its good to talk to other people about things like suspension, because there is always something new to learn. I'll try your settings and let you know what I think after a Run through the Adelaide Hills.


As for how hard do I ride. This is some thing that is hard to measure unless lapping times at the track, But my 190 Dunlop is blue in colour on the edges and the lean has run the wear marks of the edge of the tyre on both sides. Its feathering just nicely, not balling up as this tells you your tyre is doing all the work not you suspension.

HAVE FUN GUYS AND GALS..............:D

Dave, Brian & all R1 riders,
Sorry about the late reply. I just want to point out a few things. The settings I gave were NOT mine, they were given by Beppe Andreani www.andreanigroup.com but that doesn't mean his settings are correct for everyone.
I tried his settings and varied them like this.
Fork preload 5th line from top flush w/hex nut
Fork comp. 1 click out from screwed in
Fork rebound 1 click out " " "
Shock preload 7th pos. (9th is hardest)
Shock comp. 1 click out fom screwed in
Shock rebound 9 clicks out from screwd in
Tires MetzelerRennsport road compound 120/70 190/50
Tire pressure for road 36 psi front and rear
I weigh 176lbs with riding gear
Your correct when you say these settings will not allow for corrugations in the road surface (bumps). The front IS nervous, the head DOES shake its head at times, yes , youre going to feel every imperfection in road surface there is, but lets face it, when you go out for a ride, you know your itinerary and road surface conditions very well and if your ride lasts, say 100 miles, you know where you can really push it and where you can't, so what are you going to set your suspension up for? The fast wide open throttle sections, or the take it easy bumpy/pot holed/ruined asphalt sections.
Choose, because you cannot set up your bike to perform in both conditions. Anything else is just a compromise, and the R1 IS a no compromise bike.
I disagree when you say Yamaha were not completely honest when they said the R1 was no compromise because of the suspension. No bike in the world comes out of the factory with suspension set up for its rider. Springs, damping, ride height, are subjective to many factors; rider weight, riding style, personal sensations, load (girlfriend/wife), road conditions. etc, etc,. Even the Honda NSR 500V they sold you hasn't got the right suspension for YOU. And nobody would dare to say the NSR 500V isn't no compromise.
Your settings Dave, are fine for you and most definitely for many other riders, just like Andreani's are fine for me and many others because settings are a subjective issue, but I firmly beleive one must start when beginning modifications, by using suggestions given by experts according to what results those modifications are intended to give you. They will be at most, a good starting point but you'll nearly always find yourself modifiying something here or there but only VERY SLIGHTLY. Another example is tires. Can I convince a fellow rider who's using Dunlops or Bridgestones or anything else, that my Rennsports with their patented 0 degree steel belt tire is reputedly the best (along with Pirelli supercorsa) dry weather tire for the R1? Certainly not ! But if I take him to Misano and lap 1' 44".2 or 2'.00" at Monza, if he's a speed freak he'll beleive me, but if just wants to potter around on his R1, complaining about the stiff ride and the bumps and the head shaking, he wouldn't care less!
So you see its all down to what YOU WANT to do and what YOU CAN do that really counts.
Conclusively, Andreanis SUGGESTED settings are for the NO COMPROMISE, to hell with the bumps, head shake (you'll always have head shake when you're pushing it to the limit), ALL OUT canyon racers.
Lap times on various circuits prove this with exception of the ONE click here or there.
Cheers and have fun,
El Duca

Rocktboy,
Are your sure those standard settings are correct? My R1 manual (original & printed in japan) which came with the bike & my Haynes manual code #
3754 says on pages 6.15 & 6.16 that these are standard settings
Fork preload 6th line just visible above top bolt hex
Fork Comp. 5 clicks out
Fork Reb. 5 clicks out

Shock spring preload Pos 4 (1 is softest - 9 is hardest)
Shock Comp. 9 clicks out
Shock Reb. 7 clicks out
cheers, El Duca

El Duca,

Sorry if I have upset you, my comments were just my opinoin only.;)

Just wondering, did you lower the front of the bike (raise the forks through the tripples) to compensate for the increase in front preload adjustment, or is the fork hieght fine for you standard?

Rennsports are cool tyres, a bloke at work has a set on his blue 99 R1. Speaks verry highly of them.

The NSR500 V comes with a complete race kit, the R1 is no NSR. But I understand what your getting at.

Setting suspension is a personal thing, you are correct. You like riding fast on the track and on smooth public roads. When I go for a ride through the hills, I like getting from point 'A' too point 'B' as fast as possible, regardless of road conditions.

Thats what I ment when the suspention had to be compremised.

The time I loose on smooth surfaces is minimal. But when riding with friends with harder settings, I kick there asses from town too town. If you like to go fast only when the road suits your settings thats also OK.

But I like to go fast most of the time on the weekend, so I set up my suspension to suit the road.

In real world terms wich do you think is more pratical for fast riding?:D

Dave,
You didn't upset me,
I haven't lowered the front yet, I hope to this week and
I'll let you know the results.
Now as for riding fast, who mentioned smooth roads?
There are no smooth roads where I live, just decent
stretches alternating with real bad stretches. My set up
is for getting from A to B as fast as possible, but you can
hardly call an R1 with factory susp. components dialled full in, hard!
A stock R1 with settings dialled in hard is crap for the
track, and totally inadequate for the street. David Jefferies Isle of Man TT Production R1 as all other TT production R1s are fitted with Ohlins or other top brand shocks, and the I.O.M. is NOT a track but street, full of holes, bumps and every irregularity you can immagine. Now the Ohlins setup according to CMC racing who tuned the bike, is much stiffer than any setting you'll get with the stock shock so that proves that if you want to go faster you've got to go harder on the settings. Another fact; a bike correctly set up for the I.O.M., with the same rider is also correctly set up for flat out riding on 99.9% of fast twisting roads.
A point I'd like to make is that the standard rear shock, even
once you've made sure its in tip top condition, (the oil
inside emulsifies sooner than you think, milage varies
greatly; nitrogen pressure, seals, etc.,) with the compression dialled fully in, is universally acknowleged
as being inadequate for fast riding because the rear still
squats too much, upseting the frame geometry and thus abnormaly increasing the trail value (static 92mm),
and that in the real world means UNDERSTEER (the bike steers wide when you open the throttle coming out of bends). I'm not talking about track racers but street racers. Over here 9 guys out of 10 throw away the standard shock for this very reason. Oversteer=partialize throttle=go slower=you're getting
left behind. Its a fact. You cant get away from it.
There's no way a softer setting is going to make up time on the bumps. The time you lose on the smooth is
much much more. If you whack your friends then its due
to other factors; your a better rider, or you risk more, or
maybe they have too much rebound damping. You'd be
surprised how many guys over here tend to CLOSE rebound damping from standard 7 clicks out to 5,4,3 or even 2 out. I once tried 5 clicks out. Wow! I nearly killed myself . Beppe said it was too much and the rear wheel wasn't copying the road surface. I went to 9 clicks out.
He said if it wallows at 9 clks. out, the shock oil is no good, change it.
Sunday 03/12
I varied Beppe's fork rebound setting from fully screwed
in to 2 clicks out. Now tracks better on the rough.
Try these settings and let me know,
Cheers, El Duca

R1_Dave,

You were asking about the BT-010s earlier.

I will be getting a set of BT-010s put on later this week. I'll run them on my stock settings for a day or so so I can get an apples to apples test against the 207s.

Then I'm going to try your suspension changes. I'll let you know what I think.

Thanks guys, this is a great post. I can't wait to try the setup.

KC

You'll love the BT-010's on the road. Hope you got a 180 rear

I agree this is a good post with lots of valid information from many people. Thanks to everyone.

Its good to contribute to other peoples knollage on a topic so many people are intrested in. I have tride new things becuase of verious post and learn't new things in the prosess.

This is truely a cool forum..................

sorry forgot to add,

Cant wait to find out about the Bt-010. Let me know how you went KublaCalm.:D

You'll love the BT-010's on the road. Hope you got a 180 rear

No Droog, I stuck with the 190. Maybe I'll try the 180 in a couple of months.

What do you find to be the advantages of the 180?

Hi, Dave what’s up
I have been busy but I’m back.
I’m going to lower the bike 5mm in the front like you recommended, just to see what it does.
I think we have pretty mush the same settings so far, I will get back to you tomorrow w/a final conclusion of my settings for the 2001 R1.
:D

What do you find to be the advantages of the 180?

My bad. I'll look throught the old mesages.

No Droog, I stuck with the 190. Maybe I'll try the 180 in a couple of months.

What do you find to be the advantages of the 180?

Quicker turn in, and more grip once leaned over because the contact patch is more of a square instead of a rectangle. The cheapest way to improve the handling on your R-1 (other than setting the suspension up properly)

hey guys great post..the best one i've seen so far..before i started reading this forums i'd say i knew very little to compare what i know now, i've read tons of 98-01 R1 suspension good and bad sides and what does what .....thnx alot im currently driving around in my car to go find some nice smooth and bumpy twisties for as my lil suspension set up track:D

keep up a good work comrads....:rock :rock

I raised the forks 3mm as suggested by Top tech. man
Beppe Andreani.
Steering is now much more responsive, it flicks left/right/
left/right quicker and with less effort. There's no loss in
stability or at least not up to 120mph leaned well over on medium cond. road.
I know some guys are using 5, even 10mm of drop but if
Andreani says 3mm , I guess that must be the best
compromise figure for a stock bike.
If any of you guys try sliding up the forks, let us know
your impressions. Please give values of lift and what shocks/ make / settings you use.
Cheers to all,
El Duca

How exactly are you guys raising and lowering your forks? Are you doing it alone, with a buddy or using some kind of lift? Is it something I can easily do by myself?

I have this nightmare in my mind of loosening the allen screws and watching the front end slide down the forks to the wheel. :confused: I'm sure I'm wrong about that, but I would like a little more detail before I go for it.

Droog,

I've looked through all the posts about the 180. I cancelled my order for the 190 and I'm getting a 180 instead.

Thanks,
KC

Put your bike up on the rear stand, and loosen the 4 bolts (2 on the lower triple clamp, 1 on the upper an 1 on the clip-on) on 1 side ONLY. The suspension will push the shock up through the clamps, if it comes up too far push it back down with your hand, measure and tighten. When that side is done, repeat the process for the other side. Don't loosen both sides at once or you will need some method of lifting the front of your bike.

Thanks stalin, that makes sense.

KC

I went with R1_Dave's exact setup: Forks lowered 5mm, etc... I weigh about 185-190 lbs.

My BT-010s are still en route from California so I haven't tried them yet. All I can say so far though is, "Holy cow!" I could tell a huge difference as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. Awesome!

Thanks again for the great posts everyone! I'llst on this again once I get the tires on.

KC

Originally posted by R1_Dave

Don't you find the rear end a little soft under power. I mean under power the R1 tends to squat, raising the front and upsetting the balance of the bike. This is aparently why the R1 gose wide at the apex of a corner at speed.

That is certainly the consensus on the R1. I'm 165 pounds suited up. The solution is to get an adjustable length shock and stiffer springs at both ends (.90 front, 8.5 rear). On my '99, I raised the rear ride height 8mm, and dropped the front 8mm (8mm of fork tube above the triple clamp). Static sag (with the rider on the bike) is 28mm rear and 33mm front. I have an Ohlins shock with the hydraulic preload adjuster (model 46PRCLS I think), but if I had to do it again, I'd get a Penske from Max at Traxxion Dynamics ( http://www.traxxion.com ). He installs the right spring for your weight and intended usage, and revalves the shock. Max is at most of the AMA pro races in the US and is a magician with damping. I had him do both ends, and it transformed the bike. Even knee down at 70mph and the with the front starting to chatter over bumps, I was able to dial in a bit more throttle and reel it back in - extremely forgiving handling. Slides at either end happen in a slow and controlled manner – at least with 010’s on the rims.

You've got to raise the back and drop the front to get it to turn in the first place and then to hold the line. The stiffer rear spring eliminates excessive squat under power, and the stiffer front reduces braking dive as well as complementing the rear spring. My set up is perfectly neutral - it'll do anything you ask, and provide loads of feedback from both ends. Well worth the roughly $2000 it will cost. Forget the Akro until you do the suspension. You'll enjoy the bike much more and be able to use the power it already has.

Dave J

Originally posted by Brian0128
... If you go to the Race Tech website... it even tells you which springs for your forks to go with ...

In my experience, Race Tech recommends springs that are too soft, and their damping curve is not optimal. I've run their spring rates front and rear, and their full Gold Valve kit in the forks. Then I sent everything to Traxxion, and the difference was night and day. There is no comparison. Max is the one who is at the track all the time. He knows what works.

Dave J

Rick25,

Good to see your back, where have you been man.:D

KublaCalm,

I'm glade you like the setup, could you please let me know what the bt-010's are like, I'm currently thinking of getting a set. Also a ride hieght adjusting link for the back shock is on the cards.;)

DaveJ,

Sounds like you have a great setup, I'm stuck with the standard stuff for now. Cant afford the $2000 just yet, as I'm still establishing my new house.

R1 dave:

I went from the stock 190 D207 to the 180 BT010 on the rear and a BT010 on the front.

I noticed a big improvement in confidence with the front when fully cranked over. Turn 2 at Eastern Creek is a 180 degree left hander. With the 207 the front felt like it wanted to push out, I always thought it might slide sideways on me. The BT010 never feels like this. I can also lean the front tyre right over to its very edge, with the 207 the wear mark was always a mil or 2 off the very edge. I don't know if this is because I can lean further with the Bridgestone or just because their profiles might be different.

Also the rear BT010 wears very well. My rear is fairly stuffed now, but it's done over 10,000km. That includes one trackday (in fairly cool weather) and half a dozen small burnouts. (and no, I don't ride like a big girl).

my next tyre will be another BT010.

Well, This is my setup for now and I like it. I weigh 195lb.

Front:
--------
Lowered: 5mm
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 5 lines showing
Tire pressure 34psi


Back:
-------
Compression 2 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 1 step less (thats pos. 8 out of 9)
Tire pressure 36 psi

I have Michelin Pilot Sport.
I’m in South Florida, everyone that seriously runs in the street use the Michelin Pilot Sport.
Even Hayabusas doing 200 + have this tires on.
They are 100 times better than the stock tires.
:D

Twodogs,

10,000 km man that is good value for money.....
And to be able to ride like that at Eastern Creek, they sound cool. I'm going to get a set for sure, thanks alot.

:D

markeddy,

You wanted to know what my final settings were. Well the last settings Ive been using are:

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 8 out of 9
Comp. : 3 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 38psi - 42psi

Front:

Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 34psi - 36 psi

Raise the forks through the triple clamps 5mm, mesured from the top clamp to the top face of the silver cap on the gold fork tube.

Apart from this the front is set to standard settings, for now. Theres always room for improvment....

I am going to try the following:

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 2 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.


Front:

Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out

Raise the forks through the triple clamps 7mm.

Reason is the rear pre-load at pos.8 might be a little much, but when at pos.7 ride hieght is reduced. So I have lowered the front by another 2mm to compensate. This should result in the same geometry setting with a slightly softer rear spring for better tracktion. I had no groung clearence problems so losing anoth 2mm shouldnt be a problem.

I havnt tryed it out yet as I injured my self at work. Musculer Strains through the back and so on. So it might be a bit before I can test the settings.

But hey feel free to do so and let me know what you think.

If that works out all OK then try changing the front pre-load to the 5th line showing, and see what effect it has on front end dive under brakes.

Talk to you soon:thumbup

Basic terms and functions:

Static Sag:
This is the amount of movment in the suspension when the bike is lifted, taking the wieght of the suspension revealing how much suspension is used up by the bikes own wieght.


Loaded Sag or Sag:
This is the same thing as above, but with a rider on board the bike in riding gear (Boots, gloves, helmet, lethers, ect... this is importaint). Determines the amount of suspension used up by rider. This is the importaint one to everyone.


Pre-Load:
The amount of tension on a spring. This is how the sag is adjusted. The more preload (the hiegher the preload setting), the less sag. Most suspension people say the front should be between 20mm - 30mm and the rear 5mm - 10mm. Just remember as the preload will also have an efect on the ride hieght of the front and rear, affecting the steering geometry of the bike. Sag is basicly a way of messuring the geomety setting of the bike. (also dropping the front, by raising the forks through the clamps also has an effect on the geometry and front ride hieght. To be taken into account when increasing front preload for a quick steering bike as increasing front preload allowne will slow the turning of a bike).


Compression:
The rate or how quickly the suspension will compress under load ( bumps, breaking, that sort of thing). The higher the setting the slower it will compress ( more resistance).


Rebound:
The rate in wich the suspension will return to its "normal" state (that is once the suspension has compressed, how quickly it will return or "rebound" to its uncompressed state). The more rebound (the hiegher the setting) you add the slower the return and the firmer the ride. This will sometimes confuse people as the rebound is basicly how quikly the suspension recovers from a bump. If the setting (at the rear for example) is to hiegh the the suspension dose not recover in time for the next bump, giving less suspension travel in turn giving a harder ride. Sometimes even upsetting the ballance of the bike mid corner. At the front to much rebound gives a vauge, lack of grip feeling. Rebound is where many people become unstuck not compression.


Fork Hieght:
How much of the fork that is exposed above the top fork clamp. The distance is messured from the top of the clamp too the top of the fork cap. Thats the silver bit on top of the gold fork leg. (about 1mm thick of silver cap on the gold fork leg on the R1).


Overall geometry on the R1:

1.The R1 has a problem turning into corners, raise the forks 5mm through the clamps to help there.

2.Raise the rear preload to help with turn in also, and to help match your wieght. somewere between 7- 9. Try never to max out any setting if possible.

3.Rear rebound start at 5 clicks out and go from there.

4. Rear compression should be set at 3 clicks out as a starting point. This is to help minimize the rear end squat under power. Rear end squat will make you steer wide mid corner under power and wheel stand way to easy when trying to get power down of the line.

5.The front end is quite good on standard settings, but if you find it dives to much at the front, increase the preload and rase the forks another 1 - 2 mm.

I hope all this is of some help to you. Just remember to always write down your settings and to change 1 thing at a time. determine wether the change is of benefet and go from there.

Suspension setup is a about learing what the changes do to the bike. So you know what the bike is like to ride stanard, good. Lower the front 5mm then head for the hills. Make the changes listed above one at a time learn what each change dose. once you have made the changes play with the settings one at a time. Go from one extreem to another (soft too hard) learn the differances, but always come to a decision as to wich setting is good for you before playing with the next one.

Have FUN All....:thumbup

Sorry I took so long to get back to this.

I got the BT-10s put on and went up to the mountains this weekend. Between the suspension changes and the new tires with 180 rear, it feels like a new bike. I can't believe how much better it is.

I never once felt like the bike was anything but rock-solid all day in some serious decreasing-radius switchbacks. Before, it used to feel like the back tire was going to slide out from under me.

Thanks guys! I'm in love with my R1 all over again.:rock

Cant wait to get my set, still got about 500 km of life in the rear tyre (oem D207). But the Bt -010's are the go.

:thumbup

Hi, R1Dave,
I think when you throw away those D207s,
you'll fall in love with your R1 again, if you put on a pair of Rennsports or BT010s. According to all the street racers over here, its harder to set up an R1 with D207s
especially the front because with D207s the front is more nervous.
With Rennsports (street compound!) the fronts patented 0° steel belt design is acknowledged by all to have a kind of stabilzing effect minimizing headshake or at least moving the point of where it starts to shake to higher speeds.
By the way, I think your settings are ok, but
5 CLICKS out on rear rebound?????? Are you sure the
oil is OK in the shock?? In our previous conversations,
I thought I was the guy who had too hard a set up.
A week after I got the bike I went from 7 clicks standard
rear to 5 clicks & it was TERRIBLE on the bumps.
Even the testers of SUPERWHEELS magazine
when they tested the bike at Valencia racetrack in Spain
went back to 7 clicks out after riding it at 5 clicks & they
were on a race track! So imagine what will happen on the street!
I believe for road use you should be between
7 to 9 clicks out on rebound. If the rear wobbles, then
you've got a problem with the shock oil.
I remember Max McAllister at Traxxion telling
me the oil should be changed once a year, but with stock shocks, the oil doesn't usually last that long.
Cheers to all for now.

P.S. I'll be getting a Penske 8760 with triple adjuster
and spring for my weght. You wouldnt believe the
difference the high/low speed compression damping makes to handling & its got a height adjuster too.

It was my understanding that the settings first referred to were for a 99 model? The settings you mention are they for the 2000 model onwards and if so would they be the same for a 99 model?

First post for a great forum!

:hellobye

El Duca,

Hey could you let me know what the Penske is like once fitted. I hear there full on. I'll try changing the rebound to 7clicks out and see.......:thumbup

Bensonuk,

Which settings are you reffuring to. My settings are on a 2001, but there is no reason they wont work on a 98 -99 model. The main difference between the two main models in the suspension department is the 98 -99 has liner front springs in the forks and the 00 -01 has progressive springs. Liner springs give a constant spring rate through its compressing, while the progressive springs are softer when first compressing and get harder towards the end of the spring.:)

Think i will stick with the original post settings as I weigh a tiny 120 lbs. But I do notice that the bike tends to dive when hard on the front brake and squat when I twist the throttle. But my settings are stock right now..I'll give the new settings a go and see how it feels then.

Originally posted by R1_Dave
El Duca,

Hey could you let me know what the Penske is like once fitted. I hear there full on. I'll try changing the rebound to 7clicks out and see.......:thumbup

Bensonuk,

Which settings are you reffuring to. My settings are on a 2001, but there is no reason they wont work on a 98 -99 model. The main difference between the two main models in the suspension department is the 98 -99 has liner front springs in the forks and the 00 -01 has progressive springs. Liner springs give a constant spring rate through its compressing, while the progressive springs are softer when first compressing and get harder towards the end of the spring.:)


dave what is the best setting for a 85kg rider i"ve drop the front forks 5mm, but there is so many set up on this page i dont no what one to try,just like to have the one you use m8...........cheers

The settings first mentioned at the beginning of the thread seemed to be the settings from performance bikes for the 99 model. I am sure they published new settings for the 2000 onwards bike which were different?

Having got my bike with 2000 miles on the clock i have never checked the settings as the current set up seems great. For the purposes of research i will check the current settings and post them.

Today was my first day with braided hoses and dunlop 207RR tyres. The hoses do not seem to make any difference, is this normal or do i need to bleed them again? The tyres are great and after a few more trips i will give them a bit more stick to see how they respond

Thanks for the reply:beer

R1-IAN,

You wanted to know what my final settings were. Well the last settings Ive been using are:

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 8 out of 9
Comp. : 3 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 38psi - 42psi

Front:

Raise Forks: 5mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 34psi - 36 psi


These settings work really well, you may need to adjust the rear rebound down 1 or 2 clicks as you are lighter, no more than 7 clicks out. You want a firm ride but not to be pushed out of the seat over bumps, so if this happens adjust the rear rebound out an extra click or two and test it again.

After that, if you like, try this. This is the next lot of settings im going to try, once I get a chance. Blody work Injury. :jump

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 2 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.


Front:

Raise Forks: 7mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out

This should result in the same geometry setting with a slightly softer rear spring for better tracktion. I had no ground clearence problems so losing another 2mm shouldnt be a problem.

If all is good though try adjusting the front pre-Load so only 5 lines are showing, and see how much improvement you get under braking. I dont recomend going any further tahan this though.

Please try them both and let me know what you think...:thumbup




Bensonuk,

Try the settings above if you like, Ive got a 2001, but theres verry little differance between the 98-99 and 00-01.

As for the braided brake lines, they should help in braking power, as they stop expansion in the lines. In turn increase in braking force. Should ask some of the other guys on the forum about this though, maybe post a new thred.:thumbup

Originally posted by R1_Dave
R1-IAN,

You wanted to know what my final settings were. Well the last settings Ive been using are:

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 8 out of 9
Comp. : 3 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 38psi - 42psi

Front:

Raise Forks: 5mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 34psi - 36 psi


Cheers m8 i will try this out on saturday...........













These settings work really well, you may need to adjust the rear rebound down 1 or 2 clicks as you are lighter, no more than 7 clicks out. You want a firm ride but not to be pushed out of the seat over bumps, so if this happens adjust the rear rebound out an extra click or two and test it again.

After that, if you like, try this. This is the next lot of settings im going to try, once I get a chance. Blody work Injury. :jump

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 2 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.


Front:

Raise Forks: 7mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out

This should result in the same geometry setting with a slightly softer rear spring for better tracktion. I had no ground clearence problems so losing another 2mm shouldnt be a problem.

If all is good though try adjusting the front pre-Load so only 5 lines are showing, and see how much improvement you get under braking. I dont recomend going any further tahan this though.

Please try them both and let me know what you think...:thumbup




Bensonuk,

Try the settings above if you like, Ive got a 2001, but theres verry little differance between the 98-99 and 00-01.

As for the braided brake lines, they should help in braking power, as they stop expansion in the lines. In turn increase in braking force. Should ask some of the other guys on the forum about this though, maybe post a new thred.:thumbup :thumbup :thumbup

Well i went with your second setting ,but kept the front fork at 5mm,the bike felt loads better and it turn in so much faster now, and it will keep a tight line where before it would want to go wide.....................


cheers m8.:thumbup :thumbup

Cool Im glad your set now. Have fun..........:D

Ok confusion sets in. Maybe I am reading to much into the settings but I HAVE to ask. The very first post gave settings from a web site. These are the ones I am using except for R1 Daves rear settings which i think will better suit me. BUT...I can't under stand something about how the rear is set exactly because I see it says set 3 clicks out...and then i hear set 3 clicks out from max. The first 3 clicks tells me to turn it ALL the way IN then turn it "out" 3 clicks. But yet later R1 Dave says 3 clicks out from max. This tells me to wind it all the way OUT then turn it back in 3 clicks. WTF is he trying to say here???? Please help!!

aceracer24,

Sorry about all the confusion. You are correct when you say 3 clicks out is screw the adjuster all the way in (clock wise) then out 3 clicks (anti clockwise).

When I say 3 clicks out from max, I mean the same thing, where max is all the way in (clockwise). This is the hardest or maximum setting possible.

The only funny one is the pre load adjuster, where max is 9 and it is also the hardest possible setting.

Rebound front pre load and compression settings have a small number to represent the max setting. Like 1 or 2.

But the rear pre load adjuster is the only one with a hiegh number representing the max setting. Like 8 or 9.

Hope this helps you out........:thumbup

Also repleyed on the other suspension thread to you.

Had a good blast this weekend with a Gixxer 1000...



but my front end seem to be to soft on very hard brakeing........set up is 6 line
comp 5
rebounds 5
on standard seting on a uk bike is comp 4
rebounds 4
6 lines
should i change it too five line showing and put comp 3
rebounds 3
would this make it better under hard brakeing..............


Cheers ian

Yes,

If you are finding under hard braking the bike is diving to much. Increase the front preload one line at a time. Each time you increase the preload the ride hieght increases by about 1mm, so that must be compensated by raising the forks by 1mm through the clamps.

you will find the bike is better mannered under the brakes.Please note that the forks should already be raised by 5mm for better handling. A 1mm there after for every increase in the preload.

Mind you, the trade off is a damper may be required once above 7mm of total fork raised.

:thumbup

Originally posted by R1_Dave
Yes,

If you are finding under hard braking the bike is diving to much. Increase the front preload one line at a time. Each time you increase the preload the ride hieght increases by about 1mm, so that must be compensated by raising the forks by 1mm through the clamps.

you will find the bike is better mannered under the brakes.Please note that the forks should already be raised by 5mm for better handling. A 1mm there after for every increase in the preload.

Mind you, the trade off is a damper may be required once above 7mm of total fork raised.

:thumbup

Cheers Dave, i will try that out this weekend,have already raised the fork by 5mm,will change that to 7mm
got a damper on the bike already. so not to worry about that.i will increase the preload by one line and see how that feel......

Cheers DAVE..... will tell you how it goes on monday:thumbup :thumbup

Ian,
It would be better. The crucial point is the R1 by nature
DIVES on very hard braking & this causes much weight transfer, so you must increase comp. damping.
Now how much depends on many factors (your weight,
riding style, road surface, how much confort you're prepared to sacrifice.
I went to 1 click out on f/comp. 5th line on preload, forks 3mm out from standard, (measured from the vertical section of the gold fork to triple clamp),
1 click out on f/reb.
It was great on the race track & smooth
roads, but on the holes the front wasn't working so I had to compromise. f/comp 2or3 clicks out f/reb 4or5 clicks out, preload 5th line.
Bear in mind this is a mass production fork with very poor stiction qualities. If you don't want to spend a lot of
money on say, Ohlins, try putting new aftermarket internals. You'll notice a BIG difference!
Cheers

Originally posted by El Duca
Ian,
It would be better. The crucial point is the R1 by nature
DIVES on very hard braking & this causes much weight transfer, so you must increase comp. damping.
Now how much depends on many factors (your weight,
riding style, road surface, how much confort you're prepared to sacrifice.
I went to 1 click out on f/comp. 5th line on preload, forks 3mm out from standard, (measured from the vertical section of the gold fork to triple clamp),
1 click out on f/reb.
It was great on the race track & smooth
roads, but on the holes the front wasn't working so I had to compromise. f/comp 2or3 clicks out f/reb 4or5 clicks out, preload 5th line.
Bear in mind this is a mass production fork with very poor stiction qualities. If you don't want to spend a lot of
money on say, Ohlins, try putting new aftermarket internals. You'll notice a BIG difference!
Cheers


Cheers m8, i will try that out this weekend...
:thumbup

Originally posted by El Duca
...Bear in mind this is a mass production fork with very poor stiction qualities. If you don't want to spend a lot of money on say, Ohlins, try putting new aftermarket internals. You'll notice a BIG difference!


The stock R1 fork, especially on the '02, does not have a stiction problem at all. The damping characteristics, however, can be improved. According to Chuck Graves, a revalved and resprung stocker will perform as well as an Ohlins R&T fork. My '99 was rebuilt by Traxxion (as well as the Ohlins in back), and was fantastic at knee down speeds on public roads. I had the full Race Tech treatment prior to Traxxion, and I would never waste my money on them again. Traxxion is that much better, I believe because of proper spring rate selection (Race Tech was too soft) and perfect damping curves.

Dave J

Help...
I don´t understand this static sag thing:confused:
R1_Dave,i took your settings, and tryed them.Big improvement:thumbup
Now,i read that the static sag should be about 30 mm.
No matter what i do to the preload (1-8 lines) my sag is 40-45 mm,and i only weigh 75 kg in full gear.
My bike is a 99´,with only 9000 km on it.
Here´s what i did:I sad on the bike(2 friends holding it)
Then 1 of the dudes pushed the zip tie up to the fork seal.I went off the bike,the 2 frinds lifted the front off the ground,and i meassured form the fork seal to the zip tie..40-45mm.How the hell do i get it down to 30mm.
Here´s another thing.I read in a "sportbike set-up" book that the front sag shoud be about 1/3 off the total travel.Total travel is 135 mm ,sag should then be...45mm.What do u guys think.

Originally posted by Brisse
Help...
...No matter what i do to the preload (1-8 lines) my sag is 40-45 mm...My bike is a 99´,with only 9000 km on it.
...

The '99's had weak spring rates. Put a .90 set up front and an 8.5 in the back.

Dave J

Originally posted by DaveJ


The '99's had weak spring rates. Put a .90 set up front and an 8.5 in the back.

Dave J

Hey DaveJ
What do you mean,i don´t understand?:confused:
Call me stupid...;)

Brisse,

You are correct when you say 40 - 45mm is the best you can do. You are also correct when you say 30mm sag is where you should be around, give or take.

What this means is when you sit on the bike with your mates holding it upright, the cable tie is pushed further than that magic 30mm, even when preload is maxed.

This is why people say that the front forks are under sprung for most riders. As if the spring rate was higher and you were to perform the test again the sag would be less (closer to 30mm).

Basicly the harder the spring the less sag. The softer the spring, more sag.

The R1 was setup by a 65kg rider, in riding gear.

So basicly this is where the R1 is compremised , the suspension. If you want to get serious about setups then you need front and rear springs to suit your wieght so the sag may be set correctly.

Hope this is of some help.:thumbup

Thanks R1_Dave,that i can understand.:fact
I am gonna keep my original suspension,can´t afford to buy new.Besides i only do about 1 track-day a year,rest of the time i tear up puplic roads.:rock
Thanks.

Originally posted by R1_Dave
...So basicly this is where the R1 is compremised , the suspension.


As is virtually any production bike. That's why I modify the suspension first - you'll get the most overall performance improvement since you'll be able to better exploit the stock hp.


If you want to get serious about setups then you need front and rear springs to suit your wieght so the sag may be set correctly...
[/QUOTE]

Springs are the place to start. Sag needs to be set prior to getting the geometry right (I ran 28mm rear, 33mm front). Front and rear ride height affect rake and trail (steering) and swing arm angle (rear traction out of corners). The spring values I quoted are those that Traxxion installed on my bike. A pair of .90 fronts control brake dive. An 8.5 in back minimizes squat when on the gas. Together, they are the start of a stable, predictable platform that doesn't pitch forward or back when on the brakes or gas. The chassis remains level, while the wheels absorb the bumps, allowing consistent response to your control inputs. Spring rates are based on rider weight, but are refined when considering intended usage - firmer the faster you are or the smoother the roads/track (softer in the rain if you're setting up at the track).

But spring rates are not where wheel control comes from. Damping is. And the click range you adjust merely moves the damping curve slightly up or down the scale, it doesn't change it's inherent characteristics. That's why you pay Max to rebuild your shock and forks. He's got it figured out based on actual track performance and rider feedback (and probably graphs from a shock dyno). He remaps the curves. A properly damped wheel remains in contact with the road better than a stocker, with less suspension movement, again providing that all important stable platform.

The difference between stock and Traxxion is night and day. Control takes a quantum leap, confidence skyrockets, you ride faster as well as safer. There is no substitute for rider skill - you've still got to exploit a good suspension. If you're not getting over to or close to the edge of the front tire, it might be a waste of your money. But if you are smooth and don't get lost in the middle of corners (you have a plan and execute it), it's the best thing you can do to your bike.

Dave J

No arguments here........................

I totaly agree the suspension is the first mod to look at before pipes, dampers ect......

Just wondering the changed spring rate at the back shock, was that the standard shock or an after market one, like an ohlins or something?

:thumbup

alots of information......but i have a few questions

k Im 5,9 or 5,11 and 137 lbs suited
bike 98 R1 with stock springs front and rear

i ride not as hard as racers but harder and faster than newbies

and the question is: should i change my springs or not??

130lb=60kg so im about 66-67kg's suited

and second question is what static sag suppose to be??
front=?? rear=??

and sag when im on the bike with my buddies holding me up right: front=?? rear=??

thnx in advance

R1Madness,


Man I wish I wieghed 66-67kg suited. The bikes springs should be fine. But you can still change them if you like to progressive springs or fit firmer linier springs if riding hard (mostly track use).

I noticed your front forks are re-valved (description at the bottom of your post). Thats a bonus, also when you re-valved the forks did you put the same weight oil in the forks? The reason I ask is because if a heavyer wieghted oil is put in this will also give a firmer ride and less dive. Air gap can be played with also.

Hey about the sag, most tuners say 20-30mm at the front, and 5-10mm at the back end. But mind you if you have the standard shock the preload needs to be cranked up to help turn in.

You know lots of people seem to worry lots about sag. Sag is a way of making sure the optimum suspension travel is available to the rider.

Its just a way of saying a rider should have 'X' amount of suspension travel. Depending on the wieght of a rider on the same bike the travel of the suspension will be less with a heavyer rider and more travel with a lighter rider. Preload is adjusted acordingly, increased with the heavyer rider to increase the suspension travel required and decreased for the lighter rider.

Sometimes if the springs are to soft for a heavyer rider the preload will not be able to adjust the suspension for optimum travel to much sag or not enough travel, its the same thing.

Again if a rider is to light for a heavy rated spring the rider will not be able to adjust the preload to reach the optimum sag or suspension travel (same thing), as the sag will be to little. This makes it hard for the suspension to work correctly for you as it will not compress properly.

As you can see the springs determine the adjustable range for the preload based on a riders wieght.

There is always some compremise in standard suspension.

Hope all this raving helps you determine weather the standard springs are ok or not.:thumbup

R1_Dave thnx a lot.

Now i know that stock springs are good for me and i should have no probs setting up a proper sag for me. About fork oil: the oil was diff than stock, not sure about brand but it's like $20+ CA a bottle which contains about half a litre. The rear shock will be revalved with race tech guys stuff as well, to match front forks. By the way Im keeping my stock rear spring as well. I think those mods will be good enough for the street and few track days. And im also fitting a tail lifter which will bring it up 25 mml=1 inch and raising my forks through the clamps 5 mml. After all that is done im out to canyons for a week or so.

Hopefully full OHLINS suspension by next summer.

thnx again, i'll post my thoughts and settings after im done. BTW set of BT - 010 is on already with 180/55 rear.

well later mates

R1Madness,

Hey the tail lifter, is that like a new suspension linkage?

Is it adjustable or not ?

How much $?:thumbup

[QUOTE]Originally posted by R1_Dave
...Just wondering the changed spring rate at the back shock, was that the standard shock or an after market one, like an ohlins or something?

Yes, an Ohlins 46PCRLS (or PRCLS, I never get the letters right). The 8.5 spring is what the bike needs as a minimum, regardless of shock brand, to control squat. If you weigh more than me (165-170 suited up), you might need a stiffer rate. I'd ask Max. Had I known about Traxxion prior to buying the Ohlins, I'd have purchased a Penske instead. It wouldn't have been an advantage at my level on the street, but Max distributes them and parts are domestic for me in the US.

Dave J

[QUOTE]Originally posted by R1Madness
... And im also fitting a tail lifter which will bring it up 25 mml=1 inch and raising my forks through the clamps 5 mml.

If you're talking about an adjustable or non-stock length dogbone, remember that 25mm increased rear ride height is a hell of alot, and will make the bike very twitchy. I was +8mm rear, -8mm front to achieve a neutral ride. I got to those numbers by riding the bike, and noting what it did wrong over the course of several hundred miles - runs wide out of corners on the gas, stands up on the brakes midcorner, doesn't want to turn in, etc. Then I changed one end at a time by 2 or 3mm and rode another few hundred miles. Do it incrementally, and you'll know when you've passed the sweet spot. Then go back to that setting. 25mm is huge, man.

Dave J

Hey guys

Hey Dave yes it's aftermarket and it's not adjustable
heres a web site where u can get it:

http://www.whaccessories.com/Yamaha%20R1.htm

k later guys

K Dave..i'll try to raise rear 10 mml first and go from there ....

thank u

25mm is a bit much for the streets. 10mm sounds good. Let me know what you think of the changes you have made.

:thumbup

The roads here are really bad...anybody has hints on setting up the suspension for bad roads (bumps, potholes, etc.)?

I've raised the forks 13mm (don't ask) and that is all fine (except for the increased rate of tankslappers which comes with the trick).
But now I want to see if I can adjust the front and rear shocks to find it more suitable for these type of roads.

Anyone know if an 02 suspension is identical to earlier
models? If not, have you seen suggested settings "street/track" for the updated model?

Theyre not the same. I was wondering the same thing. Apparently not as many people own the 02's. I have asked this question before with minimal response.

I have a 02 also. I weigh 150lbs. I haven't play around with the suspension yet but I'll post some result once I have time to do so. Any input is welcome.

I want to thank all of you who have contributed to this awesome thread, specially Dave and El Duca. I ended up using both your setups, I use Daves on the street, and El Ducas at the track. The bike is more responsive and accordingly, I feal more confident when I ride. I changed my set up little by little at the track following Beppe Andreani's(El Duca) advice and I improved my lap times drastically throughout the day. I left these adjustments for a while, but the bike was not forgiving at all when running through surface imperfections, so I went back to Daves set up. Anyway, thanks:finger
I have been saving for an undertail, that is going to have to wait 'cause my next thing is going to be suspension related. But I can only get one at a time (or modify one at a time) which one should I do first, the front of the rear?

:thumbup

Vega,

Thanks man. Glad you like the settings. Hey about the mods, I would do the rear first. Then springs at the front for sure.:thumbup

Hey Guys & Gals

Back on the bike again. After work injury.

If you liked my last set of settings, your going to love these:

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 2 Clicks out from all the way in.
Rebound: 4 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 38psi - 41psi

Front:

Raise Forks: 7mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 6th line.
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 34psi - 36 psi

Man these settings make a huge difference to the bike. It still turns in fast to corners but its also more netrual feeling than before and more stable to.

Try it and let me know what you think.........:thumbup

I'm 220lbs.
Front: 3 lines showing.
Comp: 2 clicks out
Reb: 5 clicks out

Rear: 9 out of 9 (hardest)
Comp: 5 clicks out
Reb: 6 clicks out

That's it. i think I've found my sweet spot cause the bike feels VERY stable at high speeds and corners well to. What a BIG difference suspension makes!
I think I'm gonna start lowering the front for faster turnin'. Say - 3mm or so.

Originally posted by R1_Dave

>Rear Tyre Psi: 38psi - 41psi

>Front Tyre Psi: 34psi - 36 psi


R1_Dave,

With radials, the usual recommendation is to run lower pressures in the rear. On new, cold (in the garage overnight) BT 010's, I had 33 rear, 36 front. As the tires wore down, pressures were reduced to 31r/34f - less tread thickness makes the tires run cooler.

The lower pressures not only give you more traction, but better bump absorption as well, especially when you're leaned over.

Dave J

DaveJ,

What about tyre wear, dose the lower pressures affect the endurance performance of the tyre? Ididnt know the less tred the cooler the tyre. Verry handy to know, thanks.........:thumbup


Steve89GTA,

Man thats a stiff front setup. It would be the best under brakes. With the preload adjusted to line 3 youve increased the front ride hieght by 3mm. Try lowering the front by 5mm as a starting point (Raise the forks).

Also go to position 8 out of 9 on the rear spring preload. It is a better option, as this way the rear shock shaft is not maxed out, giving better shock performance. As a rule of thumb no setting should be maxed. Any way you will get better tracktion with the lower setting. Your wirght factor may come into play though. Buy stiffer springs if you can afford to, this would help youre setup heaps mate. Good luck............

Please let me know what you think...........:thumbup

Thanks for the input Dave,

I'm 100% happy with the front right now. Feels very planted over bumps and ESPECIALLY in the corners and even high speed. The bike doesn't 'flick' like it used to though - transitions- so I'll try raising the forks 5mm tomorrow and see how it goes. The back tends to bounce me outta my seat over bumps BUT, I like the tradoff of how it feels in the corners under accelerating out of the turn. I think I may go one more out on the compression on the rear though.
I'm finally getting the bike to where it feels great all over. Just a mater of a click or two here or there to get it as close to perfect as possible.

S

Steve89GTA,

I know this is going to sound crazy but dont go out on the comp. at the rear. Your settings at the back are :

Rear: 9 out of 9 (hardest)
Comp: 5 clicks out
Reb: 6 clicks out


Try this in its place, once the forks are raised 5mm:

Rear: 8 out of 9 (hardest)
Comp: 2 clicks out
Reb: 4 clicks out (if this feels to firm back of too 5 out)

In combo with the 5mm drop I swear this will blow you away.:thumbup

Man, Ive been playing with the suspension again.

Front:

Raise Forks: 7mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 5th line. (Then back off one full turn)
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 34psi

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 3 Clicks out from all the way in. (2 Out on warmer days)
Rebound: 5 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 38psi

No crap this is it for me..... (Until I get some BT-010)

R1 Dave,
I envy you.
You must have some fantastically race track smoooth roads down there to be running 5 clicks out on rear rebound.
Mine at 5 out, when it hits even a tiny bump,
takes off !!
When did you last change your shock oil ?

El Duca ,

The bike has only 4,500KM on it, change the oil?
Its giving a firm ride, but not pushing me out of the seat or anything like that. The roads are good this way, but there are some pritty crappy ones to, and theres no problem.

I know you said before that you were running at about 9 clicks out, I think?

I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know.
:thumbup

Dave,
I weigh 82 kg. fully dressed, I remember you' re more so you might need to be a tad firmer on settings.
I'm undecided as to whether or not buying the Penske 8987 shock, considering I'll be selling the bike end of next year for TNG V4 or V5.

Ref Bridgestones - had BT010 Battlax's fitted f + r yesterday and bike already feels much more confident than on original Dunlops. I had planned to change the Dunlops anyway but rear was forced on me (I sound like George Michael's defence attorney here!) due to a thorn. 2000 miles (since March 8th) is a tad early to be replacing boots but it's only money. I replaced the stock Dunlops on my R6 with Bridgestones and they transformed the handling/performance. Most of all made ME feel much more confident.

I still need a damper though as she shakes her head under hard acceleration over even small bumps. Nowhere near as much as previous model R1's or my R6 but enough to make an Ohlins very high on the 'to do' list. Main UK dealer has no fitting kits though!

Is cold and wetter than an otter's pocket today so doubt I will turn a wheel.

m

well its taken me two hours to read through this thread and fifteen pages of paper to copy it all. i'm going to give all these settings a try as i have a track day coming up at oulton park(cheshire, england) very soon.

reading all this has got me really pumpmed about trying it all, ive never altered the bike before apart from to put it back to standard when i bought it last year, but i'm now looking forward to giving it a go.

thanks to everyone for the info, would have taken me years to work out!:thumbup

R1_DAVE:

On page 4 of this board you quote:
Originally posted by R1_Dave
Basic terms and functions:

Fork Hieght:
How much of the fork that is exposed above the top fork clamp. The distance is messured from the top of the clamp too the top of the fork cap. Thats the silver bit on top of the gold fork leg. (about 1mm thick of silver cap on the gold fork leg on the R1).


However, Mattias quoted the following on Post titled: Lowering the front (diff. question) regarding fork height lowering specs. It seems there are two contrasting theories as to which way to properly lower and accurately measure 5mm. I'm kind of confused as to which is correct and since a 1mm change can make a whole lot of difference, I'd like to clear this up.

Thanks.


Originally posted by Mattias1
The correct standard fork height is gold tube flush with top yoke. So your bike hasn´t been put together correctly. And for the correct 5 mm lowering, 5 mm of gold tube should protrude above the yoke surface.

I´d check the rest of the bike thoroughly, too. If that kind of stuff isn´t correct, what else have the bike shop chimps messed up?

This is the question Mattias replied to:
Originally posted by rbmcauliffe
I'm in the process of raising the sliders through the triple clamps and I have a quick question. I hope I can explain myself properly.

The stock front tubes are goldish color but topped with a silver color plate approx. 3mm thick which has a slightly smaller diameter than the tubes themselves. They were installed from the dealer with the top of this top silver plate flush with the top yoke. However, I just looked at the service manual and the illustration seemed to suggest that they should have been mounted with the top of the gold tube flush with the yoke. The question is, which is correct? I ask since it makes a difference in how far I'll raise the tubes through the clamps to get a proper 5mm adjustment. Simply put, to raise the front sliders 5mm properly, should 5mm of gold tube be showing or 5mm of combined gold tube and top silver plate be showing?

Hope the question makes sense. Waiting for any help I can get. Thanks in advance.

Richard

R1_DAVE:

schmidty175,

If you want an increase raise of, lets say 5mm then Mattias1 is correct. But if you would like a total of 5mm of fork over the top clamp then follow what Ive done.

Its just a reference point, but it makes a difference to setup. Mattias will end up with a steeper geometry setup to mine if the 5mm raise is done using his method.

I use the method used by WP Racing Suspension .With my setups I like to know how much total fork leg is above the clamp as a refference. All my posted setups are to this effect.

Hope this helps you out some. I still dont use a damper. My setups take this into acount.

:thumbup

Thanks R1_Dave,

That makes perfect sense to me now!

A good doc on suspension setup can be found on Fox's web site at
http://www.foxracingshox.com/motorcycle/pdf/MCManual.pdf

Well boys,

I finally got a set of BT010 hoops on the bike. Verry happy,what a differance from the standerd dunlops.

I went with the 190 rear as the tyre is narrower than the dunlop 190 anyway. I had to make a change to the rear shock also, as the rebound was now feeling pritty harsh. One click further out did the trick.

Hope I can scrub them in soon as its been raining all week.

Front:

Raise Forks: 7mm
Pre-Load: Set on the 5th line. (Then back off one full turn)
Comp.: 5 Clicks Out
Rebound: 5 Clicks Out
Tyre Psi: 36psi (for now)

Rear:

Pre-Load: Possition 7 out of 9
Comp. : 3 Clicks out from all the way in. (2 Out on warmer days)
Rebound: 6 Clicks out.
Tyre Psi: 40psi (for now)

Still no damper required.......Hmmmmm........

:thumbup

Hi r1_dave and fellow friends, here's my setting.....

Front
=====
preload - 5th ring
rebound - 6 clicks out fomr max
compression - 4 clicks out from max
tyre - 34 Psi

Rear
=====
preload - 6 of 9
compression - 5 clicks out from max
Rebound - 2 clicks out from max
tyre - 36 Psi

How is the setting as above? I weighing only 63 Kg without gears....Thanks

Anyone have any settings for a 145-155lb. rider. Gonna try messing around with the current settings but just wanted to what the lighter guys are running for comparison. Just bought the bike so Im still trying to get the feel for what works and what not.
Thanks

anyone have suggestions for an 05 R1, i'm 6'6 weigh 215 naked.... I contacted racetech, they told me I will need new suspension to match my weight, but i'll tell ya, I cranked all the valves to max and the bike rides rougher than my 75 bronco... so the suspension gets hard enough to accomodate my weight i believe.

Does anyone know the stock settings for my bike? The stock settings were decent, a lot better than what its at now. I rode it for 7 months on stock settings before starting to play with the suspension, kinda wish I didn't touch it. Its been sitting in the garage all winter with the hard settings, getting a little warmer in the daytime... getting antsy to ride.

i've always found that taking the tools with me on a road that offers all types of surfaces is best, i go over and over my bit of a track i have mapped out and get it just right, i change my settings a lot, depending on where i ride .

good settings make a ride so much better its crazy.

Now Ohlins front and back would be perfect...

Originally posted by jmchenry
anyone have suggestions for an 05 R1, i'm 6'6 weigh 215 naked.... I contacted racetech, they told me I will need new suspension to match my weight, but i'll tell ya, I cranked all the valves to max and the bike rides rougher than my 75 bronco... so the suspension gets hard enough to accomodate my weight i believe.

Does anyone know the stock settings for my bike? The stock settings were decent, a lot better than what its at now. I rode it for 7 months on stock settings before starting to play with the suspension, kinda wish I didn't touch it. Its been sitting in the garage all winter with the hard settings, getting a little warmer in the daytime... getting antsy to ride.

Standard settings will be in your owners manual you should have got with the bike. Always write every thing you do down so you can go back to it if you go the wrong way. Jeese thias thread has been going a while.

I'll have to look again, I don't remember seeing this section in there... I've read it front to back about 10 times... nice toilet reading :D

I looked and found the original settings in the owners manual... geesh... after how many times of reading that thing i should have known it was in there..... thanks!

R1_Dave and Rick 25,

Guys, thanks a ton for your input. I just plugged your suggested settings into my 2000 R1 today:

Front:
Compression 6 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload 6 lines showing
Tire pressure 34psi

Back:
Compression 3 clicks out
Rebound 5 clicks out
Preload position 9, full preload
Tire pressure 38 psi

I'm running Pirelli Corsa tires right now and man, your settings worked much better than the factor settings for me. I'm a novice rider and these settings were a boat load better for me. I'm at 200 lbs with full gear. Being a novice my entry speeds are pretty slow but I'm pretty comfortable sliding the back out on corner exit with the throttle (thank you to my YZ250). Anyhow, thanks for set ups for the R1. I'll try the latest settings over the next few weeks to see how they work for me. I wished I would have went to the last page today before riding! It sounds like sliding the tubes up 5-7mm in the clamps are the ticket up front.

Again, thanks for sharing your set ups.

By the way, The Metzler M1 Sportec's are a terrible tire. My bike came with these and man are they bad. The rear would hope out without warning on minor throttle application on the street. I switched to Pirelli Corsa's and man what a difference. The Pirelli's work great and are very predictable coming out of the corner. You can slide the ass with confidence.

Cheers,

Aaron

Own a 2001 R1.Lowered the rear about 3 1/2". Seat height is 29 1/2". What would be the correct amount to raise the fork tubes to get the bike on it's correct rake. angle, ect. have them through the trees's 2" now and really wants to drop into corners. Also working with some of these suspension settings. After riding a chopper for 5 years this sport bike is taking some getting use to. Any suggestions? Been riding for 40 years, but this bike is a bit different to say the least.

Dave

where can i get a suspension set up for my 2008 r1 i weight 65 kg i think is like 140 pounds stocks tires and i have 1.85 cm heigh like 72 inches

thanks in advance

where can i get a suspension set up for my 2008 r1 i weight 65 kg i think is like 140 pounds stocks tires and i have 1.85 cm heigh like 72 inches

thanks in advance

The following site has good articles to study and their recommended settings have been a good baseline in the past :

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_susp/index.html

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/index.html

The following site has good articles to study and their recommended settings have been a good baseline in the past :

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_susp/index.html

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/index.html

i checked what u suggested thanks a lot i forgot to said last week lol

ride safe

Sorry, Swedie
I live in Miami, I can ride all year long.:cool:

Ft Myers here!:epimp:bow