Dec.19th---STILL NO CONFIRMED FIX for this problem
Sept.2005-STILL BROKEN-no confirmed fixed
2 years and heading to the third of this problem.

UPDATE DEC.4,2004
I THINK WE MAY HAVE THE FIX---VERY LOW TECH FIX...
i SPOKE TO PASCAL PICOTTE AND HIS HEAD MECHANIC TODAY AND HE SAID WE NEED TO ADD MORE COOLANT. THE COOLANT LEVEL CAN DROP BY 200-300CC AND IT WILL EFFECT THE THERMAL WAX PLUNGER CAUSING THE ECU TO THINK SOMETHIGN IS WRONG AND SHUT OFF THE BIKE---NO ERROR CODES CUZ NOT ELECTRICAL. SO ADD MORE COOLANT AND IT SHOULD FIX YOUR ISSUE. HE SAID HE HAS SEEN IT BEFORE....WE CAN TEST IT BY LIFTING UP THE GAS TANK AND YOU WILL SEE IF THE PLUNGERS ARE MOVING PROPERLY AS THE COOLANT CIRCULATES AND HEATS UP THE WAX....CAN SOMEONE TRY IT AND LET US KNOW.


UPDATE---OCT1-2004
Now I think I know what the fix is, at least for my problem which seems to be the same as alot of you.

I have been testing my bike for close to 1000km.

It has a new ECU and matching throttle body. THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU. Any mechanics here that can explain whats on the throttle body?

The weather has cooled down here but it was fairly warm today (22c-but cool).

I ran it in traffic for1.5 hours today plus another hour at night.
It is running very well now. The fan was running at 105c hit 108c and still ran fine in traffic moving less than 30kmh.

BUT, what if we get the same crappy part that will act up in another 6000km....hmm



TO YAMAHA- contact me-I have DETAILS for this problem.
Weather, conditions, humidity, times, fuel, I even have oil that I saved.

I think alot of you might run into this soon:
1. 2004 R1 with 12500km
2. ran fine until 6000km
3. ECU replaced
4. Exup adjusted
5. richened up-no longer lean
6. happening for over 6 weeks now
7. bike in shop for 6 days now---will go back for a day 7 this week.

PROBLEM
When I come to a stop the bike would just shut off. Sounds like a wind down sound. Like an electrical motor winding down to off. The dash lights stay on. I have to turn it off with the key and restart it. This used to happen in the hot days but now it happens at night and within 100 yards after i come out of my driveway in the mornings now. It HAS gotten worse for me.


This is happening more often (daily now) it happens when it is hot. It happens when it is cool.
It happens riding for less than 10 min or after 1 hour.

I am in Canada. If you had this happen to you and it was fixed (wherever you are from), please pm me with name of shop and location so I can get Yamaha Canada to call them. Also let me know exactly what they did to fix your problem.

Dam---they have me doing all their trial and tests for them.
Did I tell you I almost got rear ended a few times at stop lights.

PLEASE PROVIDE THE FIX IF THIS HAPPENED TO YOU.
ONLY POST IF THIS IS HAPPENING TO YOU AND PLEASE UPDATE YOUR 1 POST AS YOU HAVE PROBLEMS AND FIXES. THE GOAL IS TO KEEP A RUNNING JOURNAL OF OUR PROBLEMS AND TRACK IT EASIER FOR ANY FUTURE ISSUES.

Thanks everyone,TO YAMAHA- contact me-I have DETAILS for this problem. TO YAMAHA- contact me-I have DETAILS for this problem.

RUFFSTUFF,

My bike does this, but not consistently. Probably every 300-500 miles, the idle will drop to around 400 or 500 rpms and the bike will cut out. If I shut it off and restart it a few minutes later, the problem is gone completely and it idles like new again. Are these the same symptoms you had? or did your bike cut out all of the time?

my bike drops down and idle low-however not now since they added more fuel---it is not lean anymore---it used to just drop down to 500 and sometimes die, but i used to turn it off and restart it because I knew what was going to happen next.

yes-i have to turn it off and restart mine also and it runs for a while or the day but for certian it will do it the next day.

For the most part-mine shuts off when i let go off the throttle while comming to a stop with clutch pulled in.

I AM LOOKING FOR PEOPLE TO ADD THEIR FIXES TO MY POST.
I WANT TO KNOW IF IT WAS REPORTED TO YAMAHA, AND WHAT PARTS DID THEY SEND TO FIX IT. IF SOMEONE HAS A NAME OF THE PERSON AT YAMAHA (US OR OTHER) THAT THEY SPOKE TO, PLEASE PM ME WITH IT SO CANADA CAN CALL THAT PERSON.

THANKS,
D.

search for posts by me and Singaporescott.

We had same problems. 'No concrete fix....has not been a problem for the last months

I am adding to this thread from my old thread.

I have some serious problems with the 04 today. On the way to work at about 70mph my bike starts lurching. Feels like a fuel problem, but its cutting out. Then when you get on it no problem at all. It still runs like a beast, but then a came to my first stop after that and idle drops to half and then it dies. Did this for the next 25 miles or so. I adjusted the idle and it was ok for about half that and now it doing it even at 15mph. Just lurching bad.

I am thinking it could be bad gas or something. I am going to change gas stations after I run it out and see if this is the issue.

Anyone had this problem yet? My mods are listed in my sig which I did like a 1000 miles ago and I have no errors on the dash, so I don't think they could be cuasing this.

This happened to me around 5000 miles and I thought it might just have been bad gas or that flat spot with the stock exhaust and exup valve. I went with a full Graves a couple weeks ago and today the problem came back and got even worse. It cut idle in half and then died. I finally pulled over and cranked the idle up and it seemed to go away. That was the first tiem i turned the key off as well. Before when it died I just restarted it.

I went another 15 miles and then it started to cut out at like 15mph and then died again. I still have 50 miles to get it home from work :(

I checked with my dealer and they have had no calls on this yet.

So I went to the dealer to get this checked out and they had to call Yamaha direct to see if they knew anything. Turns out they do knoww about this issue, but they are being very quiet as they have no idea what is causing it. They wanted to drill holes in my header and attach some tool )the dealer would have to order because they didn't even have it) and read what the engine is burning. I of course said He!! NO! I have a full Graves on mine but of course they think my bike is stock:D

So this is a known issue with no resolve as of yet. Yamaha thinks it's the TPS sensor or the throttle bodies. That would sound right according to what I have been reading on several other threads on this subject. The TPS is $120 and the bike has 2, so it's not something they will just swap out to see if thats it. Even under warranty. So at this point I am monitoring the issue and waiting for someone or Yamaha to figure out.

This is very dangerous as you can stall in turns and lights, pretty much anywhere. I am wondering if the guy in another thread that had a crash in a corner he was going slow might have had a stall and then severe engine braking:confused:

So stay tuned and be careful until they address this issue.

I will try to get this thread to be a sticky....Hey moderator, make this a sticky...its a safety issue!

Okay, my problem came back tonight same as before, hesitation, then stalling, with a rough idle.. In most cases, if I turned the bike off with the key, waited a few moments and then started it back up, it would idle normally. But then the hesitation would come back at some point....


This sucks.

My 02 has almost 35,000 miles, and other than shitty footpegs, not a single issue!

Well I have a case ID open with Yamaha, so hopefully they figure it out.

I was having so much fun with the bike until this crap started to happen. From what i hear it just gets worse and more frequent:mad:

Be interested what becomes of this .Bike just started doing this,just over 8000kms

Well, I'm going back to tell the dealer today... we thought it was fixed when the coils were changed, but oh well!

From what Yamaha is telling me I think it's the TPS sensors, but swapping them out won't help if they are not working because of a design problem. This seems to happen after some mileage, so others will most likely start to have these issues as well.

Mine rides fine now, but it will do it again. It totally suucks when it hapens.

Everyone should be safe and when going 2 up make sure they hold on the jerking can get really bad at times. i was one handing it on an open road and almost flew off when it cut out:confused:

Hope they come up with a fix fast! I will post any news I get on it. Please do the same if you get a fix or hear something.

same here mine first did it at around 8-9k miles. I too thought it was the gas. I now have 14k on her now hasn't surged since then, but now that i'm posting this it'll probably come back.

Mine started around 6-7k. I now have over 10k.

Remind me if I haven't said that this sucks.

I keep telling everybody it is the tps. My bike did the exact same thing that everyone is explaining. My bike started acting up early at around 2000 miles I think. Anyways they replaced the tps and reprogrammed the bike and it has been running perfect ever sense. I think that it was bad out of the box because when they fixed it, the bike ran ten times better. I got my bike fixed from champion yamaha it mt pleasant south carolina. If anyone has any specific questions the number their is (843) 856-8656.

i have the same proble ,for a couple of days now.(7600 kms)
it seems that nobody has the answer not even yamaha. please if you find anything important let me know.

same problem here. I have 3,800 miles on mine. Just started doing it right after 3,500 and after I had the engine all torn apart. I thought it was something I did wrong when I was putting it all back together.

I now run the idle up at around 1,600 / 1,700 rpms. Thats kinda high for daily riding. But it gets rid of the problem for me (so far). I tried to go back to a lower idle, cut off again.

PLEASE ONLY POST IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM OR HAD YOUR PROBLEM FIXED.

All,
I started this post and provided what I was looking for. Please follow the request. I do not want just try this or try that.
I want to know:
1. who has the problem, when did it start how many miles or km
2. has it been fixed and how and when, where
3. post your info in your original post-do not start new posts for each update as it makes it harder to track the issue.

I have pm those indivuals to remove their posts and to edit multpile posts into 1 post. If the cooperation is not there then I will ask the mod. to remove and edit this thread.

Sorry, not trying to be a control freak, but this issue is DANGEROUS-trust me. I keep asking all that has this issue to not take a passenger and the problem does get worse. Call Yamaha and tell them-try and get some report# for proof.

Thanks, and hopefully noone flames me:boom

I got this problem, The bike dosen't cut out but feels like its going to or it feels like it has no gas being fed to the enging when i'm off the throttle and decelerating in high rpm's. 2500 miles started 1,500 miles on it. I have micron slip-on with out a pc3, So i was just thinking it was me not having the pc3.

PLEASE STOP POSTING opinions HERE---WE ARE TRYING TO GET A VERY SERIOUS PROBLEM TRACKED AND SOLVE HERE.
I AM SPENDING TIME TRYING TO TRACK EVERYONE WITH THIS PROBLEM FOR WARRANTY AND ANY LEGAL ISSUES THAT MAY ARISE.
post if u have this problem or if it was fixed.
THANKS FOR YOUR COOPERATION-

OK, it cut out in a left turn why I was yeilding and I almost got taken out by a 4x4 raised Ford:eek:

Yamaha better get a handle on this before someone gets hurt. I can tell you right now I will sue if I get hurt until I own the company! Rossi will be riding for me!

Turning the key off seems to help get rid of it for a bit, but it comes right back. Been more frequent lately too. I need this bike for work dam'it:fact

My 04 cut out suddenly on a right hand downhill turn at WSIR, T4b. No previous hint of any problems, and no warnings at all. No time to pull in the clutch or react in anyway, except to try to not tumble as I went asphault surfing. The bike is a total loss. :crash

mine did this one time, I did an endo and the bike started sputtering and cut off. The shiftlight I believe started blinking the error code but I was sitting in the middle of the road and couldnt get the bike to crank I truned off the key and back on then cranked fine...no problems since thank goodness.

mine is 7400 miles oil changed properly and all service done according to yamaha.

Mine is going to the dealer today. I spoke with Yamaha direct and they do not think it is the TPS sensor. They said that would happen all the time then. They are willing to send an exhuast to my dealer to have it drilled and hooked up to a machine for reading. It's not runnning lean either. I am on a powercommender with a Graves system

Eyespy, Yamaha knows about this and has done nothing. Time for you to get a lawyer and get another bike for free. That totally sucks. I am supposed to be racing this next month in the Toyota 200 too:rant

I will post when I get feedback from the dealer.

I am also going to call Graves and see if they know anything.

Well I have been thinking and This mostly happens when my gas light is on. Always trying to keep the least amount of gas in the bike while on the track. I do most of my laps with the gas light on. And this Is when I Notice it the most.

Originally posted by pep04r1
Well I have been thinking and This mostly happens when my gas light is on. Always trying to keep the least amount of gas in the bike while on the track. I do most of my laps with the gas light on. And this Is when I Notice it the most.

Mine happens with any amount of gas in the tank.

The lean angle sensor is in the back under the seat. This would completely kill your bike and it would just turn off, not cut on and off. I usually take the weight out of it an dthen that disables it. i know the Suzuki had a problem when it was at full tilt, but Yamaha's never had a lean issue. Plus this happens when your just crusing along .

I called Graves and they only had a problem with it running lean and not reving above 10500. They told me to speak with a guy at LA Yamaha, so I talked to him and they had another guy with the same issue. That can be reprogrammed from the dash.

Originally posted by r1rider871
Mine started when it was completely stock, now it still occurs with the full Graves and powercommander

Sorry dude this sucks but I hope there is a solution FAST everyones new 04 is getting up there in milage
and the 05s are coming out in 2mths

Well i have the problem for more then 2 months,i contact Yamaha Europe(i live in Holland)but they said that they never heard about it,now i read this ,i know that i am not the only one.
Last weekend a make a tripe to the Nordschleife and the bike starting to do this after riding 23 km,i switch off the contact and start it again,it runs fine after that.
But mostly it happend with a cold start,i have see that after touching the throtle the engie gets to much fuel,because dark smoke from not burnt fuel is coming out off the exhaust.


I link this at Yamaha and see what they say about this,now they can not deneid that i am the only one with this prob.

My bike did it completely stock, and with multiple power commander maps.

Mine was stock with the exception of the AIS block-off plates and a PCIIIusb with the "stock" map. No other mods. Stock airbox, stock exhaust, etc. Thanks for the well wishes. Busted up my right wrist, but it's doing much better now....

Originally posted by Eyespy
Mine was stock with the exception of the AIS block-off plates and a PCIIIusb with the "stock" map. No other mods. Stock airbox, stock exhaust, etc. Thanks for the well wishes. Busted up my right wrist, but it's doing much better now....

You need to get a lawyer. Copy this thread and give it to him. This is a known issue and Yamaha has not warned anyone about it. At the least they need to replace the bike. Racing or not this should not happen.

Glad to hear your OK, but what happen's if you were in a pack going through T8? Many more could have got hurt and maybe killed. They need to notify owners of this issue, not all o4 R1 owners use this board. Some people dismiss this when it first happens. I did as well, but it gets much worse. I will be without my bike until they figure this out. I am going to nail them for a rental or they will hear from my lawyers! This is completely BS and they should and need to be all over this issue. All the other manufactures have done thier recalls, they need to suck it up and get some bad press if thats what it takes to warn people.

My bike is STOCK.
Everyone CALL YAMAHA and send email then tell you dealer, now they WILL know.

I know it's hard ppl not believing us, but we are right. We know what is happening. This is just wrong. I hope no one get hurt or killed. Tell your friends with R1's.

PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THIS ISSUE LIGHTLY. IT IS DANGEROUS.
YOU HAVE NO WAY TO RECOVER WHILE IT"S SHUTTING OFF except for turning the key off then back on.

PS. I noticed that you might get a surge sometimes when it will die. It makes winedown noise when u let the throttle go. I know it will die from that sound. DO NOT DISMISS THIS issue assuming you have the problem.

PLEASE KEEP THIS THREAD CLEAN AND FOCUSED.
Thank You.

I got slip-ons and punched out the converter No ps3. My bike wont complety die, It's almost like a huge hesitation, then it pick's up the rpm's. But to the point the bike will just about buck.

Here's the thread:
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98477&highlight=potential+problem

and

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91681

I have about $1,200.00 miles and just made my first payment.

This is disturbing especially since I am already temted to sell for a black 05 (just because black is my favorite color) maybe smarter to go with 06 to give time to work out the problem, however; if it takes them that long I will sell my wife's 04R6 and 04R1 and raptor and banshee and become a honda customer real quick!

EVERYONES WHO OWNES AN 04 R1 (problem or not) Write the CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commision and/or cc them your letters to Yamaha).

If enough do then they may be forced to do a recall.


...And yes, black is a color. Black is actually the presence of all colors white being the absence of all colors)

Sorry for not replying "only if I have the problem or fixed it", however; as far as I am concerned I do have the problem as I have to worry about IF I get it which is a problem in itself. At 1200 miles it has not affected my ride, however when I get near 3k in a moth or so I am not so sure I am not going to have this in the back of my mind. Maybe I should sue you for putting the thought there -the american way (totally kidding, I will sue if something happens to my bike and in the meantime I am totally behind you as should all 04 R1 Owners).

I have been loyal to them as my first two bikes were FZR 600's and I own 3 Yamaha ATV and fixing to by the kids something.

I fear since varying milage is a factor that this may be a major engine problem (i.e. premature wear or loss of compression throwing off computer). This thought may have been placed here by the fact that they went to a different piston on the 05 and the engine was re-designed in 04.

Friends Bike in the UK the same started cutting occasionally at first but now all the time, bike done around 6000 miles Yamaha UK say "Check the battery we've had faulty ones' Dealer doesn't know bike in shop now 2 weeks getting v frustrated

Does anyone have contact info for where we can complain, send letters, emails, or call?

What is the number for this Yamaha direct?

My buddies 04 r1 has 6000 miles on it and not a problem either. I DO NOT have the problem either, but like someone else stated it sort of IS my problem, because I have the bike.

hi,
I've got an 04 - bone stock and almost 17,000km, thats about slightly more than 10,000miles on it.

I was getting the same problem - however nowhere near as bad as what I'm hearing here.

Mine would stutter and spurt ONLY when Im running LOW on gas. Keeping a hand on the throttle seem to keep it in check. The problem would disappear after Ive got the tank filled up.

Strange thing is I got to wait a while after filling to crank it. Starting the bike right after filling dont seem to work. It would turn over without starting. But give it a few minutes and it fires up right off.

one more thng ...

we had a guy here in singapore who had a similar problem:


http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=76842&perpage=20&highlight=singapore%20scott&pagenumber=4

(Note: Scroll to somewhere in the middle of the page)

not sure if the problem has been rectified:

__________________________
Originally posted by SingaporeScott
Well, I am not really sure what to say -- my '04 is less than two weeks old and its already in the shop.

The story goes like this...

On the evening I collected the bike a couple of weeks ago -- after only about 30KM of riding -- the engine started to idle quite slow/roughly and act jerky at low revs in any gear/at any speed. Then the engine began stalling whenever (a) stopped in neutral and (b) whenever downshifting and clutching-in when braking/slowing-down. So, I rode home and adjusted for (a) slightly faster idle and (b) a little more clutch play and the problem seemed to be solved. I then rode about 250KM without any incident.

Then, about 3 days later, I started to get the problem again -- (a) rough engine idle (b) slow-fast-slow engine idling and (c) stalling when in neutral/clutching and downshifting started again. I turned-off the bike and rang the Yamaha dealer who told me to bring the bike in if the problem persisted. Well, obviously when I went home that night and for the next 3 days I didn't have any problems, so I thought it "solved itself"...

Then, last week end the bike seemed fine (idle/acceleration) when cold and then ridden short distances -- but after it got hot the problem started again (rough idle, stalling, slow-fast-slow idle, etc...). The symptoms seemed to occur when the bike was fully warmed-up and then during city driving/stop-and-go riding/when engine was turned off and on (if I stopped for something, turned the bike off, and then started it again). It was weird, because it would come and go...

Essentially, I thought at first it was the fuel injection as the bike was very jerky at all revs in any gear/at any speed and the bike would "bog" when revving engine in neutral -- there was a definite flat spot between 1,500-2,500 RPM's. Maybe something was blocking the injectors or something. I also thought maybe it was "bad petrol" -- water in it or something -- but as I'd been through about 3 full tanks of gas, this seemed unlikely.

Anyhow, I took it to the dealer on Monday morning and spoke to the mechanic today. He said that after keeping the bike, seeing the symptoms and inspecting the fuel injection, petrol lines, etc... that he thinks the problem is with the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) -- which I essentially understand to be the bike's "master computer".

**Note, in case it wasn't clear, I am not overly mechanically-inclined.**

OK, I say -- let's just replace that and away we go (or at least we'll KNOW if that's the problem or not, right?).

Not so easy -- as the '04 R1 is so new (especially here in Singapore) -- the Yamaha dealer here doesn't have ANY spare parts in-stock yet. So, no parts = no repair. Thus, my baby sits "grounded" at the Yamaha dealer waiting...and waiting...

I have suggested locating a "display R1" from their showroom or one of their affiliated dealers, taking its ECU out and putting it in mine. However, the Manager is out of town until this Friday, so this is not looking like a likely option right now.

Anyway, I just thought I'd commiserate here. I am frustrated and very very disappointed. I guess these things happen -- I just wish they happened to the guy who bought a CBR or GSX-R...

Also, I was wondering if -- based on the symptoms I described above -- anyone may have any other ideas of what I can ask the mechanic to inspect in hopes of finding the root cause of the problem -- I am still holding out the small hope that we won't have to wait for a new ECU and that its something else not quite as serious...

Thanks, guys -- any input is appreciated!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey I haven't bothered to read about everyone's post but, my roomate just recently bought a 04 and the first time taking it out it did this constantly. So we took it in and totally pulled the bike apart and had it dyno. We found that the header was warped and had developed a small crack. We talked to yamaha and found that this is happening a lot with the 04's. we got the new header on order and I will let you know if this fixes the problem and if it ever does this again.

Keasling is a BITCH, but i love i love the guy. This so pissed me off, I could have my bike out and after 20-40 minutes i couldn't keep it at idle to save my ass. it turned out it was a warmed flange at the EXUP valve. Yamaha is going to warranty this, but you know like the rest of you, I thought it was everything but that. i.e. bad fuel, bad power commander map, anything but the Header?? Are you kidding me? With this many posts, sounds to me like Yamaha should be seriously lookin at this, because it is obviously a problem.


PJ

My post from some time ago describing the same thing:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91374

Disregard the valve thing in that link. I post this to say I have had the same problem described in this thread and want to help Speeder2 put together a list.

mines does it also, i though it was just me. but now that you guys mention it. it does sputter and etc.

Originally posted by racindego
martin:
there are other symptoms as well as just cutting off. The bike does cut off if the problem starts happening while you are riding it, but if it is idling when the problem occurs, the idle drops to around 400-500( Just barely stays running) and the mixture seems to go very rich. no codes are thrown (as of yet)


My bike has had an incident just like this one. It happened once at appox 4000 miles. Very hot day and I just couldn't get it to idle. Ran fine as long as I didn't let the rpms drop. Almost felt like it was out of gas (it wasn't). Never threw a code and my dealership said that they couldn't do anything if it didn't store a code. Problem fixed itself after I turned off the key and restarted. I now have appox 6000 miles and hasn't happened again.
Chavez.

My bike is still stuttering and cutting off. Seems to be only when its been running and gets good and hot. Maybee the engine is heating up the ECU or TPS and making it spaz up. I dont know. I had my local shop DYNO TUNE my bike because I got the Graves header on it now. It started to act up as he was tuning it. He figured out to turn it off and back on again. He thinks its the TPS. Yamaha better start doing a recal before the '05 comes out. I know it will hurt their sales if they do one. But it'll hurt it even more if it's unhappy loyal custemers like me start shoping for something more reliable. I'm f##cking pissed. But I did get rid of that 7,000 rpm dip from replacing the header. Yay...

Originally posted by racindego
martin:
there are other symptoms as well as just cutting off. The bike does cut off if the problem starts happening while you are riding it, but if it is idling when the problem occurs, the idle drops to around 400-500( Just barely stays running) and the mixture seems to go very rich. no codes are thrown (as of yet)


My bike has had an incident just like this one. It happened once at appox 4000 miles. Very hot day and I just couldn't get it to idle. Ran fine as long as I didn't let the rpms drop. Almost felt like it was out of gas (it wasn't). Never threw a code and my dealership said that they couldn't do anything if it didn't store a code. Problem fixed itself after I turned off the key and restarted. I now have appox 6000 miles and hasn't happened again.
Chavez.

Do yall think that heat is playing a roll in causing this problem? I live in Fla. and can't recal this happening at night or during a cool evening out.

no-its not just heat---it starts that way
mine did it in cold---just turned on bike-died 4 times in less than 500yards from garage....it gets worse..

Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
6555 Katella Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630

Sales, marketing and distribution of Motorcycles, ATVs, Snowmobiles, Generators and Race Kart Engines. Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926

Call them and bitch, nothing will happen unless people complain directly to them and point them to this thread.

I havent had a problem, but damn yamaha if I have to worry about racking miles on my new 04

Originally posted by s4iscool
Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA
6555 Katella Avenue
Cypress, CA 90630

Sales, marketing and distribution of Motorcycles, ATVs, Snowmobiles, Generators and Race Kart Engines. Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926

Call them and bitch, nothing will happen unless people complain directly to them and point them to this thread.

I havent had a problem, but damn yamaha if I have to worry about racking miles on my new 04

Believe me Yamaha Europe knows about this problem,but till now they do not have a answer,i call tommorow and hear if they know something more.
They have the link to this topic.

It happened to mine again, It happened once a month or so ago, when it was low on gas, but not nearly this bad and I thought it was just bad gas because when I filled up the problem went away. This time I was on a 100km trip home and it started to miss around 50km into the trip. the last 25km it felt like I was running out of gas. It was after dark it it was probable only 10 degree celsius.
I have just over 15,000km on the bike. I just changed my oil this weekend, Amsoil 10w40. I've got the full Graves with the pc3usb running the graves map from the PC website. I've also spliced into the countershaft pickup harness for my yellow box. I'm going to take it over to the dealer without adding any gas so they can see it. My warranty expires in feb so I want it fixed this fall before I put it away.

I called the number posted for Yamaha USA, and pissed away 35 minutes of my life. All that time on hold for some slut who doesnt know shit besides what her computer says. Apparently I need to bring the bike to the dealer so they can fix it. Yeah right bitch.:no

This thread is kind of all over the place now. I am writing yamaha a letter, but if the dealership doesn't have a fix, and they say there is nothing they can do. The next question I'm going to be asking is "How much can I get for it on a trade in?" Because I'll be getting an 03 or a different brand bike if they can't get a fix for this by time my warranty is up.

Mine is r1 #208 BTW, no problems yet, 3000miles

I got this same occasional sputtering at idle but it was on an 03' R6, . Now I hesitate to say that it is the same problem, but I thought some of you may like to try this since it's easy and free.

Some of the guys over at the R6messagenet gave me the idea to look at the TPS. It passed on bike diagnostics as well as the resistance tests and I was just about to put it back when I thought why not give it a squirt of penetrant/contact cleaner, that's what **** up most potentiometers in my electrical experience. So I squirted it through the gap in the rotor and gave it series of lock to lock turns to scrub out any gummed up residue. The problem has not reoccured since.

I think those guys who have this happening very frequently can give it a shot and post if this solves the problem.

The 03 R6 has a bulliten on bad coils. Take your VIN to the dealer and they can cehck it for you. The problem was the coils were cracking and arcing on the frame. if it feels like its running on 3 cylinders then thats the issue. They will replace them for free.

Originally posted by thwwx
I got this same occasional sputtering at idle but it was on an 03' R6, . Now I hesitate to say that it is the same problem, but I thought some of you may like to try this since it's easy and free.

Some of the guys over at the R6messagenet gave me the idea to look at the TPS. It passed on bike diagnostics as well as the resistance tests and I was just about to put it back when I thought why not give it a squirt of penetrant/contact cleaner, that's what **** up most potentiometers in my electrical experience. So I squirted it through the gap in the rotor and gave it series of lock to lock turns to scrub out any gummed up residue. The problem has not reoccured since.

I think those guys who have this happening very frequently can give it a shot and post if this solves the problem.

Just got mine back from the dealer today. They could not reproduce the problem....big surprise that was. They gave me back the bike and cleared me to ride it. So now it lays in Yamaha's hands to find the problem.

To YAMAHA,

Since Yamaha is reading this post, then they should know that I am riding this around as I need it for work. So please get a fix before myself or someone out on the street has something happen to them and they get hurt real bad.
Until I am notified of a fix I will be waiting for a response. Hopefully you will post something here to let us all know on top of contacting us.

I just get a call from Yamaha Europe,it is probely the TPS,but this is not 100% sure,so Yamaha Europe ask now Japan what they think about this.

Some techincal people from Yamaha Europe reading this topic,so please write you problem clearly down,so they get an good idea what it could be.

EXACTLY---they are trying to keep us divided.
That's why I was asking you guys to get some sort of tracking number to confirm your call. HOw can you proove that you talked to someone there?

If someone can find a YAmaha email account then we will have proof of emails sent.

Everyone, please try and assis or we will ALL get the shaft later in one way or another.
THe GOAL here is to keep ppl SAFE asap.

Keep trying and be carefull.

I JUST THOUGHT OF THIS---TRY THIS YOU GUYS--

if you have a way of connecting an mp3 recorder or tape recorded to the steering area when you ride-they can hear when the bike dies---after it happens u narrate the time, temp,gas level or km travelled, time u started the bike-time it died---shit like that...note how u had to restart, try just starting the bike 3 times---then say you are now going to turn the key off then on---they can hear that---then start it again...keep a recorder on while riding.

As the problem gets worse the bike will die more frequently and it died for me 30 seconds after strtup sometimes. YOur bikes should do something weird in 100km of regular street riding. THe problem shows up when in warm weather faster but will start to happen even when the temp is cool.

Now you will have a sound clip you can post and send to dealer/Yamaha....(i just thought of this idea)

I was told by my dealer---
Call Yamaha First then contact the dealer.
Reason--makes it easier for Dealer because Yamaha now knows and heard from the customer firsthand.

That's what I was told...btw---the mechanic told me he would get a call from YAmaha everytime I called Yamaha---took time out of his day to answer the phone calls---oh well, it takes money out of my account to pay for a new broken bike plus using my AAA to tow the dam bike plus missing good riding weather and my dam weekend trip that was planned for months---who is paying me...

Originally posted by Speeder2
I was told by my dealer---
Call Yamaha First then contact the dealer.
Reason--makes it easier for Dealer because Yamaha now knows and heard from the customer firsthand.

That's what I was told...btw---the mechanic told me he would get a call from YAmaha everytime I called Yamaha---took time out of his day to answer the phone calls---oh well, it takes money out of my account to pay for a new broken bike plus using my AAA to tow the dam bike plus missing good riding weather and my dam weekend trip that was planned for months---who is paying me...


Sounds like you have an example of a shitty dealer. Maybe you can find another... or at least keep this in mind when it's time for your next purchase, of anything. Plus, word of mouth does wonders...

Damn I'm sort of relieved that I'm not the only one having this problem. The discriptions of the hickups are spot on for my ride. I didn't have a problem until the bike rolled over 7000 miles. My first thought was the TPS as well. The only time I've noticed the problem is at steady state throttle and idling of course. If I'm on and off the throttle the bike doesn't seem to have a problem, or maybe I just don't notice the glitch. It seems both the low idle and the momentary stumble coincide, right? At least that's been my experience.

To be specific the intermitant hesitation on my bike has happened in fairly short durations. Yesterday while on the interstate it acted up for maybe 15 minutes then just cleared up, however the idle was round about 800 RPM. I turned the ignition off and on, restarted the bike and it ran perfectly.

Any update on a resolution? I'm sure as hell not going to let the dealer try to figure it out knowing that there are many bikes out there with same problem. Obviously Yamaha has a problem here.


C

Yo RuffStuff
Dude I politely sent you a pm.
Please remove your other posts that does not address the problem. YOu have the problem yourself. I am trying to keep this this post focused so that WE ALL do look organised and know what we are tlking about. Instead it is becomming a babble on---note the popcorn post above this...What does this do for us except decrease our credibility. Please condense your posts into 1 post.

I REALLY HOPE YOU WILL COOPERATE DUDE...WE know we have a problem, but Yamaha is dancing around us. We need to stay focused. THE PURPOSE IS TO KEEP PPL FROM GETTING HURT OR KILLED. A FEW OF US HAVE THE PROBLEM AT THE WORSE END OF THE SPECTRUM. We did NOT pay good money for this crap.

Thanks for your help man. This goes out to others as well.

Hey, this is an open forum to all members, not your personal litigation center. Chill out. You want our help but only in your format on a forum you're not even a moderator for? Maybe... not.


Have a beer on me, eh?


BTW, Yamaha is not one person at one phone number, it is numerous networked workers. Yamaha knows about the problem, now maybe they don't know an accurate number of faulty bikes, but they know.

Dude, thanks for the offer.
I may not be a moderator.
I am the one that started this thread and have contacted numerous ppl by pm.
I am the one trying to keep this organised and focused.
I am the one that is trying to keep you from getting hurt or killed.
So, yes...I think that has earned me the right to organise the information and try to keep the information focused.

I am not trying to start a debate here dude, but someone did get hurt already (Eyespy).
:cool:

meooowwwww hissssssss.......

uh, what do you guys think the lemon law is for???:2bitchsla 3 consecutive trips to the dealer to fix the exact same problem without it being remedied and you have yourself a courtcase. and don't think that you'll only get what you paid for the bike. you will usually get at least double the original purchase price to compensate for attorney fees and rental costs (you'd be stupid not to milk it and get a rental for the entire duration of the downtime). of course make sure you have a good lawyer before going ahead with a lemon law case. also check your state and country laws for differences in the lemon law. anyway good luck guys and not for nothing but this is why i don't buy yami anymore, because their reaction time to find a solution if friggen ridiculous. :machinegu :fork :boom

Originally posted by r1rider871
You need to get a lawyer. Copy this thread and give it to him. This is a known issue and Yamaha has not warned anyone about it. At the least they need to replace the bike. Racing or not this should not happen.

Glad to hear your OK, but what happen's if you were in a pack going through T8? Many more could have got hurt and maybe killed. They need to notify owners of this issue, not all o4 R1 owners use this board. Some people dismiss this when it first happens. I did as well, but it gets much worse. I will be without my bike until they figure this out. I am going to nail them for a rental or they will hear from my lawyers! This is completely BS and they should and need to be all over this issue. All the other manufactures have done thier recalls, they need to suck it up and get some bad press if thats what it takes to warn people.

Ya just sue everyone! :2bitchsla That's what's wrong with people these days- always wanting to sue someone! :bs

Give them a chance to find the issue and correct it!

BTW- Mine has no issues and I only see about 10 people here who have this issue? out of how many bikes??

Give them a chance and quit bashing Yamaha! This is a Yamaha R1 site you know!

Originally posted by R1LOVER
Ya just sue everyone! :2bitchsla That's what's wrong with people these days- always wanting to sue someone! :bs

Give them a chance to find the issue and correct it!

BTW- Mine has no issues and I only see about 10 people here who have this issue? out of how many bikes??

Give them a chance and quit bashing Yamaha! This is a Yamaha R1 site you know!

Wait until it's your bike having the problem. I took my bike in and they did nothing. They did not take it apart or anything. They just rode it for 60 miles! I could have done that myself!

If you have the problem, can you post the last 4 digits of your serial#...it is the build number

Mine is 0527...we can probably track it as to the early build bikes maybe....please post yours and your mileage.

Thanks...
Build#0527
mileage=13,500km

00048 - NO PROBLEMS AT ALL! :thumbup So leave the early bikes out of it! :lol :lol


2000 miles - no problems

Not to be part of the peanut gallery, but I feel compelled to contribute....Firstly I made a point of contacting a friend and service manager at my local dealer. Off the recored he said he had not heard of anything undue except for the clutch problems some encountered... FYI. However I said some were encountering this issue. He has called some people/friends in Cypress @ Yamaha HQ so they are on notice there and I asked he refer this thread to them for review. I hope they do-

Secondly and ironically in a limited production car I have we had a similiar problem with stall and idle, again ironically. Sooted TPS and IAS sensors.... the result peculiar low idle oscillation and in rare cases, stalling. Given Eyespy was injured (hope you are well) and this could have dangerous repercussions, if the TPS is available mechanically to be shot out with TBI cleaner this could remedy the situation as it did on my vehicle... I hope this helps; and pending word on anything I will pass it on... good luck to you guys with this gremlins in the 04 R1's

Originally posted by R1LOVER
Ya just sue everyone! :2bitchsla That's what's wrong with people these days- always wanting to sue someone! :bs

Give them a chance to find the issue and correct it!

BTW- Mine has no issues and I only see about 10 people here who have this issue? out of how many bikes??

Give them a chance and quit bashing Yamaha! This is a Yamaha R1 site you know!

Sueing is merely a last case scenario to instill momentum and cause in delivering a result. It isn't as flippant as you suggest. Lemon laws protect all people and in a world of inflated corporate disregard. If done in this case I feel this is appropriate. Legal recourse is a threat and just that, and starting with a letter from a lawyer is the first step in being respected as a consumer and customer. Sueing a company often never happens but here in California the threat of it often gets the reward of resolve that isn't unreasonable to expect....It is to bad we/us have to go there but the system is structured to help us out...sometimes....just my 2cts

# 011282

Current Km: 14,500
Started acting up like described in this thread: 10,000 Km

Originally posted by xdonniedarkox
Sueing is merely a last case scenario to instill momentum and cause in delivering a result. It isn't as flippant as you suggest. Lemon laws protect all people and in a world of inflated corporate disregard. If done in this case I feel this is appropriate. Legal recourse is a threat and just that, and starting with a letter from a lawyer is the first step in being respected as a consumer and customer. Sueing a company often never happens but here in California the threat of it often gets the reward of resolve that isn't unreasonable to expect....It is to bad we/us have to go there but the system is structured to help us out...sometimes....just my 2cts


I agree with you on this, although when reading th eoriginal post it sounds like it is meant for a monatary gain only. This seems to be the norm in Ca, I do completely agree with you on your statement! :thumbup

Can someone try cleaning the TPS sensors as suggested from the post above? I am assuming that this is possible. I would try it but I am currently testing another suggested "fix".

Can someone post exactly what the TPS sensors (both of them) actually do? Where are they located? How do the sensors get the input i.e. is there exposed parts that the cleaner will clean out?
I have a general understanding but if there is a mechanic here or someone with hands on knowledge, that would be great.

Thank You everyone for your assistance with this issue...stay safe.

WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO POST A HIGH MILEAGE (more than 8,000km) 2004 R1 WITHOUT THIS PROBLEM. ANYONE?

build#
mileage

Originally posted by r1rider871
The 03 R6 has a bulliten on bad coils. Take your VIN to the dealer and they can cehck it for you. The problem was the coils were cracking and arcing on the frame. if it feels like its running on 3 cylinders then thats the issue. They will replace them for free.

r1rider871, it is not the coils, I have triple checked, own the euro version with the good coils, and I just pulled my plugs 2 days ago for a routine check showing 4 great looking plugs. I am positive that the TPS was the issue and it was the same intermittent fault at idle symtoms.

To clean the TPS, u have to get it off the throttle bodies first as the exposed part is facing the engine. Security screws will stand in your way, figure out to get those out yourselves if you don't have the tool, but they have no loctite so it makes things quite a bit easier. Either mark the factory set angle with a fine tip marker or refer to manual/diagnostic mode for your recommended/current TPS set range. This is critical, but for my R6, it's all in the manual and it should be for the r1, no sweat.

With the TPS out, flip it over to the side that fits over the TB shaft and you'll see a central rotor rotating within the housing, with a fairly large gap. Squirt the contact cleaner in that gap and give it a good scrubbing by rotating the rotor lock to lock a few times. Clean up and fit back, adjust angle according to original settings.

Well I'm not totally in disagreement with the TPS senerio but explain why cycling the ignition key off to on cures the low idle? I seriously doubt a sensor is causing the problem. I could argue a poor wire or pin termination, or maybe the ECU. Geez could the ECU board be flakey?

My ride acted up the first time at 7000 miles. Then again at 9500! 2500 miles inbetween it ran fine, that's not easy to troubleshoot. Ambient temperature was cool both times. If someone could narrow it down to a "fuel cutout" or a over fuel condition that would be a start. I'm not sure but, mine seems like it runs way rich when the idle drifts low. Got to be a fuel injection problem right? Damnit I sure as hell don't want the beootch to shutoff out in the middle of nowhere.........and I'd like to see some kind of resolution prior the end of the warranty period.

Here's my Ser # 003614 Mileage in 9800.

Chris

I had a new ECU put in...the problem happened again.
It was not the ECU. My guess as to why you need to cycle the key is this.
THe ECU must at some point get a bad reading therefore shutting the bike off. WHen you cycle the power, it resets something and makes the system check itself. I am very surprised that your problem is very intermittent. FOr me, the problem just got worse. Guranteed to shut down at least once a day. At one point it shut off 5 times in less than 5 min when I was leaving my house. I had it towed.
UNFORTUNATELY YAMAHA OR DEALER does not seem to be moving fast enough to solve this problem. FOr example, by now if any of us called them---they should acknowledge the problem but they still don't. Yamaha US not the dealers alone.

CAN SOMEONE HOOKUP A RECORDING DEVICE AND RIDE WITH IT?

YAMAHA---HAVE SOME DEALERS CONNECT SOMETHING TO THE ecu TO TRACK WHAT THE BIKE DOES As IT IS RUNNING---THEREFORE YOU CAN GET SOME READOUT WHEN IT SHUTS DOWN. i THINK THE ecu IS RESET THEREFORE loosing any possible temp code.

Think of it this way---you know a hard drive will die shortly when you hear that loud pitch sound comming from them-but nothing will tell you that until the drive is dead and then the system tells you unable to find drive.

STILL WAITING FOR A BIKE WITH MORE THAN 8000 MILES OR KM WITHOUT THIS PROBLEM? anyone----

Got my TPS's today, they will be installed tomorrow... all under warranty...

Just want to let all you know that are thinking trade in. Dealer in the Jersey area is offering $7500 on an 04 with Micron slip ons mint condition with (at the time) 5000 miles on it. Paid $11700 out the door from same dealership with a 3 year extended warranty. I got ripped!!!, and now they're trying to f&*# me again. Anyway, don't try it.
Chavez.

Speeder, good to know the ECU swap made no difference. I have this feeling that the problem is going to be something simple. Electricity and controls are my life, having said that I have limited knowledge of motorcycle electronics and controls. It's typical to overlook the obvious when troubleshooting problems like the ones described in this post. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the problem comes down to a poor wire connection or a poor battery ground connection. A momentary low voltage condition to a sensor or control could be the culprit. I'm going to go through the wiring and all of the plug connections on my ride this weekend.

For the record my bike has never shut off, just a brief hesitation and the 800 RPM idle issue. If I crack or change the throttle position during the hick-up period the bike pulls normally! My bike acts up at a steady state throttle setting regardless of speed.

I agree, it would be nice to know if Yamaha is investigating the problem. You'll probably know when they come out with a Product Service Bulletin............

C

Well, replaced the TPS's on Friday and it made no difference. The bike is still all jacked up. Hesitates, stalls, shoots flame and a little smoke, like it's really rich. You know, all the good stuff just like before. Replacing the ECU next, since it's not my dime.



BTW, I love it when my posts get deleted... makes me post more!

Keep deleting my posts and I won't tell you what the fix is when I find it! Since I'm taking action and not just bitchin' and waiting for someone else to....:thumbup

MY PROBLEM IS SOLVED---FIXED
Thanks for telling us that.

Now I know what the fix is, at least for my problem which seems to be the same as alot of you.

I have been testing my bike for close to 1000km.

It has a new ECU and matching throttle body. THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU. Any mechanics here that can explain whats on the throttle body?

The weather has cooled down here but it was fairly warm today (22c-but cool).

I ran it in traffic for1.5 hours today plus another hour at night.
It is running very well now. The fan was running at 105c hit 108c and still ran fine in traffic moving less than 30kmh.

BUT, what if we get the same crappy part that will act up in another 6000km....hmm

P.S. Your posts were probably deleted because it did not fit the format of the information requested. just my 2 cents...cuz I am not a moderator.

Good Luck everyone.
WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR AN ORIGINAL BIKE WITH MORE THAN 8000KM AND NO ISSUES....ANYONE

Originally posted by Speeder2
Thanks for telling us that.

Now I know what the fix is, at least for my problem which seems to be the same as alot of you.

I have been testing my bike for close to 1000km.

It has a new ECU and matching throttle body. THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU. Any mechanics here that can explain whats on the throttle body?

The weather has cooled down here but it was fairly warm today (22c-but cool).

I ran it in traffic for1.5 hours today plus another hour at night.
It is running very well now. The fan was running at 105c hit 108c and still ran fine in traffic moving less than 30kmh.

BUT, what if we get the same crappy part that will act up in another 6000km....hmm

P.S. Your posts were probably deleted because it did not fit the format of the information requested. just my 2 cents...cuz I am not a moderator.

Good Luck everyone.
WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR AN ORIGINAL BIKE WITH MORE THAN 8000KM AND NO ISSUES....ANYONE

Werent you the same guy that was telling everyone not to post if they didnt have the problem? There's plenty of bikes that hve over 8000Km and no problems...Do a search on the guy who put on 8600 miles on his bike cuz it was his first one...

I'd say there's aA LOT of bikes that are running fine. When I don;t have a rpoblem I USUALY don't look at a post

That doens't let yamaha off the hook though, they shoul dbe accountable for the faulty units by the Various state Lemon Laws, there are now just too many reported cases

I talked to my attourney yesterday and he is doing some research.

Just for the record I don;t have any problems, my build number is on the sig.

And Speeder you should edit their first post with ALL the reported affected models build numbers. And a clear consise explanation of the problem, detail of service visits and document numbers to back it up. This info is scattered all over the place.

Like riding, you adjust based on the conditions.
If you noticed another member asked the questions.
Ok-your 1 rider with no problems and the rest of us...

Dam-how old are some of you guys...

If I sound ticked---I am not---I just can't stand negative ppl.

SO---here comes the adjustment----
IF YOU HAVE A BIKE WITH MORE THAN 8000KM (ABOUT 7000 MILES OR SO) AND YOU HAVE NO ISSUES-PLEASE POST.
BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW

1. YOUR BUILD # (LAST 5 DIGITS OF SERIAL/VIN #)
2. MILEAGE

YOU SEE, BY ME POSING MY QUESTIONS AND REQUESTING THE INFORMATION IN THE FORMAT I WANTED- I THINK I SOLVED THE PROBLEM FOR MY BIKE----hope it keeps working

I hope this helps you. I told Yamaha that they had 4 tries with their ideas---I am asked that we try 1 thing of mine....new tbody and ECU ....even if it did not work, we would have ruled out the tbody and ECU....Good Luck guys.

P.S. I f you look way back in another post, someone had there tbody replaced and it solved their problem also.
Good Luck guys. ..stay safe

YESTERDAY I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM AND ALMOST AT THE COST OF BECOMING THE HOOD ORNAMENT FOR SOME SICILIANS CAR. MY BUDDY AND I WAS SPLITING TRAFFIC AS IT IS LEGAL OUT HERE, AND I STARTED TO FEEL THE BIKE SPUTTER AND LIKE IN THE OTHER POSTS MY BIKE CUT OUT, HAD TO KEEP STARTING IT AND KEEPING THE IDLE HIGH TILL I COULD PULL OVER. I TURNED THE BIKE OFF AND LET IT SIT FOR A WHILE, THEN SHE FIRED UP AND IDLED NORMALLY, I ALSO USE MY BIKE TO COMMUTE TO AND FROM WORK, AND RIDING THROUGH TRAFFIC IS SICILY, ISN'T THE PLACE TO HAVE A BIKE CUTTING OUT ON ANYONE, SO I HOPE THE PROBLEM DOESN'T COME BACK FOR ME, HOWEVER IT STILL NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. THANKS TO ALL FOR PLACING THEIR THREADS. I'LL BE CONTACTING THE DEALER THAT I PURCHASED MY BIKE FROM AND IF I GAIN ANY INFO ON CONTACTING YAMAHA I'LL BE SURE TO SHARE.
MILAGE: 3029
LAST FIVE: 04168

Throttle Bodies ey.............

Can someone post a few drawings of the TB assemblies? What devices are attached? Why change the whole assembly?

Partial list of sensors and controls:

1) Position sensors
2) Butterfly servo? I might be all wrong on that but isn't the secondary butterfly controlled by a servo motor?
3) Injectors

What else is there? I believe we're making progress........

Good info fer shur. Damn this is the second time I've purchased a new model year bike. You would have thought I would have learned the first time. Seems like they put this stuff out in the market place too soon. "Oh well, we'll work out the bugs and correct it after the release".

KornKing

Speeder, I looked at the parts diagram exploded view (no pun intended) of the Throttle Body assembly. Here's a list of attached controls:

1) 273 Gear Motor - secondary butterfly plates servo motor
2) 273 Clip pipe ?????
3) 273 Case Starter ??????
4) Throttle Position Sensors
5) Injectors
6) The fuel rail PSI should be controlled by the fuel pump.

That's about it, I believe.

I'm starting to suspect the secondary butteryfly servo. Are they intermitantly closing? Are they partially closed in the "low idle" condition? I assume they are voltage or current controlled by the ECU. Could be a 4-20ma or 0-10Vdc control signal. You know a poor current path to the servo will cause all kinds of problems. Just guessing at this point.

The primary throttle plates are cable actuated.

Other sensors & controls:

1) Jacket water temp - cold start signal
2) Cam position
3) Crank Position
4) Exhaust Valve servo motor
5) Air Temp sensor

I understand how/why the secondary butterfly plates operate so if you what more detail let me know. My hypothesis could be all wrong, just throwing out ideas. At least it seems like we're starting to narrow it down. That's good.

KK

My R1 is at 7500 miles now and no probs. I thought i felt surging at cruising speed because chain has tight spots in it so I had my bro/yamaha mechanic ride it and he says the bike is very smooth, just a little "bubbly' because front tire has tire rot and is cupping.

gonna try and warranty me another chain....given the torque the bike puts out he says to expect chain probs with stock parts...

I have a specific test for you guys to try. You will need to do the exact conversion or switch your speedo to dispaly km instead of miles.

Test.
4th gear at 118-120kmh
ride at 5500rpm then slowly move to 6000rpm and hold it in the range for 1 min.
Do this afew times.

Now, if you feel the bike surge (you will know) then you can know the following:
1. too lean
2. exup out of adjustment
3. possible TPS or Throttle body problems

The bike should run SMOOTH- if it does not-you have 1 or all of t3 problems above.

Please post back and let me know how yours did. You can also use this test to see if they fix your problem when they work on your bikes.

Later.

Speeder, you need to be more specific. How can the mixture be too lean? What if my bike runs smooth under your prescribed tests then in a few hundred miles it starts hesitating and the idle drops down? You lost me. Make the connection between the original problem and what you are saying above. There's no way the hestitation issue is caused by a miss adjustment. There may be a connection with item #3 but I don't see how your test will make that diagnosis. My ride runs great right up until it begins to stumble and the stumble/hestitation typically doesn't last too long. I have this feeling it's going to get worse.


C

hope this clears it up
1. when a bike surges---it usually means it running lean
2. the test is for locking in on th eproblem, if we all have the exact problem when we are in 4th gear then it just confirms and makes it easier.

They would have to hookup your bike to test for rich or lean.
My test is informal but I am looking for something. I want to know if you guys experience the same thing.

Hey, Yamaha seems lost. At least lets try things that are on the path and we will perhaps narrow it down further. The least we will do is provide consistent information on the problem.

Hope this helps dude. Have you tested this yet?
CHeers!

My ride's not running lean, it's momentarily falling on it face and losing the idle, periodically. In order to get some worth while exhaust gas data you'd have to have a gas analyzer on the bike monitoring it as it goes into convulsions, then you'd know what's going on. I don't believe my bike is running lean prior point were it dies. It may be that the fuel injection is shutting off "momentarily" and causing the hesitation but that wouldn't show up as" lean" in typically riding.

Speeder2 wrote:
"It has a new ECU and matching throttle body. THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU."

Question: did changing the throttle bodies on your ride cure the problem or not? Need to follow-up on that corrective measure.........

Thanks

C

I have had my completely standard '04 R1 do this to me a couple of times when going to pull away from an intersection. I thought it was just me not riding the bike properly as I have an XJR1300 as well with a lot more torque down low. It also wouldn't start untill I turned it off with the key and then back on. I thought it was odd that you would need to turn the bike off and on again to restart after an ordinary stall. I almost dropped the bike on one occasion when it did this. After reading the posts I can see that it describes what it did perfectly with the whining shut down sound. I haven't had the surging problems though. It has about 4000km's on it now.

MY PROBLEM IS SOLVED---FIXED
Thanks for telling us that.

Now I know what the fix is, at least for my problem which seems to be the same as alot of you.

I have been testing my bike for close to 1000km.

It has a new ECU and matching throttle body. THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU. Any mechanics here that can explain whats on the throttle body?

The weather has cooled down here but it was fairly warm today (22c-but cool).

I ran it in traffic for1.5 hours today plus another hour at night.
It is running very well now. The fan was running at 105c hit 108c and still ran fine in traffic moving less than 30kmh.

BUT, what if we get the same crappy part that will act up in another 6000km....hmm

P.S. Your posts were probably deleted because it did not fit the format of the information requested. just my 2 cents...cuz I am not a moderator.

Good Luck everyone.
WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR AN ORIGINAL BIKE WITH MORE THAN 8000KM AND NO ISSUES....ANYONE

i have not read all post but,
mine.. 3200miles, 100% stock
When sitting at light or in traffic and bike has heated up, she will sometimes hesitates and then when I apply gas she will stall.. DANGEROUS in traffic, almost been rear ended a couple times now.. I Immediately start to crank the engine and she will take a little bit and then light up. Please YAMAHA we purchased the best bike on the market for a reason, don't make us liars/disbelievers or even worse, crippled.
Len

ps:

All Maintenance done through dealers, run 93 octane 100% of the time, oil is yamalube.

If there is a problem please PM me or post here as I ride hard corners here in philly, my ride shuts off during one of these corners Im done.
Len:fork

Originally posted by r1rider871
I am adding to this thread from my old thread.

I have some serious problems with the 04 today. On the way to work at about 70mph my bike starts lurching. Feels like a fuel problem, but its cutting out. Then when you get on it no problem at all. It still runs like a beast, but then a came to my first stop after that and idle drops to half and then it dies. Did this for the next 25 miles or so. I adjusted the idle and it was ok for about half that and now it doing it even at 15mph. Just lurching bad.

I am thinking it could be bad gas or something. I am going to change gas stations after I run it out and see if this is the issue.

Anyone had this problem yet? My mods are listed in my sig which I did like a 1000 miles ago and I have no errors on the dash, so I don't think they could be cuasing this.

I have to add to this because I was having the same exact problem with my 02, and now my 04, I boiled down the problem to YOSHIMURA "EMS", because of the tunning, the thing would just lunge, I thought it was cutting out but only for a fraction of a second, so I went back to my buddy's at Yosh and had then retune it, then it ran great. They thought it was due to the timing witch they did not mess with, but EMS has advancer in it. kinda like the pcIIIr, so we unplugged it and remapped and now nothing on my 02, as for the 04, I just couldn't take that chance so I just got rid of the EMS all in all, and got a power commander, I have not noticed my 04 do this yet, so I hope it is fine. I'm curious so I am going to follow this thread closely for updates; good luck fellas:scared

Originally posted by Speeder2
I have a specific test for you guys to try. You will need to do the exact conversion or switch your speedo to dispaly km instead of miles.

Test.
4th gear at 118-120kmh
ride at 5500rpm then slowly move to 6000rpm and hold it in the range for 1 min.
Do this afew times.

Now, if you feel the bike surge (you will know) then you can know the following:
1. too lean
2. exup out of adjustment
3. possible TPS or Throttle body problems

The bike should run SMOOTH- if it does not-you have 1 or all of t3 problems above.

Please post back and let me know how yours did. You can also use this test to see if they fix your problem when they work on your bikes.

Later.

wow you nailed it, that is exactly the rpm range that was giving me the problem, (on both of my bikes, the 02 &04???? WTF: but like I said the ems was my problem "I thought", I now have the pcIIIusb and have not had the problem since installing, and have put about 1k miles since. I have a full yosh exhaust. and that's it. Dam I will be so pissed if it happens again, because I don't pay for the yosh stuff and I had to pay for the pcIIIusb, only because I was convinced it was better. shit they better be right. Sorry for the post if this doesn't shed some light, but my bike is running fine, so far??? no more stalling or surging. thank god. 04r1 4k miles US california orange co. (#0069). ????? does any one think the AIS unit might have anything to do with it. My buddy has an 04, w/ pcIIIusb no AIS and full yosh exhaust, tuned like a bat out of hell, I mean supper smoth, I can't stand it because my bike was tuned @ Yosh and it only ran good for a little while, I am going to get Mine tuned Monday Oct 4, @ the same place that did my buddys bike, I'll talk to them to see if they know any thing, and post up some air fuel readings if there is anything to tell. Good luck.:dunno

THe problem lies with something on the throttle body since it has alot of sensors and connections and not the ECU since this is now the 3rd ECU. Any mechanics here that can explain whats on the throttle body?


Well,there are 2 TPS ...not much else besides the injectors.
Its all mechanical after that.

Maybe a sensor or two,but I never stopped looking at them closely.

Replacing the 2 TPS sensors did absolutely nothing for me.

As I posted on page 5 here's a list of devices that are attached to the Throttle Body Assembly:

1) 273 Gear Motor - secondary butterfly plates servo motor ????
2) 273 Clip pipe ?????
3) 273 Case Starter ??????
4) Throttle Position Sensors ?????
5) Injectors ????
6) The fuel rail PSI should be controlled by the fuel pump

According to Speeder2 changing the Throttle Body Assm. solved the problem. If that's the case then we need to look into the 273 Gear Motor (secondary butterfly servo) or the injector operation. If at all possible try not to complicate the issue. If simply changing the TB's cured the hesitation then I'd tend to think all the other sensors & controls (not connected to the TB's) are functioning correctly. Go look at the Yamaha parts detail of the TB's.

Yamaha will have the fix for this soon....
:lol


KK

:corn good find. im sure youll let us know if when yamaha does something about it.

Here's the link to the parts diagram of the Throttle Body Assembly

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/501_2451/intake_2/intake_2.cfm

My bike is getting worse. I didnt make it out of the hood before it cut off on me. There was one time two days ago where it idled at 2100 rpm's. That was odd. It does it when its hot and cold. At th beggining of a ride and at the end. While riddind hard and taking it easy.
I will not be taking my bike to Yamaha to have them rip my bike apart and instal a new defective part. Whats the point? Its obvious that there needs to be a RECALL on one of their parts. So why even take the bike to the dealer to have them instal a bad one? I will ride my bike until Yamaha finds a way to fix the problem and does a RECALL on it.
And Yamaha, you need to fix this crap. Dont be afraid to do a recall right before your release of the '05 models. If you fix the problem we will continue to buy your products. But if you don't, you will for sure loose some loyal customers like myself to another manufacture.

Word.

Originally posted by aaask8tr
My bike is getting worse. I didnt make it out of the hood before it cut off on me. There was one time two days ago where it idled at 2100 rpm's. That was odd. It does it when its hot and cold. At th beggining of a ride and at the end. While riddind hard and taking it easy.
I will not be taking my bike to Yamaha to have them rip my bike apart and instal a new defective part. Whats the point? Its obvious that there needs to be a RECALL on one of their parts. So why even take the bike to the dealer to have them instal a bad one? I will ride my bike until Yamaha finds a way to fix the problem and does a RECALL on it.
And Yamaha, you need to fix this crap. Dont be afraid to do a recall right before your release of the '05 models. If you fix the problem we will continue to buy your products. But if you don't, you will for sure loose some loyal customers like myself to another manufacture.

:no if i were you id take it to the dealer so they know that YOU too have a problem before you warranty runs out.:epimp

Recalls are forever bro. I got a recall on a defective part for my '93 Jeep G.C. last year. It was on the shifter linkage. They said there was a possibility for it to pop out of park if you left it running, resulting in a crash. So they did a recall. Yamaha will do a recall as soon as they find time for it in their schedule.

i think this problem should take priority over alot of things in thier schedule. as staed before, this is a safety issue.

I think we're going to see more bikes with this problem as the mileage increases. I agree, I'm not takin my ride to the dealer so that they can experiment with fixes. I'll let Yamaha figure it out first.

A week ago my ride was lurching at 80-90mph for 10-15 minutes. As if the ignition cut off momentarly, then nothing for the rest of the day! Nutty! Rode it yesterday and it ran fine.

I'm sure Yamaha's looking into it.............

Guys,
Would you mind picking 1 day--say Wed at 2pm your timezone (after everyone is back from lunch from Yamaha)
Now we all call at that time and start complaining---tell them you want a reference# and or a email addy to send your problem to.

This will achieve the following:
1. THEY WILL now KNOW
2. you can start harracing them until they admit to the problem
3. you have a legal way to protect yourself for warranty

WHat do you guys think? THen call your dealer also.
WE are divided right now and they know that---but is we all "attackec" together, the problem gets solved ASAP and maybe you save your own life.

Good Luck...stay safe

Are Yamkaha trying to duck warantee claims becasue of alterations such as Power Commander No cat Y poiece races cans etc???

Have problem in UK just replaced ECU carb bodies a weeks ago, problem now returned. Bike off road a month now and back in shop. Will hit Yamaha for full refund or new bike. This is cojones!!!

Originally posted by TimHala
Are Yamkaha trying to duck warantee claims becasue of alterations such as Power Commander No cat Y poiece races cans etc???

Have problem in UK just replaced ECU carb bodies a weeks ago, problem now returned. Bike off road a month now and back in shop. Will hit Yamaha for full refund or new bike. This is cojones!!!

Timhala, just to clearify, are you sure they changed the Throttle Bodies and not the Throttle Position Sensors? Check this out.

This is from another post on this forum talking about the hesitation and low idle: "I did get my bike fixed-up -- they had to replace the throttle bodies (that was back in April) and I've not had a problem since."

More evidence that something in the Throttle Bodies is the culprit.

Speeder2, I'll call those wanks @ Yamaha on Wednesday to express my frustration. I'd like to know if this issue is being addressed!

KK

Who knows the bike owner is a girl and most of the wankers she talks to say anything that enters there fing head. She is afraid of making enemies and wont let me get on with the job of sorting things.

The mechanic in the shop says he cant tell her whats been done and she should refer to the manager who is a flash dude who thinks he is the best think since sliced break. I've told her to get a written statement of whats been done but he fobs her off!!!

This is bollocks! There are no friends in business!

No doubt if she was ugly she wouldnt have any problems!!

Originally posted by TimHala
Who knows the bike owner is a girl and most of the wankers she talks to say anything that enters there fing head. She is afraid of making enemies and wont let me get on with the job of sorting things.

The mechanic in the shop says he cant tell her whats been done and she should refer to the manager who is a flash dude who thinks he is the best think since sliced break. I've told her to get a written statement of whats been done but he fobs her off!!!

This is bollocks! There are no friends in business!

No doubt if she was ugly she wouldnt have any problems!!

Yea bloody right then, send me some pics so I can see for myself, pics of the girl that is....:p

Why would changing the TB assembly cure the problem? What component on THE assembly is flakey? If it was up to me I'd replace the components 1 at a time and test it. Geez there isn't much on the assembly that can go wrong. The TPS have already been eliminated as a cause. It should not be that difficult to figure out. It'd be nice if someone with a thorough handle on the fuel system would weigh-in on this discussion, hello!

KK

Originally posted by kornking
Yea bloody right then, send me some pics so I can see for myself, pics of the girl that is....:p

Why would changing the TB assembly cure the problem? What component on THE assembly is flakey? If it was up to me I'd replace the components 1 at a time and test it. Geez there isn't much on the assembly that can go wrong. The TPS have already been eliminated as a cause. It should not be that difficult to figure out. It'd be nice if someone with a thorough handle on the fuel system would weigh-in on this discussion, hello!

KK


So you would strip the bike down to the throttle bodies, replace a part, put it back together and ride it until it acts up, and repeat as necessary until you find the actual part? Go right ahead!
If the throttle bodies are the fault, you can go replace parts one by one, I say replace the throttle bodies so that the people who actually own the bikes can ride them. Like me!

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
So you would strip the bike down to the throttle bodies, replace a part, put it back together and ride it until it acts up, and repeat as necessary until you find the actual part? Go right ahead!
If the throttle bodies are the fault, you can go replace parts one by one, I say replace the throttle bodies so that the people who actually own the bikes can ride them. Like me!

Who know if the new throttle bodies they're putting on aren't going to go after 5000 miles as well????? ARE THEY DIFFERENT?

sry if it was covered

" So you would strip the bike down to the throttle bodies, replace a part, put it back together and ride it until it acts up, and repeat as necessary until you find the actual part? Go right ahead!"

Ruff, speaking of flakey....... yep that's what I'm talkin bout........

Yea, replace only the electrical control components on the throttle bodies the could be causing the problem in lew of changing the WHOLE assembly. For instants how about changing just the secondary servo motor and test it. Then if that doesn't fix it change the 273 Case Starter and so on. It would take about 1 fookin hour to change those small components 1 at a time. Changing the TB may fix the problem but you still don't know what the real cause was.

"Who know if the new throttle bodies they're putting on aren't going to go after 5000 miles as well????? ARE THEY DIFFERENT?"

That's right, you may be getting the same defective component back on the new TB's the dealer just installed.........

Okay, lemme see...

Bike is broke and stays broke until the exact component is discovered or replace the throttle body so I can ride the bike now and take the chance that the problem is discovered in the next 5000miles.


I choose option B. I want my bike back.

The IMPORTANCE of this issue is being trivialised by RUFFSTUFF and others that think it's no big deal.

This is a very DANGEROUS problem. It can get you KILLED.
by stating that you will just put up with it---why would Yamaha rush to recall or fix it asap when ppl will "put up with it"

I am not sure how old some of you are but Big Business does not care about you until you are DEAD and your family is suing them for big bucks...well at least you will have a nicer gravestone.

IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM, TAKE IT SERIOUSLY. EYESPY GOT HURT AT THE TRACK WHEN HIS BIKE SHUT OFF IN A CORNER-
IT CAN KILL YOU.

I agree with KornKing---It is too expensive for them to replace throttle body and ECU for everyone. So Yamaha will be reluctant to replace the whole item and MAKE the dealer try one part at a time so they can find the $100 part to replace instead of the $2000 parts.

DO WE REALLY BELIEVE THAT YAMAHA GIVES A CRAP IF YOU ARE LOYAL OR NOT--- LIKE OTHER BUSINESS---GIVE US YOUR MONEY AND SHUT UP.

DOES ANYONE HAVE A FRIEND THAT WORKS FOR A TV STATION OR NEWSPAPER?

Originally posted by Speeder2
The IMPORTANCE of this issue is being trivialised by RUFFSTUFF and others that think it's no big deal.



Get over yourself, Chicken Little... the sky isn't falling.

Originally posted by Speeder2
The IMPORTANCE of this issue is being trivialised by RUFFSTUFF and others that think it's no big deal.



Get over yourself, Chicken Little... the sky isn't falling.

how nice---name calling---chicken little

remember a few posts back you were critical of someone not having such a great Dealer as yours...

hmmm---my bike is fixed---did your great dealer fix yours yet---

keep posting, at least I will know you did not get rear ended or run over by a car or mac truck because your bike shuts off infront of them...

stay safe---:riding

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Okay, lemme see...

Bike is broke and stays broke until the exact component is discovered or replace the throttle body so I can ride the bike now and take the chance that the problem is discovered in the next 5000miles.


I choose option B. I want my bike back.

Geez I never thought of it that way Ruffbob, your gawddamn genius!!!!

Try staying away from the Georgia moonshine for a day or two. :2bitchsla

KK

Damn, looks like I'm outnumbered here. That's okay, you guys are idiots. All I said is that I'm getting the throttle body replaced instead of spending the time to find whatever component may be faulty. Whatever the problem is I'm sure it's pretty universal to the 2004's so even with a TB replacement it may come back.

Have a nice life.

You guys are ruining this thread

OK my bad, please excuse my flippant remark. I'll try to keep this discussion civil.

Ruff, update the post after you have your TB's swapped.

KK

i hope yamaha is working on a recall. My bike will be out of warranty by time the defect arises for me, next season :(

Retail price for the TB's is around $850.00!

Well chalk up another R1 that doesn't run right. I was out on the twisties and just exited a corner (thankfully) and the thing just turned off. Then 1/2 a sec. later the thing turned on and I had full power again. The tach did it's sweep and the lights on the instrument cluster all lighted up. I first thought I hit the kill switch accidentally when coming up from my lean and then switched it back in the same instant. Then a few miles down the road it did the same thing like three times in a row. This time I was just crusin down a strait stretch so I know I didn't hit the kill switch. I don't even want to imagine what would happen if I was agressively in a turn and the thing just shut off like that and then turned back on.:dunno This doesn't sound like the same stalling problem that everyone else is having but I just thought I'd mention it. There is absolutely no warning, it just shuts off and then turns on Oh yeah I have 5.600 miles.

Hey Con - You may want to check this thread out:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91681

your post reminded me of this problem. Probably worth looking into.

hey con,
My bike did that once also--well twice 10 seconds apart.
I was on the highway and it just turned off---night time---dash went off too--all the lights went off
i coasted to the side while rolling---i turned the key off then on--it started
THEN it did it again 10 seconds later, everything off but when i pulled in the clutch and let it out-it restarted. I was going 140kmh with a passenger. Scary stuff-I know-No Warning---just turns off.
I did check my wiring harness---no problems.
It never did it again, but thaey did change the ECU to try and fix the other problem. I have probably logged more than 3000km since the mysterious shut off and it never did it again. Keep in mind I have a new ECU and new Throttle body.

Have them check your bike also to see if it is running lean, who knows.The computer probably gets screwed up with the other problem and shuts off for some reason.

Good luck...stay safe

Yep, it's the same problem that's been beat to death here. Fer Shur.

My ride's hasn't totally died with the throttle above idle but it's had it's share of very un-nerving hesitations. Still waiting for it to die at speed.

The numbers are growing.

KK

Mine only ever died when at idle or when I abruptly closed the throttle, never while on the gas.

Bomber_man thanks for the thread. I remember reading that thread earlier however but I was thinking that was for my FZ-1 mot the R1. and I couldn't remember where to look on the bikes. I will definitely check that out. You are a life saver...literally!:jump :bow

HICK-UP BLUES QUESTION: has anyone had their ECU fault codes checked yet? For those who have had their rides in the shop did the tech check the fault codes? I'm curious if there are logged codes and if so what are the code numbers. I'll prolly run by the shop sometime this week to have mine checked.

KK

no fault codes with 2 ECU's

Build #xxxxx621...Havent had a problem with this as of yet..(foot fingers crossed:D )


13000ks

Cheers

Here are the codes just my 2 cents

i was all excited to get an '04 R1, but after seeing all of this, I think im going to look into the 10R. At least Kawasaki realized there is a problem with their wheels and recalled them. Yami cant even do that

Originally posted by BottleRocket
i was all excited to get an '04 R1, but after seeing all of this, I think im going to look into the 10R. At least Kawasaki realized there is a problem with their wheels and recalled them. Yami cant even do that :sleep

Originally posted by BottleRocket
i was all excited to get an '04 R1, but after seeing all of this, I think im going to look into the 10R. At least Kawasaki realized there is a problem with their wheels and recalled them. Yami cant even do that

I feel ya on that bro. i have own 3 yamaha r1's and i have never seen them really stand behind there stuff like kaws and zuks. dont get me wrong i love my 04 r1, but if i could have done it all over again, i would have waited for them to work out the issues first.

Originally posted by Firetank
Here are the codes just my 2 cents


That's a few of the fault codes, not all.................

I should have an update on this issue soon.

KK

My 04 has just a lil over 8,000 miles & I don't have this problem(thank god).

Originally posted by Bomber_Man
Hey Con - You may want to check this thread out:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91681

your post reminded me of this problem. Probably worth looking into.

:iamwithst :iamwithst :iamwithst

You guys need to check this out! It may be your problem!:fact

Sticky this.

Yamaha has wrapped the wire harness for the instrument cluster around a sharp metal edge in the "crotch" of the fairing stay. It is retained with a plastic tie strap. Pull your windscreen and look straight down between the low beam headlight housings and you'll see what I'm talking about. Mine rubbed through and started popping the ignition fuse at random. It seemed temperature sensitive and defied the wiggle test. It was not water-sensitive. Bumps did not give it away. It only happened on hot days in heavy traffic.

Imagine riding along in the middle lane of a 5-lane freeway with a loaded tractor-trailer rig on your ass and the bike suddenly shuts off with no warning and won't restart. And you've got no brake lights or turn signals. And your left hand holding the clutch in is the only thing keeping you out from under the tractor's front bumper so at best you can only signal with your right hand.

Or on the track banked over to the edge of the tire in a corner at 160 mph with all your weight forward because you've got the throttle pinned and the bike suddenly shuts off and throws all your weight onto the front tire and you low-side into a concrete wall.

I traced and repaired the damaged tan-ish colored wire in the harness, re-wrapped it, and reinstalled it with the OEM plastic tie-wrap. I cut about a 3/4" long section of 5/16" fuel hose and slipped it over the sharp metal edge before tightening it back down so it can't happen again.

I'd recommend that you fix your bikes before you become a road stain.

I'll try to up-load some pics.



Click on the link above for the pictures - you may be suprised!

Has anyone had this problem with a professonaly dyno mapped bike? It sounds like a jetting problem for most I had this kind of problem with my R6 wondered if the R1 might have the same kind of problem before I do tear into it. It happened when the bike was very warm and wnet away when the bike was cooled down again and feels like a classic jetting problem.

I did go through the diagnostics and the throttle position sensor was off full closed indicated 17% open per the sensor- that could cause the bike to run rich. There was also too little diffrence between the atmosphric and throttle body pressure. No no significant error code were noted beond a throotle body pressure error code that wnet away and stayed away after being cleared. Man good thing you guys havent ben riding long this kind of thing was common 10 years ago.

Originally posted by kornking
That's a few of the fault codes, not all.................

I should have an update on this issue soon.

KK

Another one

Off topic warning:

I think im going to look into the 10R. At least Kawasaki realized there is a problem with their wheels and recalled them.

I would stay away from the 10r for now. The same problem with the wheels cracking has started to show up with the frames. One guy had a crack show up so they replaced the frame. Not long after that a truck ran a red light and he T'ed it at about 30mph...frame split clean into 2 peices.

Sorry about the off topic post.

Thanks for posting the codes! That anserews a question I had run into on my '02.

I had this same problem for the first time just a day ago. I was sitting in a long line of traffic barely moving when my bike just cut out. The fan was running at the time so the temp was somewhere around220F. I attempted to restart and it would until I let off the throttle. I did this 6 times and it finally started and maintained normal idle. (never shut key off). After about 5 min. of riding I slowed to a stop and idle was rough at about 500R.P.M and died again. Took many attempts but finally started. About 2 miles later I was going about 60 m.p.h, went to shift, when clutch was pulled in bike died. I did make it home. Will be bringing my bike to the dealer tomorrow. This is B.S.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SIN
[B]Has anyone had this problem with a professonaly dyno mapped bike?


Me.

FOR THE LAST TIME-STOP POSTING UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM OR HIGH MILEAGE (MORE THAN 8000KM) BIKE WITHOUT THE PROBLEM OR YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM SOLVED.

THE PROBLEM LIES WITH THE THROTTLE BODY. IT IS EITHER THE TPS SENSORS AND OR THE SERVO MOTOR FOR THE BUTTERFLIES.
THE PROBLEM IS ON THE THROTTLEBODY. DONT RISK YOU SAFETY BY THE DEALER GUESSING-CHANGE THE THROTTLEBODY AND ECU SINCE THEY ARE A MTCHED SET FROM MY UNDERSTANDING.

GOOD LUCK AND STAY SAFE
p.s. kornking---any info yet

Originally posted by Speeder2
FOR THE LAST TIME-STOP POSTING UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM OR HIGH MILEAGE (MORE THAN 8000KM) BIKE WITHOUT THE PROBLEM OR YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM SOLVED.

THE PROBLEM LIES WITH THE THROTTLE BODY. IT IS EITHER THE TPS SENSORS AND OR THE SERVO MOTOR FOR THE BUTTERFLIES.
THE PROBLEM IS ON THE THROTTLEBODY. DONT RISK YOU SAFETY BY THE DEALER GUESSING-CHANGE THE THROTTLEBODY AND ECU SINCE THEY ARE A MTCHED SET FROM MY UNDERSTANDING.

GOOD LUCK AND STAY SAFE
p.s. kornking---any info yet


If you would be nice - people would listen better!

Did you look into the wireing harness at the front headlamp assembly. ???? Please answer this question because it sound like the exact same symptoms! At least check it out and post your results...

R1lover, have you read through all of the postings? Your input is appreciated and I will check into the wiring issue, but I think we've established that the problem (as Speeder noted) is located on the throttlebody assembly. If your bike is hesitating and stalling then you owe it to yourself to read everything within this posting. Speeders point was to stay on the original topic. I'm going to write a report to submit to Yamaha so it's important to know how many bikes are suffering from the problem.

Yesterday I finished checking all of the fuel control sensors/servos and came up empty. I went through the whole damn bike. About the only problem I found was the EXUP adjustment, it was way off and that's not going to cause the hestitation. Everything appeared to function normally, including both throttle position sensors! I found NO fault codes or diagnostic errors. So at this point I'm sort of at a loss on the culprit.

Speeder, I haven't contacted Yamaha yet because I wanted to test all of the controls before I talk to them. I'll call them on Monday.


KK

kORNKING
YOu have establish that all is fine when the bike is started up. YOu have also established that the ECU does not catch the codes. My though on this is it has to be a mechanical part that is failing or something that is not monitored by the ECU or is after the ECU tracking.
The problem has to lie in the throttle body. As you know the problem is intermittent. So I think we probably need to find a way to test the electricals while you ride. I don't know if you have a simple tool that is small enough that would allow you to monitor this problem. The other possibility is, the servo motor could be flakey therefore not enough power to open and close the butterflies. I think you were on to it before but what we need is a simple explanation of the parts on the tbody and what they do. THen we can start ruling them out based on what they do and the problem that we have. I think that will put us very close to the exact cause.

IS IT POSSIBLE FOR YOU TO borrow or get a servo motor and test that....maybe from a crashed bike or someone else in your area with an R1. It would be great if someone in your area was able to assist you.

Hey-since you have your bike apart, assuming up on stands-start it. have someone disconnect items on the tbody and see what triggers error codes- I think you might find the problem with this method. THE PROBLEM HAS TO BE ON THE TBODY-since mine was replaced, it has been running fine. MAybe the bearings in the servo motor or butterfly is flakey is getting stuck---when you let off the throttle servo motor closes the butterflies-correct.

GOOD LUCK---anyone in KornKings area to assist?

THanks Everyone for contributing the information I requested and assisting.

P.S. For those of you that think that I am not being nice, ask yourself, why would I put this much effort into this considering my bike IS FIXED....

Speeder, right on brah. I need to unplug a device and see if the ECU flags a fault code. Why didn't I do that???? Stay tuned.

Check your PM..................

KK

Originally posted by kornking
Speeder, right on brah. I need to unplug a device and see if the ECU flags a fault code. Why didn't I do that???? Stay tuned.

Check your PM..................

KK


keep us posted, I am still reading this thread, and Im sure other are as well

anyone know if yamaha has fixed this for "05"?

NO---why would they fix something they don't admit to know is a problem or is treating it as a small few. THe small few are the ones with over 5000 miles on tehir bikes and the problems show up then.

My Advice-Wait-literally you will be safer.

My bike is fixed (so it seems) But I don't know if they used the same new "defective" parts that will fail later....

TRY this call Yamaha US-tell them you want to buy the 2005 R1-ask them if they fixed the problem with the 2004 shutting off. See if they admit that a problem exist...if they don't admit to you---tell them they are lieing and you will buy something else...

I wish I could wait but its too late. Got $$ down on the raven blk 05.
Yamaha has been good to me in the past. They have fixed parts on my older R1's even past the 1 yr warrantee. I will be doing more than calling them if it happens to my 05 and they refuse to fix it. Sounds like a great time to call a lawyer and get more than just my bike fixed.
Thanks for the advice on what to look for, this thread is full of useful info.
1 Question to the people who are having this problem
Is your R1 your daily transportation, or do you race it. I have found that my bikes preform much Diff. on the streets (in traffic and stuff)
than they do wide open all the time at the track.

Speeder/Kornking

I've been reading this thread since the beginning. I am with Woodman: waiting for a solution before puting my money down for a 05.

I do not mean to disturb the discussion, but I believe you should add another piece of info to your survey, besides mileage and serial #. I would be asking what kind of mods people have in their bikes. First because this could be used as an argument by Yamaha to justify the problems. Second because it seemed to me along the reading that many of the guys complaining had sometype of mod that could affect the parts you have been suspicious of.

Also, did you check the entire wiring system of your bike or just the harness under the bubble, as described in another post?

Originally posted by alexfs
Speeder/Kornking

I've been reading this thread since the beginning. I am with Woodman: waiting for a solution before puting my money down for a 05.

I do not mean to disturb the discussion, but I believe you should add another piece of info to your survey, besides mileage and serial #. I would be asking what kind of mods people have in their bikes. First because this could be used as an argument by Yamaha to justify the problems. Second because it seemed to me along the reading that many of the guys complaining had sometype of mod that could affect the parts you have been suspicious of.

Also, did you check the entire wiring system of your bike or just the harness under the bubble, as described in another post?

This happened to me stock and with mods and my wiring is fine. I am with the throttle body being the issue. I am now on 15,000 miles and still having issues since 5000 miles. Yamaha is draggin their a$$ on this one!

Yes, I know Yamaha is reading this too!
YAMAHA,
Why not just replace one of these bikes with a new one and use the bike you got back to troubleshoot the issue? I mean with the risk of lawsuits would this not be something you could do? Are you getting back these replaced parts and using them for testing? At least talk to your customers before you start losing them! Sorry, just needed to vent, but I made some very valid points didn't I?

Originally posted by r1rider871

Yes, I know Yamaha is reading this too!
yes you did make some valid points and I bet they are reading this too.
I just emailed them with the link to this thread. I thought it might get the ball rolling

:dunno
:fork

Guys,
HAte to sound negative here, but I don't think Yamaha really gives a crap. Call them then take your bike to your dealer...bet you the dealer tells you they NEVER heard of the problem.

Considering the amount of info I have gathered as well as some other good folks here...have they contacted me....NO.

BTW---they can give a flying ***** about the internet...they believe these forums are crap full of ppl wanting recalls and free shit...
Good Luck to you all. If you have afriend thats a lawyer or paralegal---draft aletter and send it to them.

stay safe
the problem lies with the THROTTLE BODY

i was in the same boat with you(bike cut off at idlle but above idlle work normaly and when she cut off a little black smoke behind(rich condition) untill i realized that it migt be the result of the added fuel on the co feature!!i have return them to standard settings and all problem gone!!4000km since then and no problem
hope that will help

Originally posted by alexfs
Speeder/Kornking

Also, did you check the entire wiring system of your bike or just the harness under the bubble, as described in another post?

Yep, I checked the whole wiring system.......I found no problems there. If I could get my hands on a replaced defective throttle body assembly I could figure out what's causing this problem, no doubt in my mind. My bike acts up so infrequently that it makes troubleshooting next to impossible. It would be real nice if I knew someone nearby that had a R-1 that was going flakey. But then again who's going to let me work on a R-1 that's under warranty.

I'd like to meter the input voltage to the secondary servos and fuel injectors while the bike is acting up. The intake air pressure sensor has got me bugged to. This problem shouldn't be too tough for Yamaha to figure out. Geez, they're probably amassing a stock pile of defective TB's to test......

Has anybody else had their Throttle Bodies replaced? Anyone?


KK

I went to my dealer (bought my 04 R1 there) and asked about this issue. They said they were not aware of this issue. I asked the technical person to check this thread. She checked this thread while I was at the dealer and stated she will call Yamaha this Tuesday. She appeared to have genuine concern about this safety issue. When I get details, I will post them here.

My R1 has 3050 miles and no problems so far. I would rather remedy this safety issue before it happens.

Thanks for the info Speeder2.

I went to my dealer (bought my 04 R1 there) and asked about this issue. They said they were not aware of this issue. I asked the technical person to check this thread. She checked this thread while I was at the dealer and stated she will call Yamaha this Tuesday. She appeared to have genuine concern about this safety issue. When I get details, I will post them here.

My R1 has 3050 miles and no problems so far. I would rather remedy this safety issue before it happens.

Thanks for the info Speeder2.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Definitely let us know what she says. I have a low milage 04 and would like it to keep running exactly how it does now. Lets keep this post going until we get the result and answers we are looking for.



:yesnod

This is the fastest piece of crap i've ever owned. Yamaha took my money. Crap. Anyone wanna trade for a Corolla?

Please explain for those that think we are the small few...can you provide more info about your case.

Thanks.

Originally posted by The Woodman
I just emailed them with the link to this thread. I thought it might get the ball rolling

:dunno
:fork

You emailed them? Please what's the email address?

Originally posted by rdandy5875
You emailed them? Please what's the email address?

I went to this link

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/faq/answer02.asp

But now it looks like they are no longer accepting
e-mails...:confused: WTF
Looks fishy to me:dunno

Well, thought I'd make a return visit with an update. Got my throttle bodies (in its entirety) replaced with a new California-spec set and my problem is gone. Put over 300 miles on it since the replacement and with my mods it's running better than ever.


WORK DONE:
4 new coils ---> 2 were bad, SURPRISE!
2 new TPS's ---> did nothing
1 new ignition switch ---> did nothing
60+ miles on the dyno ---> thanks for the good time!
1 new throttle body assembly ---> return of the rocketship


Yamaha issued a tech bulletin to disconnect the lower TPS... guess what the bike runs like poop when you do this. Duh!

As said before by others, the problem has to do with the throttle bodies.

Is that tech bulletin public, or just restricted to dealers?

Anyone heard anything about revised TBs on the 2005 bikes?

I dunno... my dealer got it last Friday... the local tech rep told them over the phone it was issued that day.

Can someone please get a copy of the bulletin and post it in this thread also make it a standalone post to help others?

Thanks,

So it took 4 months (end of season for us in the North)...such timing...

I think you are misunderstanding the bulletin... it calls to disconnect the lower TPS. This makes the bike run like shit... on mine it made it shut off whenever there was no throttle applied. It does not offer a fix...

10,000+miles on my stock '04 and guess what? Yup, cutting out. Fortunately it hasn't happened in traffic. I'm glad I found this thread...looks like the bike will go into the dealer this week. Build #0573.

Dammit. I really love my R1 ...my '02 had 34,000 miles when I traded it for this one and yet I didn't have any problems. One person on thie board has already been hurt. Yamaha better get their get their thumb out of their collective asses before someone else gets hurt or worse, killed. I'd hate to give up my R1 for another brand but if this keeps up I'll have no other choice. :(

Update from my inquiry about this issue, from my local dealer. As I stated from an earlier post, my local dealer was checking on this issue by calling Yamaha directly. She stated " Yamaha said they DO NOT have a problem with this, that they are aware of. She did say something about one case in California concerning a throttle body problem.

If this is honestly a problem ( I believe it is), everyone that owns a 04R1 should visit their dealer and inquire about this problem. Many voices = better results.

GUYS---EVERYONE CALL YAMAHA THIS WEEK
forget the dealer-or call tehm last
dealers has no power

GET A NAME FROM YAMAHA WHO YOU TALK TO
POST IT HERE

NOW WE HAVE PUBLIC PROOF OF CALLS
NAME- first and last
date u calledtime u called
results-follow up --ref # for call

NOW LETS SEE THEM DENY THAT---hopefully this will cover u for warranty
stay safe

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
I think you are misunderstanding the bulletin... it calls to disconnect the lower TPS. This makes the bike run like shit... on mine it made it shut off whenever there was no throttle applied. It does not offer a fix...

I'd like to see the bulletin as well. Why are they disconnecting the lower TPS?

Good point Kornking
SO if Yamah has no problem, why would they tell you to disconnect the lower TPS.
2. If you disconnect the lower TPS---wont the bike shutt off when u let go of the throttle

SOMEONE POST THE BULLETIN---this is nuts
Thisis my first yamaha--not a good start...

Someone posted this on the YZF-R1 forum too bad they did not do this earler. I have a R6 same problem. I checked the error codes no TPS sensor error cleand out the TPS and adjusted it problem solved on my R6- yes they are having this problem too. The suzukis were having this problem too BTW this is a clasic TPS failure. BTW you will not nessarily be able to test for a bad TPS with a multimeter the spikes wont nessarily show up there.

Originally posted by Smoken Joe
Someone posted this on the YZF-R1 forum too bad they did not do this earler. I have a R6 same problem. I checked the error codes no TPS sensor error cleand out the TPS and adjusted it problem solved on my R6- yes they are having this problem too. The suzukis were having this problem too BTW this is a clasic TPS failure. BTW you will not nessarily be able to test for a bad TPS with a multimeter the spikes wont nessarily show up there.

Joe have you read all the posts? Changing the TPS made NO difference. FYI, a Fluke 87 will record spikes of a very short (milli-sec) duration. The 87 has memory....

Originally posted by Speeder2
Good point Kornking

2. If you disconnect the lower TPS---wont the bike shutt off when u let go of the throttle




That's what happened to mine when my dealer did this...

Originally posted by Speeder2
Good point Kornking
SO if Yamah has no problem, why would they tell you to disconnect the lower TPS.
2. If you disconnect the lower TPS---wont the bike shutt off when u let go of the throttle

SOMEONE POST THE BULLETIN---this is nuts
Thisis my first yamaha--not a good start...

Yea I would think the engine would shut-off with the throttle closed and run like poop anywhere above idle. It's basically a fail safe mode (see my attached pdf) so that in the event of an TPS failure you don't get stranded. Is Yamaha thinking the TPS are the root cause? Keep looking Yamaha.........

Chris

I think they are thinking of the fixes in least expensive to most expensive order. That's why it took me so long to get new throttle bodies, but once Yamaha decided to send new ones, I had them in hand in less than 18hours.

So, RUFFSTUFF, how do you know that the new throttle bodies are any different than your original ones. I'm not sure 300 miles is enough to right off a throttle boddy problem with your bike. Did you notice any physical differences with the 2 units when you installed the new one? The new unit may be good for another 7-8,000 miles and give you the same problem as the original. It's so intermittent that it may not show up for hundreds or even thousands of miles. Just like the first one.HOPEFULLY NOT. But we need to be verified that changes to the new throttle bodies have actually been done by Yamaha before going out to replace them, right? By the way, how much was the new throttle body and did you replace it yourself or did the dealer?

On the 49-state throttle bodies there is a port on each side that is sealed off. On the California TB's there is a hose that goes from one port to the other and in the middle there is a T-fitting. My new TB's have the hose, the old one doesn't. Besides, when Me and my dealer noticed the difference we called the Yamaha tech and he confirmed what we thought. California.

My bike went from completely running like ass (not intermittant anymore) with shutting off, running rich, etc. to running perfectly with just a change in the TB's. I now have between 750-1000 miles since the swap. If the problem comes back... well I still have 3 years 4 months of warranty left.

I did none of the work myself, again, that's what the warranty is for... all parts and labor are covered. I was there for a lot of the work though... since my wife works at my dealer I can kill 2 birds with one stone.

:riding

I must be misunderstanding. Your bike now has Emissions ready throttle bodies, but with none of the other emissions crap that goes along with it? I do not understand how this fixed the problem.

Originally posted by gumbybob
The new unit may be good for another 7-8,000 miles and give you the same problem as the original. It's so intermittent that it may not show up for hundreds or even thousands of miles. Just like the first one.HOPEFULLY NOT. But we need to be verified that changes to the new throttle bodies have actually been done by Yamaha before going out to replace them, right? By the way, how much was the new throttle body and did you replace it yourself or did the dealer?

Bingo! You nailed it.

I agree, why Yamaha hasn't found the cause of this problem is puzzling. Much more costly to replace the whole assembly vs control components. I suppose this issue will be a priority as replacement numbers go up.



Ruff thanks for the update.

KornKing

Originally posted by racindego
I must be misunderstanding. Your bike now has Emissions ready throttle bodies, but with none of the other emissions crap that goes along with it? I do not understand how this fixed the problem.


All new throttle bodies. The California emissions stuff on the new throttle bodies is not connected, they just put a cap on the T-fitting. The old throttle bodies are broke, the new ones are not (yet). Voila!

I agree on the cost concerns... Yamaha really needs to figure out what's up with the TB's that is causing this... remember, for 04 the whole fuel injection system was changed compared to the 02-03. Many people voiced concerns over the change, mostly in regards to throttle response (the 02-03 is sweet!) but I doubt none envisioned this.

The only thing I know for sure is what I posted earlier in terms of troubleshooting: replacing the entire TB assembly fixed my problem. Mind you, that Yamaha sent an ENTIRE TB assembly, cables, hoses, TPS, etc. so who knows what is broke.

Originally posted by kornking
Joe have you read all the posts? Changing the TPS made NO difference. FYI, a Fluke 87 will record spikes of a very short (milli-sec) duration. The 87 has memory....


Actually several people did seem to solve there problem with new TPS sensor. No I did not read the entire post with all the bickering and calls to sue Yamaha instead of how to fix the problem.

It sounds like there is more than one problem. Most sound like they have a fuel mixture problem of one kind or another- you do realize a out of allinment TPS or medded up TPS is going to put your FI mixture out of alinment?

If you bike is simply running rough at low speed would suggest balancing your throttles, checking your air cleaners and all the air connections for lous connections and looking at your plugs. Make sure the coils are giving spark wile you are at it with the diagnostic function. If you are mecanicly minded you should also check your injectors for proper flow and the pressure in your fuel system. Be carful replacing the tank as a kinked fuel line has caused these problems.

I would also check out the TPS as replacing these has solved some peoples problems. You can take them off and spray out the middle with eletrical contact cleaner. They can collect gunk making the bike run rich or lean. You should also adjust them to speck using the diagnostics with the FI if they are out of position. Wile you are at it clean all your eletrical connectors with contact cleaner and apply some dieletric grease. Also check the battery and charging system If this doesn't fix it or show a problem you should play with the fuel mixture.

The classic symptom of TPS failure is a bike that suddenly dies when you pull in the clutch and/ or let off the gas.Cleaning them out is not going to solve the problem all the time replacing them is the only sure fix and testing them out with a multi meter does not always so the problem if they are really shot. The GSXR's have had this problem recognized for a wile moving to FI earlier. I can link you to some posts on the GSXR forum if you are interested.

My friend solved his problem on his R1 by checking connections out cleaning them etc and then removing his PCIII. He did not want to go to the effort of adjusting his map. None of this takes any serious amount of time or skill except checking the pressure in the FI line. I fixed mine on my R6 doing some of this and cleaning the TPS. Dont forget to make sure your idel is not to low.

1. BAD THROTTLEBODY
2. we did not pay money to be fixing this crap for them or testing the different items.
3. simple--quietly exchange some bikes and let them examine them closely
4. they have my tbody to investigate-the new one solved my problem
5. WE ALL NEED TO STOP EXCUSING COMPANIES for rushing crap out there for us to get hurt...

DID ANYONE CALL YAMAHA YET AND POST THE INFO
NAME
date
time
ref for call--

WE ARE NOT TRYING TO LAUNCH LAW SUITES--

WE WANT WHAT WE PAID FOR-SAFE WORKING MACHINE.
yamaNA

Joe you should go back and read the posts. The symptoms are described in detail. This is not a mixture issue. It's a fuel or air shut-off senerio. My first thought when this malfunction started was the Throttle Position Sensors, I no longer believe that...

I'm going off memory here but I don't recall anyone reporting that replacing one or both TPS solved their problem. I tested mine with a meter and found no issues with either one. I also ran the self diagnostic described in the manual. The ECU displays the TPS position on the LCD meter as you open the throttle from closed to fully open. Also in a separate test the ECU operates the secondary servo motor and displays the angle (upper TPS) in degrees.

Regards

KK

Originally posted by Speeder2
1. BAD THROTTLEBODY
2. we did not pay money to be fixing this crap for them or testing the different items.
3. simple--quietly exchange some bikes and let them examine them closely
4. they have my tbody to investigate-the new one solved my problem
5. WE ALL NEED TO STOP EXCUSING COMPANIES for rushing crap out there for us to get hurt...

DID ANYONE CALL YAMAHA YET AND POST THE INFO
NAME
date
time
ref for call--

WE ARE NOT TRYING TO LAUNCH LAW SUITES--

WE WANT WHAT WE PAID FOR-SAFE WORKING MACHINE.
yamaNA

You are not going to get the problem fixed with that attitude. You want a safe bike fix it! Every bike has some problems hell the GSXR and ZX10 have the same problems!


It sounds like you have a bigger problem than just the bike. You want performance that can spank a lambogini and relability of an Accord and pay less than a Hyundai come back to the real world. Spend two hrs testing things out and that is being generous --- a small fraction of the time you have spent bitching and you just might have your problem solved. I can see why some people are having problems with the dealers you need to treat them like they are on your side to get things done right it is a relationship the dealer doesnt owe you for buying the fastest bike out there.


One BIG piece of advice if you cant work on a bike yourself treat the dealer parts guy and mecanifc with respect and you would not beleve what kind of service you can get! I get all my parts at a discount and free work on my bike all for a few nice words. Pull the spoiled rich boy routeen and they will show you the door as fast as they can problem fixed or not.

Joe your off base here. Read the POSTS!

Do you have a 04 R1 with this malfunction? Do you know what's happening? Have you experrienced the hicup on a 04 R-1?

Stay on topic, please.

Big Korn

Originally posted by Smoken Joe
You are not going to get the problem fixed with that attitude. You want a safe bike fix it! Every bike has some problems hell the GSXR and ZX10 have the same problems!


It sounds like you have a bigger problem than just the bike. You want performance that can spank a lambogini and relability of an Accord and pay less than a Hyundai come back to the real world. Spend two hrs testing things out and that is being generous --- a small fraction of the time you have spent bitching and you just might have your problem solved. I can see why some people are having problems with the dealers you need to treat them like they are on your side to get things done right it is a relationship the dealer doesnt owe you for buying the fastest bike out there.


One BIG piece of advice if you cant work on a bike yourself treat the dealer parts guy and mecanifc with respect and you would not beleve what kind of service you can get! I get all my parts at a discount and free work on my bike all for a few nice words. Pull the spoiled rich boy routeen and they will show you the door as fast as they can problem fixed or not.

Hey dumb dumb,
If you read the dam post--even the first post, you would have seen my bikes IS FIXED.

I can really care less about what you think of my attitude. I AM HERE TO KEEP OTHERS FROM GETTING HURT OR KILLED.

PLEASE KEEP POSTING SO WE KNOW YOU ARE STILL ALIVE.
Don't bother flaming me either.
YOU ARE SUCH A DUMB A$$ THAT YOU WILL ACCEPT A DEFECTIVE PRODUCT AND SUPPORT THE COMPANY and insult your fellow riders.
Last time I checked the money came from my bank account to pay for the bike NOT the dealer or YAMAHA.

MY DEALER AND I GET ALONG FINE-he is the owner and we have a good relationship. We even go boating together. yamaNA has to approve warranty work over $1000 so I do not blame the dealer.

Go ahead and flame me---you will just keep my post alive--plus I will ask a mod to delete all of my irrelevant remarks along with yours. WHY ARE SOME PEOPLE SO F-ing DUMB.

MY BIKE IS FIXED-I AM TRYING TO HELP OTHERS
all you did was repeat stuff already posted and then u try to hurt my feelings by calling me names- and insulting me---

I rather RIDE my NEW bike than FIX it---did not pay them for their experimental bikes.
Later for you---flame on-DO YOU WORK FOR yamaNA
As for everyone else---
STAY SAFE
does this make u cry more
:fork :boom

This thread needs to go away now.

BTW, no issues on mine (other than blown fork seal), or 2 of my friends. It seems like the same few people on this thread over and over.

By Harry---thanks for the value you added---that did not solve the problem for others---hmmm

If you read the post-you will see it only seems to show up after 5000miles or so. How many 04 owners do not know about this board---well then--

Now it is so easy to just post ur 2 cents
how about you send an email to those ppl that got hurt or those ppl that have the problem to go away and stop complaining.

I will make it easy for you---contact EyeSpy and tell him you will pay him for his crashed bike and sorry about his broken hand.
btw-there may be a guy here you can visit in the hospital and appolgise to him also---but we have to wait until he comes out of his coma. He might be a victim of this issue based on his buddy and 3 eye witnesses along with the police...hmmm

Oh 1 more---contact R1Rider817 (orange bike as avatar) and tell him that he is the small few with the problem and to go away...BUT WAIT---there is even more---Contact the ppl here that thought it was just them or thought it was bad gas...but then they realised it is not them once they saw this post.

Please let us know what the good folks you contact say to you.

why do you want the thread deleted---DO YOU WORK FOR YAMANA---prove you don't and that you have no relationships with anyone from YamaNA....

Best wishes,
yamaNA

Originally posted by HarryBawls
This thread needs to go away now.


If you unsubscribe from it, it will...


:fact

Welcome back to the Fold RUFFSTUFF.
Glad to hear they finally fixed your bike.
Now this is the kinda support we are looking for.
P.S. I did not make this a pm cuz Ruffstuff and I were on the opposite sides of the fence for a while. I don't know ppl personaly so I can care less for those that flame me.
I AM HERE TO HELP OTHERS from getting hurt or killed AND TO MAKE FOLKS AWARE.

STAY SAFE everyone and I sincerely appologise for some of my off topic rants with others but I just can't take stupidity.

Regards,
yamaNA

One good thing has come from this thread. If I wreck my bike, I will
damn sure tell yamaha it cut out on me in mid corner. Do you see where I'm coming from you boobs. Give it a rest, if there is a problem
there will be a fix without your constant whining.

Are you dumb also.
IF there is a problem...there is a problem--wake up.

SO I GUESS WITH YOUR LOGIC WE DON'T NEED TO HAVE GOVERMENT RECALLS BECAUSE THE MANUFACTURERS WILL INFORM EVERYONE THAT THEIR PRODUCTS ARE DEFECTIVE.

OH-PLEASE PLEASE CALL THE FAMILY OF THOSE COPS WHO DIES IN THEIR POLICE CRUISERS (FORD CROWN VICS) that burned them to death when they exploded from minor REAR impacts.
but then with your logic---there is no problem cuz FORD has not SAID so...

again-WHO DO YOU WORK FOR?
PLEASE, PLEASE CALL ONE OF THOSE FAMILY'S WITH A DEAD OFFICER OR THE GUYS THAT ARE ALIVE BUT TOTALLY BURNED ALL OVER....tell us what they tell you--

Happy Halloween,
Stay Safe

Originally posted by Speeder2
Are you dumb also.
IF there is a problem...there is a problem--wake up.

SO I GUESS WITH YOUR LOGIC WE DON'T NEED TO HAVE GOVERMENT RECALLS BECAUSE THE MANUFACTURERS WILL INFORM EVERYONE THAT THEIR PRODUCTS ARE DEFECTIVE.

OH-PLEASE PLEASE CALL THE FAMILY OF THOSE COPS WHO DIES IN THEIR POLICE CRUISERS (FORD CROWN VICS) that burned them to death when they exploded from minor REAR impacts.
but then with your logic---there is no problem cuz FORD has not SAID so...

again-WHO DO YOU WORK FOR?
PLEASE, PLEASE CALL ONE OF THOSE FAMILY'S WITH A DEAD OFFICER OR THE GUYS THAT ARE ALIVE BUT TOTALLY BURNED ALL OVER....tell us what they tell you--

Happy Halloween,
Stay Safe

Umm, ok. I'll just be going now. (Harry slowly backs
out of the room, and quietly shuts the door).

Goodbye Bawls, you'll be missed....

Originally posted by Speeder2
Welcome back to the Fold RUFFSTUFF.
Glad to hear they finally fixed your bike.
Now this is the kinda support we are looking for.
P.S. I did not make this a pm cuz Ruffstuff and I were on the opposite sides of the fence for a while. I don't know ppl personaly so I can care less for those that flame me.
I AM HERE TO HELP OTHERS from getting hurt or killed AND TO MAKE FOLKS AWARE.

STAY SAFE everyone and I sincerely appologise for some of my off topic rants with others but I just can't take stupidity.

Regards,
yamaNA


NP. Thanks for the welcome.

Originally posted by kornking
Joe you should go back and read the posts. The symptoms are described in detail. This is not a mixture issue. It's a fuel or air shut-off senerio. My first thought when this malfunction started was the Throttle Position Sensors, I no longer believe that...

I'm going off memory here but I don't recall anyone reporting that replacing one or both TPS solved their problem. I tested mine with a meter and found no issues with either one. I also ran the self diagnostic described in the manual. The ECU displays the TPS position on the LCD meter as you open the throttle from closed to fully open. Also in a separate test the ECU operates the secondary servo motor and displays the angle (upper TPS) in degrees.

Regards

KK


Did you read my post?! I read the entire stinking thread and yes there were people that reported a fix with a change of TPS and not everyone had reported the same symptoms. Some got all worked up because they once one time had a dip in the RPM's. Further a poorly working TPS will CAUSE poor fule mixture. I wont bother explainging this in depth obviously some people here are in way over there heads. Dont know about you but I have 10+ years riding and working on bikes owned a R1 for 4 years and many other bikes some bought abused and broken and put into working condition. You have managed to get a new bike run poorly and having it fixed by someone else but in such a way that it helps no one. All you are doing now is attacking people that want to solve the problem.......So what makes you such an expert that you can diagnose and solve the problem without doing any testing or even reading your own thread? Is this your first bike?


BTW if you read the thread you are managing you will have read that people have had experience with TPS units that checked out with a mulit meter but solved the problem when replaced do a search on Gixxer.com and the R6 forum about this it is well known. Reality allways wins out over theory. I cant sear this is the problem with everyone but for people that have a bike die when abruptly let off the throttle but die when smoothly let off the throttle it is very clealy something to look at. Do some reacearch and quit whinning.

OK I am out of here. This conversation can serve no purpose anymore.













:vanish

It's unfortunate that this thread has turned into a flame-fest. I am anxious to find out just what the root of the problem is. I'm still considering taking the bike to the local shop since it's still covered under warranty, but can we all stop bickering and find a solution?

The Suzuki and Honda boards must be laughing their asses off at use right about now...

Originally posted by Smoken Joe
Dont know about you but I have 10+ years riding and working on bikes owned a R1 for 4 years.

SpewJoe Stickpants, wow 10 whole years? Geez and you actually own a 4 year old R-1. That's an awesome resume. To bad you don't own a 04 R-1 that's malfunctioning mine and many others. That way you might actually bring something to the discussion.

BTW I was riding and working on bikes when you were pooping in your diapers. I've had 20 bikes in the last 33 years. For 25 years engines, controls and AC/DC electricity have been my life.

D YAM---SmokenJoe just got :owwn3d and :2bitchsla

Ok-MArtinC--please delete all this crap
FOr everyone else that cares to solve this issue or get it Officially Recognised by YamaNa-please update the post with your siutation.

CAN THE SQUIDS,NEWBS,AND NON 04 OWNERS KEEP OUT OF THIS.

Stay SAfe All

Im in Canada.... Same problem.... EXACTLY.... My dealer is giving me the shoulder shrugg.

My problem, like everyone's, has gotten worse. My bikes been at the dealer for almost a month. NOTHING.

Any advice? I read through as many forums as I possibly can.

Can anyone break it done for me? TPS? THROTTLE BODY? COILS? HEADER?

Sorry guys, I just don't know if anyone has gotten to the bottom of anything and I missed it. All I got from the latest responses among you was a lot of arguement. I understand and share your frustration.

Cheers Gentlemen!

crashed mid corner dont know what happend same corner same speed sudenly hit the ditch

Dude-glad to hear that you are ok.
CAN YOU GUYS POST THE INFO I REQUESTED
1. miles or km on ur bike
2. when it started
3. what EXACTLY does ur bike do
4. what is ur build number (last 4-6 digists of VIN#)
5. is your bike stock
6. what has been done so far by the dealer

Okay I've just read this thread for the 3rd time to try and get a handle on things. I am not yet an 04-05 owner although I was seriously considering buying either an 04 or 05 R1 but this thread has me a little nervous. As others have stated no one buys a bike to do expiremental mechanical work on it, we buy to ride (well most of us anyway).

From everything I've read (3x), it seems that new throttle bodies are the only 100% fix (and even that could be temporary for the next few miles). Is this accurate? Is this the only clear solution thus far?

Sorry to interrupt this thread, but I have $11,000.00 that I'm looking at spending and I certainly do not want to buy an a$$load of problems. As most of you my riding season is limited here, so any downtime w/ no bike is absolutely brutal.

Anyone with the newer "replaced" throttle bodies (california or otherwise) have the problem come back? And again, is the throttle body the only cure at this point?

Good luck guys & gals, I would not wish these types of headaches on anyone. Suzuki is looking better by the minute, but of course they too have a new/redesigned bike coming out ('05 G1K).

Hey Crimson,
You are 100% correct on your summary. The 04 R1 is a good and fun bike. It seems that it is not that many bikes with the problem BUT you wont know until you get past at least 5000miles.

I would suggest this to you:
1. BUy a new 04/05 R1 BUT get YAmaha to fax or email you that they do NOT have any issues with the bike then you will go and buy one right now. If YAMAHA not the dealer gives you that, then you are good to go. YOu may consider buying the extended waranty.

THE THROTTLE BODY COMES WITH A MATCHING ECU (computer) SO IT IS 2 PIECES YOU GET. Also look into the wiring harness thread-remove the windscreen and cover the exposed frame metal with tape at least or rubber tubing and tape. I used about 3 winds of electrical tape.

CRIMSON-THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH HOLDING ON TO YOUR MONEY FOR A BIT-DON'T BE IN A RUSH FOR A HEADACHE.

Good Luck...

Originally posted by Speeder2
THE THROTTLE BODY COMES WITH A MATCHING ECU (computer) SO IT IS 2 PIECES YOU GET.


I just got a new throttle body and kept my original ECU.

2 bikes no mods
Serials 5558and 5560

One has 3500 miles = no problems
the other has 7000 miles... I have been having this problem since about 5000 miles. It started with dieing due to low RPMs when stopping.... turning the key off resolves the problem for a short period of time. After reading the forums I have been able to reproduce the sputtering in 4th gear at 3000 RPMs for about 60 seconds. Then the motor will not idle..

I have not taken it in to the dealer yet because they are telling me that it will take 2 weeks to get to it...

Also, I have lost 4 of the 5 bolts that hold the header cluster and mid pipe togather which was a pretty major exhaust leak...I replaced these bolts and it didn't seem to affect the problem.

Has anyone other than Speedster confirmed the throttle body replacement resolves this problem??

Yes.

Originally posted by dabeckham
2 bikes no mods
Serials 5558and 5560

One has 3500 miles = no problems
the other has 7000 miles... I have been having this problem since about 5000 miles. It started with dieing do to low RPMs when stopping.... turning the key off resolves the problem for a short period of time. After reading the forums I have been able to reproduce the sputtering in 4th gear at 3000 RPMs for about 60 seconds. Then the motor will die on idle..

I have not taken it in to the dealer yet because they are telling me that it will take 2 weeks to get to it...

Also, I have lost 4 of the 5 bolts that hold the header cluster and mid pipe togather which was a pretty major exhaust leak...I replaced these bolts and it didn't seem to affect the problem.

Has anyone other than Speedster confirmed the throttle body replacement resolves this problem??


Agreed, the exhaust leaks are not causing your malfunction. Your hesitation and low idle description sounds real familiar. Yep same problem that myself and many others have reported. My bike acts up very sporadically but when it does it will not idle and hesitates in the upper RPM range.

From reports on this posting replacing the throttle position sensors didn't help, nor did removing the secondary throttle plates. I was suspicious of the secondary servos but that doesn't seem to be causing the problem either. I also think it's strange that no ECU fault codes are registered. Seems as though the ECU is cutting back the fuel injection for no apparent reason.

Prior to replacing your TB assembly (If you can talk your dealer into it) I'd like to see 2 componets replaced on the throttle bodies. 1) Intake Air Pressure sensor 5VX-82380-00-00 . To my knowledge no one has replaced it and tested. 2) The wiring harness 5VY-82386-00-00 which is mounted to the throttle bodies. Those are about the only items that haven't been replaced and checked out. Obviously something on the TB assembly is acting up. I like to know what....

:rant

KK

Makes you wonder why the '05 has a NEW UCE unit..they say for better fuel mapping...hmmmm....suspicious???

I still find it very interesting that turning off the key corrects the problem. Logically, this tells me that the ECU is sensing something that is affecting it's decision on the fuel mixture. This could be a bad sensor. Does the servo motor for the secondary have a position feedback line? Like on the new EGR valves, not only does the computer tell the servo where to be, but the servo tells the computer where it is. If this is getting whacked out resetting the computer would do a POST and maybe take the servo to it's full open and full closed position to calibrate it on each startup... Replaceing the TB assembly would obviously correct the problem...
When I called Yamaha CustServ they told me to tell them the name of the dealer and they would call them and give them instructions on who to ask for. It 's sounds like we have gotten their attention and it looks like maybe they are starting to realize there really is a problem.

Cycling the ignition to correct the problem is puzzling. I believe you're correct that the ECU is killing the fuel. The secondary servo motor is controlled my the ECU. The secondary throttle position sensor output feeds into the ECU. So yea the ECU knows the position of both the primary and secondary throttle plates. There's a procedure in the manual to test full operation of the servo motor, which I did. Everything looked normal during the test. I also tested the fault code alarms and they all worked. The ECU looks for open or shorted circuits to log fault codes, so it may not log anything if values are low but not open or shorted.

I'm not sure what all the fuel control parameters are but inlet pressure (vacuum), ambient pressure & temp, throttle position and jacket water temp are a few of the control inputs. Seems as though some component is telling the ECU to turn off the fuel injection. That's why I'd like to see a dealer change just teh inlet pressure sensor and test teh bike. Process of elimination. So far both TPS sensors have been swapped and it made no difference. Hummmmmm

But, why does it take so long to fail. It takes the bikes about 5000 miles to fail. It will be interesting to see if your other bike fails since the build numbers are VERY close.

Keep us updated

Ok for all of you with this problem, please post the MONTH that you purchased the bike, or better yet if you can find which month it was manufactured. The idea is to see if perhaps it's only a "batch" or "lot" that experiences this problem. Perhaps it's isolated or they fired those workers.

Mine is #169. I figure it's one of the first made...


:)

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Mine is #169. I figure it's one of the first made...


:)

BTW, I just completed 2 full track days (and a race school thrown in between) last weekend and the bike just rocks! Running better than ever. Of course, my 2 buds with Gixxer 1k's wish my bike was still broke...

:beer

Originally posted by RUFFSTUFF
Mine is #169. I figure it's one of the first made...


:)

thanks! I believe on the sticker on the frame it does document the month it was manufactured in, i believe by the VIN number, atleast that's with suzuki. if you have some time, please take a look and let us know:thumbup

which month did u buy it in?

Originally posted by 2fasst
thanks! I believe on the sticker on the frame it does document the month it was manufactured in, i believe by the VIN number, atleast that's with suzuki. if you have some time, please take a look and let us know:thumbup

which month did u buy it in?


It was made in January, I bought it out of the crate Feb 13.

Manufactured 3/04. I bought it in May.

Originally posted by kornking
Obviously something on the TB assembly is acting up. I like to know what....


Okay, here's some news. I dropped my '04 off at the local dealership last week (Friday). The bike is nearing 11,000 miles and is suffering the same symptoms as others in this thread (idle dropping, engine cutting out at a stop, etc.). The service dept. manager took a particular interest in the problem because his racebike is a 2004 r1. Over the next few days he ran full diagnostics and swapped out the header for the stocker on his racer (which has ports for gas analysis). Everything was within acceptable specs.

One thing he did find, though, dealt with the thermo-wax assembly. In a nutshell, as far as I can tell of it, this acts as an automatic fuel enrichener during cold startup (can someone double check this please?). The assembly works, through a linkage, upon a pair of plungers that affect the low-speed (idle) air/fuel mixture. Guess where these plungers are located? Yes, on the throttle bodies. A high amount of carbon buildup was found on these parts and they were not operating smoothly. They were cleaned and reinstalled and I got the bike back the following Tuesday.

Now, truth be told it did act up again but only twice, and the engine did not die completely like it did before. I took her out yesterday (Sunday) for a 200+ mile run on my favorite backroads, and this included a couple of blasts to redline in the lower gears (hey, had to burn any remaining carbon out, y'know? :D ). And so far, the problem has not recurred.

I would suggest looking into the thermo-wax deal-io, Sure would save money and time over replacing throttle bodies, ECU's, etc.

d207gp..thanks for the info:thumbup

and your bike was manufactured when?
:D

Those that still has the problem,have your dealers contact speeder2 dealership and talk to the service manager...with all the work his dept did on his bike,they ought to know what to do and what works.

Nice find d207gp. There are many of us following this thread intently, since it looks like Yamaha is in complete denial about this problem. Can somebody else try this fix and confirm results asap?

GREAT!100%this is the f.... problem!!!i also noticed that when the cut uot started the bike make some black exhaust gases!
can you post some datalied info(a pic from servive manual with the right indication of theis thrmo wax will be great!!0
thank's and keep cool

I captured a couple of images from the service manual. First is the thermo-wax assembly (item #15 arrowed) and its location relative to the throttle bodies.

And here is the procedure to check the thermo-wax assembly. I doubt if it's something a shade-tree mechanic could do.

WTF is that device...geez,and easy to understand adjusting procedure to booth...and orth. fault on top of that (damege).

Good find though.

Originally posted by d207gp
And here is the procedure to check the thermo-wax assembly. I doubt if it's something a shade-tree mechanic could do.

Excellent suss Jeff now get your finger out of that ladies jeans and come visit us at www.yzf-r1forum.net
:hellobye

The Thermowax assembly sets the cold idle speed. That's it. When the wax cools it pushes the plunger out against the throttle. As it heats up the plunger withdraws and lets the throttle plates rest against the normal idle stop. As the graph shows the plunger recesses as the temp goes up. It's not an electrical device. In fact it's somewhat crude in this day of high tech controls. I doubt seriously that there is any connection between the Therrmowax device and the problem. For one thing once the engine is up to temp it does nothing.

KK

I changed my map in my power commander to make it run lean. And I have yet to have one studder out of it. Not one. And let me tell you. My bike was acting up so bad that I was 2 seconds away from running it over with my Jeep. Over and Over. And over that ***... piece of shi...

Ya but it runs lean and very well now.

But lean is bad for the rings. Well stalling out on a Bridge over and over again in stop and go traffic up hill is a little worse.

Too funny! Mine hasn't acted up for a long time now either and all I've done is check every damn connection and fuel injection device on the bike. Ambient temps may have something to do with the malfunction. I think that's a stretch, but my last few thousand miles have been in cooler temps. I don't think my ride cured itself, and the bad thing is next summer it'll be out of warranty and acting up again.

Mine bike did this today on my way to work it turn off, i tried to started again and it would not start, I had to pull over to the side, and I keep trying and nothing after a while it started, I call Yamaha Corp. they said to take it to the dealer they are concern about that problem, my R1 has 8500 miles on it, Iam worried about this problem. I will let you know what Yamaha tell's me about this problem, this should be a recall.:mad:

Originally posted by kornking
I doubt seriously that there is any connection between the Therrmowax device and the problem. For one thing once the engine is up to temp it does nothing.


The problem has by and large disappeared after the service. And re-read my post...it wasn't the thermowax device but the plungers it controls in the throttle bodies that were hanging up.

Oh, hi Newsh. :hellobye You like my nails? :D I've been lurking over there but I really don't like the new layout. :(

Originally posted by d207gp

Oh, hi Newsh. :hellobye You like my nails? :D I've been lurking over there but I really don't like the new layout. :(

Ooh yes didn't realise you'd taken to varnishing them :)

Build no 819. 11000km on the clock Been haveing the same problem only seems to happen when I have been riding slow for a while happens at 90 degrees C will just cut out when I pull the clutch in how ever if I have been riding hard it will go up to 105 to 110 no problems. Switch it offf and back on again and it is fine.