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FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

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#4,614 · (Edited)
Auto tuning is not as easy as just having it on all the time and riding the bike. You actually need to do the runs as on the dyno.
The button to enable-disable autotune is mandatory.
You must have the latest update to PCV software for the autotune to work correctly.
Correct way to auto-tune:
0. Always tune well heated engine - not just coolant temperature but the engine block (oil) must be heated up to at least 80C.
1. Have auto-tune off in normal conditions
2. When you ready to do a tune run, flip the button to enable autotune and twist throttle to "required"% gradually over vise ECU will do "accelerator pump" enriching mixture momentarily (yes it does that). So start with 1500 - 2000 pm with a goal to get to required tps position when you hit 3000 on high throttle openings and less on the lower openings. When you hit rev limiter, flip button again to disable auto tune so it would not f@ck up the map during engine breaking/neutral throttle.
3. You need about 10 runs to be sure PCV got it right.
4. Repeat point 2 for 100%, 80%, 60%, 40, 20, 15, 5, 2. You will not hit rev limiter on lower throttle openings, so flip the button when RPM stabilize.
5. You need to have linear proportional YCC-T map to do precise tuning. You can change it to anything you like later.
6. You need to have something indicating your tps while you autotuning - for example power commander LCD unit. You can also use same unit to datalog to SD card and then re-calculate fueling corrections based on that log.
7. When you done - accept changes to PCV fuel table.
8. Repeat the same process at least 5 times.
9. Now flash PCV map to ECU.
10. Repeat all above another 5 times at least. Watch out for errors in mapping. Your experience will grow so eventually you will get it right.
I would recommend to auto-tune on gear 4, so you have reasonable load, and time for AT to sample.
 
#4,616 · (Edited)
Auto tuning is not as easy as just having it on all the time and riding the bike. You actually need to do the runs as on the dyno.
The button to enable-disable autotune is mandatory.
You must have the latest update to PCV software for the autotune to work correctly.
Correct way to auto-tune:
0. Always tune well heated engine - not just coolant temperature but the engine block (oil) must be heated up to at least 80C.
1. Have auto-tune off in normal conditions
2. When you ready to do a tune run, flip the button to enable autotune and twist throttle to "required"% gradually over vise ECU will do "accelerator pump" enriching mixture momentarily (yes it does that). So start with 1500 - 2000 pm with a goal to get to required tps position when you hit 3000 on high throttle openings and less on the lower openings. When you hit rev limiter, flip button again to disable auto tune so it would not f@ck up the map during engine breaking/neutral throttle.
3. You need about 10 runs to be sure PCV got it right.
4. Repeat point 2 for 100%, 80%, 60%, 40, 20, 15, 5, 2. You will not hit rev limiter on lower throttle openings, so flip the button when RPM stabilize.
5. You need to have linear proportional YCC-T map to do precise tuning. You can change it to anything you like later.
6. You need to have something indicting your tps while you autotuning - for example power commander LCD unit. You can also use same unit to datalog to SD card and then re-calculate fueling corrections based on that log.
7. When you done - accept changes to PCV fuel table.
8. Repeat the same process at least 5 times.
9. Now flash PCV map to ECU.
10. Repeat all above another 5 times at least. Watch out for errors in mapping. Your experience will grow so eventually you will get it right.
I would recommend to auto-tune on gear 4, so you have reasonable load, and time for AT to sample.
Elwin sorry was a big delay in my last posts

Edit:

Elwin
Hmm must say, the most consistent and professional information about pcv+at GREAT WORK. I and marider can send you some small pocket of money as support for your further work and effort which you already done.
 
#4,619 ·
Alright boys I finally got the interface and now I'm lost. We don't have any dynos in our country so I have to rely on the community for help.

Can someone share a good map for my 2011 otherwise stock except for a racefit black series single low mount exhaust. It's a 3/4 to 1/2 system I think.

Our temps here are between 25 to 35 degrees celcius, high humidity and our octane rating is not the best so ignition map can't be altered much I guess?

I'm mainly looking for a good fuel map, reduced engine braking and usable A mode as it's pretty un rideable in A mode right now. Maybe a slightly altered ignition map too? And an explanation of the flash would be helpful.

It would be great if we had a database of some sort of the flashes. Sorry I can't search through the entire thread as I'm using this forum through the phone app.

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#4,620 ·
Go into the FAQ and read it. Then grab the Peen V2 ECU image from the link in the post. Use that for a starter.
 
#4,631 ·
I can't find any explanation for the changes this map makes. Can someone point in the right direction to read up?

Does this smoothen out the twitchy A mode on/off throttle sensitivity? Does this apply uniformly to all modes? I'm a little wary and want to be sure before flashing as once done there is no going back. Flash tune has zero documentation about their interface and software so this forum is my only hope.

lets see if i got this right, if i flash wit this map> 2012 R1 y-pipe & slip-on.ftm downloaded from ft website, this includes both timing and fuel changes?
I'd like to know that too.
 
#4,624 · (Edited)
Dear, I have a full set of genuine ECU(EU) with 3 keys(red) and immobiliser and full EU harness!!!!!!. ECU(eu) is orignianal without flash I wonder that maybe somebody of you need this as the replacement or spare ECU also maybe somebody would like to convert his US bike on EU harness and (eu)ECU if yes give me PM. Price is really low for r1 forum guys

EU(ECU)+Immo+3 keys(red)+EU harness

ECU(eu) 2009/2011

Also can send pictures. Maybe FT will be interesting to get a full EU harness with ECU, what you reckon ?
 
#4,625 ·
Didn't the newest version of the software have the stock EU ECU?
 
#4,627 ·
does anybody have any ycct maps for an 07-08 that theyre willing to share?
been running the block style from TAFB and it works well but i want to smooth it out.
thanks all
 
#4,629 ·
so just a question to be clear.
I set the tps on a pcv so it is zero with the engine off effectivly 7 voltage.
then when the engine is running it rears 2% throttle on the power commander.
and 100% is normal
then it is ok just to flash the pcv map into the ecu?

I am going to the dyno next week and plan to tune then flash and check but dont want to redo because we stuffed it all up. reading the thread it only effects the lower throttle openings like 2 and 5%?
 
#4,642 ·
I got the answer on how the QS works from F-T

For the R1 the qs functions by emulating a rev limiter. It activates an ignition cut determined by the amount of time set in the map.
 
#4,643 ·
Hi,
I have something very good for US bikes not restricted throttle ECU(EUROPEAN) r1 rn22 kit(is a new without flash and has imobilaser inside).

Also very good for somebody who would like to save his ECU(eu) before FT.

Absolutely brand new ECU(EU) with imo. full kit (main looms+clock looms+red keys for this ECU(to program any barrel/antena)+ECU(EUROPEAN)+fuel cap)
one black key barrel is on racing bike with YEC ECU.

KIT is for now reserved for N4Speed to Friday

 
#4,644 ·
Send it to flashtune to read and include EU 2009 into software!



Hi,
I have something very good for US bikes not restricted throttle ECU(EUROPEAN) r1 rn22 kit(is a new without flash and has imobilaser inside).

Also very good for somebody who would like to save his ECU(eu) before FT.

Absolutely brand new ECU(EU) with imo. full kit (main looms+clock looms+red keys for this ECU(to program any barrel/antena)+ECU(EUROPEAN)+fuel cap)
one black key barrel is on racing bike with YEC ECU.

KIT is for now reserved for N4Speed to Friday
 
#4,654 ·
Hi guys,

after 4 days fiddling with R1, resetting the TPS damn sensor, having dried battery and other causing headache problems finally I managed to built up a map that works with Lax hybrid reflash based on Elwin hints (big thanks! :thumbup) using Autotune AT-200 and zero map in Power Commander. After almost 100km on a roller / 60 miles/ did a dyno run at the end.. First I did the dyno calibration and set up the minimum revs to 3000 rpm & maximum revs to 14 000 rpm and after the run... :flex:

Hit 170,1 RWHP and 103,1Nm (76.67 lb/ft) :tocoo:

Below you have my current dyno charts with the newest run compared to previous one (without the AT-200 unit trims, based on zero map only) and I made additional chart for the Flash-Tune'd ECU with 3/4 Akrapovic, K&N airfilter (road), Graves block offs VS my completely stock European 2009 R1 before the tune-up game :jump...

As you see the difference is HUGE (proper dyno calibration is a MUST here). I'll smooth it a little bit later, it was hard to hold the throttle all the time at 2%, 5%, 10%, 15% as the numbers flickered +/- 2% (I used a laptop to see how much I twist my hand). Suppose the dips in torque will flatten out similar to my best map trends when I ride more and accept further "city" trims at low throttle openings but for the next dyno runs will have to wait till Spring as snow is coming... :sleepy:
 

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#4,659 ·
Dayum, this looks good :thumbup
How does it feel in terms of rideability?
 
#4,660 ·
I'm trying to flash my 2011 R1, I follow instructions to the letter but when I connect the ecu connector finally, it makes 3 to 4 attempts and then fails. It shows error no. 2 in the bottom status pane. I have a windows 7 machine and I'm using the front usb ports; I'm also using the wall mount charger. Please help.
 
#4,663 ·
No I'm using Peen's map and made a couple of changes for fan, default A mode, speedo correction, etc.

I think the wall mount charger is bad. I'm going to try connecting to a battery and check. Will know by night.

On another note; the stock bike is about 6% off on the speedo I read. So I need to put in 94% in the speedo correction input right?
 
#4,664 ·
When I did the 88% correction for 16t front sprocket my speedo readings ended at 140 mph / a friend in front of me had 178 mph then/ so something is not right with that feature I think. Try yours and let us know if it works at higher speeds.
 
#4,671 ·
Indianfighter:

A couple of things to try before you bring out the hammer and smash your ECU to pieces :machinegu :scared
Check that the BNC sits snugly and run power from a battery instead of the wallcharger.

Click on the help function in the prog and run the "repair driver"

Reboot your comp and select a different USB port!

Finally you can try the voodoo trick:
Plug interface to USB port
Start prog-->do the adjustments.
Plug interface to 12V power.
Now you plug in the ECU->unplug ECU-->plug in ECU--unplug ECU-->plug in ECU in rapid succession.
Hit flash and fingers crossed, you`re good to go :thumbup
 
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