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Old 10-31-2012, 02:17 PM   #21
gsxcorey
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Here is an older pic. Not really sure of the exact weight as we revolve through them very quickly. Setting up more pallet racking now to expand the chain kit area in the next 48 hours when the rest of our cross members get in. Thanks to the forum members as well as without you guys we wouldn't be needing to expand our chain kit area. Here is a pic of the chain mover too...along with some of the closeout Gilles we have been blowing out to you R1 guys
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:51 PM   #22
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I went with the 520 pitch Driven Evo Spec Sprockets with RK GXW from MotoMummy







I've done 520 in the past with no issues... I get about the same mileage on this setup as I do on OEM I think the whole 520 myth was due to people using aluminum sprockets instead of AFAM's
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:53 PM   #23
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
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I went with the 520 pitch Driven Evo Spec Sprockets with RK GXW from MotoMummy







I've done 520 in the past with no issues... I get about the same mileage on this setup as I do on OEM I think the whole 520 myth was due to people using aluminum sprockets instead of AFAM's
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:56 AM   #25
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Cool some awesome dealers on here can some one PM me a GOOD price for Gold 520 chain with gold Sprocket (back one) standard gearing and posted to UK
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:00 AM   #26
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def go 520. i got the mvkx cuz it's gold looked the best to me. glad to hear it's still considered one of the best. i've already been through one rear sprocket, an aluminum drive systems. now i have driven aluminum, hopefully it lasts a little longer. but they cheap anyway. chain's still good.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:10 AM   #27
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ek mvxz is a damn strong chain and surely one of the best. When you swap rear sprockets that go bad without swapping the front or chain just pay extra attention to the chain as it accelerates the wear on the chain. When a sprocket is out of spec it stresses a chain in certain spots and puts it out of spec. They basically go out of spec together. If you then put an in spec rear sprocket on there with an out of spec chain it's harder on the chain and accelerates the wear even more. Just be careful because now your rear sprocket most likely isn't the weakest link, but the chain is and the last thing you want is the chain breaking on you. It's always best to replace a chain kit in full to ensure it all wears together, you get max life, and to ensure your chain doesn't go on you.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:19 PM   #28
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Talking about chain. A manufacturer was asking us what we thought about white chain. If it was a high quality chain (which it is) what do you guys think about white?
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:14 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Talking about chain. A manufacturer was asking us what we thought about white chain. If it was a high quality chain (which it is) what do you guys think about white?
White? Not for me Santa is going to bring me Gold
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #30
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If my bike was white that would be tits! But it's red...


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Old 11-03-2012, 07:59 AM   #31
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But please clean that gawd awful white lithium off before you ride. Stuff goes EVERYWHERE and is a PiTA to clean off. Use goo gone and wd40 and clean the crap off. Some people leave it on and it makes a nasty mess.


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Old 11-03-2012, 08:22 AM   #32
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As far as aluminum sprockets go, which are the lightest while retaining good strength (for an aluminum sprocket)? As long as it lasts 8k miles or more, I'm fine with that. I'm sure they're fairly close.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:57 AM   #33
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To be honest the normal alum compared to the "lightest" alum will only differ in an ounce or two so I wouldn't recommend going for a super light one as we have seen some lightweight sprockets completely break apart at their core (not teeth, but the core of the sprocket) due to being too light.

I would recommend the Driven Racing alum rear as they are great quality. Renthal and AFAM are also great alum sprockets, but they are imported so if you have an issue you won't get the level of service that you can get from Driven. That is the only edge Driven has over the other two. They also have a more modern anodizing process which allows them to have a black sprocket.

If you want super lightweight then I would recommend the DID ERV3 with an alum rear. Just realize if it's on a 1000cc bike you won't get much support from DID should something happen. However, the sprocket will be the weak link in the set up so it shouldn't be an issue at all. The one nice thing about having the sprocket be the weak link in the chain kit (vs the chain the weak link with a steel rear sprocket) is that it's better to sheer the teeth of the sprocket should something fail compared to having the chain break and take out your engine, swingarm, foot, rearsets, etc.

You can save money by getting the ek mvxz or rk gxw chain which is stronger (not relevant with an alum rear sprocket), but more importantly it's less expensive and only ounces more weight. You won't notice ounces of rotational mass, but if you want the lightest set up then the alum rear with did erv3 would be it.

I run alum rear with ek mvxz chain and clean/lube my chain kit all the time and my last rear sprocket lasted me nearly 15k miles. Maintenance is the #1 factor in the life of a chain kit
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Last edited by gsxcorey; 11-03-2012 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:04 AM   #34
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I'll be using an RK520GXW black chain very likely, I've had good success with the gold GXWs in the past. I'd been using driven stuff on my RC for the rear, guess I'll proceed with that. Do front sprocket weights vary much?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:07 AM   #35
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:14 AM   #36
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all front sprockets are steel of course. You can't make them out of alum as they attach to the bike using very small teeth and you would sheer alum teeth right off. You'll see what I mean when you look at a front sprocket.

The only difference in weight is if they drill extra holes in the body of the front sprocket. Not all manufacturers do. I can say that Driven does on all of their fronts. Renthal does on their 520, and AFAM does on their 520, but i've seen their 530's without those lightening holes drilled into it.

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I'll be using an RK520GXW black chain very likely, I've had good success with the gold GXWs in the past. I'd been using driven stuff on my RC for the rear, guess I'll proceed with that. Do front sprocket weights vary much?
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:30 AM   #37
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I've got a renthal 530 ultralight on there now, it's got holes drilled. I know they're steel. Various manufacturers use larger or smaller holes and anywhere from 6-9 (maybe wider range) of them. An ounce here or there adds up fast, so I try to be cognizant of that kind of thing.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:48 AM   #38
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Normally the size of the holes and how many on a front sprocket is due more to the model the front sprocket is and the tooth count as that will change the area that the manufacturer has to deal with. Yes, they do add up, but even added up you're only talking like 3-5 ounces which isn't much at all. However, with a front sprocket +1 on the holes as it doesn't cost extra so you might as well ensure you get them
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:51 AM   #39
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:21 AM   #40
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Why would you run a physically weaker item in an area like your drive train? You won't feel an ounce of difference between a 530 and 520 set up. Look past all the hype and get actual strength numbers for 520 vs. 530 chains.

Better yet, take a look at any endurance race bike. These machines are nearly flat out for 8-24 hours straight. Not one of them run a 520 set up. They all run 530's. If a 520 set up was in fact as close in strength to a 530 set up as every online vendor would have you believe, then wouldn't you see them on bikes that race for extended periods of time?
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