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Old 11-04-2012, 05:35 AM   #1
mchale2020
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Need insight on first generation R1s

Hey everyone,

I found a 2000 model R1 for sale on Craigslist with 22,000 miles. Just judging from the pictures, it appears to be a mostly clean bike, but as we learned in 2006 with MySpace, looks can be deceiving, either with old sport bikes and girls you haven't met in person just yet.

Anyway, I have had a lot of luck with 2005 R6. It's never given me any problems beside cleaning and re-calibrating the TPS and that was a thirty minute fix. I really like this generation of R1 I've found for sale and have been wanting to get the jump on one for a while. However, there are some weak areas that bug me about old sport bikes that I could use the forum's collective input on.

1.) The second gear issue. I won't dive too deeply into this subject and I think there are some variable that come into play. Was the bike abused? Did it see a lot of stop and go riding or consistent miles? Even preferences on drive chain slack can have an effect on the wear and tear of a motorcycle's sequential gear box. I think this issue comes down to seller honesty and being able to test ride the bike to know what you're getting into. Easier said than done, though.

2.) Charging system. A sport bike's charging system isn't meant to handle the load of a depleted battery that's set dormant for a couple of months without a trickle charger. It seems most owners are unaware of this fact, and when their bike starts to eat stators and regulator/rectifiers it's already too late. Age can only make it worse. On the flipside, with a little bit of effort on my part, my 2005 R6 is still on its original battery so it's not all doom and gloom.

3.) Suspension. If it hasn't been looked after every couple of years, the internals of the suspenders are probably the equivalent to the insides of a middle-school cafeteria microwave. Think about it.

4.) Engine. The engine on these bikes seem pretty solid. Does anyone know what the recommended service internal is for checking the valves? I know my bike is 26,600 but I don't know about these model R1s. Also, I know nothing about carbs. I imagine as long as you don't deviate too far from stock and the gasoline has never been left to ruin, the carbs shouldn't need too much attention. Also the Cam Chain Tensioner. Are the spark plugs easy to service on these bikes? I know the frame rails on my R6 obscure the outer cylinders and it takes a lot of know-how and elbow grease to get them out.

These are just some of my thoughts about the idea of picking up what I would like to think could potentially be a nice bike. It wouldn't see track days or any kind of hard riding, just easy cruising and possibly commuting for work. If any other forum members have any helpful input, I would be really grateful. I also have some pictures of the bike I can post if anyone would like to see. The graphics aren't quite right to the factory Cocktail Red and it has aftermarket fasteners.

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:50 AM   #2
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Very funny comparisons!

I'd say go look at the bike and take her for a ride if you can.

On another note, I'm not 100% familiar with the 00-02 models, but search around the forum and check the sections for those models, see what you find. I'm sure there are pages of good info

As for the suspension, I think a good oil change and freshen up would do just fine if its a street ridden machine
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:22 AM   #3
mchale2020
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Don't even get me started on my online dating experiences. In most cases, they've turned out to resemble audition rejects for Honey-Boo-Boo.

'Yew ride a bike?!? I luv bikes, take me for a ride!... More bacon, waiter! *nom-nom-nom* The doctor says my thyroid don't work good no more but I'm still pretty hawt.' *nom-nom-nom*

At this point, I think you're advice is all I can really do if this specific bike is what I want to buy. On the flipside, I don't mind spending more money on an older R1 that I feel 100% confident about from the get go that has a solid service history and an owner that's probably as OCD as me about upkeep. It's just difficult to tell if you're passing up on a good opportunity or if misfortune is tempting you into possible bankruptcy.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:51 AM   #4
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I have a 00 and although I haven't had the pleasure of comparing it to anything newer as I was out of the MC loop for the last 5 years, I absolutely love the power and handling. Mine is bone stock other than ss brake lines and rear fender kit.
Most people will agree to a test ride if money is on the table and some ground rules are discussed. As a buyer I wont buy unless I can ride it and that has saved me from some bad deals.
As a seller I make it clear if my bike is abused in ANY way during the test the deal is done and I keep the cash.
I understand that the valve check is around 25000 miles and have heard reports that claim no adjustments were needed in many cases. My bike belonged to my father and it was never abused and was very well cared for however the forks and shock have never been serviced. They feel fine and the bike now has 18000 miles. This winter I am replacing the original chain & sprockets and rebuilding the forks. Im curious to see how bad the fork oil is. I don't think time is nearly as important as mileage and riding style but we'll see soon. My dad didn't ride it much after he turned 70 and at 73 he decided a Harley was the way to go. So the garbs got gummed up and it would barely idol. A few tanks of fuel with sea foam and the bike runs perfect. I was pleased to hear people here talk about the carbed bikes and their strong low rpm power. They are still well respected on the track as well. You could also request a compression check to see if there is anything major or obvious going on. For the cost of a battery it would be worth replacing if you had any doubts about it at all.
Good luck and let us know if you make the deal
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:51 AM   #5
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Good choice,'98-'03 R1's are long stroke engines with a ton of low end/midrange. Yes 26,600 mile valve adjustment intervals. My '00 had a 2nd gear issue (repaired myself),probably from the thousands of dragstrip runs I put it through (and fvcked shifts). It will be an excellent street ride,very light with power off of idle. No charging system problems on mine in over 66,000 miles,sold to a co-worker that rides it to work most days. Only problem I have encountered was the starter motor (easy to replace) plugs are easy to replace as well. If I had the room for it, I wouldn't have sold it. If it looks and feels good, BUY IT ! Great bike.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:03 AM   #6
mchale2020
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Thanks for the input so far everyone, please keep the experiences going!

As for the sake of test riding, I would be pretty gentle with someone else's bike. I would treat it like my own machine and I would like to think that's a good thing as I have a great deal of mechanical sympathy.

Also, as a sidenote, I can't help but think the early generation R1 was probably the best overall. They seem relatively simple and built like a tank compared to what they evolved into in the later generations. Just my thoughts and why I like them.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:40 AM   #7
Uncle Jimmi
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Here is my R1 album on the bucket
http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/...9/Yamaha%20R1/



I plan on hunting down another one so I can preserve the one I have now and be more aggressive on the other. Send me the link and I will look it over for ya, lol
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:57 AM   #8
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UncleJimmi, please take a hairdryer to that swingarm sticker !
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:21 AM   #9
mchale2020
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Don't hate the sticker! My R6 still has its warning labels on the gas tank.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #10
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I think any year R1 if maintained correctly is a good buy. I have a Y2K that is as good as the day I bought it. I've seen others that looked like hell because they were poorly maintained.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:59 PM   #11
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1. 2nd gear issue is not just Yamaha. It has to do with shifting from a short 1st gear to a longer 2nd gear. If you pre-load the lever before you shift, you will have no issues. Don't know about the bike you're looking at but it's not going to automatically have 2nd gear issues.

2. Charging system. Very good on the 2000 R1. A lot of people have R/R issues but it has to do with heat and a crappy connector. There are aftermarket connectors plus a fan mod that will give you years of trouble free riding.

3. Suspension. It could probably use new oil but it's not the end of the world if you don't. You could pull the forks and do your own oil change in about 1 hour.

4. Engine. Rock solid and Uncle Jimmi is right, most valve checks are in spec. I plan on running mine til she melts down and then rebuild.

If you do buy, I'd plan of pulling the carbs and cleaning the pilot jets. You can run Sea Foam though the tank but it's hit and miss with the pilots.

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Old 11-04-2012, 05:56 PM   #12
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I agree with the comments so far.. For the 2nd gear issues, you simply have to test ride it. Here's what I would do:

1. Shift through all gears at city street pace, make sure all up/down shifts are smooth and consistent
2. get bike in 2nd gear, and then roll on the throttle HARD... make sure the bike pulls hard and stays in gear without slipping out

If it passes that test, I'd say you are ok on the transmission. There are a bunch of other things to inspect - I'd pull the plastics off and have a good look with a bright flashlight; look for signs of damage, oil leaks, any home mechanic hackery.

If the bike looks good, its down to price. The 00 R1 is an awesome machine.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:44 PM   #13
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I agree with the comments so far.. For the 2nd gear issues, you simply have to test ride it. Here's what I would do:

1. Shift through all gears at city street pace, make sure all up/down shifts are smooth and consistent
2. get bike in 2nd gear, and then roll on the throttle HARD... make sure the bike pulls hard and stays in gear without slipping out

If it passes that test, I'd say you are ok on the transmission. There are a bunch of other things to inspect - I'd pull the plastics off and have a good look with a bright flashlight; look for signs of damage, oil leaks, any home mechanic hackery.

If the bike looks good, its down to price. The 00 R1 is an awesome machine.
Ah, thanks Repoman for replying to my thread. I saw your rebuild thread and was hoping you'd give your two cents. On a different note, how is your rebuilt engine treating you thus far?
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:19 PM   #14
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Plug on rectifier only issue i had. Take it n clean it and use dilectric grease n forget it trannys not bulletproof. Test ride and run rpms up n first to 9500 or so n shift. Do it few times. If it pops out or engages hard then it could be issue. Yes valves checked at 26k but never had to change shim n valvetrain ever. Its good to check it but if its good all is well. Theyre great bikes. I would buy one n heartbeat. Love low end they have!
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:16 AM   #15
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Plug on rectifier only issue i had. Take it n clean it and use dilectric grease n forget it trannys not bulletproof. Test ride and run rpms up n first to 9500 or so n shift. Do it few times. If it pops out or engages hard then it could be issue. Yes valves checked at 26k but never had to change shim n valvetrain ever. Its good to check it but if its good all is well. Theyre great bikes. I would buy one n heartbeat. Love low end they have!
Damn dude, where you been???
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:54 AM   #16
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everyone has stated the obvious issues... I have 2 99 R1's of my own, I love the carb'd beasts... also they are easy to modify/upgrade as well but nothing is needed in the motor they are strong out the box

only other issue I have ever had was my battery cable being corroded and caused it to turn over but not enough juice for the coils to send a charge properly.... replaced the cables and was good to go...
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:40 PM   #17
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Ah, thanks Repoman for replying to my thread. I saw your rebuild thread and was hoping you'd give your two cents. On a different note, how is your rebuilt engine treating you thus far?
The rebuilt bike is running good - I did a 3000 mile trip on it in July, and it will be on the big track at Willow Springs a week from today. This will be its biggest test since that track is wide open and you are at redline frequently- the real test will be if I trust it enough to run it hard. I've had one pesky little oil leak due to the mating surface of the upper crankcase and the head having been worn and no longer being perfectly flat near the rear locator dowel, but its more annoying than a serious issue.
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