HOW TO: Check compression, valves, SYNC throttle bodies, and tune up. - Page 5 : Yamaha R1 Forum
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:53 PM   #81
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saves me from making a new how-to...

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Old 03-01-2011, 03:02 PM   #82
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It was a lot of work, but well worth it!

BTW, when you doing a how-to for tearing down a 04-06 motor? I can't wait for that.


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saves me from making a new how-to...

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Old 03-01-2011, 03:04 PM   #83
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Funny you mention that, I have one in the garage right now that needs a rebuild...

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Old 03-16-2011, 12:40 AM   #84
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how much does a valve job cost if you take it to a shop?
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:48 AM   #85
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how much does a valve job cost if you take it to a shop?
depends on the shop. local economy, dealer vs private, trustable or not...
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:29 PM   #86
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good stuff
thank you for all the work
lots to read here and learn
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:02 PM   #87
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depends on the shop. local economy, dealer vs private, trustable or not...
I agree, but the most favorable one is the trustable. Find a good mechanic that does the right job and isn't a hack is most important, well to me anyways.


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good stuff
thank you for all the work
lots to read here and learn
Glad I can help.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:21 AM   #88
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Help the link to the manual doesnt work anymore. Does anyone have another link?
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:27 AM   #89
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Thanks for the post, 2 questions

1. I've started the teardown so if I do a compression test now, it will be with a cold engine, how important is it that the engine is warm?

2. Why does the manual say to remove the throttle body but you say it isn't necessary? What is the issue with the throttle body? Will it be difficult/impossible to reach the intakes? with the throttle bodies still there? That is where I got stuck last night because I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit the intake manifold clamps...stopped at Princess A on my way to work to buy more


I know, that was more than two questions, sorry.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:33 PM   #90
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Sorry about the delay, i see this was posted a couple weeks ago. But I'll try to help out anyways.

1. If you already started the tear down, you can do a compression test regardless. I recommend doing a compression test on a warm engine to ensure everything internally is well lubricated with oil, and to get the most accurate results while performing the test.

2. Sometimes service manuals give you the most difficult routes to take while working on a piece of equipment. Removing and reinstalling the throttle bodies can be a PITA. But removing the side fairing, and lowering the radiator offers ample room to work with, and a clear line of sight of all the valves.

Hope that helps.



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Originally Posted by dmaxr1 View Post
1. I've started the teardown so if I do a compression test now, it will be with a cold engine, how important is it that the engine is warm?

2. Why does the manual say to remove the throttle body but you say it isn't necessary? What is the issue with the throttle body? Will it be difficult/impossible to reach the intakes? with the throttle bodies still there? That is where I got stuck last night because I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit the intake manifold clamps...stopped at Princess A on my way to work to buy more


I know, that was more than two questions, sorry.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:26 AM   #91
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So I did encounter 1 problem...mine is an 03 and the procedure is pretty much the same. However on the 03, the motor is much more "in" the frame than on the 04. Getting the valve cover back on with the gasket in place took a lot of wiggling, patience and swearing . I thought that removing the throttle bodies would help, but it didn't. The key was carefully removing the wire ties that are mounted inside the frame. Remove them with care and they can be reused. With those out of the way, the valve cover will fit back into place.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:13 PM   #92
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Thanks for all the write-ups!
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:47 PM   #93
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I recognize that this is a fairly old thread, but I just want to offer my thanks as I'll be executing a valve clearance adjustment and throttle body sync shortly. Your guide is going to be invaluable to me in that endeavor.

Thank you!!!
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:28 PM   #94
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Quick question: I'm about to tackle this job, but it's fairly obvious to me that if one needs to replace shims to adjust valve clearances, the cam shaft(s) will need to be removed. Do you have any EDU steps on this process, mostly to ensure that I do not reinstall incorrectly (out of timing)?

With ~40,000 miles and counting, I'm guessing my valves will, in fact, be out of spec. Also, while I'm in there, should I replace the timing chain? I guess it makes sense if I'm that far into the motor, but I'd rather not have to deal with it if it's not critical at this mileage. The Service Manual is nonspecific about this, so I'm guessing it's fine to not replace it?
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:44 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxr1 View Post
So I did encounter 1 problem...mine is an 03 and the procedure is pretty much the same. However on the 03, the motor is much more "in" the frame than on the 04. Getting the valve cover back on with the gasket in place took a lot of wiggling, patience and swearing . I thought that removing the throttle bodies would help, but it didn't. The key was carefully removing the wire ties that are mounted inside the frame. Remove them with care and they can be reused. With those out of the way, the valve cover will fit back into place.
Yeah, sometimes patience and dropping f-bombs will help conquer a task. lol.

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Originally Posted by HouseForsaken View Post
Thanks for all the write-ups!
Glad I could help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silas View Post
I recognize that this is a fairly old thread, but I just want to offer my thanks as I'll be executing a valve clearance adjustment and throttle body sync shortly. Your guide is going to be invaluable to me in that endeavor.

Thank you!!!
Glad I could help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silas View Post
Quick question: I'm about to tackle this job, but it's fairly obvious to me that if one needs to replace shims to adjust valve clearances, the cam shaft(s) will need to be removed. Do you have any EDU steps on this process, mostly to ensure that I do not reinstall incorrectly (out of timing)?

With ~40,000 miles and counting, I'm guessing my valves will, in fact, be out of spec. Also, while I'm in there, should I replace the timing chain? I guess it makes sense if I'm that far into the motor, but I'd rather not have to deal with it if it's not critical at this mileage. The Service Manual is nonspecific about this, so I'm guessing it's fine to not replace it?
Unfortunately I cannot personally offer any experience on shimming the valves. But I would say regardless of mileage, if you were to discover a valve(s) out of spec, then consult the service manual for which size shim to purchase and install.

The best advice I can offer is taking your time when taking on this task. Especially using the feeler gauges to get an accurate reading to determine what size shim to use.

Hope that helps.
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:24 PM   #96
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Thanks for the response. One other question; is there any reason you can think of why regular old motor oil wouldn't work in the homemade manometer? I built one this afternoon, but the only thing I have handy is some 10w50 motor oil. Sure, I can go buy a bottle of ATF, but it seems like a waste when I have this stuff sitting here. And I can't imagine why it'd make any difference.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:20 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silas View Post
Quick question: I'm about to tackle this job, but it's fairly obvious to me that if one needs to replace shims to adjust valve clearances, the cam shaft(s) will need to be removed. Do you have any EDU steps on this process, mostly to ensure that I do not reinstall incorrectly (out of timing)?

With ~40,000 miles and counting, I'm guessing my valves will, in fact, be out of spec. Also, while I'm in there, should I replace the timing chain? I guess it makes sense if I'm that far into the motor, but I'd rather not have to deal with it if it's not critical at this mileage. The Service Manual is nonspecific about this, so I'm guessing it's fine to not replace it?
The cams have timing marks on them that line up with arrows on the cam caps (when at TDC). The lower sprocket on the timing chain (under the side case cover) also has a mark that lines up with the split line in the cases.

If you line up all of those items it should be "timed" correctly.
Check it by turning the motor forward slowly by hand a few times and re checking the alignment.

I hope that addresses the question you were asking.

It wouldn't hurt a thing to replace the timing chain but I've not heard of a great deal of them failing either.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #98
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Holy frakkkkkk thats a write up! Didnt notice it years ago. Amazing job bro!
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:48 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silas View Post
Thanks for the response. One other question; is there any reason you can think of why regular old motor oil wouldn't work in the homemade manometer? I built one this afternoon, but the only thing I have handy is some 10w50 motor oil. Sure, I can go buy a bottle of ATF, but it seems like a waste when I have this stuff sitting here. And I can't imagine why it'd make any difference.
I wouldn't use motor oil for a number of reasons. The main ones being oil, which has a higher viscosity than water or mercury. Which will cause it to "stick" easier, thus giving an inaccurate result. And oil will absorb air bubbles much easier, and retain them.

Water with some form of dye in it would be best for a homemade manometer. Mercury is toxic, and a real pain to get air bubbles out of the manometer.

Last bit of information regarding a manometer. DO NOT rev the engine excessively. If you grab a handful of throttle, you risk sucking the manometer fluid into the engine.

Hope that helps.

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Originally Posted by Rhynocerus View Post
Holy frakkkkkk thats a write up! Didnt notice it years ago. Amazing job bro!
Thanks buddy.
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:07 PM   #100
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