FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

[laxwendrof]

Originally Posted by SySt

Yes, but where would it store the log? And how would you access the log? The only way the FT software writes to flash ROM is by first wiping the ROM memory and then writing. Obviously that sort of operation would not work for storing log data. It would be nice if two input/output pins on the ECU could be used for serial communication and then have an external device simply log ECU information sent through the serial lines. Of course, doing it this way you might as well use an external data logger in the first place. I built a suitable logger out of an Arduino board and an SD card shield. I am currently logging TPS, RPM, Speed sensor, MAP, AIT and AFR at 20Hz but it's capable of logging at over 50Hz. Total cost was under $100. Of course, I am also using an already existing wideband setup (Innovate Motorsports LC-1). I also made a program for my computer that will load up a map file and log file and generate a trimmed fuel map based on a target AFR map. So I guess I really don't need FT to make an AT feature anyhow .

Hi SYSt I have big appeal could you explain in a few bulletpoints (step by step) how the PCV+AT unit should be calibrated for FT (rn22)?

[SySt]

Originally Posted by laxwendrof

Hi SYSt I have big appeal could you explain in a few bulletpoints (step by step) how the PCV+AT unit should be calibrated for FT (rn22)?

What Elwin posted 3 posts ago explains the procedure very well. Have you read it yet? I will add though that the PCV must be energized when you twist the throttle in diag mode or else the throttle will only partially open and will sort of "freeze" due to what must be a signal error. On an 07-08 and possibly beyond: To energize the PCV the injector/fuel pump circuit must also be energized (it's the circuit the PCV gets it's power from). You can do this by disconnecting the fuel pump connector and apply 12v+ to the proper terminal in the connector on the harness side. Consult the service manual for the right terminal. I'm not sure if the 09+ wiring is the same as the 07-08 in that regard but the idea is the same, the PCV must be energized and connecting it to a computer via USB does not cut it (Major ground offset between computer and TPS).

If there is something you are still confused about, ask a specific question so we know how to help.

[Elwin]

Auto tuning is not as easy as just having it on all the time and riding the bike. You actually need to do the runs as on the dyno.
The button to enable-disable autotune is mandatory.
You must have the latest update to PCV software for the autotune to work correctly.
Correct way to auto-tune:
0. Always tune well heated engine - not just coolant temperature but the engine block (oil) must be heated up to at least 80C.
1. Have auto-tune off in normal conditions
2. When you ready to do a tune run, flip the button to enable autotune and twist throttle to "required"% gradually over vise ECU will do "accelerator pump" enriching mixture momentarily (yes it does that). So start with 1500 - 2000 pm with a goal to get to required tps position when you hit 3000 on high throttle openings and less on the lower openings. When you hit rev limiter, flip button again to disable auto tune so it would not f@ck up the map during engine breaking/neutral throttle.
3. You need about 10 runs to be sure PCV got it right.
4. Repeat point 2 for 100%, 80%, 60%, 40, 20, 15, 5, 2. You will not hit rev limiter on lower throttle openings, so flip the button when RPM stabilize.
5. You need to have linear proportional YCC-T map to do precise tuning. You can change it to anything you like later.
6. You need to have something indicating your tps while you autotuning - for example power commander LCD unit. You can also use same unit to datalog to SD card and then re-calculate fueling corrections based on that log.
7. When you done - accept changes to PCV fuel table.
8. Repeat the same process at least 5 times.
9. Now flash PCV map to ECU.
10. Repeat all above another 5 times at least. Watch out for errors in mapping. Your experience will grow so eventually you will get it right.
I would recommend to auto-tune on gear 4, so you have reasonable load, and time for AT to sample.

[laxwendrof]

Originally Posted by SySt

What Elwin posted 3 posts ago explains the procedure very well. Have you read it yet? I will add though that the PCV must be energized when you twist the throttle in diag mode or else the throttle will only partially open and will sort of "freeze" due to what must be a signal error. On an 07-08 and possibly beyond: To energize the PCV the injector/fuel pump circuit must also be energized (it's the circuit the PCV gets it's power from). You can do this by disconnecting the fuel pump connector and apply 12v+ to the proper terminal in the connector on the harness side. Consult the service manual for the right terminal. I'm not sure if the 09+ wiring is the same as the 07-08 in that regard but the idea is the same, the PCV must be energized and connecting it to a computer via USB does not cut it (Major ground offset between computer and TPS).

If there is something you are still confused about, ask a specific question so we know how to help.

sorry was big delay between my last posts

[laxwendrof]

Originally Posted by Elwin

Auto tuning is not as easy as just having it on all the time and riding the bike. You actually need to do the runs as on the dyno.
The button to enable-disable autotune is mandatory.
You must have the latest update to PCV software for the autotune to work correctly.
Correct way to auto-tune:
0. Always tune well heated engine - not just coolant temperature but the engine block (oil) must be heated up to at least 80C.
1. Have auto-tune off in normal conditions
2. When you ready to do a tune run, flip the button to enable autotune and twist throttle to "required"% gradually over vise ECU will do "accelerator pump" enriching mixture momentarily (yes it does that). So start with 1500 - 2000 pm with a goal to get to required tps position when you hit 3000 on high throttle openings and less on the lower openings. When you hit rev limiter, flip button again to disable auto tune so it would not f@ck up the map during engine breaking/neutral throttle.
3. You need about 10 runs to be sure PCV got it right.
4. Repeat point 2 for 100%, 80%, 60%, 40, 20, 15, 5, 2. You will not hit rev limiter on lower throttle openings, so flip the button when RPM stabilize.
5. You need to have linear proportional YCC-T map to do precise tuning. You can change it to anything you like later.
6. You need to have something indicting your tps while you autotuning - for example power commander LCD unit. You can also use same unit to datalog to SD card and then re-calculate fueling corrections based on that log.
7. When you done - accept changes to PCV fuel table.
8. Repeat the same process at least 5 times.
9. Now flash PCV map to ECU.
10. Repeat all above another 5 times at least. Watch out for errors in mapping. Your experience will grow so eventually you will get it right.
I would recommend to auto-tune on gear 4, so you have reasonable load, and time for AT to sample.

Elwin sorry was a big delay in my last posts

Edit:

Elwin
Hmm must say, the most consistent and professional information about pcv+at GREAT WORK. I and marider can send you some small pocket of money as support for your further work and effort which you already done.

[SySt]

Originally Posted by Elwin

Auto tuning is not as easy as just having it on all the time and riding the bike. You actually need to do the runs as on the dyno.
The button to enable-disable autotune is mandatory.
You must have the latest update to PCV software for the autotune to work correctly.
Correct way to auto-tune:
0. Always tune well heated engine - not just coolant temperature but the engine block (oil) must be heated up to at least 80C.
1. Have auto-tune off in normal conditions
2. When you ready to do a tune run, flip the button to enable autotune and twist throttle to "required"% gradually over vise ECU will do "accelerator pump" enriching mixture momentarily (yes it does that). So start with 1500 - 2000 pm with a goal to get to required tps position when you hit 3000 on high throttle openings and less on the lower openings. When you hit rev limiter, flip button again to disable auto tune so it would not f@ck up the map during engine breaking/neutral throttle.
3. You need about 10 runs to be sure PCV got it right.
4. Repeat point 2 for 100%, 80%, 60%, 40, 20, 15, 5, 2. You will not hit rev limiter on lower throttle openings, so flip the button when RPM stabilize.
5. You need to have linear proportional YCC-T map to do precise tuning. You can change it to anything you like later.
6. You need to have something indicating your tps while you autotuning - for example power commander LCD unit. You can also use same unit to datalog to SD card and then re-calculate fueling corrections based on that log.
7. When you done - accept changes to PCV fuel table.
8. Repeat the same process at least 5 times.
9. Now flash PCV map to ECU.
10. Repeat all above another 5 times at least. Watch out for errors in mapping. Your experience will grow so eventually you will get it right.
I would recommend to auto-tune on gear 4, so you have reasonable load, and time for AT to sample.

The only reason a "square" YCCT map would be useful for this tuning method is so that you could keep the TPS constant by keeping the throttle tube in a constant position so as to populate map data in whatever TPS you are shooting for. Is this what you are indicating? Otherwise I'm not sure I agree...

You still have yet to answer this: If you are tuning on a dyno (unless it's a really old one or one not designed for a bike) why would you tune to a target AFR rather than tune for performance? As a matter of fact, it would be better to tune to a target AFR on the street than it would be on a dyno. It's hard to say that any dyno would be able to simulate the effects of riding through the wind at over 100mph. Yes, I realize there is speed compensation built into the ECU which is supposed to make of for the difference. The reality of it though is that it's not an exact compensation, just one that is supposed to work "good enough". Tuning to the target AFR on the street vs on the dyno will minimize any error due to the speed compensation. Especially if you weight your data based on gear position with say 3rd and 4th having the greatest weight while the others gears have proportionally less weight.

I definitely agree with on only auto-tuning with a warm engine for the same reasons you wouldn't set carb settings on a cold engine. You are also correct about throttle transients causing an "accelerator enrichment" effect. Regardless of how you auto-tune you want to keep throttle transients to a minimum when collecting data.

[Elwin]

I agree.

[indianfighter]

Alright boys I finally got the interface and now I'm lost. We don't have any dynos in our country so I have to rely on the community for help.

Can someone share a good map for my 2011 otherwise stock except for a racefit black series single low mount exhaust. It's a 3/4 to 1/2 system I think.

Our temps here are between 25 to 35 degrees celcius, high humidity and our octane rating is not the best so ignition map can't be altered much I guess?

I'm mainly looking for a good fuel map, reduced engine braking and usable A mode as it's pretty un rideable in A mode right now. Maybe a slightly altered ignition map too? And an explanation of the flash would be helpful.

It would be great if we had a database of some sort of the flashes. Sorry I can't search through the entire thread as I'm using this forum through the phone app.

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Motorcycle.com Free App

[Tad158]

Go into the FAQ and read it. Then grab the Peen V2 ECU image from the link in the post. Use that for a starter.

[indianfighter]

Thanks mate. I got peen's map now. Is the explanation of the map in the zip?

My bike is Japanese or Australian or European. Where can I find the stock map if I ever want to go back to stock?

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[n4speed]

Originally Posted by indianfighter

Thanks mate. I got peen's map now. Is the explanation of the map in the zip?

My bike is Japanese or Australian or European. Where can I find the stock map if I ever want to go back to stock?

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You can't go back.. also you will loose the imobilizer.. i would recomend for you to buy an used ecu..

[indianfighter]

I know I'll lose the immob and don't care but can't go back to stock settings? There is a base US map, why not European?

I can't find any notes about what peen's map changes. Anyone?

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[laxwendrof]

Originally Posted by indianfighter

I know I'll lose the immob and don't care but can't go back to stock settings? There is a base US map, why not European?

I can't find any notes about what peen's map changes. Anyone?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Motorcycle.com Free App

Dear, I have a full set of genuine ECU(EU) with 3 keys(red) and immobiliser and full EU harness!!!!!!. ECU(eu) is orignianal without flash I wonder that maybe somebody of you need this as the replacement or spare ECU also maybe somebody would like to convert his US bike on EU harness and (eu)ECU if yes give me PM. Price is really low for r1 forum guys

EU(ECU)+Immo+3 keys(red)+EU harness

ECU(eu) 2009/2011

Also can send pictures. Maybe FT will be interesting to get a full EU harness with ECU, what you reckon ?

[Tad158]

Didn't the newest version of the software have the stock EU ECU?

[n4speed]

Originally Posted by Tad158

Didn't the newest version of the software have the stock EU ECU?

No..

[graphitegripper]

does anybody have any ycct maps for an 07-08 that theyre willing to share?
been running the block style from TAFB and it works well but i want to smooth it out.
thanks all

[indianfighter]

So I'll have to resort back to a US base map? Is that ok on an EU ecu and wiring harness? What are the major differences between the 2, any links to read up?

[chrispy121]

so just a question to be clear.
I set the tps on a pcv so it is zero with the engine off effectivly 7 voltage.
then when the engine is running it rears 2% throttle on the power commander.
and 100% is normal
then it is ok just to flash the pcv map into the ecu?

I am going to the dyno next week and plan to tune then flash and check but dont want to redo because we stuffed it all up. reading the thread it only effects the lower throttle openings like 2 and 5%?

[Sydster]

lets see if i got this right, if i flash wit this map> 2012 R1 y-pipe & slip-on.ftm downloaded from ft website, this includes both timing and fuel changes?

[indianfighter]

Originally Posted by Tad158

Go into the FAQ and read it. Then grab the Peen V2 ECU image from the link in the post. Use that for a starter.

I can't find any explanation for the changes this map makes. Can someone point in the right direction to read up?

Does this smoothen out the twitchy A mode on/off throttle sensitivity? Does this apply uniformly to all modes? I'm a little wary and want to be sure before flashing as once done there is no going back. Flash tune has zero documentation about their interface and software so this forum is my only hope.

Originally Posted by Sydster

lets see if i got this right, if i flash wit this map> 2012 R1 y-pipe & slip-on.ftm downloaded from ft website, this includes both timing and fuel changes?

I'd like to know that too.