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Drag Racing 1/8 and 1/4 mile Performance.

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Old 01-11-2008, 01:28 AM   #21
drag king
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all swingarm ext will fix i have one that was not for my bike AND THAY WORK YOUR AXLE AND YOUR CHAIN TENSIONER ON A BIKE ARE ALL THE SAME
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Old 06-10-2008, 12:22 AM   #22
machz69
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Hi guys.. going to try out my 07 this weekend and I was thinking of strapping the bike down. does anyone have any pics of their bike strapped? just thinking of ratchet straps

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2008, 10:48 AM   #23
pjb84
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Originally Posted by machz69 View Post
Hi guys.. going to try out my 07 this weekend and I was thinking of strapping the bike down. does anyone have any pics of their bike strapped? just thinking of ratchet straps

Thanks

This Friday will be my first time at the drag strip. Im thinking about buying a strap but dont even know anything about them.

Thanks,
Peter
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:18 PM   #24
dhardgrove
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Originally Posted by 1longR1 View Post
gearing all depends on weight. and yes 1 down in front is like plus 3 in rear. but going down 1 on 04 up.. is like stock sprocket on 98-03.. so no problems with chains there, tho its good idea and chain will last longer with rear sprocket change. honestly...its all about wheelbase.. if you go up 3 in rear.. then get longer chain to utilize that extra inch of WB instead of it sucking rear tire up 1 inch with different rear sprocket. if you see all prostar 1000ss bikes.. rear wheel is as far back as it can go in adjusters. so whichever u go.. get longest wheelbase u can out of it and improve 60ft times and help from wheelieing.

clutch...its good idea to remove hub and basket and check it. specially after smoking one till its dead. also take time to pull pan... clean pan and oil strainer, so u dont spin bearing after 2 sets of clutches burning up.. only takes a little time.. but can save u $$$. plus always change oil when doing clutch... its cheap insurance.. dont be tightwad.

suspension.. run as little preload as u can.. u want rear suspension to work, that will keep front end from coming up as well. u want weight transfered to rear as far down track as u can for traction purposes. run top(compression) setting on soft(counterclockwise) as far as it will go(helps rear squat and weight transfer quicker) and bottom adjuster(rebound) set to hard(clockwise) this will keep rear end down as long as possible and keep more traction on tire.

tires.. shinko is best for $$$ and yes spencer is best place to get them. tirepressure.. run as much tire pressure as u can and not spin. some tracks suck.. run less air. good starting spot on stock bike is 25 psi.. go down from there until you get consistent good traction, add few lbs and see what it does. anything under 8 and tire can spin on wheel. longer WB.. less air unless ur heavier. everything in dragracing is effected by weight of bike and rider!! front tire.. u want as little rolling mass on ground.. run 40-45 psi.... some guys run as much as 60 in tires.

chain.. lubed up great chain.. is slower. bike on dyno picks up 2 hp just removing all orings.. make sure its lubed..but dont get carried away. clean it with wd40 or kerosene and give it light coat of chain lube.. or just run wd 40 and lube when u get home. make sure axles are tight, but not overtight. this can pinch bearings and give u more friction. nascar guys pull brake caliper and push them alll way apart on qualifying.. less drag on them.. tho not good idea on bike.. but u get idea.

also if ur hardcore..check into ceramic bearings for wheels.possibly motor..(expensive) but worth 2-4hp and few hundredths.

there is no replacement for seat time. practice and practice some more

keep log book with all ur entries.. all ur times and RT. also keep track of how much u win or what it cost to enter race(who knows might need it on ur tax return) but good idea to see what temps and elevation due to times.. also great for dialing bike in if you mess up on time trials.. u can go back and see what bike ran with similar 60ft or 330..say u miss shift.. all this can help u dial bike in.

run bike same everytime.. stage it same. let it cool down same. cool down at least 15 minutes will help ur clutches. i remove oil fill cap and zip tie clutch lever pulled after each pass to get cool air to them and let clutch plates cool with them pulled apart. plus zip tie is easy to remove and reuse. i stick mine on ignition key..that way i dont loose it

safety.. always be on safe side. wear boots or shoes that cover ur ankles. leather or armored jacket a must. kill switch a must at most tracks. if u have leathers...dont be fool.. they zip together for a reason.. if u like i will show u pics and video of whyu should do it. helmet and gloves.. well they speak for themselves. also dont run u bike if u dont feel right or bike doesnt feel right.. its just not worth it. be on ur game and ready to win at all times.. bracket or heads up racing.. attitude is everything. also listen to track instructions and go to drivers meetings.. some times things change.

watch other bikes. learn from them. body position, track conditions, launch rpms, shifting..everything.. plus gives u practice at track. if u dont learn something new at track each time.. then ur not watching enuff. ive been doing it 15 plus years now.. still learn about track or see something to work on.

keep urself hydrated and fed. bike being in tiptop shape wont matter if u pass out during a run(ive seen it happen) wear sunscreen and ballcap and loose light clothing.

have fun.. if not ur not doing it right. dont get down if bike doesnt run what u expect. make best of it. enjoy sport, plus get others to join in. offer tips and suggestions, we all need more bikes in class.
damn bro you nailed it.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:55 AM   #25
haro456
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ok im thinking about gearing my bike but im getting alot of people saying that i shouldnt. i have a 07 r1 and im only 150lbs. what do you guys think
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:36 AM   #26
sircharles1
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Originally Posted by haro456 View Post
ok im thinking about gearing my bike but im getting alot of people saying that i shouldnt. i have a 07 r1 and im only 150lbs. what do you guys think
gear it

down one in the front and up two in the back
maybe even three in the back if you really wanna come out the hole... but your top end is gonna suck if you don't change it for regular street riding
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:20 AM   #27
czarredd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sircharles1 View Post
gear it

down one in the front and up two in the back
maybe even three in the back if you really wanna come out the hole... but your top end is gonna suck if you don't change it for regular street riding
Would you suggest gearing for street riding? If so, 1-down in front, 2-up in back? Thx!
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:05 AM   #28
wheeliek!D
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does anyone know what cams are good to use for a 07 r1?
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:44 PM   #29
DragMyR1
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Originally Posted by wheeliek!D View Post
does anyone know what cams are good to use for a 07 r1?
hot cams if you can find em, web cams

check out this site

http://www.danosperformance.com/Yama...%20Package.htm
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:25 AM   #30
Dragtek
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wow this is awsome, I havent raced my 98 r1 in about 4 years, and getting back on it now. you guys are really helping remember what i need to do. i got back on and ran a 9.24 after 4 years, is that still a good time for a stock motor bike with extentions and spray?
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:59 AM   #31
bqueenielouisa
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Please tell me that where can i get the quality drag racing parts at cheaper price? Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:24 AM   #32
bigterd
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what model of cams are people running in the 2008's also looking at dry kits any brands better?
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