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Mechanical / Help This area to for help in the areas of, engine, carbs, transmission, suspension, mounting etc
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11-17-2012, 08:43 AM
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#1
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JOKER BANAJA
Join Date: Nov 2012
Bikes: YZF-R1 2009
Location: DUBAI
Posts: 66
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How to troubleshoot starter problem
Instructions:-
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Make sure the key and kill switch are both in the "on" position. Ensure that the proper starting procedures for your bike are followed. Is it in neutral? Clutch pulled in? Gas in the tank? Then try to start your bike. Does it turn over? If not, check to see that the battery is properly connected and the terminals are not corroded. If they're loose or dirty, clean and tighten them. Then, using a voltmeter that measures ac/dc and ohms, check to see that your battery has enough charge to crank the engine. If not, replace or charge your battery and try again. If it still doesn't turn over, there may be a loose connection between your battery and starter; a bad ignition or starter switchl or a bad safety relay. Check a repair manual for proper testing procedures for your bike, as each motorcycle differs.
2
If your bike turns over but doesn't catch, check to see that it's getting fuel. If the bike has a fuel petcock, make sure it is in the "on" (or, on certain bikes, "prime") position. Then remove the main fuel hose and check to see that fuel is flowing freely. If fuel isn't getting to the carburetor or injection system, your bike won't run. If that's the case, your problem is likely something in the fuel system. If fuel is flowing freely, reattach the lines. If it's not, check to see if the fuel filter is clogged, if a line is pinched or if the petcock is working properly. One way to determine if the problem is in your fuel system is to put a few drops of fresh gas into each spark-plug hole, replace the plugs and turn the bike over. If it starts and then quits, the problem is likely in the fuel system.
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If you're getting fuel and the bike turns over but still doesn't catch or start, check the spark plug or plugs. Start by pulling off a spark plug wire, then removing a plug using the spark plug socket supplied in your bike's toolkit. Now inspect the plug. It should not be wet (usually caused by fuel, when the plug is not firing) or coated in carbon/burned oil deposits. Now check to see if the bike is getting spark. Although you can get a special, insulated set of pliers to hold the plug, there's a "quick and dirty" method for this: After reattaching the plug wire, lay the threaded part of the plug against the engine (not over the plug hole, as the spark could ignite any fuel that is blown out when you try to start it). Now, making sure you're not in contact with the engine or plug, hit the starter. You should see a nice blue spark. If you don't, make sure the threaded portion of the plug is touching the engine (but the electrode is not) and try again. If you still don't see a spark, you either have a bad plug or a problem with the electrical system. Check to see that all the ignition wires are properly connected and that you can't see any cracks in the wires. If the wires are cracked, they should be replaced. If you're still not getting spark, it's time to consult a repair manual or call a mechanic.
4
If you've got fuel and spark, ascertain that your bike is getting enough air. Start by pulling off the air filter. If it's too dirty, you won't get the proper mixture of air and fuel in the carburetor or injection system. If it's clean, check to see that the air box is properly connected-- a loose hose or air leak can feed too much air into the system. If your bike is equipped with a choke, ensure that it's able to move freely and is not stuck in the "on" or "off" position.
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If you've followed these steps and still can't get your bike to run, call in an expert. If you think you've narrowed down the source of the problem, describe the steps you've taken to point the mechanic in the right direction.
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11-18-2012, 07:28 PM
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#2
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livin the dream
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes: '06 R1 pearl white
Location: Syracuse
Posts: 452
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How about this. I started my bike tonight after it was sitting in the cold all day. Was about 32 degrees out when I started her. Turned on fast as normal but the idle was really rough, then shut off. Then I couldn't get it started again. Turned over just fine but wouldn't catch. Finally started after I opened up the throttle.
I've started it in much colder weather. Doesn't seem like a battery issue since it was turning over fine. Whats strange is it ran for a good 20 seconds then died.
Any ideas to help ironaddicts trouble?
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11-25-2012, 03:26 AM
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#3
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JOKER BANAJA
Join Date: Nov 2012
Bikes: YZF-R1 2009
Location: DUBAI
Posts: 66
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Measure again the battery while the engine is running
If it read on the maltimeter around 13 vdc ,,If not reading 13vdc the stator doesn't charge the battery
Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
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11-25-2012, 09:09 AM
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#4
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Booya
Join Date: Oct 2003
Bikes: 1943 Indian Scout 741
Location: Middle of the savannah river
Posts: 34,231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironaddict
How about this. I started my bike tonight after it was sitting in the cold all day. Was about 32 degrees out when I started her. Turned on fast as normal but the idle was really rough, then shut off. Then I couldn't get it started again. Turned over just fine but wouldn't catch. Finally started after I opened up the throttle.
I've started it in much colder weather. Doesn't seem like a battery issue since it was turning over fine. Whats strange is it ran for a good 20 seconds then died.
Any ideas to help ironaddicts trouble?
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Thick oil and cold weather with engines that don't like the winter. Sometimes you just need to baby a motor for a minute until she's warmed up enough.
Every bike i've owned and even some cars when they are cold just don't like to initially run. Feeding a little fuel in will assist and if you can adjust your idle up a few hundred that helps as well.
__________________
"Universe is 14 billion years old. Seems silly to celebrate one year. Be like having a fvcking parade every time I take a piss." -- ShitMyDadSays
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fikays
Yeah it was head trauma alright....but it was my little head that was traumatized by your mouth. 
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11-25-2012, 09:53 AM
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#5
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I RACE U LOSE
Join Date: Oct 2011
Bikes: 2000 R1 SOLD & 2006 R1 50th Anniversary & 2012 R1 50th G.P. Anniversary#145
Location: Philly now Langhorne Pa.
Posts: 2,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironaddict
How about this. I started my bike tonight after it was sitting in the cold all day. Was about 32 degrees out when I started her. Turned on fast as normal but the idle was really rough, then shut off. Then I couldn't get it started again. Turned over just fine but wouldn't catch. Finally started after I opened up the throttle.
I've started it in much colder weather. Doesn't seem like a battery issue since it was turning over fine. Whats strange is it ran for a good 20 seconds then died.
Any ideas to help ironaddicts trouble?
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Shatty ethanol fuel, could be water in fuel (ethanol attracts it) , ethanol (10%) seperating from rest of the fuel mixture (90%), is very bad for engine as alot of the octane comes from the ethanol. Go to a boat supply shop or bike shop (or online) and get some Startron Fuel Enzyme Treatment, will "repair" any ethanol related issues you could be having. I use it in every engine I own, it will make any engine run better and cleaner, and as a bonus keeps fuel fresh upto 2 yrs. I have a Toro 2stroke snowblower with 2yr old fuel in it, still fires right up after sitting and runs smooth. I work on small engines and see alot of water in "fresh" fuel just bought from the pumps, not to mention f'kd up carbs from the water in them. Sorry for the rant, just see alot of damage from ethanol fuels and the water they may contain, the ethanol alone kills fuel system parts, without water in it.
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'06 50th GYT-R CarbonSlipons,Akra Y Graves stacks,blockoffs,covers BMCair Bazzaz Zafm Zfi mapsw Vortex w/520ERV3 Shogun sliders Vortex rearsets Renthal med.comp Ballistic12cell Stompgrip CRG levers Galfer SBK fr&rr rotors ProboltTi  '12 50th WGP#145. Graves full Ti carbon ex,stacks,blockoffs BMCair Yosh case,oilfill,yokenut,axleblocks Renthal w/520ERV3 CRG RC2's Watsen's Shogun framesliders Renthal med.comp Ballistic8cell ProboltTi  Lucky 13th R1-013Squadron Member
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11-26-2012, 10:03 PM
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#6
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livin the dream
Join Date: Sep 2009
Bikes: '06 R1 pearl white
Location: Syracuse
Posts: 452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick kurt
Shatty ethanol fuel, could be water in fuel (ethanol attracts it) , ethanol (10%) seperating from rest of the fuel mixture (90%), is very bad for engine as alot of the octane comes from the ethanol. Go to a boat supply shop or bike shop (or online) and get some Startron Fuel Enzyme Treatment, will "repair" any ethanol related issues you could be having. I use it in every engine I own, it will make any engine run better and cleaner, and as a bonus keeps fuel fresh upto 2 yrs. I have a Toro 2stroke snowblower with 2yr old fuel in it, still fires right up after sitting and runs smooth. I work on small engines and see alot of water in "fresh" fuel just bought from the pumps, not to mention f'kd up carbs from the water in them. Sorry for the rant, just see alot of damage from ethanol fuels and the water they may contain, the ethanol alone kills fuel system parts, without water in it.
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Thanks man just ordered a bottle. I didn't have another issue starting it after that, but it wasn't as cold. I was thinking the fuel pump was dying but I'll wait to see next year as I just got a foot of snow.
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