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Old 12-06-2012, 08:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drjak View Post
you know what I meant oh fast one.


That is not what you said though, you said "no way" in terms of using premium kit on the street. Yes sag can be achieved with springs but it's really all about the $ you want to spend. I guess I'm the one doing it wrong.... doing my best, financially wise, to have a balanced bike in terms of suspension front and rear. Spring changes work great for sag but the shiny gold pieces help so much better with feel and absorption which will drop your times and help you in the twisties or help you when you make mistakes at either.

Fast guys are fast. You can put them on a stock bike and they'll be fast, even if the springs are wrong.

He mentioned that he rides in intermediate so from the sound of it he's been there before so he's already worked on riding skill and continues to do so. The gold bits will only help with that and yes they aren't necessary.
we agree

At the end of the day I guess our perspective is the only thing different in what we would choose to spend money on and that's something the OP needs to decide.

In addition, when I say street, No Way...I probably should have asked HOW he rides street. I'm on average, mid pack A...when a bunch of racers show up, I'm low pack A . I have NEVER touched a knee on the street and I doubt I ever will, so that could very well be a difference in our opinion as well.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:41 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by z064life View Post
we agree

At the end of the day I guess our perspective is the only thing different in what we would choose to spend money on and that's something the OP needs to decide.

In addition, when I say street, No Way...I probably should have asked HOW he rides street. I'm on average, mid pack A...when a bunch of racers show up, I'm low pack A . I have NEVER touched a knee on the street and I doubt I ever will, so that could very well be a difference in our opinion as well.

At BHF you were running slower than some slow paced I guys I know too.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:51 AM   #23
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At BHF you were running slower than some slow paced I guys I know too.
That was probably because of a rolling roadblock named Small-T
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:58 AM   #24
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I been doing street riding and now racing for 2 years so far. Currently podium on intermedium level and mid pack at expert level.

I used to race stock, then I put 30mm front and ttx36 a few months ago.

The difference between yamaha’s stock suspensions and ohlins is just a fraction of a second a lap, major improvement is on a better feeling of the track and what the tires are doing when leaned up to the very edges of the tire.

Since you described yourself as a street rider and ocasional track day participant, I suggest you not to spend so much money on ohlins. It doesn´t worth it.

Given you weight you are a bit over the stock spring suspension range. Put new springs for your weight, set the suspension properly, and you are done.

Most of the time people says ohlins are su much better is because they were running on stock suspensions with a burned/degradated oil (no servicing), improper suspension springs for their weight, improper damping setup. Then while switched to ohlins, the springs were choosen right, fresh top oil, and ohlins already provides you a good base damping setup for most conditions.

just my 2 cents
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:45 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by z064life View Post
we agree

At the end of the day I guess our perspective is the only thing different in what we would choose to spend money on and that's something the OP needs to decide.

In addition, when I say street, No Way...I probably should have asked HOW he rides street. I'm on average, mid pack A...when a bunch of racers show up, I'm low pack A . I have NEVER touched a knee on the street and I doubt I ever will, so that could very well be a difference in our opinion as well.
I spend my money on it because I made the mistake of riding my RC51 with proper springs (oem shock and forks) and Ohlins valves back to back with a friends with full Ohlins front and rear about 10 years ago at the track. I wasn't heaps faster but I was marginally faster, but the feel was incredible, "like wiping your ass with silk." Felt the contact patches much better. For me it was night and day for others it won't be. I'd rather have a TTX and Carts and skip out on all other mods if $ strapped.

Track I'm in intermediate along with the OP. I have no delusions that I'm one of the "fast guys". I'm there to have fun, work on apexes and corner exits. Many times I say fvck the lap timer and go with friends to have fun. But we really only go to the three local tracks which are outdated, one of them is slow as shit, and after a while are boring. We are more inclined these days to pack up and hit the twisties, riding at the PACE with radar. Knee drags are rare, and while the rear is scrubbed edge to edge the fronts have nice pussy on there. We'll see if COTA drops their prices in the coming years. I'd love to push there. If we get decent prices I think a SV650 raggamuffin is in my future.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:13 AM   #26
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Good question! I have wondered about the bang for the buck on the street myself. But they are purty!
Same here but I think I'll do some light aftermarket rims first. Not sure but I think you may feel more bang for your buck with less un-sprung weight.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:16 AM   #27
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It helps, but you really need to get magnesium or carbon to benefit marginally on the R1. The stockers are pretty light for OEM units. The few forged aluminum ones I looked into save only 3-4lbs between both wheels. Of course there's MOI to consider, but it would make more sense to go all the way. I had forged aluminum wheels on my RC51, but the stock wheels on it were much heavier.

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Old 12-06-2012, 11:19 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mmerelles View Post

Most of the time people says ohlins are so much better is because they were running on stock suspensions with a burned/degradated oil (no servicing), improper suspension springs for their weight, improper damping setup. Then while switched to ohlins, the springs were choosen right, fresh top oil, and ohlins already provides you a good base damping setup for most conditions.

just my 2 cents


I'm not saying its a waste of money by any means...but any time people say something is leagues ahead of what it was (different plugs, tires, suspension, air filter...), chances are the set up wasn't proper before changing
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:26 AM   #29
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I'm not saying its a waste of money by any means...but any time people say something is leagues ahead of what it was (different plugs, tires, suspension, air filter...), chances are the set up wasn't proper before changing
That's because you are a Mechanic and use to seeing worn out shit!
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:35 AM   #30
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Did you like those plugs I posted last week
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:54 AM   #31
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Well fk I'm doing it wrong because Ohlins hasn't saved my ass on the track

I'll say it for the last time....Ohlins will help...your riding ability will help MORE. If you are scrimping and saving....work on your riding ability first
^^^^^^^^ Work on riding ability first. ++++ a million
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:02 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by AKDMA View Post
It helps, but you really need to get magnesium or carbon to benefit marginally on the R1. The stockers are pretty light for OEM units. The few forged aluminum ones I looked into save only 3-4lbs between both wheels. Of course there's MOI to consider, but it would make more sense to go all the way. I had forged aluminum wheels on my RC51, but the stock wheels on it were much heavier.
Oz's forged aluminum (Piegas) are pretty light as are the Marchesini Genesi's. They are both newer designs and they have lighter weight to prove it. The 10 spoke Marchesinis weigh the exact same as the OEM wheels on planker.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:45 PM   #33
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I have had both upgraded oem forks and ohlins rt. I think ohlins give a slightly better feel and feels just softer. Hard to explain.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:07 PM   #34
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Same here but I think I'll do some light aftermarket rims first. Not sure but I think you may feel more bang for your buck with less un-sprung weight.
If given the choice of $2500 for wheels or suspension, you'll definately get more from suspension. Most wheels in $2500 range won't be significantly lighter than oem. I can't really say the difference was all that noticable when I switched to PVM forged alum wheels and they were about 6lbs total lighter.
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The full factory backed superbike r1's don't make 200bhp so its not happening here. 180 is pretty good, 185+ is exceptional. All this talk of 200+ is just horseshit
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:10 PM   #35
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If given the choice of $2500 for wheels or suspension, you'll definately get more from suspension. Most wheels in $2500 range won't be significantly lighter than oem. I can't really say the difference was all that noticable when I switched to PVM forged alum wheels and they were about 6lbs total lighter.
woudl you do suspension or CF wheels if they were roughly the same price?

Full Ohlins forks + TTX MKII shock will be about the same as dymags on sale....the dymags might even be cheaper
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:12 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by z064life View Post
woudl you do suspension or CF wheels if they were roughly the same price?

Full Ohlins forks + TTX MKII shock will be about the same as dymags on sale....the dymags might even be cheaper
yeah but those Dymags look so damn heavy.
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The full factory backed superbike r1's don't make 200bhp so its not happening here. 180 is pretty good, 185+ is exceptional. All this talk of 200+ is just horseshit
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:14 PM   #37
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yeah but those Dymags look so damn heavy.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:16 PM   #38
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I'd do the wheels first, then rear shock, then fronts.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:35 PM   #39
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Guys it don't matter if they work or not! They are just PURE! manufactured SEX! That's enough!
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:53 PM   #40
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Guys it don't matter if they work or not! They are just PURE! manufactured SEX! That's enough!
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