Because I coun't find much info anywhere, i will do my best to give you as much info as i can as I carry out this project.
Method: Kit ! (purchased and arrived!) self fitting
Cost: $5000 max (i hope. looks good so far)
Time: Kit build from manufacturer + 1 week (expected)
Expectations: up to 210 WHP - aiming for 200. expecting: 195-200 (on minimum 98 Octain fuel.
subscribed. did you do a dyno pull on the bike to get base numbers to see what the kit really adds?
Yep. the bike was never a ball buster. last mapping was 159 without ram air.
the kit is from TTS Performance http://www.rotrexsuperchargers.co.uk..._yamahar1.html (spot on redgeko)
The inlet and airfilter configuration, has been modified to fit pointing backwards next to the head and above the pulley and looks MUCH neater than where it was origionally jammed infront of the head in their pictures.
It's pretty well bolt on, though i will have to modify the fuel pump, compression ratio, fairing, ECU and Fuel map (off the top of my head)
I'm picking up 2 new standard head gaskets tomorrow (not included in the kit) which will drop the compression enough to still use pump fuel (minimum 98), and I will alter the regulator in the fuel pump to allow the pump to run up to 4.5bar (standard is 3bar).
It's not quite a 1 day job for me, im working on a video for the build and plan to check clearences and tollerences whilst im rootin' around in there.
here's an unremarkable pic of getting things ready for the build.
I have the head gaskets, and have started tearing the bike to peices.
On day 1, I have learned the following:
1. Removing the fuel pump is as easy as removing a ship from inside a bottle.
2. I was reminded that foam backed heat shield doesnt like fuel
3. This kit is far from bolt on, but that adds to the fun!
4. the exhaust and engine block will need to be modified
5. my hopes of doing this while still mounted in the frame are proposterous!!
not advertised as a bolt on, more along the lines of a kit with everything needed. I assumed it would pretty much be whack it on and 'make her take it!' but its going on regardless.
by placing the a blanking rivet in the fuel pump regulator
this will aparrently cause the pump to run at 4.5 bar instead of 3 bar. the rest is done with mapping through stock injectors with a PCIII in my case. i dont expext to need to do anything to the clutch, since its not a massive power addition