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Old 01-02-2013, 03:01 PM   #21
boosten lebaron
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What does the OP plan to do for better brakes? Seems like you should already have a good system now.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #22
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I disagree. Buy cf wheels and they're worth every cent in increased performance. Massive difference to your ride. And who cares about $50 for another sprocket when you're spending 3-4k on rims?
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:03 PM   #23
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Dave Moss did a review of some Carrozzeria V Track wheels that you might find informative:

//http://feelthetrack.com/?page_id=959

He's a very respected suspension tuner, and did a very in depth review.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:27 PM   #24
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The Oz Piegas will save you several lbs per wheel and won't cost you $2500. If you contact Adam at motowheels he'll hook you up for less than 2k.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoC-BlocER1 View Post
From what I have read..it appears wheels can save maybe 10-15lbs. That's not bad.

That's overly optimistic, unless you go with CF rims.

Lighter rims are an outstanding mod. I put Marchesini forged mag rims on my 998 and it was pure magic.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:32 PM   #26
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Don't worry about actual weight savings, worry about the rotating mass/inertia that is reduced.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Don't worry about actual weight savings, worry about the rotating mass/inertia that is reduced.
aye, i just read through Dave Moss' thoughts and it seems it does have a great deal of effect on the bike...

though it seems getting the rest of the bike & chassis to play nice is a bit of an issue... which leads me to believe its probably best to do suspension and wheels around the same time... just so you can get it dialed in right...

im' kinda surprised to learn Dave found there to be that much of a difference, with a mere 5lbs loss... {unsprung weight mind you}
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:30 PM   #28
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Brakes I was looking at Brembo fronts, but thus far, brakes seem to be fine and stop pretty well. Thanks for the motowheels tip. I will hit him up.
As far as the CF rims, they look great, but a lot more $$$. I was trying to stay around $2200. I was looking at the ALUM rims..maybe MAG if I can find a deal. I will probably get black, so they won't look any different than stock, so it's not as much for the bling factor. There are a lot of good write ups on the weight savings, unsprung, etc. That's why I posted to see what others have noticed. Thanks all!
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:42 PM   #29
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Aluminium wheels are barely lighter than OEM, some are heavier. So totally not worth the money. The amount you spend is directly proportional to the gains you make. If you can stretch your $ to magnesium, you'll be much more impressed with your investment. Look carefully into the lifespan of your wheels too. BST's claim a 10 year lifespan on their CF rims. Marchesini recommend yearly scans of magnesium wheels, for cracks.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:46 PM   #30
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yeah thats the issue i bump up against... if you're going with black rims, and pretty much anything like the OZ piegas looks pretty much the same as OEM rims... so whats the point!? hahah.... i'm very skeptical on this whole big difference thing though... there are several members who do a lot of track riding and most have said they noticed nothing at all... which im' guessing if you go with something like several spokes in a Y formation or the like, I would assume the weight savings would not be as great so i fail to see any point other than bling...


i have done some research in the matter, and I would personally not go with magnesium, as CarbonaR1 has mentioned... most manufacturers do not recommend them for street use at all.. and i'll be damned
if i take my baby out around these parts with something that can so easily crack... i could be wrong... but it appears that if you actually want something that is gonna last and show some performance improvements, you'd have to go with CF... .02


interesting #s.. here yah go!! this was off bmws1krr forum..

Quote:
Default Wheel weights

-------------------------------

Marchesini Genesi M7 Forged AL - 8.0F & 11.0R
OZ Forged AL - 8.35F & 12.60R
Carrozzeria TRI-R Forged AL - 6.1F & 8.5R
PVM Forged AL - 7.15F & 11.2R
Carrozzeria V-Track AL - 7.8F & 13.4R
Marchesini 10 spoke AL - 9.85F & 13.85F

BST CF - 7.14F & 12.39R

OZ Mags - 6.8F & 10.10R
Marchesini Mags - 6.04F & 7.76R

S1KRR OEM Cast AL - 9.75 & 16.00R
damn... even BST CF dont seem to be much of a weight savings... do those #s seem right to you CarbonaR1?
looks like they're off somewhat... pics posted by another member


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CLEVER WOLF CF, RIZOMA grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18,

Last edited by bacchus40; 01-02-2013 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
yeah thats the issue i bump up against... if you're going with black rims, and pretty much anything like the OZ piegas looks pretty much the same as OEM rims... so whats the point!? hahah.... i'm very skeptical on this whole big difference thing though... there are several members who do a lot of track riding and most have said they noticed nothing at all... which im' guessing if you go with something like several spokes in a Y formation or the like, I would assume the weight savings would not be as great so i fail to see any point other than bling...


i have done some research in the matter, and I would personally not go with magnesium, as CarbonaR1 has mentioned... most manufacturers do not recommend them for street use at all.. and i'll be damned
if i take my baby out around these parts with something that can so easily crack... i could be wrong... but it appears that if you actually want something that is gonna last and show some performance improvements, you'd have to go with CF... .02


interesting #s.. here yah go!! this was off bmws1krr forum..



damn... even BST CF dont seem to be much of a weight savings... do those #s seem right to you CarbonaR1?
looks like they're off somewhat... pics posted by another member


BST doesn't give specs for every application . And even though you may think the physical weight isn't that much the MOI difference is HUGE on a CF wheel.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:39 PM   #32
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local fellow posted this about the BSTs... good read...

Default
Well, I have more than 30,000 miles on a couple different pairs of BSTs.

My 2005 ST4S has been running BSTs for 6 years and around 25,000 miles. And that bike has not been babied! The rims has dealt with sleet, temps ranging from 30 to 105 degrees. Potholes have been hit. Etc. Etc. I have never had an issue with the rims not performing flawlessly.

By far the biggest problem with the wheels is getting the tires changed. Since my ST4S only used on long trips - usually a week or more and 2,000+ miles - I often need to get the tires changed by unfamiliar shops. This is a concern since a deep scratch can mean the end of the rim, whereas a deep scratch on an aluminum rim is a cosmetic issue. Earlier in this thread a post mentions a rim being destroyed during a tire change. I have no doubt the person changing the tire applied far more pressure than necessary on the rim. However, if it was an aluminum rim there probably would not have been an issue. I've also come across shops that won't change tires on CF rims. OK, I probably wouldn't want them to change my tires anyway!

In fact last year I had new tires mounted by my local shop and they did damage the front rim. Luckily, they are a great shop and they had replaced the rim before I even knew there was an issue! I walked in to pick up the bike and the Service Manager handed me the warranty papers for my new rim. "Uh, what do you mean" I asked. He then explained the rim had moved on the tire changer and been damaged. A local supplier happened to have a replacement in stock. I wouldn't expect that kind of customer service whilst on the road!

BSTs are more susceptible to structural damage than metal rims. There is no two ways about that. However, from my experience they are more than up to the task for everyday riding.

There are horror stories, sure, but just consider how many thousands (tens of thousands?) of BST rims are out there.
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DJ PCV, AT200 & POD300, Leo Vince EVOII SBK/ARROW SS HEADER, GRAVES STACKS & AIS, GYTR, ECUnleashed, SHORAI, YOYODYNE sc, HINSON bskt, EBC SRK, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech chain adjust, ANNITORI RL
CLEVER WOLF CF, RIZOMA grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18,
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z064life View Post
MOI difference is HUGE on a CF wheel.
sorry, MOI!?
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CLEVER WOLF CF, RIZOMA grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18,
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:20 PM   #34
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Personally I would go with CF rims or stick with oem unless you just want to purchase them for the looks. The oem's have gotten the weight of oem wheels down to that of aftermarket alum wheels which only leaves those pushing aftermarket wheels to say "it's where the weight is on the wheel, they are still worth it". which may be true, but I highly doubt it. The oem can't be dumb enough to lower the weight and forget that weight further out on the wheel plays a greater factor. However, those pushing aftermarket alum wheels know damn well you don't have the ability to see where the weight is. Look at what the oem's build...damn near the entire bike, but you don't think they can figure out a wheel?

From comparing weights and all. Stick with oem or go CF wheels if you want performance. If you're after looks then get whatever you like the looks of.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
sorry, MOI!?
Moment of Inertia. Basically it's not only weight you want, but also you want that weight as central to the hub as possible.

This is actually what pushed me to Dymag over BST as they released their MOI and application specific weight data
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:51 PM   #36
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Thanks for all the feed back and different opinions, glad I asked. Stuff to think about. Well, since I'm looking for weight loss and performance, and probably around the same cost..would it be a better idea to do the exhaust first? Are there some weight savings to be had there? I was thinking Akrapovic. Then I also have to re-map etc? right? Now I just have the GYTR slipons.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:16 PM   #37
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Graves full Ti link system and an ecu flash (Flashtune) will get you 15hp at peak and a much better torque curve (+11 or more in mid), losing 11lbs too.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoC-BlocER1 View Post
Thanks for all the feed back and different opinions, glad I asked. Stuff to think about. Well, since I'm looking for weight loss and performance, and probably around the same cost..would it be a better idea to do the exhaust first? Are there some weight savings to be had there? I was thinking Akrapovic. Then I also have to re-map etc? right? Now I just have the GYTR slipons.
Quote:
Originally Posted by quick kurt View Post
Graves full Ti link system and an ecu flash (Flashtune) will get you 15hp at peak and a much better torque curve (+11 or more in mid), losing 11lbs too.
Sprung weight does not equal unsprung weight which further doesn't equal unsprung Rotating weight

So 11lbs on an exhaust is the not even in the ballpark of 11lbs in the wheels

Do you have an aftermarket Y pipe? If so no full system will shead a lot of weight though you will save some...and I have a full Leo Vince corsa (full Ti) for sale
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:29 PM   #39
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But it will sound good! And give better drive off the corners
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:56 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z064life View Post
Moment of Inertia. Basically it's not only weight you want, but also you want that weight as central to the hub as possible.

This is actually what pushed me to Dymag over BST as they released their MOI and application specific weight data
ahh, okay, i figured it was something to do with that.. thanks.. interesting tidbit...


as far as aft. market exhaust making a difference, i wouldnt know as i've never ridden a stock Xplane R!

but CF does sound great
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DJ PCV, AT200 & POD300, Leo Vince EVOII SBK/ARROW SS HEADER, GRAVES STACKS & AIS, GYTR, ECUnleashed, SHORAI, YOYODYNE sc, HINSON bskt, EBC SRK, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech chain adjust, ANNITORI RL
CLEVER WOLF CF, RIZOMA grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18,

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