FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

AKDMA · 01-14-2013, 09:01 AM

Does it fire on the first turn for you guys? Without fail, my bike takes two starts every single time if it's cold. Thanks for sharing that table Oillfield!

quick kurt · 01-14-2013, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Powerflux

Going to try those values, thanks!!

I noticed something strange in the ign table! In column 29-94 up to 1800 rpm, I have the value 33. In column 100 however, I have the value 13. Considering how the values steadily increase from column 0,6-94 and through the rev range, the value 13 really looks out of place

Shouldn't be an issue, how often are you at 100% throttle at 1800 rpm ? Never I'd imagine.

Powerflux · 01-14-2013, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quick kurt

Shouldn't be an issue, how often are you at 100% throttle at 1800 rpm ? Never I'd imagine.

No, you`re right of course! I just wonder why the prog chucks out such weird values??

quick kurt · 01-14-2013, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKDMA

Does it fire on the first turn for you guys? Without fail, my bike takes two starts every single time if it's cold. Thanks for sharing that table Oillfield!

Mine takes two also, not a big deal. Tries to start on the first with almost no cranking time at all, starts right up on the second.

quick kurt · 01-14-2013, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Powerflux

No, you`re right of course! I just wonder why the prog chucks out such weird values??

Stock map is like that too, mostly 11's at 100% at low rpm.

Powerflux · 01-14-2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quick kurt

Mine takes two also, not a big deal. Tries to start on the first with almost no cranking time at all, starts right up on the second.

Excactly what mine does too!!

Tad158 · 01-14-2013, 10:48 AM

AKDMA, If you have a Li battery in your bike, that is standard operating procedure. The Li batters must warm them selves up with a current draw. When it is really cold, it will take 5-8 tries for my Alien 8 cell to fire up the planker (again totally typical and not a sign of a dead battery), but it never fails. Once hot, just a touch of the button and it springs to life.

AKDMA · 01-14-2013, 11:02 AM

Never had that problem on other bikes. If it's cranking, it's putting out the necessary voltage..?

Sent from my SGS3

Oilfieldtrash21 · 01-14-2013, 11:08 AM

Try putting a "26" in the map at .6% and 800 RPM (top left box). That might help it fire off better.

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Tad158 · 01-14-2013, 11:17 AM

Does not crank fast enough....and it is a know idiosyncrasy of the 8 cell with the x-plane. They actually recommend the 12 cell for the new gen R1's. I am also talking about bout temps below 30F. Above 50F it has no issue. Between 30-50F roughly 4(30F)-2(~40) attempts and it will start.

Also, it just doesnt have the ability to put out enough current when cold, things like the dash will reset on the first hit when really cold. The battery just has to warm up, not an issue at all.

Oilfieldtrash21 · 01-14-2013, 11:24 AM

Hmmm......ok makes sense. I wouldnt totally rule out timing adjustment to help with the slower cranking speed. Since it finally got winter time cold here and riding days are few and far between, I'm doing a teardown to install a thinner head gasket. That increased compression is totally going to need a retune for timing. Funny how timing can affect so much.

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R1evolution · 01-14-2013, 12:36 PM

Mine stock does the same thing. takes 2 slight cranks before it starts.

also something to consider is that it takes a sec for the crank position sensor to see whats going on and feed the info to the ECU.

Powerflux · 01-14-2013, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R1evolution

Mine stock does the same thing. takes 2 slight cranks before it starts.

I`m running a stock batt and it does excactly that, a friend of mine`s 09 does excactly that too so I`m thinking that is just how the plankers are!!

AKDMA · 01-14-2013, 01:48 PM

That sounds more along the lines of what I was expecting. Just one of it's quirks! I can live with that. Thanks guys. Mine starts on the 2nd crank about 90% of the time. I was thinking it might be a flash tune bug. I never rode mine prior to flashing.

Powerflux · 01-14-2013, 01:56 PM

One thing that puzzles me a bit tho is that if I accidently release the starterbutton after only 1 crank/rev, it`s an effin bitch to get started requiring quite a few cranks to get going

R1evolution · 01-14-2013, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Powerflux

One thing that puzzles me a bit tho is that if I accidently release the starterbutton after only 1 crank/rev, it`s an effin bitch to get started requiring quite a few cranks to get going

why that happens is the ECU see's a cold start signal and it add start up fuel to the cycle. When it is cut short it doesn't know that fuel has already been added, so it added more fuel which create a prolong crank over. or basically it floods it.

yman294 · 01-14-2013, 05:26 PM

So I sent my ECU of to FlashTune to be flashed. I still have a few on answered questions. I emailed them and have not had a response yet. 1 question is when you send your ECU in to be flashed , do they send you your exact ECU back to you? My second question or statement rather is I did ask for it to start off in A mode, and it does not. It has a sticker on top of it now showing the modifications made to the ECU. I am attaching a picture of that sticker. 1 of my questions it is do I disconnect my o2 sensor now? Or do I leave it plugged up and installed? What does race YCCT mean? I am excited to see how it rides with the new flash . If anyone can help me out with these questions I would appreciate it thank you.
also a question that I have is about the closed loop. Is that section after a flash now open to make changes? And am I better off running the generic map that flash 10 installed or what I be better off using my Power Commander 5 with their map?
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fastkx125 · 01-14-2013, 05:46 PM

Any issues with the current version of the software? I'm about to reflash again since the install of my race baffled stock slipons. I'm still running the first version of the flash and my bike runs great. Do I really need to reflash for race baffles? I don't mess with the idle or the engine braking anyways.

quick kurt · 01-14-2013, 05:55 PM

Not sure if it's the same one,should be though. Your pic kinda sucks,can see default to A mode isn't selected on sticker. YCCT is the flyby wire throttle, the "race YCCT" maps let throttles stay 100% open at 12000rpm and up, where the stock YCCT maps start closing the throttles down to 84% at 12000rpm and up. This alone gives 8hp at peak if not more, is o2 sensor checked off on sticker? You can leave o2 in either way, the stock o2 only works at 6000rpm and less.

R1evolution · 01-14-2013, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastkx125

Any issues with the current version of the software? I'm about to reflash again since the install of my race baffled stock slipons. I'm still running the first version of the flash and my bike runs great. Do I really need to reflash for race baffles? I don't mess with the idle or the engine braking anyways.

if you took out the cat i would. if not i would run it as is. baffles dont change that much i think.