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ECU flashed or not?

2K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  bacchus40 
#1 ·
I have been researching the ECU unleash and the flashtune for some time now. My bike starts in A mode. So would that mean that it has been flashed already?

I bought it used.
 
#5 · (Edited)
not necessarily bigred, it was an option... as is increased idle, and lower engine braking and so on and so forth..


but none of these bikes start on A mode stock... I would take the VIN and call ECUnleashed & Flash tune n' see if its listed.. I know for a fact ECUnleashed will have a record of it... and by fact i mean a really good guess... hahahah... you can also pop your left side plastics {sitting on bike} and take the 3 numbers listed on your ECU, either of the two flash company's should def. have a record of this!..

if you've never ridden a crossplane before, you probably cant tell the difference yourself...

what other mods does the bike have that you can tell? saw your blurry pic, all i can see is 2bros exhaust..
 
#6 ·
Thanks, I will give them a call tomorrow and run the numbers by them.

It has PCV w/autotune, cat elim., block offs, quick shifter, and race filter. All those I put on and I was about to do the ECU but just came across the fact that it starts in A mode. So I didn't want to send it out if it was already done by the previous owner. I bought the bike from a dealer so I am not sure what they took off before I got it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
okay well here you go.. if you're running auto tune, then chances are they would have removed the 'closed loop' area below 6k rpm.. this closed loop {programmed into stock ecu} did not allow for
any A/F ratio adjustment below 6k rpm so of course if you're running an auto tune you need access to this area...

easiest way to check is actually open up your PCv software and check if the area below 6k rpm is grayed out, meaning you cannot make any adjustments to it... at least i believe thats how it works, you can check with DynoJet on here as well for confirmation.. heck, just checking your current map should show you weather you have varied A/F values entered below 6k rpm.. if you do, then obviously the AutoTune was used, and of course you have a reflashed bike... you can also check under your tank {see service manual or autotune install pdf} and see if there is anything attached where the stock 02 sensor would have been.. if there is a small black box attached to it, that is the DJ magic {02 optimizer} black box which would cheat the ECU into bypassing the locked loop section.. unplug it and see if you get a code... {your ypipe will have a bosch 02 sensor running up the auto tune / pcV}.. if there is no black box present under the tank, and you have no error codes, you have a re-flashed ecu..

but i would def run the numbers by ecunleashed or flashtune, if there is record of it with ecunleashed it would serve you well to know what options the orig owner went with...

savvy?

further info on the little black box... for completeness...

if you open up the DJ blackbox.. there are switches that let you adjust the desired AFR.. its set to DJs idea of the perfect blend between emmisions awareness & gas mileage... if that makes sense.. but you can adjust it!.. this is what you would use to set AFR below 6k rpm in the absense of a re-flashed ecu
 
#8 ·
okay well here you go.. if you're running auto tune, then chances are they would have removed the 'closed loop' area below 6k rpm.. this closed loop {programmed into stock ecu} did not allow for
any A/F ratio adjustment below 6k rpm so of course if you're running an auto tune you need access to this area...

easiest way to check is actually open up your PCv software and check if the area below 6k rpm is grayed out, meaning you cannot make any adjustments to it... at least i believe thats how it works, you can check with DynoJet on here as well for confirmation.. heck, just checking your current map should show you weather you have varied A/F values entered below 6k rpm.. if you do, then obviously the AutoTune was used, and of course you have a reflashed bike... you can also check under your tank {see service manual or autotune install pdf} and see if there is anything attached where the stock 02 sensor would have been.. if there is a small black box attached to it, that is the DJ magic {02 optimizer} black box which would cheat the ECU into bypassing the locked loop section.. unplug it and see if you get a code... your ypipe will have a bosch 02 sensor running up the pcV.. if there is no black box present under the tank, and you have no error codes, you have a re-flashed ecu..

but i would def run the numbers by ecunleashed or flashtune, if there is record of it with ecunleashed it would serve you well to know what options the orig owner went with...

savvy?
Thanks for the input. I will try some of this once I get to the bike in NY tomorrow. I have seen the optimizer under the tank. And as far as the A/F values being blocked out I can not recall off the top of my head. It has been a couple months since playing with all that.

I have both o2 sensors on as well. I am assuming the stock sensor and optimizer wouldn't be needed if it was flashed.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yamaha dealers had nothing to do with this.... i'm talking about when you actually purchase the re-flash service from ECUnleashed or even diy selfers FlashTune... not everybody liked the idea {or even understood why} to raise their limiter RPM ... some of these options arent even available from every ECUnleashed "dealer" either... it mostly depends where in the food chain they are, lol... I had mine done by Nels @ 2wheeldynoWorks, he's got a direct line to Taige @ EcuNleashed and I was able to get every option available, including raising the stock idle RPM by a couple 100 rpm, something we used to be able to adjust via a choke, which these bikes dont have. Everything about the bike is hard-coded into the ECU, the only way to adjust these values is via a re-flash.

Removing Restrictions and maximizing performance……..

ECU Modifications – (options may vary per vehicle)

* Remove Factory Timing Retard
* Remove Throttle Restrictions
* Increased Idle {i found my bike idled too low, and it would bog down at lights, very, very annoying.! there was also an option to raise it to race track level needs, but its overkill for the street imho}
* Increased Rev Limit {stock was hard knee limiter @ 13750rpm, mine is now soft knee @ 14250, trying to test for reflash looking for this is not the brightest idea... :lol :shake}
* Remove Speed Limiters (Gear Dependent)
* Reduce Excessive Engine Braking/Improved Deceleration {some one who has ridden a stock Xplane would know what this feels like right away... wouldnt even take 20 feet, huge difference}
* Improved Throttle Control & Reaction
* Remove Injector Shut-Off on Deceleration {this was done for emissions on stock bike, causing abrupt throttle respone, on/off switch feel... big time suckage.!}
* Eliminate Factory “Error codes” (ex. exhaust valve, steering damper) {i believe this is where the 02 sensor / black box fix comes in as well}
* Improved Fuel Maps {A,STD mode mappings.. optimized}
* Improved Ignition Maps
* Injector Phasing Adjustment
* Velocity Stack Switching Adjustment (Variable Stacks Only) {will probably have this done in the future, as i purchase graves stacks}
* Race Fuel Mapping Accommodations {i did not choose this option, as i will never run Race Fuel}
 
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