sup bitches!! yo son, i have some shit news.. that rim.. only took a quick peek at it when it showed up. this is public verification to be used as such on received merchandise shipped directly to me, so i want that "on record"..
this is the front rim you ordered with "a scratch" on it.
that aint no gah-damn scratch, homey. that rim is cracked through the bead wall 100% laterally and 100% radially to the base of the radius. NOT safe for street let alone track function. i personally would not pass that as a track tech.
on to better news..
rods as found and assembled-
specs as indicated by yamaha are are .0013-.0023. my readings are a consistent .00155"
mag rotor as found
cleaned and inspected prior to reinstallation.
pistons as installed after cleaning.
crank oil gap is described as .0002-.0015. as found and left, they are .0015... a bit towards the upper tolerance, but acceptable.
bore is described as 3.0709-3.0713. as measured and used, they are 3.0712 with a max radial deviance of .00003.
shop boxarr says fuq your ring gaps, killa. and i agreed. this motor has about 3000 miles on it as i'm told, so being theres till a light crosshatch on the bores, i did not inspect ring gaps or piston-to-wall clearance as i don't see it as necessary.
new rod bolts as indicated by factory law. pretorque is 14 ft-lbs and final is 145-155°. i hit 150 as a nice middle ground.
also for noob/aspiring builders.. a VERY fuggin important facet some people neglect to tell you- do NOT touch rod bolts with bare hands. similar to a halogen bulb killing itself because of the oils on your skin creating hot spots on the glass, oils that don't belong on rod bolts will slowly deteriorate the surface structure of the metal on a molecular level. it is not instant, nor is it a penetration of .020"/month or anything extreme, but its still good practice. also good practice is using a paint marker to denote which torque process has been applied to the fasteners. i usually just go red/yellow/green for my pretorque and finals. if you look closely at some of these you'll see paint marks on the bolts. that is not detrimental to them.. but the shit your raggedy ass nasty fingers leave behind is.. so keep them in your nose or bum or gloves or use the plastic the bolts came in.. but don't go molestering perfectly sexy virgin bolts with your dick-beaters. <3
onward.
any TTA shit you do, i highly suggest jerking your snap-on guy off for one of these little guys. if you tell me you torque to angle without one, i will probably laugh at you and wait for your build to blow up. and these bitches are only like..
$30 or something like that. HIGHLY worth it if you plan on doing multiple TTA fasteners ( all the large case bolts are, for example. borrow one if ya have to. you have a 10° tolerance on most bolts. why chance ruining one? if you know anything about plastic and elastic regions and axial strain, you will use one of these
factory turbo and bomba de aceite installed
top end mapping..
aaand *drum roll*
purtyness.
yes the cam tensioner and some other stuff are devoid.. those await the final repair to the head where it took a hit. i shall address that this week and get on the big step soon afterwards.
some sick nasty brakes have been ordered. i have some safety wire drilling to do as well. lots of little things before the next big item on the list, but its coming along well.
thats all for now, lovers. stay tuned!