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FlashTune ECU Flashing Interface

2M views 13K replies 451 participants last post by  Tad158 
#1 ·
I got the type 1 ECU flashing interface from Flashtune today.

Here are the tuneable features for the 07-08 R1:
-Fuel table bias (ECU uses a MAP vs RPM and a TPS vs RPM table for fueling, the bias adjusts how much each table contributes to the final value used to control the injectors.)
-TPS vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-MAP vs RPM Fuel map (per cylinder)
-TPS vs RPM Ignition map (per gear)
-Engine braking
-YCCT APS vs RPM throttle maps (not directly edittable, can choose between two preset maps: stock and "race")
-Fan temps (stock or 205*F on, 195*F off)
-Immobilizer Operation (Normal or Bypassed)
-Yes, you can import .djm PCIII maps into the software, the software then scales the fuel maps for flashing the ECU just like the PCIII does.

Flashtune does claim to be actively expanding the software to allow for other adjustments as well.

I flashed my ECU with the "race" YCCT map and used the 6th gear ignition map for all gears. My bike does now idle around 1900 RPMs. After looking at the "race" YCCT map closer I believe it may be to blame. Aside from the high idle everything worked great. I went out for a quick ride and was able to power up 2nd gear sit-down wheelies, I tried hard before but it never happened. The bike does feel like it has a little extra pep.

Here are a couple of screenshots of the YCCT maps and the 1st and 6th gear ignition maps.
 

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#11,881 ·
Bummer...he is running a kit ECU, rather than a F-T....:(...so we still need someone to log data and try some of my tricks on the 15....
 
#11,883 ·
Throttle and timing changes. The timing changes will make a difference in fueling, so we need someone to log AFR, RPM and TPS.
 
#11,890 ·
I dont know the part numbers off the top of my head....but...head this warning: ONLY use an 09-11 (EU or US depending on model) image in an 09-11 ECU. Only use a 12-14 (EU or US depending on model) image in a 12-14 ECU.

The individual maps inside the image are interchangeable, so if you want some tune from one to the other, you can copy the maps, but do NOT flash an 09 image into a 12 ECU or a 12 image into an 09 ECU.

I think this is the question you were asking?
 
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#11,891 ·
If you grab one of my images off the map share, you can see what I am using. I am indifferent on them after the season at the track. I need to try the default setting again. There are a few spots that are not quite as smooth as I would like....I think the ones I am using now were tweaked by NoxImus.
 
#11,893 ·
I had no real complaints. About the only thing I would change is set the min RPM to 2000 RPM so I could use it on the street easily.
 
#11,895 · (Edited)
hi,
So I´ve decided to use rapidbike on my 2015r1 mainly because of the continous autotune feature. According to the specs it modulates the signal from the oem O2 sensors and corrects a/f. What is RAPIDBIKE? / YOUTUNE | Rapid Bike adaptive fuel injection tuning for all sport bikes.

I currently run an FTECU graves flash that disables stock O2 sensors in the ECU. According to the help thread of FTECU this means that oem o2 sensors only work a light loads and low rpm and disabling O2 sensors on a flash just means disabling that.

My real question is.. in the knowledgeable opinion of anybody in the forum.. will rapidbike work with the O2 sensor disabled inthe flash(graves flash)? or will I have to reflash my ecu to the "unrestricted map" with enabled O2 sensors for my rapidbike to work?
 
#11,897 ·
Disabling the O2 sensors, get around the issue that "RapidBike" claims that their unit is needed for. When the OEM O2 sensor is disabled, the ECU simply ignores their signals.

Example, with the OEM O2 sensor disabled with FT, I am able to tune the closed loop region with NO ISSUE WHAT SO EVER:fact....

The other thing that I would point out here.....The OEM O2 sensors are narrow band O2 sensors, not a true Lambda sensor. So they output a certain signal when the AFR is above 14.1 and a different signal between 14.1 and 13.9, and then a third signal below 13.9. This is not how a wide band works, where a signal is output that is proportional to AFR between 8 and 22 AFR. That kind of linear signal can be used to fine tune a fuel map to any arbitrary set point. The narrow band can only be used to tune to the per-determined range of 14.0, AKA not at all optimal for making power.

Not quite sure how "RapidBike" claims to use a narrow band O2 sensor like a wide band.....Unless my understanding is incorrect, and the 15 comes with two wide-band O2 sensors.....if that is the case then I take the skepticism back....

So back to your question....Since the ECU is ignoring the signals anyways, it should make no difference. The piggy back system will just be trying to trick the ECU with a signal that it is ignoring anyway....In principal a PCV with AT or Bazzaz with AT will serve the exact same function in your case.....and be able to accomplish the same full full map tuning....

"RapidBike's" claim is that you can tune the whole fuel map without the need of a flash to disable the OEM O2 closed loop region.....but you have already done that....so what is the big deal....:dunno...seems like just another PCV/Bazzaz.....Or you could just properly dyno tune or data log the bike and use F-T to make the changes to the fuel map directly as I do.....:dunno

Has anyone here tried modifying the first row (800 RPM row) in the RPM vs MAP table to rectify cold starting issues?

I've been in contact with the guys from Flashtune a bit inquiring about this and they said that they've had some luck with fixing cold start issues on Race-setup R6's by modifying just that first row.

My '12 R1 absolutely is an absolute bear to start when temps are below 50 degrees F. I used to ride my last bike down to as low as 12 degrees F... doesn't look like this nice shiny new R1 is going to be seeing much of that with the way it fights me in the cold. It will crank and catch for a single revolution and then shut off without ever actually idling. It does this repeatedly for like 7 or 8 times when it's about 50 degrees out until it warms up enough to actually start. If it's 40 degrees out or cooler, it basically won't start at all without killing the battery. My only performance mods are Akropovic Slip-Ons.

I don't actually have a Flashtune device yet, but I'll definitely get one if it resolves this issue.

Anybody?
Let me first ask four questions from you?.....1) How many miles on the bike? 2)How many mikes on your current set of spark plugs in the bike? 3)Is the CCT making any noise at start up? 4)Do you have a Li battery in the bike? I ask them because 1&2)the 09-14 service life of the spark plug is only 8,000mi.....and they were quite warn in my bike after 6500mi. 3) if the CCT is jacked up and not holding the proper slack on the timing chain, this can mess with the duration, and cause a hard starting condition. 4) Li batteries do not have CCA, when they are cold inside, so you need to warm them up by drawing current from them before they respond with full CA. A sign of this is your dash during off when cranked and it doesn't start, then after a while the dash doesn't reset and it fires up. Or it could be as simple as a dead battery with not enough CCA.

I pulled my spark plugs with ~6,500mi, and re-gapped them and found that the bike started much better after that. Your fix could be as easy as good old tune up 101......:fact

That said, I have not fiddled with MAP, vs RPM map to help starting because my bike starts fine....

On a side note, if you do get F-T, get your self an M4 Y-pipe, and open the bike up:fact
 
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#11,896 ·
Has anyone here tried modifying the first row (800 RPM row) in the RPM vs MAP table to rectify cold starting issues?

I've been in contact with the guys from Flashtune a bit inquiring about this and they said that they've had some luck with fixing cold start issues on Race-setup R6's by modifying just that first row.

My '12 R1 absolutely is an absolute bear to start when temps are below 50 degrees F. I used to ride my last bike down to as low as 12 degrees F... doesn't look like this nice shiny new R1 is going to be seeing much of that with the way it fights me in the cold. It will crank and catch for a single revolution and then shut off without ever actually idling. It does this repeatedly for like 7 or 8 times when it's about 50 degrees out until it warms up enough to actually start. If it's 40 degrees out or cooler, it basically won't start at all without killing the battery. My only performance mods are Akropovic Slip-Ons.

I don't actually have a Flashtune device yet, but I'll definitely get one if it resolves this issue.

Anybody?
 
#11,899 ·
My image will probably work better in your bike than the F-T image will....once you put a y-pipe in it:fact....My image is published in the map share....

What about the questions about the battery?.....

Oh and premium fuel?
 
#11,900 · (Edited)
I always run 93 Octane fuel. I think my battery was probably a bit weak since it's original from '12. I killed my battery trying to start it after work the other night when it was 53 degrees out, but this was after trying to start it like 10 to 12 times and it not firing up before the battery couldn't crank it over anymore. Bike just would not start that night and I ended up having to call my brother (who lives with me) at 12:30 AM and have him grab my CTek-Multi battery charger and drive it over to me at work so I could top my battery back up from a wall-plug for like 90 minutes and then start it and ride home. I ordered a new Motobatt AGM battery Tuesday morning and am currently not riding the bike until that arrives, which should be next Monday or Tuesday. I'm going to play it by ear and see how it goes with that new battery in it first. I can't really go Lithium-anything for my battery needs since it gets real cold here in winter and I usually ride until temps get way down in sub-freezing range. It's possible that my weaker battery contributed a bit to the problems since there is probably a second or two of lag after the bike first starts where there is hardly any current being produced by the stator/magnets and the bike is using battery power exclusively to generate the ignition and fuel pump power, which also probably happens to coincide with the headlights, dash and running lights also coming back on.

Which image is yours? I have the flashtune software installed on my home computer even though I don't actually own a Flashtune device yet. I've just been investigating the tuning options currently available in the software as well as looking at some of the details in a few other tunes that I've seen out there (diffing them against stock, etc).

I wish there was a way to use the high-idle table map without actually enabling the high idle itself. I would love to be able to adjust the coolant-temperature based map tables without having to deal with the negative side effect (in my opinion) of always having a high idle.
 
#11,901 ·
Just a weak battery for sure.....

My Li battery in 40 deg weather....


It works fine when it is really cold, you just have to crank it for a few seconds. Then key off, let it recover for 10 sec....then repeat until the Li battery is internally up to temp......Or just store the battery inside and use quick disconnects to connect it.....few screws and you will have a bike that fires right up and still drops ~8 pounds.....
 
#11,903 ·
You are confusing two things.....Rapid bike is just a piggy back fuel management system (like PCV or Bazzaz). They ALL intercept the signals going to the fuel injectors, and modify them to add or subtract fuel. The only bonus that rapid bike seems to offer is using the OEM O2 sensors to tune the bike rather than using a real wide band to do that (I am skeptical that this is actually possible with narrow-band O2 sensors, unless the OEM O2 sensors on the 15 are really wide band sensors). In either case that is TOTALY separate from what the ECU is doing. The ECU reads the OEM O2 to determine if in the closed loop region it needs to add or subtract fuel....in your case with the graves image it does nothing in the closed loop region and only uses the MAP vs RPM and TPS vs RPM to determine the fueling at all times.....
 
#11,904 ·
So in a sense.. the RB unit is sort of enabling again the tuning at close loop region even if the ecu flashed image has the O2 sensors disabled(this time it´s not the ecu doing it but the RB unit) and at the same time it´s supposedly using oem o2 sensors to adjust fuel everywhere else too.
So that´s why it doesn´t matter if the flashed image has the O2 sensors enabled or disabled. It´s the RB unit taking over.

Good. Now I´m a bit skeptical too about the RB unit using the oem o2 sensors. Believe they are narrow band and Rapidbike actually sells you a separate module that comes with a wideband sensor(they market it as something needed for bikes that do not come with oem o2 sensors and a "nice" to have for those that come with OEM o2 sensors).
 
#11,905 ·
Yep, i just don't know how they can tune for any AFR other than the predefined AFR that the narrow band sensor is manufactured for......it would be an interesting question to ask them....
 
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#11,907 ·
:thumbup...there are still a few spots that need work...but it is pretty good....

Mid RPM 1->2 is one spot I can think of....
 
#11,911 ·
Yes please...:thumbup....I would guess that 1->2 in the mid RPM band needs a longer delay, as I have hit false neutral a few times....but it may have been my fault for not following through strongly enough....and 2->3 around 10k RPM part throttle, seems a bit too abrupt (only a little) but I was leaned over in turn two at Summit Main when I was using that and caring about how smooth it is there....I am being a little nit-picky here....but still, I could feel the bike unsettle just a tick....

I wonder if there is a way that we can (semi-)analytically come up with kill time numbers, rather than a guess and check.....

Sorry guys, I'm in NYC for business, but I'll be home this weekend. I will post a screen shot Saturday for sure.

Yeah I'm not sure if we can come up with an mathematical method to figure it out. I'm assuming every gear box is different, dependent on how the dog gears move and react. But it would be nice to eliminate the test/fail portion of it :lol
 
#11,910 · (Edited)
Yes please...:thumbup....I would guess that 1->2 in the mid RPM band needs a longer delay, as I have hit false neutral a few times....but it may have been my fault for not following through strongly enough....and 2->3 around 10k RPM part throttle, seems a bit too abrupt (only a little) but I was leaned over in turn two at Summit Main when I was using that and caring about how smooth it is there....I am being a little nit-picky here....but still, I could feel the bike unsettle just a tick....

I wonder if there is a way that we can (semi-)analytically come up with kill time numbers, rather than a guess and check.....
 
#11,913 ·
About to take the plunge. Just picked up a bench side harness and ready to get into flashing. Bike is 2014 Rapid Red with 3/4 Graves link exhaust, smog plates, air box mod, and a handful of other small things. Looking forward to learning how to use the Flashtune software. I have read the entire thread and looks like you guys have been doing some great work. I will be starting with Tad's map and working from there. Any pointers or heads up would be great.
 
#11,914 · (Edited)
:thumbup When you use my image, you will need to check/set the speedo offset settings, fan temps if you want to change those too, and enable/disable the OEM O2 if you have it installed or not. Everything else, should be about right for your set up. Let me know what you think. Make sure the one you grab is the one off the map share, as it is the newest version.
 
#11,915 ·
Tad,
Is there a breakdown as to the performance characteristics and differences between the different modes in your map? Sorry if this is posted somewhere but didn't see it. On the first run (quick ride) the bike feels like a new bike. Rides clean and hard. Constantly pulls. Found myself in a few accidental wheelies.
 
#11,916 ·
The only difference between the modes are the throttle maps, so it's like having a quick turn throttle.
 
#11,918 ·
FTECU single ECU flash purchase? Not available anymore??

Is FTECU no longer offering single ECU flash purchases for people who already have the cables? Or am I just a dummy and missing it on their site...?? I just purchased an additional ECU flash/registration a month and a half ago for a friend and did his flash($100.00) but now have another friends bike who wants to do it and need to purchase another additional. Please inform...

Thanks,
-John
 
#11,919 ·
When you go to flash the new unregistered ECU, the software should prompt you to purchase the new license. The individual licenses have never been listed on the F-T webpage, though you can buy a three pack at a discount.......:dunno.....does this not work for you?
 
#11,920 ·
Thanks Tad for the response! Hmm, I may have forgotten that it was this way when buying just a single/additional license. I'll be trying it in this afternoon and i'll post back the result. Thanks again!

-John
 
#11,922 · (Edited)
Doesn't graves flash kit allows you to do as many flashes as you want on any ecu compared to flash tune. Also what happens if you flash your mates ecu then they buy there own kit to change stuff will it work?

Also what happens when i disable the o2 sensor in the flash does it still use the cruising maps without the o2 sensor?

Is this possible to just adjust the following and leave the rest

Remove ECU Restrictions
Fuel Injector Proportioning
Ignition Timing
A mode start
Cooling Fan Temps
Remove Top Speed Limiter
 
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