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02-03 R1 Mechanical Help Mechnical and Critical Issues for the 02-03 R1

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Old 12-23-2006, 09:16 AM   #1
02R1jas
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Battery/stator/rectifier/regulator issue

Hi guys.

O.k. this seems like a common problem. I'm ok at mechanical probs and work but electrics is a nightmare for me.

Thought I had a dud battery as it wasn't holding a charge, so I bought a new one. Again the same problem was occurring.

Here is what I have tested on my bike

1. Battery charges correctly to just over 12v
2. Start bike and put lights on and the battery voltage drops to 11.3ish
3. Disconnect the output from rectifier to battery and take a voltage reading directly from the pins of the rectifier and it reads 2.8-3v, so the rectifier is only putting out this charge to the battery.
4. Reconnect the output plug and disconnect the input plug to the rectifier from the stator and take a voltage reading from the pins of the plug. No reading on the tester whatsoever on any pin combination.
5. Restart bike, not enough charge to crank the bike

Can anyone help with the prob because electrics isn't my strong point?

Thanks
Jason
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Old 12-23-2006, 12:51 PM   #2
02R1jas
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should I be testing anything else, do you think its my stator or regulator?
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Old 12-23-2006, 05:31 PM   #3
1longR1
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check battery untouched for about 4 hours. it shold be like 12.4-12.6volts. start bike.. let it warm up. rev bike to 4-5000 rpm and check voltage.. it should read like 14.3-14.7 volts. if not check you plug that goes to rectifier.. its known problem. its prolly that plug or wire burnt. there is sticky thread here about how to check it all.
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Old 01-09-2007, 06:33 PM   #4
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I'm having this exact problem at the moment. I'm gonna try checking the R/R on thursday hopefully if its not ridiculously cold out. I was highly upset when we had a break in the weather the last few days and no riding
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:32 PM   #5
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I have the same problem with mine... I am trying to find the stator because it says to test the three white wires but I don't know where it is. The R/R is by the seat and the gas tank
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:22 PM   #6
02R1jas
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The three wires are on the connector from the stator to the rectifier

Jas
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Old 01-12-2007, 04:27 PM   #7
William YZF-R1
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Originally Posted by blueyzfr6 View Post
I have the same problem with mine... I am trying to find the stator because it says to test the three white wires but I don't know where it is. The R/R is by the seat and the gas tank

I am sure someone witha newer bike would give better help, but anyway on my '98 there is a plug with three white wires coming from stator located on the inside of the LHS main frame spar, under the tank (requires tank removal) which plugs into the main loom.

The actual stator is situated in the engine on the LHS

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Old 07-08-2008, 10:28 AM   #8
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i have a 04' r1 and im getting 14 volts at idle, 14.5 volts at 5000rpm. Should i be getting that many volts at idle. I've had some to tell that i should be gettting around 12.5 ish at idle. If thats too high at idles, any ideas
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:48 PM   #9
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Please Help Me!!!!

Bike:

2002 Yamaha R1
Mirage Slip on exhaust (real shorty pipe)

Story:
I woke up one morning, jumped on the bike, rode across town to a blockbuster, shut off the bike, returned the movie, jumped back on the bike and it wouldn?t start. It seemed like a dead battery, so I pushed started it and rode to the closest dealership. I had to get to class so i took a gamble and said just give me a new battery charged up. I was able to ride around for the day on this battery until my friends and I decided to go out for a ride and it died again after pulling out of the parking lot. Well now my mind was set on the stator. Every part of my knowledge (which wasn't much) told me it was the stator. I read the Haynes Service & Repair Manual on how to replace the stator, (obviously skipping the idea to test it with a meter and see if it was that), I watched the video on youtube by heybebe on how loud the pop was when you take off the flywheel, oh and the three arm puller was what did the trick. In the mean time I put the battery on a trickle charge to get it back up and charged. The bike sat for about 3 weeks not running because the parts took so long to get here, but when they did I got it in and running in 2 afternoons. The next day I take it out for a ride and in about the same amount of time of riding around when the new battery died, it died again. This time I got to the bank, went in, came out, tried to start it and it wouldn't start. Something different this time from last time is that the check engine light came on and underneath where the speed would show was the number 12 (Code 12- Crankshaft Position Sensor?). So here I am, I am going to give myself the weekend to try to figure it out and if I can?t without spending too much money then come Monday I am spending the money to have a mechanic look at it. I enjoy working on bikes but I am terrible at diagnosing them.

Please give me your ideas. I have read many threads and each one seems a little different to my situation.

I look forward to your responses
-Nate
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02R1jas View Post
Hi guys.

O.k. this seems like a common problem. I'm ok at mechanical probs and work but electrics is a nightmare for me.

Thought I had a dud battery as it wasn't holding a charge, so I bought a new one. Again the same problem was occurring.

Here is what I have tested on my bike

1. Battery charges correctly to just over 12v
2. Start bike and put lights on and the battery voltage drops to 11.3ish
3. Disconnect the output from rectifier to battery and take a voltage reading directly from the pins of the rectifier and it reads 2.8-3v, so the rectifier is only putting out this charge to the battery.
4. Reconnect the output plug and disconnect the input plug to the rectifier from the stator and take a voltage reading from the pins of the plug. No reading on the tester whatsoever on any pin combination.
5. Restart bike, not enough charge to crank the bike

Can anyone help with the prob because electrics isn't my strong point?

Thanks
Jason
holy crap same thing here, check the resistance on your stator if it reads0.00 then its toast, it should read 0.19
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:44 PM   #11
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Could someone post the diagnosis proceedures on how to check for this common "no charging" issue on the 02-03 R1 (with/without eng lite, with/without dash-code, volts/ohms when connecting mulitmeter to different wires & terminals, etc)?
For instance, check ohms for black-2 & w/ white-1 terminal, if ** ohms, then replace x...this sort of stuff. There are too many posts to try and put it all together. We all appreciate these resources and it would be great if we could stay organized.
Thank you!
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:53 PM   #12
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:53 AM   #13
FMBARBERA676
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Funny, but I'm being sincere. I LOVE my bike. I don't like playing this card, but I waited 9 months to come back from Kabul after my third & final tour. My awesome, clean, shinny, insanely fast stock R1 was in my thoughts every day when abroad. When I came back, I literally pushed my bike into my living room, next to my TV, after I'd get done riding for the day so I could watch the two non-human things I love & missed the most together. I completely missed being able to ride last summer and most of 2008. My bike makes me feel glorious, especially now, and I'm very territorial with it. I'm a Hum-V mechanic and electrical problems were somewhat common due to the extreme heat (shorted cuircuts & wires, melted/leaked batteries, etc). We had diagnosis books that when stacked were 15 inches high. Despite all the literature, there were 6 pages that would walk you through the steps of checking certain connections for continuity, resistance, and volts. Depending on the findings it would then tell you exactly what needed to be replaced/adjusted along with the manual and page #'s to start the project. I guess I'm looking for something similar. Yes, if I really wanted it done I would have brought it to a shop to have it fixed. My fears with that are being taken advantage of monetarily, waiting for the slackers to get to my bike (I once waited a week for them to perform the 1500 mile check-up when I first bought it), and telling me I need more parts that what is necessary. I'm also afraid of the cost because, like most right now, the economy has effected me. In short, can someone provide the pages from a 02-03 R1 repair manual showing the proper steps on checking the whole electrical system? It would greatly be appreciated.
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:06 AM   #14
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Is this what you need?
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:12 PM   #15
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Whoah battle buddy. Thank you! I'll give it a shot tonight
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:18 PM   #16
roughrider8
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Originally Posted by YzRacer212 View Post
Is this what you need?
I have a charging problem too I think, going back to last year, I had a new battery that died after the bike wasnt ridden. I bought a new battery at the beginning of this summer but didn't get to ride, I charged it today and its sitting at 12.86v cold and goes up to 14.26 when I hold it at 5000rpm.


I have a multi-meter and tried to test. Please tell me if I am doing this right. Tested with the bike off and also with the bike idling same result. I unplugged the rectifier and tested the plug with wires (not the rectifier itself), I set the settings to what I hope are ohms (upside down horseshoe?), set it at 20k, tested the pins and they read .1 on all three 1+2, 1+3, and 2+3, this means the stator is bad right??


Thanks in advance!

Last edited by roughrider8; 09-20-2011 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:11 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by roughrider8 View Post
I have a charging problem too I think, going back to last year, I had a new battery that died after the bike wasnt ridden. I bought a new battery at the beginning of this summer but didn't get to ride, I charged it today and its sitting at 12.86v cold and goes up to 14.26 when I hold it at 5000rpm.


I have a multi-meter and tried to test. Please tell me if I am doing this right. Tested with the bike off and also with the bike idling same result. I unplugged the rectifier and tested the plug with wires (not the rectifier itself), I set the settings to what I hope are ohms (upside down horseshoe?), set it at 20k, tested the pins and they read .1 on all three 1+2, 1+3, and 2+3, this means the stator is bad right??


Thanks in advance!
12.8 cold and 14.3 at 5K I'd say your charging system is working. Not really sure what you mean by "Tested with the bike off and also with the bike idling same result."??? When you test your stator, you want to set the dial lower than 20K. It should have a regular Ohms setting. Also check each wire to ground to make sure you're not shorting to the frame. Here's a good link to troubleshoot your charging system:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31255

Mark
99 R1

ps Upside down horseshoe is your Ohms setting.

Last edited by Sharksawyer; 09-20-2011 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Sharksawyer View Post
12.8 cold and 14.3 at 5K I'd say your charging system is working. Not really sure what you mean by "Tested with the bike off and also with the bike idling same result."??? When you test your stator, you want to set the dial lower than 20K. It should have a regular Ohms setting. Also check each wire to ground to make sure you're not shorting to the frame. Here's a good link to troubleshoot your charging system:

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31255

Mark
99 R1

ps Upside down horseshoe is your Ohms setting.
All I meant was I tested it with the bike on and off, since I didnt know if it mattered.

The multi-meter dial has Ohms at 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000, 200. I tested it with 20k? 2000 gave me a number like 4 or 3, and 200 would start at 2.0 and slowly count down 1.9, 1.8 etc all the way down to 1. so I figured I was doing it wrong. Looks like the stator was the culprit.

Ok so heres what happened, as I said the battery was new but unused since it was first charged in the spring. I rode it today after putting a new tire on it and getting my insurance set up. Came home and let it sit for a couple hours, when I tried to start it it had just below enough juice to start, the engine would turn over and the lights are on but just wouldnt turn fast enough to fire. So I test it again. this time I get 12.58 and it goes down to 12.40 after I try a second time to start it. I charge for about 10 mins and it has enough juice to fire, I run it to 5k rpm and it shows 13.80. I put it back on the charger for an hour and the battery shows 14.02

So basically my numbers from the other day were off and it appears its charging but not enough to keep the battery topped off. Im going to order the stator and hope thats it unless someone disagrees. I know this is all kind of long but I found this thread searching google so maybe it will help someone else. I have to get the 3 arm puller to get to the stator right?

Does anyone make a solid after market stator that wont burn up for a decent price or should I use a stock version?


Thanks for the help and the link

Last edited by roughrider8; 09-22-2011 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:02 PM   #19
roughrider8
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oh one other thing, bike has 11k miles, Time for new spark plugs is what I am told. Whats decent? Are these NGK iridium tipped ok? http://store.58cycle.com/product_p/N...R1%2002-03.htm

Im not racing this bike or anything, I have kids now lol. Just want a stock like plug. And what is the gap on an 02 if anyone has it offhand

thanks!
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #20
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The way your readings slowly drops doesn't sound right. You sure your meter battery is good? Once you touch the two leads to your stator wires, the reading should stabilize within a couple of seconds. I would suggest riding it to the Yamaha dealer and have them do a quick stator check before just changing it.

Mark
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