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Old 03-29-2008, 04:32 AM   #1
blue devil
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HOW TO: Homemade Race Baffles

Today I decided the exhaust was too quiet and needed to fix the problem. Solution? Custom race baffles. Half straight pipe and half baffled. I got tired of seeing a ton of thread with pics scattered all over the place and everyone asking for videos so here you go. A walk through, pictures, and before and after video. Heres a little walk through of what i did. Companies sell the race baffles for $90 for a kit, well i made my own for under $20. I designed mine to flow freely and to be decently loud... so here we go!

Remove the upper tail fairing


Unclamp the exhaust at the Y-pipe


Take off the plastic covers and take out the screws supporting the upper portion of the exhaust


Take the exhaust off.


Take a 3/16 drill bit and drill out the 6 rivets on each can. Once there drilled out slide off the tips


Now take a center punch and punch in the center of each of the 4 spot welds on each can. Then drill a pilot hole and work up to a hole that is large enough to drill out the entire spot weld. The spot welds hold in the factory baffles. Once drilled pull the baffles out


The stock baffles are so restrictive


It got a little beat up pulling it out


Next i cut out 2 7in by 16in squares of 20 gauge perforated metal. The baffles need to be 2in in diameter. Well circumference equals 2*pi*r or d*pi... 2*3.14 = 6.28 and about 3/4 of an inch left over for overlap.


Next i rolled the steel around a 2in pipe. Its pretty hard but persuasion with a rubber mallet works well.


To keep its form i used galvanized safety wire.


This is completely optional. I like loud exhausts so i did it. The more area of perfoated steel left open the quieter the bike will be. The more area covered the louder it will be. I covered roughly 8in with aluminum tape found at any ACE or Home Depot in the heating and cooling area.


Next i cut the end of the pipe to match the angle of the stock exhaust covers


This now is a goof oportunity to use a high temp paint on your cans if you want them black. Wash them off well and paint!


Next your going to need 2 packs of 4 stroke muffler packing found at Cycle Gear. I cut two 1 in strips and two 2 in strips and used the rest as the wrapping. Because the exhaust is an oval shape i put the 1 in strips on the sides. I then rolled the large piece over them to get the oval shape. Then i took the 2in strips and put them on the sides. I then took safetly wire and wraped it all together so it wouldn't fall apart when putting them into the stock cans.


Next slide your new baffles into the stock cans. Make sure they line up with the inlet of the can and the tip lines up with the outlet. Now slip the stock end cap back on. Now use 3/16 aluminum rivets to put it back together. Once together mount it mack on the bike


Repeat with the second can and you will be done. This is a pretty lengthly process and there are many ways to make your own baffles, so do what you want. Just know that the baffle must me 2in in diameter.


Now what do you think will flow better?
Something restrictive like this:


Or something free flowing like this:


Heres some before and after video..

Before with gutted cats..


After with race baffles and gutted cats..


Again this is a cost effective mod that allows you to save hundreds of dollars on after market exhausts for 04+ R1's. The is exactly the same design that two brothers, Yosh, and the companies use. Its just a free flowing exhaust!
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:50 AM   #2
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Wow!!! Great right up man! That sounds killer!
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Old 03-29-2008, 11:49 AM   #3
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i would have revved it more but my HOA hates me already and it was kinda late. Ill try to get more video later.
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:04 PM   #4
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i would say this may be worthy of a sticky
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:17 PM   #5
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ill take more pics today as were doing my buddies 06
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Old 03-29-2008, 05:19 PM   #6
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When you said it was 20 dollars. Does that mean thats all it cost for all the material used? So you had to order in the packing? or did you already have some of the material and didn't count the cost for that? Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:10 PM   #7
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Nice work , is that aluminum or steel perf. material?
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:41 PM   #8
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Nice work, but for goodness sake, clean up your tail before putting the cans back on.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:08 AM   #9
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LDHR1- Its steel perforated

Wheat- Yea dude i know. Im a perfectionist, but i bought the bike lowsided and it needs a new undertail so im just going to find a used one for sale. The small mounting tabs on the side are broken.

Leland- There is a local motorcycle shop called cycle gear that sells 4 stroke muffler packing. I just used a 20% off coupon on 2 FMF packs for like $12. I got the steel perforated from a local metal supplier, but i opted to get a large piece because i knew i was going to do my friends bikes. The smaller piece that they sold was more then enough for one bike and it was $8, but the larger one i got was $16. As for the tape you can get if for $3 and the rivets for like $3 also... so its more of a $20-$30 job depending on where you get the parts. Beats spending $90 on a kit for me as im a college student on a tight budget... i guess being an engineering major makes me creative.
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:17 AM   #10
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what about these?

is one fmf packing enough to do one muffler? do you remember the dimension of one packing?i m thinking of goint this route to save me some money.

also for muffler packing, do you guys think this is gonna be good enough even if its a no name brand?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-x-...spagenameZWDVW

or maybe two of these?
http://www.pitposse.com/fmf4mupa.html
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:15 PM   #11
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sounds good, real tempted tyo do this, just gotta wait for some time off

nice write up
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klacfyde View Post
is one fmf packing enough to do one muffler? do you remember the dimension of one packing?i m thinking of goint this route to save me some money.

also for muffler packing, do you guys think this is gonna be good enough even if its a no name brand?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-x-...spagenameZWDVW

or maybe two of these?
http://www.pitposse.com/fmf4mupa.html

The Ebay packing is the same as FMF packing, I have bought the same stuff for two of my previous pipes.
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:01 PM   #13
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I used two packs and had a little left over... i dont think one pack will do, you need two.

If i had to option for a no name packing i would have gotten it. All FMF packing is some no name brand repackaged under the FMF name. I just used what i had access to... that and i get employee discount at Cycle Gear. All 4 stroke packing is pretty much the same.
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue devil View Post
I used two packs and had a little left over... i dont think one pack will do, you need two.

If i had to option for a no name packing i would have gotten it. All FMF packing is some no name brand repackaged under the FMF name. I just used what i had access to... that and i get employee discount at Cycle Gear. All 4 stroke packing is pretty much the same.
i cant find perforated metal or perforated tubes around here in gainesville, florida.

i asked one shop and they want $25 a piece and i need to. damn nazis...

i bought the packing already and its on its way.
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:01 AM   #15
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didnt see that perforated sheets at lowes, but forgot to check the millworks department.

gonna check out and try out privacy screening, should do the trick also
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Old 04-05-2008, 06:12 AM   #16
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For the perforated metal you can also use a trash can from walmart. It's just another option. Cut the base and upper lip off and you have a sheet of perf metal. I seen it used on other bikes (cbr600rr) in the same way.

Last edited by Angrywasp; 04-05-2008 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 04-05-2008, 06:43 AM   #17
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Nice work,,, sounds very good.
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:19 AM   #18
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Nice write-up, definitely deserves to be a sticky.

One question, though: once you got it running hot enough did the adhesive on the aluminum tape burn off, smoke, stink, anything??? I ask because usually that stuff is good for dryer vents, heating ducts, etc...but an exhaust will be substantially hotter. I used some of it to replace one of the aluminum heat shields that's on the underside of the stock heat shields and after 3 days of use it fell off; the adhesive couldn't take it.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:39 PM   #19
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i got my perforated metal at a local metal supply shop. Some hardware stores sell decorative perforated metal that would work too... just looks funny. Worst case, pick up some 2in exhaust tubing and drill the hell out of it. Then you dont have to bother with heat wraping half of it. If you plan to do this i would recommend to use a punch before you drill so the bilt doesnt walk around everythere. Also use a 3/8 bit or bigger so you dont have to drill a million holes.

Theres anways a way around every problem, just gotta think and be creative
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:35 PM   #20
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do you have to retune for this mod or will it be ok without?
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