HOW TO: Check compression, valves, SYNC throttle bodies, and tune up. : Yamaha R1 Forum
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:57 PM   #1
Curby
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HOW TO: Check compression, valves, SYNC throttle bodies, and tune up.

Well here we go, this How To is going to be focusing on 3 main things, checking compression, checking valves clearances, and synchronizing the throttle bodies, I'm also going to add a tune up to the thread, since your going to have most of the bike apart to do these 3 main things.

Also going to be gearing this towards people with very little mechanical ability to ease the project for them, but those that have experience could benefit from this also. Those with 04-06s will benefit more, but this helps out anyone to see what they will be dealing with when time comes to work on there bike, 98-08 years of style.

Also going to create a Table of Contents and break down certain things into Chapters to make the thread more easy to read and navigate throughout.

And for viewing, depending on size of your monitor or how you have your resolution set at, the pictures might look a bit off, but each picture is uploaded in number sequence, so they go from left to right, then next ones underneth go from left to right again. Also to help, when creating the pictures i numbered them off for each chapter, when viewing, scroll mouse over picture, should show what number is it, and explaining in pic also.

So here we go.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:06 PM   #2
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Table of Contents

Here in the table of contents as I add more and more pictures and posts up, I'll update the ToC for what posts/pages each Chapter is at.

TOOLS N TIPS - Page #1, Posts 3-6.

CHAPTER 1 - PREPPING THE BIKE - Page #1, Posts 7-8.

CHAPTER 2 - COMPRESSION TESTING - Page #1, Posts 9-12.

CHAPTER 3 - CHECKING THE VALVES - Page #1, Posts 13-14.

CHAPTER 4 - PARTIAL REASSEMBLY, TUNE UP - Page #1, Posts 15-16.

CHAPTER 5 - SYNCHRONIZING THE THROTTLE BODIES - Page#1, Posts 17-18.

CHAPTER 6 - OIL CHANGING AND FINISHING UP Page #1, Post 19.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:40 PM   #3
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Tools n Tips

In this section of tools n tips, i will add pictures or what tools are needed, tools not needed but will help with the job, tips from other forum members, and tips to help the job working on your bike.

First starting with other threads that other forum members have created:

1. Wheatmans thread for smog block off plates. Smog block off plates help a lot for clearing up tons of clutter on top of the valve head cover, for changing plugs, it just simply gets in the way of a lot of things. The plates can be purchased from Tobefast.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81452

2. This is BSR-1 alternative to smog plates, if your looking to save a few bucks, and want to make your own plates, here's a video he made to help out with that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIqSvXDb8GA

3. Martinc thread is for "the miracle of dielectric grease", since when doing this project, you will have most of the bike apart, why not grease all the connectors to prevent problems or error codes down the road?

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39926

4. FiveOh thread is about doing oil change, but putting the bike into Diag mode, and then cranking over engine, engine should not fire, and then pumping out quite a bit of dirty oil out the filter hole, i tried this for the first time after reading his thread, and was pretty amazed how much dirty oil blew out the filter hole. I will bring this back up near end of thread with pictures explaining how to doit.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145500

5. R1budha has lots of helpful things also, thread for tightening specs, but also has website for the SERVICE MANUALS that you will NEED.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67754 is Tightening Specs.

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=e...43d23145c05c7c is the website for service manuals.

6. If that site is down, you can find the service manuals and couple other helpful things at. http://yzf-r1forum.net/info.html

7. Jhelmuth started this thread on How To make your own manometer
(sync tool) for synchronizing the throttle bodies/carbs. Helps for saving some money, since most meters are around 100$.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233550

Also if any other members want to chime in, or have a thread to help out i'll post up for you.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:52 PM   #4
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Tools n Tips (2)

Tools n tips continued.

Tools and stuff needed:

Pic 1: Air compressor, suggesting having one of these, to blow stuff out of spark plug holes, if you don't have one, can always goto Staples and buy can of computer air, has decent pressure and will get job done.

P2: Compression tester, with right adapter.

P3 & P4: Feeler gauges, buy extra set or 2, cause you will have to cut one with sheers, after cutting, suggest using fine file, so no burrs or cutting ridge are there.

P5: This gasket is for the side rotor cover, that you need to take off to gain access to the crank bolt and timing marker, you might get lucky and pull cover off and gasket stays perfect, or might tear, to be safe order part number is 4C8-15456-00-00.

P6:Black silicone, and dielectric grease, black is used on valve cover gasket when reassembling, and dielectric grease will help on electrical connections making them decently water proof to avoid corroded or burn out a connector like i did.

P7: Socket set, don't need one with this many pieces, but you will be needing 8mm,10mm,14mm,17mm, basic socket sets usually come with them.

P8: Spark plug gapper, gotta check and gap those nice new plugs.

P9: Is the sync tool for the throttle bodies/carbs for older models of bikes, this one is pretty old, but still works, you can pick a newer style like this one for 100$ by motion pro. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...de;%3C-sup%3E/

Or you can refer to Jhelmuths thread as mentioned in Tools n Tip, you make your own meter. Here's the link again. http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233550

P10: Is tool kit from the bike, main tools using from here are spark plug adapter, allen keys, flat/philips screwdriver, and the oil cap remover, looks like big beer bottle cap remover.

P11: Things for tuneup, New air filter ( or wash your performance one), oil filter, 3 litres/quarts of oil (4 if you change it FiveOh style), new spark plugs are NGK CR9EK, and atleast 3 litres of coolant.

P12: Good ole WD40, lots of paper shop towels, and brake cleaner, the stuff cleans any oil off from anywhere.

P13: Wobble headed allens will help a lot, since you can go from different angles with them.

P14: After getting service manuals from online, print out Valve adjust section 3-11 to 3-16, and sections 3-17 to 3-19 for throttle sync.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:30 AM   #5
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Tools n Tips (3)

Tools n tips continued:

Tools NOT needed, but will help:

Pic1: Dental pick set bought for couple dollars, found this useful for many thing, but when you get valve cover head off, will be left over silicone near gasket, helps pick and remove it out.

P2 & P6: Stands help a lot, keeping bike straight up and easy to move around, also when sync'in the throttle bodies they say in manual to put bike on stands, maybe for more accurate results?

P3: A little led miners headlight, helps when working around spots with no light and hard to see parts, or maybe i'm just blind, who knows, and the big led light helps also.

P4: Top is a extension magnet, helps with certain hard to reach bolts, bottom is just my little metal pointer i will be using to point out certain thing or parts to remove.

P5: WTF?? A turkey baster? Yeah it's odd, but get a turkey baster, put some tubing on the end of it, helps for adding right amount off coolant in rad, and also getting to the overflow bottle under the seat.

P7: Little roller stool helps, with maneuvering around bike, and not being crunched over all day, will help save your back.

P8: Rubber gloves help keep ur pretty hands clean, yeah, and will help against getting cuts when around sharp edges in engine, call me a sissy, but getting cut and then getting oil and grime in the cut, then dealing with infections aren't the best.

P9: Torque wrench eh? Well most of the stuff really won't need it, since such low torque settings, but if you plan on doing some more major work, or have to shim the valves, going to need it.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:50 AM   #6
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Tools n Tips (4)

Continued...

Tips to help make life a little easier when working on the bike:

Before going to next step, here's some tips n suggestions.

Pic 1: Place a old beat up blanket under the bike, when taking plastics off, you won't cause any dings or scratches, then when doing dirty work, place a disposable tarp underneath.

P2: When taking parts off, group them together, and place the small nuts, bolts, parts in sandwich baggies, helps from not losing them or spending 1 hour looking for a part.

P3: Good ole pen and paper, use it, write down notes if you feel you will forget, and orders how parts go back together,and what goes where. It helped me on this project a lot.

P4: Make sure you have lots of work area space, or a spot to place all your plastics, would be a kick in the balls to be working on bike and then step on your plastics and break something.

Other tips i suggest, is take your time, your not paying anyone by the hour to work on your bike, and when you start rushing, start forgeting things, or messing up, so just take your time.

If you start getting frustrated, put the tools down, take a breather, and come back when ya simmered down, sometimes feels like they designed the bikes to be impossible to work on, but patience pays off. (ex, to get ram air tubes off, you have to take off so many things, to just get 1 tube off).

Keep work area clean, having parts and tools all over the place leads to more time loss looking for the right tool, or part(s).

Last but not least, have a "tool spot", placing your tools all over the place, or on the bike sometimes makes it harder to find, sometimes even with the tool next to me or a foot away i have hard time finding it cause it blends in with many other tools not being used.

Hope this helps, now time to get started on zee R1.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:20 AM   #7
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Chapter 1: Prepping the bike

In this Chapter, we are "prepping the bike", getting it ready for the major work, and getting all the things out of the way to make it easier to work on.

So here we go.

Step 1; Tank prep

Pic 1: Pretty simple for tools needed in this Chapter, you can take 85% of the cosmetic parts off with just 2 allen wrenches and flat/philips screw driver.

P2: Take the front seat off, 2 allen bolts.

P3: Remove tank side pieces, 1 each side, 1 philips screw each side, after screw is taken out, pull back piece towards seat, slides right off.
TIP, after piece removed, just thread screws back into tank, don't have to worry about losing them.

P4: 3 allen bolts up front, 1 each side, and 1 up front top near steering head, that bolt is silver and longer, 2 sides are same colour and length. That's it for the tank for right now.

Step 2; Lower fairings

Pic 5: Start by removing 4 front 1/4 screws, use magnet to pull them out easy.

P6: Remove threaded screws, 1 each side.

P7: Loosen 4 front 1/4 screws, 2 each side.

P8: Loosen 2 1/4 screws at back, 1 each side. After that there will be 2 1/4 screws up top(sorry, forgot to take picture), loosen those, then lower fairing should be free to pull off.

P9: Parts taken off, lower fairing, and black middle piece.

Step 3; Mid fairings

Pic 10: Remove these 3 pop rivits.

P11: Remove 4 philips pops, 2 each side.
TIP, sometimes when turning, the base turns with it, try putting finger in there, and holding base, so when you turn screw, inner screw part turns, and not the base.

P12: After removal of inner black panel pieces, disconnect turn signals, then uptop there is 10 1/4 screws, 5 each side, remove those, then side plastic mid forward, can be little tricky cause front piece gets caught in sometimes.

Step 4; Fender

Pic 13: Well this one is easy, remove 6 allen head screws, the 2 at back holding brake lines(pointer on it) have nut backings, so when threading out, might have to hold nut so it doesn't just spin when loosening.
Also reason for taking front fender off, gets another thing out of way, going to lower rad, also with fender off why not check fork seals?
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:54 AM   #8
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Chapter 1: Prepping the bike (2)

Continued...

Step 5; Upper plastic pieces

Pic 1-2: Start by removing the 2 pieces under the ram air tube, each piece has 2 philips pops. Left side 1 ontop, 1 underneth(pointed), Right side has 1 ontop, 1 underneth close to rad cap(pointed)

P3: Now remove the 2 mid pieces, each side has 3 allen head bolts holding them in(pointed).

P4: Now remove the top 2 pieces above each ram air tube, they both have 1 fat headed philips screw(pointed), and 1 pop rivit each.

P5: Now to remove ram air tubes, there is 2 pop rivits for each tube, 1 uptop going into top fairing(pointed), also 1 each side back of ram air tube going into frame, holding up heat shield blanket.

P6: Make sure ram air tube on right side has this zip tie loosened so u can get wire harness out from it. Then remove ram air tubes.

P7: Parts taken off in this step.

Step 6; Tail removal

Pic 8: Start with 2 philips pops.

P9: Then 2 pop rivits underside, near pipes, 1 each side, they can be real bitch to get out sometimes.

P10: 1 Allen bolt.

P11: After sliding back top tail section, undo seat cable, then place piece in safe spot.

P12: With top tail section gone, you now have full access to all the electricals, so won't hurt to use dielectrical grease on those, and also let you get to the 4 8mm bolts very easily that hold on the gas tank bracket, to take tank off, and get battery out later on in the process.

P13: Is R1 all prepped and ready to go for next Chapter.
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:38 AM   #9
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Chapter 2: Compression Test

In this Chapter we will be going over compression testing. What is compression testing? Well compression testing can be used to diagnose many different things, bad piston, bad valves, different pressures between all 4 cylinders. Reason why doing compression test first is because it would be a huge waste of time and kick to the balls to do your valves, have to shim them, and then you find out your piston is shot when you compression test or leakdown test, then have to rip whole engine apart again( lets hope doesn't come to that).

So first thing first is start up the bike, let it warm up, to get a bit more accurate results while testing the engine should be warm.

So here we go.

Pic 1: Tools needed : Socket wrench with 17mm socket, socket plug puller included in tool kit, compression gauge, allens wrenches, 10mm and 8mm sockets, side cutters, pliers, flat/philips screw driver, paper towels, and air compressor.

Step 1 Tank Off

Pic 2: Start by propping the tank up with something stable and secure, make sure it's STABLE n SAFE, don't want that fuel tank slamming down on your hands when disconnecting fuel lines and wires.

P3,4,5,6: With tank propped up, place some papertowels under the lines, some fuel will come out, but will only be from whats in the lines, not the fuel tank. Things to disconnect are: Over fuel flow lines have small pinch ring, then fuel line has a pinch clamp, 2 electricals are fuel pump and low fuel warning, if those are bit stubborn, use flat head to pry them off while you use other hand to pinch the clip on it. And last fuel line has plastic clip that pull down and off, then squeeze the sides of it, and pull off, can be bit stuck on there sometimes.

P7: Undo the 4 8mm bolts at back of tank where bracket is, taking off the bracket with tank is easy, and will make it a breeze to pull battery out later on. After bolts taken out, take the tank off, store in safe spot.

P8,9: With tank gone, wad up small piece of papertowel, and place in 2 gas lines to prevent anything getting in there while working on bike, or you can just take some plastic and wrap it around the end and use elastic to hold on there, up to you.

Step 2 Air box removal

Picture 10: Start by unplugging green air sensor(pointed)

P11: Remove 10 philips screws, 1 is in middle, has rubber plug over top of it(pointed)

P12: Remove that dirty air filter.

P13: Use pliers on pinch clamp to pull crankcase breather hose off.
TIP, for those still with AIS system, left side of air box has tube clamp there also, easy to remove after intake taken out and air box lifted.

P14: Use allen wrench to unscrew 6 allen bolts to remove the intakes.
TIP, those with stock intakes, the screws don't have to be pulled out of the intake body completely, because there is plastic clips in the intakes to prevent bolts getting sucked into engine.

P15: Air box and intakes removed.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:25 AM   #10
whatsaR1?
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good write up cant wair for the rest.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:36 AM   #11
Curby
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Chapter 2: Compression Test (2)

Continued...

Step 3 Last of Air box

Pic 1: This is simple n easy, push the AIS plug down, and throttle cable holder tip down, this one u have to kinda pinch it to push it through. Then when taking off use flat head to go threw seal holes(4), but becareful not to push to hard, this is that part i broke and had to wait long time to get from dealership.

Step 4 Rad Lower/Removal

Pic 2: By now after taking off tank, and airbox the rad should have cooled down enough so you can drain the coolant fluid out, if still too hot, wait a lil bit, so you don't get burned by coolant. In this picture is the drain bolt. 10mm.

P3: Make sure to place a jug or pan underneth drain bolt, now use 10mm wrench or socket to loosen and take out, LEFTY LOOSIE, RIGHT TIGHTY for when taking it out. After bolt is removed, you will notice it barely even comes out, goto right side of bike, and loosen rad cap, make sure to put rag over cap so you don't get burned JUST IN CASE there is still heat pressure.

P4: As coolant drains start undoing these plastic zip clamps, also have to cut one holding fan wire with side cutters, and the fuse box and other electrical box at front and be slid off the plastic rad mount.

P5: TIP, when taking these clamps off, or removing expendable zip ties, to help remember where they go, use magic marker, and mark off where the clamps go, so when you start assembling back together, will help pin point locating to re zip tie and re clamp. ALSO REMEMBER to unplug rad fans, 1 each side.

P6: Goto right side of bike, unclamp this plastic one holding the wireharness to rad.

P7: Loosen this zip clamp that holds clutch cable to rad hose.

P8,9,10: Are the rad mount bolts, 10mm left side, allen bolt right side, bottom you can undo the 10mm bolt and nut, or just use a 8mm socket and remove the whole clamp.

P11: Loosen this hose clamp, and push off the over flow tube above it, very small tube at rad cap.

P12,13,14: As you can see with rad lowered, you have TONS of room to work with now. Also by now most of the coolant is drained, maybe the odd drip, go back and RETIGHTEN the 10mm bolt drain plug.

Step 5 Removing coils,side tube, plugs

Picture 15: Start with disconnecting 4 coil wires, and 1 cam shaft sensor plug.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:27 AM   #12
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Chapter 2: Compression Test (3)

Continued...

Step 5 Removing coils, side tube, plugs cont'd

Pic 1: Loosen the clamps circled in picture, going to be taking the rad tube off to create easier access to get valve cover head off.

P2: Make sure to unclamp this pinch clamp on side of tube.

P3: Tube removed, when removing this tube, you might get some rad fluid puking out of it that's in the down part of the tube, reason why some left over because it's connected to thermostat housing, and if thermo is closed, will keep fluid in tube, this is pretty much the dirtiest part of the whole job.

P4: Wad up some paper towel and shove a bit into tube hole.

P5: With main coil wires gone out of the way, start removing each coil plug 1 by 1, they can be little stubborn, so do twisting pulling motion to get them out.

P6,7: Shows spark plugs down in the head, before removing them, take air compressor and blow out each spark plug hole so nothing can drop into combustion chambers.

P8,9: Using your spark plug tool from kit(sorry didn't get picture taking them out), place in hole ontop of spark plug, it has a rubber gripper in side of tool to get plug out, use 17mm socket wrench ontop of spark plug tool, and remove each plug. After each plug is removed, take look at them, and see what colour they are, should be a nice dry brown colour.
TIP. Use marker and number off each plug, so IF you pull out a plug, and its not looking so normal, note down what cylinder it is to diagnose whats going on.

Step 6 Compression testing time

Picture 10: With all the plugs removed, start with cylinder one, use the correct adapter with the compression gauge tool, thread into spark plug hole.

P11: With gauge in cylinder 1, turn on ignition key, bike will do its start up checks, now since you have green air sensor unplugged, code 22 will be shown, no worries, bike will still crank over to do testing.

P12: Now hold throttle WIDE OPEN, hit start button and engine will crank, and no worries, with all plugs n coils removed, and fuel tank removed( to pressurize fuel system) the bike will not fire over or flood engine. Pretty simple eh? So crank engine over till you get your HIGHEST reading and will not climb anymore. After that, right down each result, and continue this for other 3 cylinders.

P13: Now if you notice, when cranking over engine, the top butterfly valves do not move, i guess they must only move when engine is running, but just to make sure i took out cylinder 1 top butterfly to see if i get different result on compression gauge, and well, i didn't, still same number as tests before, but the gauge only went up little faster.
SO DO NOT WORRY, OR TAKE TOP BUTTERFLY VALVES OUT, you will still get same reading at WOT, just takes little longer.

RESULTS ARE: Since my engine cooled down about 3.5 hours(taken pics, writing down, dealing with rad mess, and other things on the go) my results for Cylinder 1 was 195psi. Cylinder 2 was 195psi. Cylinder 3 was 195psi. Cylinder 4 was 5psi down, at 190, but that's because battery was dieing on me.

P14: Stuff some papertowel deep into the heads so nothing falls in when taking cover off.

P15: Cover intakes with something.

P16: Take out battery, and charge it up, since it might almost be dead from cranking over so much during testing. And getting it ready to start up bike when sync'n time comes.
TIP: When disconnecting battery, remove NEGATIVE FIRST! Negative THEN positive so you don't take chance of shorting out battery or causing damage to your motorcycles electrical system.

After all is completed, let the bike sit over night to cool the engine down completely, then can get started on the valves.

Also for those looking to refer to service manual for compression test. The sections are 3-24, 3-25, 3-26. Pics 17, 18, 19.
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Last edited by Curby; 05-04-2008 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:03 PM   #13
Curby
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Chapter 3 - Checking the Valves

In this Chapter, going to be checking valve clearances, this is a very very critical thing to do, to prevent power loss, or worst yet, dropping a valve and blowing up your engine. But checking the clearances is pretty simple and easy, but might be a bit intimidating for someone that never has yet.

NOTE: THIS MUST BE DONE ON A COLD ENGINE FOR ACCURATE RESULTS.

Also the service manual suggests taking off throttlebodies, you don't have to, you can get away with them on, a bit tricky, but easy once you get used how to move the top valve cover around.

So here we go.

Tools n things needed

Pic 1: Are things needed for this chapter. Tools are sets of feeler gauges, 1 must be cut down width-wise so can fit between cam covers. Allen wrenches with wobble heads will pay off for sure working on valve head, socket wrench with 14mm socket to turn crank over, side cutters to cut any left over zipties in the way, and soft faced hammer.

P2: New rotor cover gasket, just incase current one rips apart. Part number is 4C8-15456-00-00.

P3: Print out of valve spec from service manual, Sections 3-11 to 3-16.

Step 1 Getting electricals out of the way

Pic 4: Since battery is out, and don't need to start engine anytime soon, begin with unplugging main front wires going to head of bike, then pull them back.

P5: Wire harness pulled back and out of way.

P6: Circled in pic is the wire harness part that will make getting valve cover off a little tricky, but can be done.

P7: Remove 3 allen screws holding the ECU bracket in place.

P8: Lift ECU a bit, then unplug it from the back, can be a bit stubborn, so be careful.

P9: ECU removed, pull back heatshield. NOTE. The red/black wire hanging over the papertowel in picture is Angel eye wires, no worries.

Step 2 Valve cover & side cover removal

Picture 10: Remove 6 fat headed allen bolts.

P11: With bolts out, LIGHTLY tap around valve cover with soft faced hammer to help loosen up gasket. NEVER ever stick something between cover to pry it apart, as cover gets loose, make sure gasket stays with cover when pulling up and out, takes patience and practice, but cover will come out.

P12,13: This is what it looks like with valve cover off.

P14: Under side of cover, make sure gasket not ripped, stayed in tact, also there is 4 dowels inside the cover between 1-2, and 3-4.

P15: Remove the 6 outer allen bolts on side cover on right side of engine. Then remove cover, might be stuck because of 1. gasket. 2. there is 2 metal pins that hold up cam chain guides.

P16: With cover off, you see cam chain, 2 metal pins holding the guides, 14mm nut to turn engine over by hand, and the timing marker.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:35 PM   #14
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Chapter 3 - Checking the Valves (2)

Continued...

Step 3 Valve checking time

First thing of in this step, there is 2 ways of doing this, you can refer to the manual, follow instructions. Align TDC mark on Cylinder 1, measure with feelers, then have to rotate 180 for C 2, then 360degree for 4, then have to go back to 3 at 540degrees. Honestly, felt too complicated, but if this is the way you want to doit, then go for it, make sure to read up in service manual.

Second way of checking valves, making it simple, but more time consuming is just turn over the crankshaft until lobes face directly straight up. Example, turn crank some C1 intake lobes are straight up, use feelers, get measurements, then crank again till exhaust lobes face straight up on C1, then use feelers to get measurements. With the lobes facing straight up, means most room between lobe and bucket.

So lets get started.

Pic 1: Use socket wrench with 14mm, crank engine counter clock wise as manual says.

P2: Cylinder 1 at TDC, lobes not straight up, but facing away from the buckets where they push down on.

P3: Before placing feeler gauge between lobe and bucket, there is "oil pools" around exhaust lobes, dip the feeler gauge in those so the gauge has lube to help when using gauges.

P4: Showing turned camshaft to have lobes on Cylinder 1 facing straight up.

P5: With the lobes on Cylinder 1 facing straight up, start with high gauge, then work way down. Intake specs are between .11-20mm ( 0.0043 - 0.0079 inch), exhaust specs are between .21-.25mm ( 0.0083 -0.0098 inch).

So start with C1, lobes facing straight up, take largest feeler for spec, 0.008 feeler, dip in oil, and try to place between lobe and bucket, do not try to ram it in there, if you can't get 8 thou between then that a good start, meaning at least not tons of room or something getting worn down.
Now start working way down, if you can fit a .007 or 0.006 then thats great news, because you are within spec ( if you can fit 6-7thou, then your going to be abail to fit smaller ones in, thats why work from highest to lowest), but say if you start getting to 0.006, cant fit that one between, then goto 0.005, still doesn't fit, then you get to .004 and still doesn't fit, that means lobes are to tight, and would need shimming, either too much gap, or very very tight gap needs shimming. And .004 is very tight, average human hair is between 0.002-0.004 thickness.

So that's just 1 lobe, there is 3 lobes for each intake, and only 2 lobes on exhaust. So 20 lobes in total to check, take time, use different feeler sizes,
and to help get accurate results bend the feelers, almost like L shape to get under lobe.

For those out of spec, refer to service manual. Sections 3-11 to 3-16. Included pics 6,7,8,9,10,11.


To also help out, here's some vids i found on youtube to explain and show how to use feeler gauges and what goes on inside your engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fezXUwVfH7U This video explains timing and what goes on inside an engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIj3n...eature=related small engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9s5j...eature=related car engine, but pretty good info.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:11 PM   #15
Curby
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Chapter 4 - Partial Reassembly, Tune up

In this Chapter, going to be reassembling most of the bike back together, beginning of tune up, and prepping for sync. Pretty much just reversal of when taking things apart.

So here we go.

Pic 1: Tools needed : Pretty much same tools used to take bike apart, also going to need some zipties.

Step 1 Valve cover side cover install

Pic 2: After getting head cover back on, lift up and take look inside to make sure no dowels fell out, the 4 stuck inside the cover.

P3: After cover is on and aligned, re-lift a bit and put some black silicone on the half circle parts, the corners mostly so no leaks will occur. Don't worry, if you use little to much and make a bit of mess, after it dries, the stuff rubs right off easily.

P4: After that put plate back down, make sure gasket is seated properly throughout whole head, also use little mirror, or stick finger down spark plug hole to make sire gasket in there seated correctly like the rest on outer perimeter.

P5: Screw the 6 fat headed allen bolts in only so much, then use some oil dabbed on the smoother upper part of bolt, so when you thread into head, doesn't take chance of ruining seal and bolts will thread in easier.

P6: After that tighten down the 6 allen bolts. They don't take much to snug up, they do a "bottoming out" feeling once they go in so far.

P7: Clean up rotor cover with blade if any older gasket is stuck to it.

P8: New gasket pic again.

P9: New or old good shaped gasket and rotor cover back on, make sure pins line up with cover, then slide on, use allen wrench to tighten, also make sure crank shaft sensor wire is routed correctly and not pinched or something.

Step 2 Spark plug install

Pic 10: Remove stuffing from spark plug holes, blow out again with air compressor.

P11: Make sure to check gap on that nice new spark plug(s), use 17mm socket and plug tool to tighten. Either to 9.4lbs, or when gasket on base of spark plug touches cylinder head, turn 1/2 turn and thats it.

P12: Reinstall spark plug coils, make sure electrical open end faces towards right side, or like how it is in picture.

P13: Coil wires go on, and cam shaft sensor.

P15: Zip tie camshaft sensor to coil wire, to prevent wire dangling around and hitting rad fans.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:45 PM   #16
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Chapter 4 - Partial Reassembly, Tune up (2)

Continued...

Step 3 Install side rad tube

Picture 1: Reinstall side tube, metal clamp bottom where tube goes in, and also a small tube with pinch clamp, see picture.

P2: TIP. INSTALL THIS PIECE OF PLASTIC FIRST BEFORE ANY OTHER STEPS. Make sure to get cable holder in, and those with AIS plug into it also.

Step 4 Radiator

Picture 3: Lift up rad, hook up to main pipe that took off from before, then raise up and bolt into place, 3 main bolts. Left side 10mm, right side allen, bottom is 10mms, or just 1 8mm holding in place. snug everything up. Also in picture, make sure wires are mounted correctly and will not drag or hit on rad fans, and have enough slack so when you turn handle bars they don't pull alot.

P4: Left side heat shield, make sure wires underneath don't sag too much that you can't get heat shield into hole.

P5: Before filling up cooling system with coolant, make sure ALL fasteners and clamps are tight, even check ones you didn't touch from earlier.

P6: Using the turkey baster thingy makes it very easy too fill and not messy.

P7: After filled much as you can, put rad cap on, and try squeezing side tube on left side, will help get some of the air bubbles out, reopen rad cap and keep filling. Will take a bit to get air out of system fully.

With coolant system all filled, and clamps all tight, double check to make sure no leaks occur. Hook up all electricals, re ziptie spots that you markered off, or know where to put the plastic clamps at.

Step 5 Above frame installing

With everything below the frame done, reinstall ECU tray, ECU, plastic bracket that goes over it with 3 allen bolts, careful, threading into plastic, so can strip if over tightened.

Picture 8: With that done, airbox goes on next, make sure seal on bottom of airbox where intakes sit are in good shape and in grooves properly.

P9: Lower air box on, those with ais system make sure to connect hose on left side. Then tighten 6 bolts holding down intakes, and connect air breather tube at back of airbox with pinch clamp.

P10: Install that nice new air filter, or cleaned/washed performance air filter you have.

P11: Put airbox top on, tighten 10 philips screws, 1 in middle has rubber plug above it, then hook up green air sensor plug, make sure it has this rubber boot with in (in picture).

P12: After that's all done, go grab the battery, reinstall it, make sure when installing POSITIVE first this time, then negative once positive is on and covered with the red rubber cover. After that, turn key on, make sure no error codes are thrown.

For those looking for reference to spark plug gapping. Section 3-23 in service manual, picture 13.
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Last edited by Curby; 05-04-2008 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #17
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Chapter 5 - Synchronizing The Throttlebodies

In this Chapter, going to be synchronizing the throttlebodies. What is synchronizing? Well short form, having the throttlebodies perform the EXACT same, not 1 bit off, exact same. Same exact air/fuel mixture being lead into engine, and being in tune. Another thing, tuning is done by the AIR/FUEL mixture screws, says in manual.

So here we go.

Pic 1: Tools needed : Synchronizer tool, 3/16 connectors, small long flat screwdriver, mr wood to prop tank up, allen wrenches, dielectric grease, pliers, socket wrench with 8mm socket.

Step 1 Hose Connections

Pic 2,3,4,5: Look for 2 of these black vacuum plug connectors. Right side hoses attach 2 to 4, left side connector is 1 to 3.

P6: Use pliers to hold connector, and PUSH vacuum hose off each side, if too stubborn, use flat head to push down, never just pull and yank on the tubes or wires.

P7: After connectors are pulled out, use 3/16 hose connectors, or use the connectors your sync tool came with.

P8: Connectors put in hoses.

P9,10,11: Sync hooked up to connectors.

Step 2 Connecting fuel tank

P12: Go grab tank, mount on bike, only hand tighten the 4 8mm bolts, unless you have very small hands, reconnecting the vacuum lines to another will be pretty difficult with tank in the way when all done syncin, since left line 1 to 3 has very little slack.

P13: Now with tank mounted, prop it up with something stable n secure.

P14: TIP. use zip tie, and zip tie all the hoses together, but not tightly, and hang them on the tank mount hook(in picture), will help keep them out of way when trying to connect stuff under tank, and when getting to air/fuel screws.

P15: With tank up and hoses out of the way, start connecting connecting wires for pump and low fuel, and then fuel lines, make sure to clamp them, and put this plastic clamp on the main fuel line(in pic).
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:28 PM   #18
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Chapter 5 - Synchronizing The Throttlebodies (2)

Continued...

Step 3 Pre-check before starting

Pic 1,2,3: Check coolant res bottle, make sure enough is in there. Engine has enough oil. Make sure radiator cap is on tight, and then make sure you have enough fuel in tank, since it will be propped up.

Step 4 FIRE IT UP!

1. Turn key on, 2. Make sure NO errors codes, 3. Listen to fuel pump to make sure it primes correctly, 4. Make sure bike is in neutral, 5. Hit that start switch. As your bike fires to life, and starts warming up, take another look around, make sure NO LEAKS, no oil leaks near top valve cover, and no coolant leaks.

Picture 4,5: Is idle adjust knob, after bike is warmed up, must adjust idle if it's too high or low before touching sync bodies.

Step 5 Air/fuel adjustment screws

Pic 6,7,8,9: Are best shots i could get of the air fuel screws, they are pretty deep down and have lots of tubes n hoses in the way. But to adjust, just use long skinney flat head, turn counterclockwise to lower, turn clockwise to increase.

P10,11,12: You can see on the gauges, 1 and 2 are pretty high, 3 is standard you go by, and 4 is perfect with 3. After tuning 1 and 2, little turns counterclockwise i had all 4 the same, when tuning, after each time u fiddle with adjustment screw, quick revs of the engine, a lil half second burst. Then adjust again until results are made.

P13: TIP, after all done synchronizing, place some papertowels under tank again, cause some fuel will come out, reconnect vacuum lines to right connectors, reinstall tank, make sure when lowering no fuel lines bind.

Tighten the 4 8mm at bracket, put the 3 allen bolts at front of tank. Now tank all set and mounted.

Picture 14,15,16: Refer to service manual if need be. Sections are 3-17, 3-18,3-19.
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:24 PM   #19
Curby
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Chapter 6 - Oil Change, Finishing Up

In this Final Chapter, finishing off by oil changing to get any crude out of the engine while working on valves(like dust, small hair folicules, bit of silicone from the cover gasket), and couple small things to get done. And since engine is warm from running when doing sync adjustments, why not change the oil neways?

So here we go.

Picture 1: Tools n things needed : Papertowels, brake cleaner, oil pan, "bottle opener" from tool kit, 17mm socket and wrench, filter cap/strap removal tool, new filter, 3-4 litres of oil, also forgot to include in picture, a funnel.

Step 1 Drain plug and filter removal

Pic 2: Start by draining oil from pan, this is the plug needed to be taken out.

P3: Use 17mm socket wrench to remove bolt, remember LEFTY LOOSIE, RIGHTY TIGHTY for loosening it. Careful not to get burned by hot oil coming out from the pan.

P4,5: As oil drains from plug hole, use filter strap/wrench/socket to remove filter, some oil will puke out of here also.

Now there is 2 ways of going upon this oil change to finish it off, BASIC oil change way, just wait for oil to drain out, put plug back in, prime new oil filter then put that on, clean up any spilled oil that got on pipes or front of case with brake cleaner, then re fill with new oil, 3 litres usually gets it dead on.

Or

FiveOh style oil change, as mentioned first part of thread under Tools n Tips at post #3. He explains changing oil in different way, putting bike into Diag mode, cranking over engine(should not fire up) after main oil was already drained, and pumping out at least .25 litre/quart of oil, this was my first time attempting this way, and yeah, A LOT of dirty extra oil pumped out, usually when i oil change, i put just 3 litres/quarts in and its perfect, this time i had to add extra .25 cause that's how much got pumped out, so it does work.

So Step 2 Changing oil FiveOh style

Picture 6: This is the hole the extra dirty oil will be pumped out of(pointed)

P7: Start by having the key turned to off position, hold both buttons on front cluster gauge.

P8: Keep holding both buttons, turn key to ON, when bike first turns on, red oil light will stay on, and bike at first says "HI" in the temp spot. Keep holding buttons.

P9: After holding both buttons when you turn key to on, after about 5 seconds should goto this. Just says Diag.

P10: After it stays as Diag, press and hold the buttons again till it shows this, d01: 16, or d01: XX (xx being what ever numbers first appear, 16 is first number mine appeared as).

After that, the bike should not fire when you crank over engine to pump that crappy old oil out, after done pumping out oil, you can just turn key off, and will display normally when you turn key back on again in future.

Step 3 Prime filter, reinstall, filling oil

Pic 11: Put plug back in first thing first, tighten CAREFULLY not to strip the oil pan threads.

P12,13,14: Prime the filter with oil before installing, fill it with oil right to the brim, oil will soak into filter element, then make sure run finger around o ring so it's lubed when you tighten it. Use filter strap, and turn 1/4 turn after base touches engine case. After that, use brake cleaner, clean off pipes and front of engine to help ease looking for leaks(if any), and less oil burning off pipes when you goto start it.

P15,16: Loosen and remove fill cap on right side of engine. Use tool from tool kit.

P17,18: Now use funnel and dump in 3 litres/quarts of oil into fill hole. After 3 are in, put cap back on, start engine, let it run and circulate, shut off engine. With the motorcycle on stands, or have it STRAIGHT UP, look into site glass again and check oil level about 5 mins after you shut engine down, if you need a little more, take cap off, fill slowly till desired amount, but make sure you don't OVERFILL.

With that being done, congrats on all the hard work you have just done to your beloved machine. Last thing to do is just recheck for ANY LEAKS, and your good to go.


After that, pretty much left over to assemble is UPPER plastics pieces, MID fairings, LOWER fairings, and TAIL fairings, just in reversal order of taking them off in CHAPTER 1.

Lastly, if you disconnected the battery, refer to your owners manual that came with bike to reset the clock, and redo the shifting light set points to your desired settings.

Anyways with that all being said, i hope this helps those looking to do work on their motorcycle(s) themselves to save the high costs of labour at dealerships, and get the enjoyment of working on their own machine.

Any other help let me know.

Curby
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Last edited by Curby; 04-29-2008 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:40 PM   #20
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