Suggestions on removing stuck axle bolt???

[j334]

I have a couple issues with my 04 R1. First off; I'm trying to remove the rear wheel and the axle bolt won't budge at all!!!! I like to think that I am pretty but this thing will not move. I tried using both the tool that came in my tool box and my 32mm socket to no success. I have taken the tire off a few times before with no problems, but for some reason this time it's giving me problems.

My 2nd issue is that the cable that attaches to the rear keyhole for the rear compartment came undone and I am not able to access my PCIII or switch out my seat cap to my solo cowl. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue? Thanx

[Sal_R1]

Spray PB-40 on the thread / bolt and leave it overnight. Heat up the bolt evenly with a torch and it will come right off.

[j334]

Thanx alot man!!! I'll give it a shot... I've never heard of PB-40 but if I can't find that I will just use WD-40 instead...Thanx again

[lexanidubs09]

i think he meant WD-40

[steveWFL]

and maybe a big huge hammer

[j334]

I couldn't find the PB-40 but I did find some PB-50 and supposedly its better than WD-40. I will see in the morning. If not I'll resort to option B, The "big huge hammer"...

[Sal_R1]

Originally Posted by j334

I couldn't find the PB-40 but I did find some PB-50 and supposedly its better than WD-40. I will see in the morning. If not I'll resort to option B, The "big huge hammer"...

Right you are! PB-50 is the stuff. available at Pep Boys, Sears and mosr major auto places.

[Sal_R1]

Originally Posted by lexanidubs09

i think he meant WD-40

What i meant was, when is the date set for the squadron titty bar ride?

[bunnyrbt]

Originally Posted by steveWFL

and maybe a big huge hammer

I've used a breaker bar and a hammer when mine gets stuck and it works like a charm.

[Viper333]

WD40 and the PB 50 are good for lubricating things but if you want to get something that penetrates into tight or rusted corroded areas you will have better results with a penetranting catalist like liquid wrench.
I personally have had the best results with PB blaster. Its also generally available at most auto parts stores.
http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

Its doubtful your problem is corrosion and sounds like youre overtorqueing and maybe even lightly galling the threads.
Galling: to lose metal to the other because of heat or molecular attraction resulting from friction.

Dont get so heavy on the nut when securing the axle and dont torque it dry. At least put some WD or oil on the threads.
Use a torque wrench and question the axle torque specs in the manual. Yamaha has been known to enter too high a torque value to things like axles and sprockets.
A torch can also help by expanding the nut a little, but a cheater bar is ususlly the trick.
If possible try to use a 6 point socket because of the less damaging/larger contact area it exerts on the nut.
The axle nut is big enough that its unlikely youll round it off but when you have a high torque condition its best to use 6 points.



As far as the seatlock. That will be fun. Someone thats done that will have to chime in or take a good look at it with someone mechanically inclined before getting at it.

Best of luck
Rick

[Piper]

My 2nd issue is that the cable that attaches to the rear keyhole for the rear compartment came undone and I am not able to access my PCIII or switch out my seat cap to my solo cowl. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue? Thanx

Haven't tried it myself, but I heard that the OEM seat will bend up in the middle, and with enough effort the tab holding it in at the back will pop out.

[turd1]

Originally Posted by Viper333

WD40 and the PB 50 are good for lubricating things but if you want to get something that penetrates into tight or rusted corroded areas you will have better results with a penetranting catalist like liquid wrench.
I personally have had the best results with PB blaster. Its also generally available at most auto parts stores.
http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

Its doubtful your problem is corrosion and sounds like youre overtorqueing and maybe even lightly galling the threads.
Galling: to lose metal to the other because of heat or molecular attraction resulting from friction.

Dont get so heavy on the nut when securing the axle and dont torque it dry. At least put some WD or oil on the threads.
Use a torque wrench and question the axle torque specs in the manual. Yamaha has been known to enter too high a torque value to things like axles and sprockets.
A torch can also help by expanding the nut a little, but a cheater bar is ususlly the trick.
If possible try to use a 6 point socket because of the less damaging/larger contact area it exerts on the nut.
The axle nut is big enough that its unlikely youll round it off but when you have a high torque condition its best to use 6 points.



As far as the seatlock. That will be fun. Someone thats done that will have to chime in or take a good look at it with someone mechanically inclined before getting at it.

Best of luck
Rick

a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!

[Viper333]

Originally Posted by blur1

a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!

Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.

[turd1]

Originally Posted by Viper333

Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.

right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!

[Viper333]

Originally Posted by blur1

right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!

Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.

[turd1]

Originally Posted by Viper333

Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.

lol....yep!

[KMac]

Just to clarify, you already have the nut off of it, right?....and it's the axle itself that is stuck inside the wheel?

Spray some penetrating lube in there and hit it with an impact wrench a few times at low pressure. A few sharp impulses will do better to break it free than trying to muscle it off with high force. Once you do, I'd suggest replacing it and anything else that was stuck to it. And when you reinstall make sure the axle is not dry, lube it lightly with something.

[Sal_R1]

The mutual commendation society!

Originally Posted by blur1

a good post right there...
+1 on the galling theory too!

Originally Posted by Viper333

Thanks and I know.
By the way. All the best to you mates down under for the Holidays.

Originally Posted by blur1

right back atcha bro!
damm, i just noticed you've been a member longer than me!

Originally Posted by Viper333

Damn thats true. Id have never thought it by the post counts.
I guess I can call you Junior then.

Originally Posted by blur1

lol....yep!

[Viper333]

Originally Posted by Kmac

Just to clarify, you already have the nut off of it, right?....and it's the axle itself that is stuck inside the wheel?

Spray some penetrating lube in there and hit it with an impact wrench a few times at low pressure. A few sharp impulses will do better to break it free than trying to muscle it off with high force. Once you do, I'd suggest replacing it and anything else that was stuck to it. And when you reinstall make sure the axle is not dry, lube it lightly with something.

Its unlikely the axle isnt turning with the nut off because the only thing to hold it would be the brake carrier. Everyting else is bearings and with the nut relieved I doubt the spacers could grip it enough to cause the issue.
It happens but is rare and yes the penetrant impact way would be the way to go.
If he has the nut off then the issue is usually the axle wont slide out because of it being siezed/corroded to the spacers and/or bearings.
Many times when you try to hit the end of the axle, the outer arm thats recieving the impact (through the stuck axle/spacer assy) will act like a spring, absorb the impacts and bounce back.
Ive seen guys sledge the shiat out of axles and not get them out, because of that springing action. Sometime a strategically placed heavy piece of wood on the outer arm helps keep it from springing out and exerts more impact load in the axle. Just be careful to not ding up the arm.

I use a handheld airhammer and at its imact rate it hits while the arm is springing back. This has been the best way Ive found to unstick an axle.
Of course you never pound on the end of the axle and destroy the threads. Its best to use a sacrificial nut screwed onto the threads leaving it proud, or put the stock one on backwards at least.
If its not too stuck then a hammer and drift will work with some penetrant.
Either way let us know what it is/was, good luck and dont hurt her.

[KMac]

I don't disagree with any of that. Would be interesting to find out what is holding it, though. I'd feel pretty dumb to find out it was something like the chain was ungodly tight or something else mostly unrelated.