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Mechanical / Help This area to for help in the areas of, engine, carbs, transmission, suspension, mounting etc
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10-10-2009, 11:20 AM
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#1
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COD R1
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 119
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front Brake losing pressure
Ok so heres the dealio, I bought a 06 636, the guy installed ss front brake lines, and it has always been spongy, and just kept getting worse. Las weekend I rebled the brake lines, and it was perfect for a day or two, then it got spongy fast, and lost nearly all its pressure in a few days. I thought maybe I didnt tighten the top bleeder nipple very tight because it looked like it was leaking ever so slowly out the top. I rebled them, and this time cranked the top bleeder nipple down (I now know after reading this was a mistake) and I can feel them starting to loose pressure.
How do I correct this? I imagine the previous owner tightened it down too much previously and now I need a new master cyl?
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2006 r1 50th anniversary- BMC race filter, Graves Velocity stacks, AIS removed, Power Commander III USB, Two Brothers Carbon-Fiber pipes, Akrapovic Y pipe
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10-10-2009, 11:24 AM
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#2
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COD R1
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 119
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oh and when I rebleed them air came out the top bleeder screw/nipple, nothing out of the bottom ones.
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2006 r1 50th anniversary- BMC race filter, Graves Velocity stacks, AIS removed, Power Commander III USB, Two Brothers Carbon-Fiber pipes, Akrapovic Y pipe
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10-10-2009, 11:29 AM
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#3
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↓ dn ʎɐʍ sıɥʇ ↓
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 3,442
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If the bleeders are sealing properly then you may need to rebuild the master.
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-Ryan
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10-10-2009, 11:53 AM
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#4
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i just got smoked by a 250.
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,655
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try buying "speed bleeder" nipples. they really make bleeding great because you don't get rid of ALL the bubbles.
try taking apart your brake pads + calipers and giving them a good clean with degreaser.
also clean n degrease your rotors and wipe them down.
i did this to my rear brake yesterday because it has seriously been SUCKING lately. and now my rear brake feels almost amazing as my front.
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|R1-014 Dragon Squadron|
Last edited by turd1; 10-10-2009 at 03:03 PM.
Reason: 6 spelling mistakes!
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10-10-2009, 02:35 PM
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#5
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Is there anybody out there?
Join Date: May 2003
Bikes: 99 R1
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 2,691
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+1 on the speed bleeders. Install clear tubing to drain fluid, crack nipple and pump. I've gotten a couple of sets from this guy:
ebay@sevensaturdays.com
Mark
99 R1
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10-10-2009, 04:52 PM
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#6
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Destroy what destroys you
Join Date: Feb 2007
Bikes: 2009 R1
Location: NJ
Posts: 367
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You basically answered your question with the air coming out of the top bleeder.
You cannot crank them too tight as you just found that out.
Quick and easy try first is to replace the bleeder with a new one and see if air comes out of that one, if it does, then I would start looking for a master on ebay or somewhere.
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10-10-2009, 05:27 PM
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#7
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President Elect
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 1,904
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if air is getting in ....then should be signs of fluid leak...maybe even residual sweating ...sometimes road debris covers...clean areas and recheck..
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10-10-2009, 11:58 PM
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#8
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I eat my R1
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 357
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Are you bleeding the calipers and the master cylinder? You only made mention of the master cylinder.
Also, about brake systems, they don't maintain pressure and don't lose it over time. When you bleed them, you're trying to remove compressible gasses from the system so that the brakes can build pressure faster as you squeeze the lever. Pressure is only created as you squeeze the lever. Air isn't the only thing that will make brakes spongy. Anything which causes the pads to get pushed back into the caliper will, like a bent rotor. Anything that hangs the pad up as it sqeezes the caliper also will, this includes worn pad retaining pins and anti-rattle springs.
It would take a supprisingly noticeable leak for you to really feel it in the lever.
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