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02-03 R1 Mechanical Help Mechnical and Critical Issues for the 02-03 R1

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Old 12-10-2009, 05:00 PM   #1
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03 r1 fast idle unit adj

has anyone ever adjusted the fast idle unit's screw?
i noticed that my screw was backed all the way off (almost fell out) and wondered where it is supposed to be set?
the reason i think i am having a problem with this unit is because i am trying to sync my throttle bodys and the reading on the manometer is inconsistent and fluctuating with engine temp. (one second #1 tb will be low and #2 hi, then a couple seconds later, with no adjustment #1 will go hi and #2 become low)


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Old 12-11-2009, 12:10 AM   #2
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Wind it all the way in and count rotations, then wind out half way, remember do not force it.
Then balance and sync
Then adjust as necessary to 1100rpm
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Old 12-11-2009, 06:04 AM   #3
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cool, thanks r6gr8t1! i will try that today!
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:17 PM   #4
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ok, i tried what you said and couldnt really get it to work. so i just took off the spring, and choked it by hand. got it all warmed up, then pinned the slide that chokes all the t/b to the left (no choke).
i still have variations in the manometer! temp is fluxing between 210 and 223.
when it wasnt fluxing i tried making adjustments just for it to turn out worse. i think that i am not able to sync these t/b's. i will have to pay someone else to do it =(
just a quick question, to which t/b would i make the adjustment if #1 is hi, #2 is hi and #4 is low? do you try to bring #4 up? or #1 and #2 down?

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Old 12-11-2009, 01:53 PM   #5
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Is the water tubing plugged into the unit? It's suppose to act like a choak. Cold engine - ups the idea... ect. So when the motor is warm it shouldn't come into play with what you are trying to do. If it's adjusted right.
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Is the water tubing plugged into the unit? It's suppose to act like a choak. Cold engine - ups the idea... ect. So when the motor is warm it shouldn't come into play with what you are trying to do. If it's adjusted right.
yeah its plugged in, and it is operating correctly from what i can see. i just needed to take out that variable in the fluxing of the vacuum
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:23 PM   #7
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this prob is still kicking my butt. can anybody share their technique of sync-ing the throttle bodys with me????
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:30 PM   #8
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If you get them close what issue is the bike having afterwards?

Are you just trying to get it as close as possible?

I've always found that you want to do the basics first before getting down to the hard stuff. So basic maint stuff like clean filter, plugs new or good, compression check good, leakdown if needed or suspect, and the kicker too all 02-03 issues... is the battery charged and is the charging system up to par!

The last one kicks more people in the azz than anything else on this series of R1!

Not trying to be hard on you, but your meter looks a little home built. Have you put vaccum to it and let it sit for a day or so to verify for leaks? From the look of your info you aren't know about TB3. What is the number for TB3 and how do the other TB numbers compair to that one?

Sorry, catching up and too lazy to read the whole thread.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:34 PM   #9
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Almost forgot...

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231452

Post 18... WAY down the page. Talks about sync'ing.
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Almost forgot...

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231452

Post 18... WAY down the page. Talks about sync'ing.
yeah i have been using that thread as my bible for this adventure!
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waxer View Post
If you get them close what issue is the bike having afterwards?

Are you just trying to get it as close as possible?

I've always found that you want to do the basics first before getting down to the hard stuff. So basic maint stuff like clean filter, plugs new or good, compression check good, leak down if needed or suspect, and the kicker too all 02-03 issues... is the battery charged and is the charging system up to par!

The last one kicks more people in the azz than anything else on this series of R1!

Not trying to be hard on you, but your meter looks a little home built. Have you put vacuum to it and let it sit for a day or so to verify for leaks? From the look of your info you aren't know about TB3. What is the number for TB3 and how do the other TB numbers compair to that one?

Sorry, catching up and too lazy to read the whole thread.
im with ya on the basics. thats always the first thing i go too. first i cleaned my filter. i changed my plugs 200 miles ago and i pulled them to inspect and they look just fine. compression is good, there is nothing wrong with the battery that i had in it, but i replaced it just to be sure. the stator is doing just fine @ around 14 vdc. oil is fresh. i swapped out starter relays. and this all for the "starting" problem. -which i believe is a combo of the t/b's out of sync and the fast idle unit out of adjustment-



i think that i have the fast idle adjustment pretty close now. what i did was i manually choked the t/b's by taking off the spring on the fast idle unit's slide. then ran it until normal operating temp. i then adjusted the screw to where it would hold the slide right on the 4 t/b's choke (for lack of a better term) plungers without pulling on them. now it will start within 8 sec on the first push of the start button.

now the second prob. sync-ing
you are right about my manometer being home made. i followed jhelmuth's thread http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233550 on how to make one. i have not been able to put a controlled vacuum to test it, but i have used it successfully on my buddy's bike and i was able to sync his.
i have tried to find a 4 tube manometer for sale and have no luck.

now, the issue is that my t/b's are fighting over the fluid in the manifold. so say for instance, if #1 is hi #2 is alittle hi, and #4 is low. i will try to take #1 down and then #2 and #4 shoot up because they have more pull than #1 does now... its not an instant thing, because the adjustments that i am making are so small, but over 60 seconds, it will just flip the script. bottom line is i have really screwed up my sync-ing and they might be sooo far from synced a beginner like myself wont ever be able to sync them. do you know if there is just a starting point to where i can back the screws out to and go from there?
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:09 AM   #12
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OK!!!! THE HEADACHE IS OVER!!!
i got so fed up with this, i took and backed out all three t/b's adj screws, leaving #3 t/b to have the most vacuum. then i just kept adding to the other three until they equaled out!
i might have wore out my starter in this process, but i believe it was worth it to finally get this $h!t over with!
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:13 AM   #13
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Oh, also, thank you for all the help and suggestions Waxer and r6gr8t1!!!!!
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:32 AM   #14
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glad to be of little assistace
you surely had a tough one there
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:38 PM   #15
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Old School! I love it!

Glad you came at it from a different angle and it worked!
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