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Old 07-11-2012, 03:37 PM   #1
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Flash-Tune R1 Interface FAQ (Please Read Before Posting Questions)

R1 Flash-Tune Interface FAQ

This thread is meant to hold the most common questions that most people have been asking. Please read this thread FIRST before posting a question. This thread will only include questions and answers that have been taken from the knowledge-base in this forum and direct from Flash-Tune. This thread is only meant to be a guide, and the information here is not guaranteed in any way. If you are unsure how to use your interface, feel free to ask questions in the Flash-Tune interface help thread. In the end, contacting Flash-Tune customer service is your best bet to get specific help.

PLEASE DO NOT POST QUESTIONS, ANSWERS, OR RANDOM COMMENTS INTO THIS THREAD

I would like to manage the format and info in this thread. If you have a question or answer that you would like to see in this thread please post in the F-T interface help thread, or send me a PM.

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Old 07-11-2012, 06:55 PM   #2
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Q:Can I use a trickle charger to power the interface?

Q: Can I use a trickle charger to power the interface?

Quote:
A: NO Trickle chargers do not supply constant power to the device. Car and motorcycle charges check to see battery voltage before supplying current. The Flash-Tune interface requires a 12V DC power supply that can supply approximately constant and up to 500mA of current.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:03 PM   #3
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Q: If I want to build a wall mount powersupply, what do the specs need to be?

Q: If I want to build a wall mount powersupply, what do the specs need to be?

Quote:
A: It need to be a 12V DC power supply that can produce up to 500mA. Positive is on center and the connector type is a BNC. Flash-Tune sells a wall mount power adapter, if you would rather buy one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SySt
Certain wall power supplies may not work and can damage the interface. Yes, the power supply must be rated at 12v and at least 500mA. One thing to note is that some of the wall power supplies out there use a voltage divider circuit rather than a voltage regulating circuit. In other words, a resistor is used in series to drop the output voltage. The problem with this is that the voltage output will depend on the load connected to the power supply. A larger load will cause the load to see greater voltage while a smaller load will see lesser voltage. This all means that an interface connected to one of these style power supplies may be supplied a voltage greater than or less than 12v.
Of course a wall mount power supply is not required to run the interface, since by default the Flash-Tune Interface comes with a simple connector to use a 12V motorcycle battery to power the interface. A wall mount power supply is only handy for those who want to flash the ECU away from the bike, and not have to remove to battery from the bike to do so.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:23 PM   #4
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Q: Can I re-flash my bike back to a stock ECU?

Q: Can I re-flash my bike back to a stock ECU?

Quote:
A: YES. Simply open the Flash-Tune software and load the "Stock ECU" Flash-Tune map for you bike. A US spec bike will be exactly returned to the stock settings.
If you have an EU R1 the immobilizer will be permanently disabled if a US base image is used. However if the ECU is flashed with a EU spec base image, then the immobilizer will function as normal (if the conditions in the next post are met). See the next post for more information.

There seems to be a small bug in the idle code for 07-08 R1s. Please contact F-T if you have this issue and report the bug.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:39 PM   #5
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Q: I have an EU R1, can I flash my bike and keep the immobilizer function?

Q: I have an EU R1, can I flash my bike and keep the immobilizer function?


Answer for using the v2.x version of the software:
Quote:
A: The interface is compatible with European ECU’s and harnesses. There are at least two different base ECU images. One made for a USA spec bike and one made for a EU spec bike. When you flash an EU ECU with a US base image set to use the EU wiring harness, the immobilizer function/signals are ignored, and any ECU can be flashed and it will start any EU spec bike that is compatible with that ECU. If a EU base image is flashed into the ORIGINAL ECU that was paired with that ORIGINAL immobilizer (a matched pair is required) the Immobilizer will still function as normal. If a non-matched pair ECU/Immobilizer is used with an EU base image, then the bike will not start and it will act as if you have plugged in a random ECU into the bike. Any of the maps in the EU base image can be over written to tune the bike as needed. This has been tested by members here, and it has worked. For more help please ask a question in the help thread linked above.

Answer for the older V1.x version of the software:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash-Tune
A: The interface is compatible with European ECU’s and harnesses. It is not compatible with the immobilizer which will be permanently disabled after using the interface. Furthermore, the immobilizer will need to be unplugged before running diagnostic mode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by n4speed View Post
Imobilizer conector under the filter box
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
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Q: What are the the different base maps?

Q: What are the the different base maps?

Quote:
A: The primary differences between the base maps are changes to the timing maps. By default these maps do not include any changes to fueling or injector proportioning. The timing changes are optimized to run different grades of fuel, such as 87 or 91+ octane, or even different grades of higher octane race fuels. The stock base map, returns all settings back to original US/EU spec. It is the user's responsibility to make fuel changes appropriate for any modifications that have been made to the engine, intake or exhaust.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #7
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Q: Do the base maps include fueling changes?

Q: Do the base maps include fueling changes?

Quote:
A: NO. All of the base Flash-Tune maps contain stock fueling maps. The user is responsible for making fueling changes away from stock appropriate for the bike and any modifications that were made to the engine, intake or exhaust.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:40 PM   #8
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Q: I have a 2009-2011 or 12+ R1 with slip-ons and a y-pipe, which map should I use?

Q: I have a 2009-2011 or 12+ R1 with slip-ons and a y-pipe, which map should I use?

Quote:
A: There are a number of solutions for this including using an auto tune or dyno to develop a custom map for your bike. You can download a generic map PCV Dyno-Jet map appropriate for your bike and modifications, and apply those fueling changes to one of the base maps. Last but not least, there is also a 3/4-system dyno tune provided by Flash-Tune.

The 3/4-system dyno tune is a custom map developed on the Flash-Tune dyno and includes all fueling and timing changes. This map also includes optimizes parameters for smooth Flash-Tune quick shifter performance. This map is the one used for the example dyno sheet on the Flash-Tune web page.
My opinion: The 3/4 system is a great ECU image if you just have a simple 3/4 system, and are not looking for every 0.05 BHP out of your bike but want a good tune for your 09-11 R1. This is as close as you can get to a custom dyno tune without bringing your bike to a dyno or installing an auto-tune. One thing to keep in mind is that the generic PCV maps were made on a restricted R1, so they may not provide the best performance at top end where the stock restriction are. In the end, an auto-tune setup is likely the best way to make the most power under real world situations.

Update (11-26-13)
5.3.15 is the newest version of my tune for 09+. These images have the same notes as the updates dated 9-15-13 below, just with a few more updates from AT data.
Link To The Images

Update (9-5-13)
Link To The Images
Quote:
OK guys here are the four versions of the ECU images I have been working on. All the fueling, timing, and YCC-T changes have been applied to these ECU images to provide the smoothest throttle response and reduction in engine breaking.

The fueling is based on previous AT and dyno trims from soultrin and marshdrummer. The fueling should be set up for a 3/4 system.

The biggest change is the timing. I have moved to a "mechanical like advance" for the map. This change has removed the plateau with sharp edges that you have to cross over when transitioning from neutral throttle to accelerating. The result has been smooth throttle transitions and engine breaking characteristics. I have also kept the stock timing for the neutral map to help the idle characteristics.

The throttle maps are the maps that I developed a while back. A mode has the aggressive A, STD has the optional A and B has the tweaked STD mode. So be aware that these ECU images do not have the "typical stock" YCC-T map configuration.

Please remember that a few members and I have tested these maps, but you must use at your own risk. While we have tested them, we might not have explored parts of the ECU image that you might and cannot be held responsible for anything that may happen. If you do find something that you do not like, let me know and we can work to fix it.

The four maps are for 2009R1 (09-11 R1 US base image) and 2009EUR1 (09-11 R1 EU base image), 2012R1 (12+ R1 US base image) and 2012EUR1 (121+ R1 EU base image). Be sure to use the correct image appropriate for your bike.

If you have an EU bike, and have the ECU originally paired with your bike, you can use the EU image and still have the immobilizer operational. If you have an EU bike and want to disable the immobilizer, use the US base image and set the US harness config to false. The US bikes should only use the images based on the US images.

Enjoy....

Update (6-9-13)
Quote:
OK so here(http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showp...postcount=7100) are the small tweaks I made to the latest ECU images.

I have made a small change to all of the YCC-T maps, to help that slow roll behind traffic speeds in the city. I also incorporated a new round of AT tweaks.

All the same throttle curves are in the same spots as the last round, and all the same comments about those maps apply to these new maps, which is why they only incremented one in the last digit.

Let me know how you guys like them.
Update (6-1-13)

Quote:
So here are the updated ECU images (http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showp...postcount=6831). As always, use at your own risk.


09-11 v5.1.3 have the same YCC-T map configuration as the previous version, B has STD mode, STD mode has an optional A, A mode has the slightly more aggressive in A mode. This Image will start up in B (not sure you can change this).

09-11 v4.3.1 has a "standard" YCC-T map configuration and starts in STD mode and the Default to A mode works as normal. B has linear B mode, STD mode has STD mode, A mode has the slightly more aggressive in A mode.

12+ has the same YCC-T map configuration as the previous version, B has linear B mode, STD mode has STD mode, A mode has the slightly more aggressive in A mode.

All of these YCC-T maps have been linearized at low TPS and RPM. They are really smooth. You can mix and match these maps as you see fit to make what ever combo you want.

There is also a tweak to timing curve at low TPS and RPM to smooth out the engine breaking.

The fuel maps are the same as the previous version.

Update (5-8-13):
Quote:
I have worked to remove all of the on-off-on throttle transitions at low RPM and low TPS. This ECU image is butter smooth at all RPM and TPS in A mode and STD mode. B mode is basically stock. The version of this ECU images have all of these tweaks, plus fueling at high RPM and high TPS based on the PeenV2 fuel maps. This is currently the best ECU image for 09+ that I have to offer. I have some AT trims to incorporate into the fuel maps in this image, I just need to find the time to work on it. Expect another update in the coming few weeks.

The ECU images can be found here:
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showp...postcount=6417


Update (3-16-13): There have been lots of work done developing an 09+ r1 3/4 system ECU image by the folks here on the forum. Here are the newest generation of ECU images for 09-11 and 12+ R1s, they can be found here, with a summary of how they perform located below.
Quote:
OK, so here is the scoop. I tested, four basic things yesterday and today, and tweaked from there. I tested the ECU image that Elwin posted, an image that OilField sent me, the PeenV2 image that I had been playing around with, and a stock map. I made the same loop right near my house which included long straight, slow and fast corners. I tried to do the same thing each time, and tried to carry the same pace. My goal was to figure out which map I liked better, based on smoothness, engine breaking and usability. Any changes I made were to reduce engine breaking and to smooth things out. Fueling was left unchanged.
  1. OEM Image:Obviously the stock image was crap, nearly impossible to find neutral throttle, and in general down on power driving out of the corner, and down the straight. I did this to remind my self how bad the OEM image is, and used it as a yard stick to compare the engine breaking to.
  2. PeenV2's Image: I have been using this image for a while, and had been tweaking it for smoothness, so this was the other end of my yard stick for smoothness and feel.
  3. Elwin's Image: Over all smooth power delivery, but did not feel as strong.
    • I liked the linear standard mode. So I give you a big on this, but I very much disliked how touchy it was at low APS. The transition on and off throttle was hard to deal with.
    • The overall engine breaking was basically stock, and I was not a fan of that.
    • The power delivery outside engine breaking range was very smooth, but felt a touch down on overall power compared to the Peen and OilField images. I think that this was on purpose, because you said that you tuned it to 13.1 rather than 12.8... It just didn't feel as awe inspiring as the others. Maybe I am off there, but thats how it felt to me.
  4. OilField's Image: WOW! This one felt really nice, but also needed some tweaking.
    • The overall engine breaking was basically stock, and I was not a fan of that.
    • The power delivery was very strong. It really launched the bike out of the corner and down the straight. This ECU image was the one that he ran on the Dyno a while back (but not the final one), so we know that the AFRs are a safe bet at least on the dyno anyway.
    • Thus far this image feels like the strongest image I have ridden with, I really liked it

After all that I started to tweak Elwin's and OilField's map like had done to Peen's image. I have first figured out how the engine breaking sliders worked in the past versions, and I emulated those corrections.
  1. There is a region in the ignition timing maps that controls how the high RPM behaves. The region near zero TPS and high RPM are filled with ~70's and that basically means that the plug is firing way before the piston is near TDC, so it is basically pushing the wrong way on the piston putting the breaks on. To fix this, I advanced the timing toward TDC, and this basically allows the engine to run more free at these RPMs.
  2. The next issue with the timing map is the fact that there is a hard edge where the timing switches from like 70 deg BTDC, and then in the next column it goes back to 40 something and suddenly starts making power. This gives the jerky power-no power-power issues when you are trying to find neutral throttle. So by smoothing out this transition I greatly smoothed out the on off throttle transition above 7,000 RPM.
  3. To help the engine breaking at lower RPM, and higher RPMs as well, the YCC-T maps needed changes as well. The very first thing that needed to change was at high RPM the throttle blades should not go to full closed, because this sends the signal to the timing to jump into the heavy engine breaking region, so by tweaking the high RPM low APS region to numbers that are non zero doesn't even let the engine get into that area in the first place. At low RPM, it helps to flatten out the region a bit from 4%APS and down. this makes more of a plateau rather than what feels like a knife edge when trying to find neutral throttle in the middle of a corner.
  4. At higher RPM and high input throttle, the engine can make use of timing closer to TDC, so I made a change of a large block of the map to 40 degrees. The stock timing maps are all over the place, so by smoothing this out makes more consistent power, and a smoother delivery. If you wait longer to squish the fuel mixture you get more out of it. Before you start asking if this is ok, the answer is yes, the OEM map has 39's in some places in this region, and the average number is roughly 40. I hear no pinging, and the exhaust note is much cleaner with no hint of breakup running US spec 93 Octane. This change actually made the engine sound much better at full song.

So I went out and tested Elwin's and OilField's ECU images with these changes.
  1. These changes greatly helped Elwin's image in terms of on-off throttle transitions. Though it still felt a tick down on power. It didn't feel like I had to hang on for dear life, nor did it pick up the front real easy. The map was basically already running at 40 degrees timing at higher RPM, so there was not much to be gained here in his image.
  2. OilField's map ate up these tweaks and performed amazingly. With the tweaks to Elwin's linear STD mode, made this map superbly linear, and so easy to find neutral throttle mid-corner and it was super smooth to add throttle as you launch off it. The more throttle you add the more power you get, and oh boy was there power. It picks the front up, and you had better hold on, because it goes with or without you...

Overall, my vote goes to OilField's maps with my tweaks. I have attached them here with permission from OilField. I have made these ECU images as 12+ and 09-11 trims. These are basically free of the 12+ 5k stumbles, and perform great in both bikes (OilField tested the changes in his '12)

As usual, this is for 09-11 and 12+ R1's with 3/4 exhaust systems running at least US spec 91 octane, though US spec 93 is probably preferred. Use the one for your bike based on the filename. If you use them you assume all risks involved, and be sure you look the ECU image over, and make any tweaks you see fit, especially on the general settings tab.

I would like to thank Oilfield, Elwin, R1evo, and F-T who have helped thus far. I have only basically compiled the knowledge and tweaked on things. Keep up the good work. I think it is awesome how far this has come since the beginning.

Ok let the arguing commence, and I understand that people will still have their favorites. In reality, this is what makes this so great, because this is just another great option....but thus far I think it is the best

Enjoy

TAD

Edit to update the A mode maps with the fix for the A-mode choppiness at 6k. I also have incorporated some auto trims from YZFSoulTrain. Please use the new V4.1 version of this ECU image.
Elwin's map can be found a few pages before this post.


Update (8-30-12):
Quote:
Peen has been working on tweaking the 3/4 system ECU image to make it smoother and stronger at all RPM ranges. This is a link to the post with the ECU image he posted. Look at the settings and make sure you understand what the map is before you use it. Use at your own risk, but it is pretty awesome. For '12 users there are a few other maps attempting to smooth out the '12 power delivery in following posts.


Enjoy!
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:25 PM   #9
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Q: How do I load a PCV map and apply the changes to a F-T base map?

Q: How do I load a PCV map and apply the changes to a F-T base map?

Quote:
A: There are three basic steps: Choose a Flash-Tune base map, load the chosen PCV map into the software and "Overwrite" the fueling changes to the base map. The fuel changes to the base map are not made until the "Overwrite" button is depressed. The fuel changes have now been made to the map. You can adjust the other settings to your preferences and flash the ECU. When loading a PCV map, be sure to check that the "Link Map Changes by cylinder or gear" option is selected.
You can down load the generic PCV maps from the Dyno Jet web page. 2008 PCV Maps can be found here at the bottom of the page, 2009 PCV Maps can be found here at the bottom of the page and the 2012 PCV Maps can be found here at the bottom of the page. I found it most effective to download the zip file with all the PCV files all at once.

07-08 users could PM JAGI who has some dyno tune PC3 maps for that generation R1.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #10
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Q:Should I link changes between gears/cylinders when editing fuel or ignition tables?

Q: Should I link changes between gears/cylinders when editing fuel or ignition tables?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SySt View Post
A: There is not a separate fuel map per gear, just per cylinder. I would recommend not making all of the cylinder maps the same. The fuel requirements for each cylinder differ which is why there is a separate fuel map for each. If by link the cylinder maps you mean that you will link changes between cylinders I do recommend this. This is essentially what the overall effect of using a Powercommander or the likes is.
Quote:
When editing timing maps you can link changes in the timing map to all gears if there is an effect that you are trying to change in all gears. If there is only a one change that you are trying to make in one gear, it is wise to not link changes.
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

Last edited by Tad158; 07-12-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:48 PM   #11
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Q: What engine breaking settings should I use?

Q: What engine breaking settings should I use?
In the V2.xxx versions of the software the engine breaking slider settings no longer exist. There are a few main things that can be done: the timing maps where the timing is more than 50 degrees BTDC can be reduced, the injector cut can be disabled, and changes to the throttle maps can be made to make the throttle smoother. There is also a ETV decel comp map. Values less than 100 will provide a more snappy throttle as it closes. Values more than 100 will give a throttle that closes more slowly. BE CAREFUL HERE!!! If you use too large of a value you can actually end up with a bike that has basically a stuck throttle!....So make small 2-5% changes, and only make them to one of the modes so you can always switch back to another working mode if an issue with your setting arises.

Below is is mainly for the V1.xxx versions of the software.
Quote:
A: Engine breaking is 100% up to your preference. Don't be afraid to try different settings until you find a set of settings that match your riding style. The F/I setting controls how the ECU retards the ignition and leaves the injectors on after a negative change in TPS. The Electric Throttle Valve (ETV) setting controls how quickly and to what degree the ETV closes the throttle plates on a negative change in TPS. The F/I setting mainly controls the high RPM engine braking, and the ETV setting controls the low-RPM engine breaking. This change over is in the vicinity of 5,000 RPM.
The following are suggestions to serve as starting points for you to start adjusting from.

For an 07-08,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meister37
I like about 40% engine braking.
For 09+,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash-Tune
Try 20% on ETV, and 100% on F/I.
On the 09+ the 20% ETV is to match the engine breaking from high RPM to low RPM engine braking providing a smooth transition, with predictable engine breaking throughout the whole RPM range.
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

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Old 07-12-2012, 09:52 PM   #12
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Q: What happens when I disable the stock O2 sensor?

Q: What happens when I disable the stock O2 sensor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by quick kurt View Post
A: The stock o2 sensor only works at low rpm and throttle positions when there isn't much load on the engine,the Flashtune only disables that feature (o2). The ecu doesn't know it has "failed" because it is disabled in the ecu itself,your bike will run off of the fuel maps that are already in place. All this does is remove the o2 from changing the fuelmap while running,the o2 is only there to lean it out as much as possible for emissions reasons and mileage. Bottom line is your bike will be happy with the o2 gone and so will you. There is no need to worry about your fueling without the o2.
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

Last edited by Tad158; 07-12-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:59 PM   #13
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Q: What do the different load bias settings change?

Q: What do the different load bias settings change?
This is only for V1.xxx versions of the software. In V2.x versions of the software, there is only stock usage of the OEM O2 sensor, and the OEM O2 sensor disabled.
Quote:
A: The Load bias setting changes the switch over point where the ECU uses the O2 sensor to determine the proper fuel mixture or the TPS vs RPM map. At low TPS the ECU uses the O2 sensor to determine the proper fuel mixture. When the TPS increases beyond a preprogrammed set point the ECU will switch to using a plain TPS vs RPM table to determine the fuel mixture. Sliding the setting to 100% means that the bike is in TPS vs RPM mapped mode 100% of the time, and the O2 sensor error code is disabled. The advantage of using a non 100% setting is that you can cruise on the highway at low TPS values using the O2 sensor, and this will provide better fuel mileage. The benefit to using the 100% setting, is that you get direct fuel mapping everywhere, this is ideal for the track.
Additional Information from Gav R1:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gav R1 View Post
From what Dynojet and others have posted, O2 feedback is used when below 18% throttle AND 6000rpm (or maybe 5750rpm?) in the stock tune. And from what someone posted earlier in this thread about what Flash-Tune had told them, it seems the bias slider changes the throttle switching point between 18% and 0%. So 50% bias would be 9% throttle, 75% bias would be around 4% throttle.
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

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Old 07-15-2012, 08:35 PM   #14
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Q: What YCC-T settings should I use?

Q: What YCC-T settings should I use?

Quote:
A: The stock YCC-T map is just that, the stock restricted YCC-T TPS map(s). The stock map restricts the ETV from attaining 100% TPS (~80-85% max TPS at 100% input TPS), therefore limiting horsepower at the top end. The race YCC-T is an edited version of the stock map. The race map removes the stock TPS restrictions (100% TPS at 100% input TPS). The race map also makes the maps a little more aggressive on the slope of the map. The ECU uses this map to determine actual input TPS for all the other maps.

The stock map(s) is(are) read only. The race map(s) is(are) editable, but please be careful when editing this map. For example, if you make all the cells 100, the bike will be at WOT all the time independent of what your wrist is doing (aside from the safety retraction cable your wrist would be fighting the ETV). For obvious reasons this would be a bad result. Just use commonsense when editing the table(s).

In the case of the 09+ R1s with the different drive modes, there are three deferent maps: STD, A and B. The A mode map is basically a quick turn throttle map, with a slope of approximately 1:1.25, 100% output TPS at ~75% input TPS. The STD mode is also unrestricted but is close to linear 1:1.05, 100% output TPS at ~95% input TPS. B mode is restricted which is handy in the rain or other conditions that warrant it. B mode also has a larger flat zone so the throttle does not climb too quickly. This map is much closer to stock, but is still less restrictive than stock.
My opinion is plain WOW! This is the one of the two things that I like the most about the F-T flash the other is the engine breaking reduction. The race maps REALLY wakes up the bike.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:44 PM   #15
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Q: What YCC-I settings should I use?

Q: What YCC-I settings should I use?

Quote:
A: The YCC-I setting changes the switching point of the upper velocity stacks...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SySt View Post
Above this point the upper half of the stacks are raised effectively making the stacks shorter while below this point the upper half of the stacks are lowered making the stacks longer. Different combinations of engine components may change the optimum setting for this. For instance a full system and or head porting will almost definitely change this a little. Slip-ons and an air filter probably will not.

Bottom line: you should consult the tuners at Flash-Tune, the manufacturer of your aftermarket components or your engine builder for the optimal switch over point. If your bike is basically stock you should probably leave it at the stock setting.

For 09+: We have found that a change over point of 8,000 RPM smooths out the power and torque curve between 8k and 10k RPM with the stock stacks. This adds more area under the curve for more ...

For the V2.x software, the high point should be what ever you choose as the bike builds RPM (so for the above case of 8k change over point the high should be switched to 8000) and the low is so that the stack does not rapidly switch between up and down positions when you are cruising at 8k RPM. You should choose a value that is about about 250 RPM less than the value in the high box.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:59 PM   #16
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Q: What quick shift settings should I use?

Q: What quick shift settings should I use?

Quote:
A: Currently the best 09+ settings are found in the 3/4 system dyno tune. Flash-Tune tweaked these parameters on the dyno to produce nice smooth shifts. If you are not using the 3/4 F-T map, you can copy the values out of that map, load your map, then paste them into your map.

These are the settings for the 09+ QS. This also gives you an idea about what seetings you can change.
( I need input from 07-08 QS users for good suggestions here. )
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

Last edited by Tad158; 09-09-2012 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:21 PM   #17
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Q: How do I install the quick shifter sensor on the bike?

Q: How do I install the quick shifter sensor on the bike?

This answer is merely a guide and is only representative of how I installed a QS sensor on my own personal bike. Note: The 07-08 R1 use a different pin on the ECU than the 09+ R1.

This is how I did the install on my 09 R1:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tad158 View Post
Click on the quick shifter check box function in the software, and a little message shows up and says that you need to wire pin 27 (09-11 R1) on the ecu to the QS sensor with the other end of the sensor wired to ground. You also need to choose if your QS sensor is a normally open (NO) or a normally closed (NC) sensor. Pin 27 is an open pin on the 09 R1, it took me a little bit of hunting to finally find the numbering, I was looking on the other side of the connector

A picture for reference: (where pin 27 is clearly open)



I also discovered something else, as I was tinkering. To insert a wire you must unlock the connector by pressing in the the small white tab. You will feel the connector and wires unlock.

Next you can remove the small water proofing plug in the spot you want to install the new pin. Then, you can put you wire through the top plate, then into the connector. Then, re-lock the connector.

I went the route where I just added an ECU pin on the end of my PCV style normally closed QS sensor, and grounded the other end.

I started by taking off all plastic pieces from the left side of the bike, including the ram air tube.



I ran the sensor wire from the sensor to the ECU along the frame, and into the main wiring harness boot, and continued to run the wire along the main harness to the ECU.




The ground I used was the radiator mounting bracket. I used a extension wire to the end of the QS sensor wire (the brown wire added in the pic).

I used a spade disconnect to connect the extension to the QS wire.




I put everything back together, flashed the ECU with the 3/4 system F-T map. The QS feature is silky smooth, it is like driving an automatic now.
If you want to buy the pins for the ECU connector to crimp onto the QS sensor wire, these are the pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tad158 View Post
The connector for 09-12 ECU:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...HnvengdWcjYkMp

The Pins

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...6CT-ND/3742550

That should do it...Based on the specs and the drawings I think that those are the right parts. If you could call and confirm this with F-T, I will add it to the FAQ. I have also attached the user manual that I found for the connector.
Wondering how the QS function operates?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash-Tune
For the R1 the qs functions by emulating a rev limiter. It activates an ignition cut determined by the amount of time set in the map.
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Flash-Tune FAQ Thread

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Old 07-15-2012, 09:49 PM   #18
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Q: How do I actually flash the ECU?

Q: How do I actually flash the ECU?

These instructions are for using the bench top style F-T interface. In the V2.xxx software the full flash option should basically always be used, except under certain situations.
Quote:
A: First, you must remove the ECU from your bike, both connectors, and I find on an 09 R1 it is easiest to remove it fully from the bike. Next, you must start the software with interface plugged in, and the software verifies the hardware license (verified permanent should show up next to a green dot on the bottom left of the window). Next, choose you ECU map and adjust the various settings (detailed above) to your desires and save the file under a new name to track your tweaks. When you are ready to flash the ECU next hit the "Flash ECU" button. A message will pop up instructing you to plug in the power to the interface (battery connector or wall mount supply), plug in the power to the BNC connector. Click the "OK" button, it will start the flashing sequence and ask you to plug in the ECU connector to the ECU, plug it in now. The flashing should commence, and it will take 4-6 minutes depending on your computer.

If the flash fails for some reason, the best advice is to unplug the power to the interface, unplug the ECU from the interface, close the Flash-Tune software, unplug the interface from the USB port on the computer. Give the computer a moment to relize that the interface has been unplugged from the computer. Next plug the interface back into the computer, giving it a moment to find the interface, start the software, and begin the sequence from the beginning again. Be patient, you will get it to work.
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Last edited by Tad158; 02-17-2014 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:01 PM   #19
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Q: The software keeps saying interface not found, how do I fix this?

Q: The software keeps saying interface not found, how do I fix this?

Quote:
A: The most common reason why the interface is not found is because Windows has not properly installed the hardware. Check the device manager and verify that the interface is detected as an addition COM port. If the interface shows up as "Yamaha X.XX" under unknown hardware, the interface drivers must be reinstalled. To accomplish this, open the Flash-Tune software with the interface plugged in, click help, then repair driver. A short script should run, close the software, unplug the interface. Then retry plugging in the interface, it should now be detected as a com port. Open the software, and enjoy.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:05 PM   #20
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Q: Can I flash other bikes in the same year with the interface?

Q: Can I flash other bikes with the interface?

Quote:
A: YES, you can flash any number of bikes as long as the interface works for year and model. You can also flash your bike as many times as you would like. The interface is not permanently matched/limited to a single ECU/Bike.
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