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Old 09-20-2012, 07:22 AM   #1
drozek
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Sprocket Help / Chain Recommendations

Looking to drop -1 on my R1, what is the difference between:

520
530

?
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:38 AM   #2
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520 is thinner and lighter.

Here's some reading.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0...ing/index.html

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Old 09-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #3
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It is the pitch of the chain. In very simple terms its how chunky or big the chain is. A 520 chain is smaller and therefore lighter. Its a common conversion especially for track bikes as there is less mass which equates to less momentum in the drive train.

-1 from the front sprocket will give a far more noticable effect. More bottom end and roll on torque but small sacrifice in top end speed.

Heaps on here about it all if you search.



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Old 09-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebags View Post
520 is thinner and lighter.

Here's some reading.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0...ing/index.html

Fanks!
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:58 AM   #5
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Fanks!
No worries dude. I'm running a 520 setup with -1/stock aluminium rear and its noticeable that's for sure. Better punch off the line and gets through the rev range quicker.. and very respectable crusing rpm on the freeways.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:58 AM   #6
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How big of a weight savings are people usually seeing?

When I just put on my 520 kit I think I kept 2 more links but it weighed the same as my old beat up 530 chain. I thought it seemed kind of weird but maybe it was my crappy scale or something else.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:16 AM   #7
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From my 2004 OE 530 to a EK MVXZ 520 I lost 122g... not a lot bit its rotational mass so on another hand its quite large; DID's race chain will save more.

The biggest saving comes from the sprockets. I saved 500g/1 pound-ish switching from a 45t OE sprocket to a Renthal aluminium 45t. The front from OE to Renthal superlite -1 was around 120g.

I doubt you notice the weight of the chain or front sprocket but I sure as shit noticed the 1lb loss in the rear sprocket. Not sire what the ultra light steel rears weigh but there's good weight saving there's too if wear bothers you... I do stiff all millage each year so alu suits me.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:34 PM   #8
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Can I just change my front sprocket to t16 and leave the rear stock?


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Old 09-20-2012, 04:56 PM   #9
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Yes you can, 520 or 530 is on the chain itself to let anyone knoww what size parts are needed. I don't see any type of flashed ecu in your sig. A flashed ecu will do wonders for your power,my '12 is unbelievably stronger flashed. More so than the hp #s show.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:18 AM   #10
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-You can have an odd number front and odd number rear 6:32 PM
-Or even front and even rear 6:33 PM
-Never odd front and even rear 6:33 PM
-And you always need an even number of chain links, no matter what 6:36 PM

Is this true?
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:24 AM   #11
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Any size front or rear,doesn't matter. Chain is always even # of links.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppler View Post
It is the pitch of the chain. .
Incorrect

The 5 is the pitch (same for 520 and 530)..the 20 or 30 is the width

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppler View Post
In very simple terms its how chunky or big the chain is. A 520 chain is smaller and therefore lighter. Its a common conversion especially for track bikes as there is less mass which equates to less momentum in the drive train.

-1 from the front sprocket will give a far more noticable effect. More bottom end and roll on torque but small sacrifice in top end speed.

Heaps on here about it all if you search.



.....I type way too slow, lol.
This part is correct in that a 520 chain is thinner and therefore lighter
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drozek View Post
-You can have an odd number front and odd number rear 6:32 PM
-Or even front and even rear 6:33 PM
-Never odd front and even rear 6:33 PM
-And you always need an even number of chain links, no matter what 6:36 PM

Is this true?
No...chains end up being even # of links but the rest of that is horseshit. You can do odd #teeth in front or back and any combonation
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:37 PM   #14
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:52 PM   #15
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technically correct or not everyone still calls it the pitch...even the chain/sprocket manufacturers lol.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:31 AM   #16
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so i got a -1 in front and +2 in the rear, what is a recommended chain to use? any have any suggestions
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drozek View Post
so i got a -1 in front and +2 in the rear, what is a recommended chain to use? any have any suggestions
You can use anything from oring to xring. Try to find something with 9,000 lb tensile strength, and most importantly don't mix the numbers up. As in if you have a 520 front, make sure your rear is 520, along with your chain. Don't put 520 sprockets with a 530 chain. I'd personally stay away from eBay chains unless they are from a reputable manufacturer.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
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You can use anything from oring to xring. Try to find something with 9,000 lb tensile strength, and most importantly don't mix the numbers up. As in if you have a 520 front, make sure your rear is 520, along with your chain. Don't put 520 sprockets with a 530 chain. I'd personally stay away from eBay chains unless they are from a reputable manufacturer.
what about the chain link length?
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:08 AM   #19
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Well the stock chain length is 116 links.

So if you are doing just a -1 in the front the stock link length will work. However if you are increasing the rear I'd say find a chain with a 120. You won't need all 120 links, but in this case, it's better to have more than not enough. You can always trim the chain to the desired length. Just make sure you leave some room for adjustments to tighten the chain incase it stretches on you down the road.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:13 PM   #20
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Interesting. So if i get the driven 520 with -1 front and stock t45 the bike will have a better launch? What if i get the t47 rear, what effects will happen there?
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