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Old 01-02-2013, 08:05 AM   #1
KoC-BlocER1
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RIMS - Are they worth it?

Hey All,

I've been looking at some upgrades for my 09. I've done the suspension already and was recently looking at rims. Are they worth the $$$? Very expensive - $2500-$3500. For those who have changed them, is the weight difference, handling difference worth it? Or would you change out brakes..or something else. Bike is used mainly in canyons and trackdays.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:07 AM   #2
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Define worth it

They will noticably change the characteristics of the bike assuming you go with something light The stock wheels aren't that much heavier than a forged Al wheel so you won't notice as much change as if you go to say a Mag wheel or CF wheel.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #3
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I personally would say brakes first. To me, that is money MORE well spent.

Better put, I would say buy rims last. Big expense for little gain. Basically what z064life said.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:54 AM   #4
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I personally would say brakes first. To me, that is money MORE well spent.

Better put, I would say buy rims last. Big expense for little gain. Basically what z064life said.
I might agree with the Master cylinder to upgrade, but the stock calipers are more than capable.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:07 AM   #5
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I might agree with the Master cylinder to upgrade, but the stock calipers are more than capable.
Oh I definitely agree. Just saying I think he'll get more "bang for his buck" with brakes.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:38 AM   #6
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I am pretty hard on the brakes, but so far stock has been well. Wouldn't losing maybe 10-15lbs from the rim difference make the brakes work a little better?
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:43 AM   #7
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I am pretty hard on the brakes, but so far stock has been well. Wouldn't losing maybe 10-15lbs from the rim difference make the brakes work a little better?
Yes. acceleration will be better as well as stopping. You will get better feel from an aftermarket MC though. Your calipers will work great.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:46 AM   #8
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Ive got a set of pvm's on my gsxr race bike. They were pretty much the last thing i did to the bike. They made a big difference but they also cost a ton. I had my brakes, suspension and engine all sorted out before i got those. I wouldnt put them on a stock bike and look for gains with them. While you would see them your money would be better spent on other components first.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Ive got a set of pvm's on my gsxr race bike. They were pretty much the last thing i did to the bike. They made a big difference but they also cost a ton. I had my brakes, suspension and engine all sorted out before i got those. I wouldnt put them on a stock bike and look for gains with them. While you would see them your money would be better spent on other components first.
Get some Dymags. they go cheap now, since everyone is going with BST's
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:49 PM   #10
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Get some Dymags. they go cheap now, since everyone is going with BST's
They look really heavy though.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:08 PM   #11
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Suspension is done, engine is pretty much stock (which is fine), next year maybe full exhaust and mapping, so this year is either brakes or rims (unless I am missing something else). So..are brakes the better way to go first? Or would they both be about equal. I am leading towards rims, hoping it will maybe help the bike respond a little better, maybe a little less effort throwing it around, better acceleration/deceleration?
What is a PVM?
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:09 PM   #12
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I was looking at the OZ rims..
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoC-BlocER1 View Post
Suspension is done, engine is pretty much stock (which is fine), next year maybe full exhaust and mapping, so this year is either brakes or rims (unless I am missing something else). So..are brakes the better way to go first? Or would they both be about equal. I am leading towards rims, hoping it will maybe help the bike respond a little better, maybe a little less effort throwing it around, better acceleration/deceleration?
What is a PVM?
PVM is a rim company. They are just one of the few i would trust to buy from.
http://www.pvm.de/w1/en/index.html

Im not sure what your looking at for brakes but it shouldnt be a ton of money to do it. Stock setup is pretty good. Some new lines and your almost done. I use ebc HH pads on my race bike with radial fronts, brembo master, braided lines and floating rotors. Thats about as hard core as you can get and its not much money. On the r1 id skip the full floaters and keep oem calipers, probably skip the new master too. Maybe pads and lines and you should have fantastic stopping power.
You can kind of feel the rims everywere. I had to redo all my suspension settings and changed the angle of my clipons to compansate for the flighty front end i had after i put them on. Everything was pretty much improved. One thing i will warn about getting aftermarket rims is make sure you can get sprockets easily. I have a few friends with rims that take many, many weeks to get sprockets in so they buy in bulk. When i first got my pvm they were new to this country and it took a few months to get them, now i can have them tomorrow but it did screw me abit in the beginning.
You should also plan on getting new bearings with the rims. Id go ceramic but they are pricey. I never really noticed the difference on the street or track even since i did them with a few other thing but i definately noticed them when i would stunt the bike. When i would do rolling stoppies on normal bearings i would roll maybe a hundred feet and i was really trying, after the ceramic that distance doubled and then some. It actually scared me the first time i did one because i didnt think it would make a difference. Having the bike on the stand and spinning them by hand they go much, much longer and are smoother too.

What have you done to your suspension?

Im also not a fan of any real engine work but bolt-ons should be done before the rims. Things like exhaust and tuning will net bigger gains than the rims. If it was my r1 and i was in your shoes with your bike id be looking into easy bolt-ons and as much weight reduction as is affordable and easy. The key to these r1's is to get the curb weight down. Rims help but there are things to do before hand. Exhaust can be almost 20 lbs just by itself. A nice light battery can be another 10lbs or more. You really want to try to get to as close to the other liter class bikes as you can in both power and weight before going for big ticket items.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:43 PM   #14
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i seriously doubt 2-3lbs savings will have any significant effect at all on a modern sport-bike... as Z06 pointed out... you'll only see any improvements if you go CF or mags {sorry z06! }..


i would like to have nicer looking rims than stockers but it will be close to the last thing i do on this bike... \
suspension and exhaust management is all done, HEL SS lines & Carbone Lorraine handle brakes nicely... headwork will probably fall in line with the wheels, way down the line...
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:50 PM   #15
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i seriously doubt 2-3lbs savings will have any significant effect at all on a modern sport-bike... as Z06 pointed out... you'll only see any improvements if you go CF or TI..


i would like to have nicer looking rims than stockers but it will be close to the last thing i do on this bike... \
suspension and exhaust management is all done, HEL SS lines & Carbone Lorraine handle brakes nicely... headwork will probably fall in line with the wheels, way down the line...
Mag not Ti
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:50 PM   #16
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They look really heavy though.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:52 PM   #17
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Yeah, I'm trying to lose some weight and add better performance and feel. I replaced fork internals with Ohlins, rear Ohilns TTX and so far it feels pretty good. I have braided lines coming in and already have more aggresive pads than stock, that's it for the brake section.
Good points on the rims. I have already done a 520 DID conversion last year and don't want to have to redo anything by adding new rims. I am just hoping to buy them and bearing, slap-on my sprocket and go.

It's not a track bike, but maybe in a few more years it will be. I do have GYTR slipons, and plan to do a full system maybe next year. The next 3 things I plan are: RIMS, Brakes and PIPE. Just unsure it what order. By this time next year I plan to have all 3 done. No matter what you do..its a lot of $$$
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:54 PM   #18
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From what I have read..it appears wheels can save maybe 10-15lbs. That's not bad.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:54 PM   #19
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Mag not Ti
oops.. must be drunk!! hahhaha...
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CLEVER WOLF tank CF, RIZOMA sportline grips, APEX adj. clip-ons, CRG Arrows, GYTR seat, SHOGUN no-cut, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK, CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoC-BlocER1 View Post
Yeah, I'm trying to lose some weight and add better performance and feel. I replaced fork internals with Ohlins, rear Ohilns TTX and so far it feels pretty good. I have braided lines coming in and already have more aggresive pads than stock, that's it for the brake section.
Good points on the rims. I have already done a 520 DID conversion last year and don't want to have to redo anything by adding new rims. I am just hoping to buy them and bearing, slap-on my sprocket and go.

It's not a track bike, but maybe in a few more years it will be. I do have GYTR slipons, and plan to do a full system maybe next year. The next 3 things I plan are: RIMS, Brakes and PIPE. Just unsure it what order. By this time next year I plan to have all 3 done. No matter what you do..its a lot of $$$
You'll need a different rear sprocket for most. pattern is different than yamaha stock
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