what weight oil should i use? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
Oil and Lubrication For discussion on oil and lubrication

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post #1 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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what weight oil should i use?

looking to get some full synthetic for my next oil change. just wondering which weight is best for warm weather climates(south florida). my choices are 10w40 or 5w40. i'm thinking 5w40 might be too light, but thought i'd ask the experts.
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post #2 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 09:44 AM
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10w-40.



You should have at least a couple of thousand miles on the engine before going to syn.
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post #3 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early?
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post #4 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnole23 View Post
i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early?
Did my change to syn at 1,500 that should be fine...others might disagree...I use Mobil 1 15/50.. summer temps 80/90...winter 10/40
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post #5 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-27-2008, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnole23 View Post
i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early?
The engine will not be harmed even if you were to fill it with synthetic the first day you had the bike.

It will simply take a little longer than normal to break it in.
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post #6 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-10-2008, 09:24 PM
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does anyone use 20w50 oil? I ran it in one of my older bikes and seemed to shift smoother and run alittle better when it was hot as hell out side.

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post #7 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-10-2008, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRossi View Post
does anyone use 20w50 oil? I ran it in one of my older bikes and seemed to shift smoother and run alittle better when it was hot as hell out side.
That is some pretty thick stuff. I personally would not use it unless racing in high temps. Older machines had bigger tolerances.


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post #8 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 10:44 AM
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It about to start gettin hot and humid here in nc and when I get stuck in my back and forth to work triffic the bike stay above 200oF

"Nitrous, its like a hot girl with STDs. You wanna hit it but your afraid of the consequences"


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post #9 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRossi View Post
It about to start gettin hot and humid here in nc and when I get stuck in my back and forth to work triffic the bike stay above 200oF
Yes, it is. I do realize that

I still would not go into the 20W-50 range. That's just me. And I do take the bike to the track.


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post #10 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 02:25 PM
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sounds good. I didn't even realize you were in NC also.

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post #11 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRossi View Post
sounds good. I didn't even realize you were in NC also.
It's all good.

Should be fine with a quality 10W 40. Even 15W 40. But 20W 50 is thick stuff for a tight tolerance motor. More important is frequent changes.


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post #12 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 10:01 PM
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I was thumbing through my owners manuel earlier for the heck of it and it said you can use 20w40. Ever tried it at all

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post #13 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yankin&bankin View Post

The engine will not be harmed even if you were to fill it with synthetic the first day you had the bike.

It will simply take a little longer than normal to break it in.


The rings typically seat themselves within the first couple of hours of an engines life. The first handfull of miles can be a deciding factor in overall performance of an engine. If you don't get the rings to seat within this small window, you may not get a perfect seal resulting in slightly lower compression and power.





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post #14 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanQ View Post
It's all good.

Should be fine with a quality 10W 40. Even 15W 40. But 20W 50 is thick stuff for a tight tolerance motor. More important is frequent changes.
Do u mean high reving bike?


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post #15 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectR1 View Post
Do u mean high reving bike?
Tolerences between the surfaces inside the motor. Motors are being built with much closer specifications than, say, ten years ago.


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post #16 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 12:44 PM
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Ducati's, Ferrari's, MB's, BMW's are all delivered and spec'd with Syn of the factory, fwiw.

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post #17 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 09:15 PM
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IF anyone has noticed, Yamalube has stopped offering 10w30 & 20w40.

Now, they offer 10w40 & 20w50.


I have a 2007 R1, purchased new in December 2006. It now has >18,000 miles.

I've noticed that it has a smoother and more stable idle with 20w50, and shifts better. However, it seems to me that it revs a little quicker and is slightly more responsive with the 10w40.

Nevertheless, it gets miserably hot here in Memphis in the summer, and, I confess, I ride the bike very hard.

So, I use 20w50 starting around this time of year.
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post #18 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-15-2008, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnole23 View Post
i have almost 1100 now, i was going to do it around 1500 or so. to early?
I have nearly 7k track miles on my track r1 and it has had R4 superbike oil since about 1mile on the bike and it makes right at 185whp with no signs of giving up. Go synthetic now its good stuff, and the thinner R4 makes about 3 more whp.
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post #19 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-21-2008, 12:36 AM
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It Was 104 Temp Yesterday Outside, Around Here If I Run The Thin Stuff The Top End And Clutch Make Alot Of Noise.

So I Stick With 20 -50

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post #20 of 126 (permalink) Old 05-22-2008, 02:49 PM
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10w-40 is fine.
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