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09 Clutch problem

102K views 427 replies 108 participants last post by  RSA ghost rider 
#1 · (Edited)
I've just had the first service done on my 09 R1. The clutch is now slipping with pull away in 1st gear. It's especially bad when the bike is cold and gradually gets better when the bike warms up but it doesn't completely go away. Yamalube 20W40 oil was used. The dealer will be checking it out on tuesday. Anyone else experience this problem?
 
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#76 ·
Well it all in how you ride it. I road my last bike 40,000 miles before i changed my clutch. I races with it, rode canyons, drag races, and clutched up a ton of wheelies. People give bike zero credit when it come to what they can take. If you keep thing adjusted properly they will last along time. But you also have to know what your doing when you launch a bike. But clutch's are like 100-150 to replace so replace it when you feel its needed. Also remember to replace your clutch springs.
 
#77 ·
I keep hearing over and over that the clutch on the r1 is extremely weak. One magazine claimed they got about 3 launches at the dragstrip before the clutch was toast, trying to test 1/4 mile numbers. I've read similar stories on people who took their R1 to the strip. And again, a local racer who races an 06 R1 is always complaining about the clutch plates shattering.
 
#78 ·
Graves Clutch Mod Miracle!!!!

I am so happy!!!!! I got my clutch mod installed from Weston at Graves Motorsports and my 2009 R1 is a completely new bike!!!!!

I can't believe what a huge HUGE difference this mod has made. My clutch is now super smooth and hasn't made any funky grinding sounds since.

I can launch ballistic now with complete confidence in it.

I had the slipper settings adjusted loose also, so there is virtually no engine brake. Wow, talk about fun into the turns.

so very happy.... SO VERY HAAAPPY!-)
 
#79 ·
Damn that's great to hear!! Thank you for the feedback... This will def be a mod I have to do after I put on a few more miles. How many miles are you at? Did you install I yourself? What did it cost you?
 
#81 ·
I have about 15K on mine, and had a shop do the work... South Valley in Utah (recommended by Weston at Graves). They did a great job. cost = $150.00.

I also had the YEC lock nut installed and the slipper is loose which makes for almost no engine brake... very fast into turns;-)
 
#84 ·
^^^ every single one my my R1's has had the clunk into first gear. Never had a problem with any clutches untill this one now... its kinda scary...especially after I went to the car wash yesterday, got out put it in gear and It went into almost like a false neutral.... even the neutral light was on but very dim... it was very strange. Bike only has about 1800 miles so I'm thinking tranny not fully broken in. Hasn't done it since.
 
#87 ·
I'm bringing this back to see if anyone else installed this kit yet? I'd like to get this kit, but also want to see if the dealer will replace the clutch under warranty first. I realize the clutch is a wearable item, but the sudden jolting and grabbing is downright dangerous, and it's almost got me killed once.
 
#92 ·
I also just noticed my clutch doing the same. Looks like I am getting the mod cant wait!
 
#94 ·
Nice I also ordered one today! The count down begins!
 
#100 ·
Well I got bored a couple days ago because it been raining like crazy here lately so I installed the graves kit to fix the clutch. All I have to say is, I can't believe how big of a diff it makes. Bike is soo much more enjoyable to ride. Launches like it should from factory. I love riding in A mode now as it is way smoother during take off because the clutch just HOLDS!!!

I took a lot of iphone pix, hope they turn out half decent as I'm planning to write up a how to on it this weekend....

Fairly easy install (knock on wood)... Thanks to Graves for coming out with this great fix! :beer
 
#106 ·
I'm not trying to bag on you Weston, but why no clutch cover gasket it's only $8.00 your cost. You would still be coming out ahead if you did have that in the kit at $150.00. Plus I am sure that Yamaha hooks you guy's up really well on parts better than any dealer can get. Just something to maybe think about to put in there as well. Hell you might as well that way it is a full install kit without having to go to the shop for anything.

But hey that's just my two sense on the subject.
 
#110 ·
Ya I don't know it might be. Just from my past experience it is always best to replace it with a new one if it is paper, now if it was metal ya I wouldn't even be worried about it at all. The thing is with the paper gaskets they have the paper witch is the gasket part then they have a plastic coating on it to not let the oil get into the paper and acts as a hardener then have a small strip of clear glue on them. The way they are made is once any heat is put onto it all three act as a bonding agent, the paper stiffens up, the plastic coating does two things 1. makes it so oil don't get into the paper and 2. helps make it solid and stiff, the glue part is so you have a sure seal to the metal. Now when you take that off of the bonding surface it has made now, parts of the gasket will stick to the metal and come off or tear, now this opens up the paper part of the gasket to the oil, then the paper acts as a sponge and then in turn starts to leak. I mean you can always put gasket sealer on there as well when you re-install it but that just makes a mess and you can always tell you put it there. Lol I guess it don't help a bit being a neat freak as well lol. But anyways that's why I would want to put a new one on, so the old saying goes if your going to do it might as well do it right the first time :).
 
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