So ive had my flashed ecu for 2 years with no problems. After i installed my bazzaz Zfitc the bike ran for about 5 mins then shut off. I tripple checked everything and it was good but still wouldnt start. I took the bazzaz off the bike and brought it back to stock connections and still wouldnt start. Error code 40 meaning secondary fuel injectors. The bike is getting spark because it was running when id spary gas down the throttle bodies, its just not getting fuel. I took my ecu off and put it on a friends stock 09 r1 and his bike threw a code 40 and wouldnt start, could this be the pins in the harness not switched? (with the ecunleashed you need to swap 4 pins in the main harness plug). Im going to send my ecu back to jett on monday and see what they say. I just dont understand how installing a bazzaz could fry my ecu, i did buy it used from edr so it may have a broken wire somewhere but still shouldnt this blow a fuse before the ecu? Anyone with any info would be great. Round 1 of racing is on the 26th of may so i need to sort this out asap
Ok then either configure your wiring to be setup for the US Flash Tune or convert it back to Canadian/UK and Reflash it again.
I don't know why your not able to get into Diagnostic with the Immoboliser unplugged something is wrong with that which could be the wiring setup from what I can think of.
I don't know how much of an impact not having all the 12 wires switched around would have but it needs to be done for some reason so this could be causing a problem.
Try it out and let me know.
This is the Wiring Diagram for the Flash Tune US spec. Difference between this and the ECUnleashed is that on the Bottom row of the larger connector #10 and #11 the Brown/Yellow and Brown/Black need to be switched
I am getting into diag mode. I didnt try what jamie said about holding the reset and select buttons again when im in diag, ill try that when i get home. And ill be switching the 2 pins
Oh ok I guess I didn't notice you mentioned that. Ya when you get into Diagnostic (holding Select and Reset for like 15secs) you let go then hold Select and Reset for a few more secs until it goes to D1:01 and that's when you know your in Diagnostic them press Select to flip thought everything.
- Hold down Select and Reset for 15 secs
- Once Diagnostic appears let go
- Hold Down Select and Reset for about 3 secs until D1:01 appears that's when you in it
- Press Select and go to Erase your code by flipping Kill Switch until Engine light blinks 3 times
Jamie did you say you fixed one with a code40? I remember you saying you had two fix and if i sent you my ecu, you could do a different fix on both and see which one worked.. Maybe i used the wrong fix?
Jamie did you say you fixed one with a code40? I remember you saying you had two fix and if i sent you my ecu, you could do a different fix on both and see which one worked.. Maybe i used the wrong fix?
We were assuming code 40 (secondary injector problem) was the same issue as code 39 (primary injector problem). I was just going to flash one ECU as USA spec and one ecu as CANADAIAN spec just so it didn't matter which wiring you have, one of them would hopefully work.
Triple check all the wires in your wiring harness is like the picture above, flash as US spec wiring, give it a go.
Nice work, so what was the final trick? Going into diag mode and running the injector tests, switching the wiring hardness pinout back to stock USA spec, or clearing codes with D62/D63/cycle kill switch?
Of course it's running very rich that's the reason why you got the code and same reason why my friend got it on his. The ECU does not dry that easily and will shut down, throw codes, before getting to that point. All these people who had these type of problems had the same issue it wasnt a fried ECU and they cost themselves a lot of money replacing it when it was an easy fix.
Long explanation but running the bike rich is what threw the code because there was too much fuel going through the injectors and that particular injector related to that code happened to be the one that faulted first.
Get rid of the fuel map you have running on it or you will get that code again. Find a good tuner.
The bike is running rich now because i took the bazzaz off. Before it was dyno tuned and running perfect so that wasnt the problem. Im sending the bazzaz back to get tested so hopefully its faulty
Good to know and now your all set to race this weekend
When you send your Bazzaz in send the harness along with it so they can inspect it. I have heard that there is a problem with the connectors being too short and/or faulty.
What kind of map did you have on the ECU Flash that was tuned with the Bazzaz?
What you could do for your race is pull the Fuel Map off your Bazzaz and dump it into the ECU. Its very simple and will get you racing this weekend and running perfect.
If there is No Fuel Map in the ECU then you could just easily dump in the Bazzaz. If there was a Fuel Map in the ECu then you would just need to some math and enter the values in and you will have yourself a custom tune straight onto your ECU.
Whatever Map was on the ECU you would keep and then add the values from the Bazzaz. If there was a Blank Fuel map in the ECU when it was tuned then you would just add the values from the Bazzaz.
Weekend was good. Took first in saturday and sunday superbike races. Had dome bad luck in the sportbike races, wont the first one but was told i jumped the start so i lost 3 positions and fvckin ran outta gas in the second one lol happens to everyone once :crash
Weekend was good. Took first in saturday and sunday superbike races. Had dome bad luck in the sportbike races, wont the first one but was told i jumped the start so i lost 3 positions and fvckin ran outta gas in the second one lol happens to everyone once :crash
Okay guys. I just installed a LEO Vince FAST ii box and I got the error 40 code about 5 minutes into a ride. Bike won't start. No flash tune on the ECU.
I can get into diag mode. What should I do?
Do I disconnect the LEO and clear the code, then the bike will start? I am really hoping I don't have to buy another ECU.
Thanks. I will try it shortly and let you know if it starts. What's interesting is that the FAST box is supposed to turn itself off if there are any system anomalies.
Ship it to Jamie and he will get it fixed for you. Since your travelling a lot your not going to be doing much riding so the down time wont really bother you.
Before an ECU gets damaged it throws a code or shuts down, I don't know how you can fry it by the examples given in this thread.
I think people assumed it was fried and had to get new ones but if it fries then it is totally gone meaning you get no power to the bike or anything just like blowing your main fuse
Everyone panics and thinks they fried their ECU but first of all its not that easy to fry them as there are things put in place to prevent that, i.e Error Codes, Fuses....
The beginning of this thread instantly makes you scared when this happens to you. I started reading and I was like "o f***". After getting a few pages in, I realized it is probably an easy fix. You should do a short write up and get it stickied.
Bravo on the research and follow through.
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