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2009 R1 motor problem?

25K views 158 replies 16 participants last post by  NoxImus 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I have a 2009 r1 with about 9500 miles on it. Oil was changed about 2000 miles ago and is 20-50 yamalube. No real big prior problems. I was recently riding with a friend on some back road twisties when we both heard a strange clacking noise. My engine started loosing power, and died. When I restarted the bike I heard a loud clacking noise (which sounded like it came from the the cam chain) and sounded like a piston wasn't firing. I was able to get a friend to bring it to my house and I disassembled it to check spark plugs and compression. It seems the 4th cylinder had sub par compression. I will be doing a Leak down test tomorrow. Bike had updated Yamaha CCT, and no weird noises, this just randomly happened. Any ideas of why? Any thing else I should check?
 
#97 ·
Thanks man! A lot of time and work, but I really liked this bike so it was worth it. Also learned alot which is always a good thing. Hope someone can learn from my mistakes and possibly stop from having to go through what I did. Couldn't have done it without the help of this forum.:beer
 
#100 ·
If you read carefully and watch the video you can tell why the tension things are the way they are.... he did not know it was engine damge and was riding this bike all around clanking even taking it high rpms.. the way that clutch came out and that 6 r1 I seen here at the business with the very same problem I can say the clutch is the responsible one and all the engine damage is from him test riding this instead of stoping it right away

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#111 ·
Its the 'weep hole' for the oil/water pump, it 'weeps' from the oil pan hole, so you know when either the oil or water pump is leaking. Could even just be the O-rings on each end of the tube, I would buy new O-rings and possibly a new or used oil/water pump too. Its not that big of a deal, you're experienced enough to repair it easily I would imagine.
 
#106 ·
I read and watched, and fully understand what you're saying went wrong. If clutch 'junk' is to blame for the failure, then late/lack of oil changes are to blame as well IMO, otherwise I would have destroyed numerous engines by now.........My proof/examples of this have 120k+ miles, 30+ clutches and zero engine failures here. And well over 5k+ drag strip passes !
 
#114 ·
The o-rings just seal each end of the tube, one to the pump, one to the oil pan. Doesn't necessarily mean the pump is bad though, could just be the O-rings leaking at either end of the tube. After pulling an engine out and apart, this should be cake for you EDDAKA don't sweat it bud.
 
#117 · (Edited)
here is some info... of in case it does start leacking water... i seen this happen after they touch the pump... here is what taken apart looks like on the turbo looking side.. i cant find my impauler to show you that.. but if you leack water....
this is take apart

this is your water seal this should be smooth like glass because this presses against the ceramic to make a seal

and this is your ceramic part that preses on your black seal... if you leack water... here alot of people replace that ceramic and the seal... us as dealer we can cover warranty on MC GYVER fixes so we replace entire thing


now buddy DO YOU HAVE BOTH O-RINGS??? is it oil or water?? lol u need to be sure first do you have both o rings on each side of the tube and #2 whats the status of the o-rings??.... was there water in the oil?? answer these please
 
#118 ·
Like cr2011r1 said, you definitely don't want to mess with trying to repair the oil/water pump, just replace the whole assy. , but it could just be the O-rings leaking. It is a combined oil pump & water pump in one unit, one half does water the other half oil. They have been like this since the first R1, luckily I have never had that problem.
 
#119 ·
now buddy DO YOU HAVE BOTH O-RINGS??? is it oil or water?? lol u need to be sure first do you have both o rings on each side of the tube and #2 whats the status of the o-rings??.... #3 was there water in the oil?? answer these please

lol i sound like tech support at microsoft or something...
 
#121 ·
lol i sound like tech support at microsoft or something...
Haha, I know the feeling. Now use your best Koothrapalli voice from Big Bang Theory, and repeat :ncont:
 
#124 ·
O-rings might not be visibly damaged, but if they are that's probably a good sign, and the pump could be good still. He was showing where the leak was coming from with his other engines oil pan cr2011r1, not the current leaking one.
 
#127 ·
Its 2 am here, thanks cr2011r1 catch you later.
 
#128 ·
"On the Gen 1 FZ1/R1, this relief hole is primarily intended to relieve any coolant that leaks past the waterpump input shaft seal, but it will also relieve any oil that gets past the oil pump shaft seal. Both the oil pump and water pump operate on the same shaft. This relief hole drains away any fluid, oil or coolant, that migrates along the shaft between the two pump seals. This relief hole in the bottom of the pan is connected to this cavity between the oil/water pump seals by way of a small metal tube with o-rings on each end to seal it to the pan and the oil/water pump assembly. If you are leaking oil out of this hole, I bet the o-ring that seals the relief pipe to the oil pan is leaking rather than the oil pump seal....its got to be the o rings. ...I have had this problem as well
 
#129 ·
Yep, been that way since the first R1 and are still the same.
 
#130 ·
Just a little hint for you all regarding the "tell tale hole" on a waterpump housing for any of your vehicles.
Sometimes a repetative problem can be a result of foreign impurities going "in the hole" and taking out the shaft and seals from the ambient pressure area which is open to the atmosphere. (ie: often dirt and debris are in the housing on ATV's or Motocross/Offroad bikes when these seals fail.
Street bikes sometimes look to be corrosion issue similar to detergent etc. but for the most part don't have as harsh of an environment as their offroad counterparts.)

A little "Tech Tip" on this trouble over the years I've seen from most of the manufacturers which applies to most of this style of telltale hole was to take a swipe of high temp grease and plug the hole. This will keep junk from going up and in between the impeller shaft, oil and water seals and cause premature damage and failures.
When those seals do wear and fail the grease will wash out with either the hot coolant or oil allowing your vehicle to "Tell the Tale" of which seal is leaking and needs your attention (water side or oil side).

But don't "silicone or glue it closed", USE grease... it will move and allow the hole to open if it has to.....
From fz1
 
#131 ·
That's a great tip , I like it !
 
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