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2009 R1 motor problem?

25K views 158 replies 16 participants last post by  NoxImus 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I have a 2009 r1 with about 9500 miles on it. Oil was changed about 2000 miles ago and is 20-50 yamalube. No real big prior problems. I was recently riding with a friend on some back road twisties when we both heard a strange clacking noise. My engine started loosing power, and died. When I restarted the bike I heard a loud clacking noise (which sounded like it came from the the cam chain) and sounded like a piston wasn't firing. I was able to get a friend to bring it to my house and I disassembled it to check spark plugs and compression. It seems the 4th cylinder had sub par compression. I will be doing a Leak down test tomorrow. Bike had updated Yamaha CCT, and no weird noises, this just randomly happened. Any ideas of why? Any thing else I should check?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Clacking noise jeje I have this problem here all the time has the bike ever been raced or clutch been riden on a way its not suposed to? These bike dont skip timing so eassy but they have a serious lubrication problem when people try to drag race these or wear the clutch out alot it throws fine shavings into the oil they stay in your oil pan after an oil change after a good build up it throws the particles into the rods and usualy the bike spins a bearing very eassy..out of 10 I sold in 2010 4 came back spun bearing from this problem.
P.s Loud clacking dude take out the oil and go throu it with your fingers if u fine shavings you spun a bearing


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#6 ·
I mean I ride my R1 because it's a sport bike, and therefore I ride the hell out of it. I don't think I'm so hard that I'm destroying the clutch or anything. That seems like a real shitty design flaw there. What bearing are you referring too?

I was given some advice from some Yamaha techs to throw some Yamaha "ring free" in the gas, and see if it'd break free any corrorosion or other crap causing bad compression. I started the bike up, and recorded a video. You can here that loud clacking/whatever noise issue. It didn't seem to run poor, per say, but it got even louder at higher RPM's. I threw the bike back together (that's why its hard to start)

(video on photobucket)



Any ideas, thoughts?
 
#7 · (Edited)
yup shes knocking for sure... you spun a ROD BEARING... DO NOT START YOUR BIKE ANYMORE YOU'LL NEED A NEW CRANK.. take out the oil like and i said and check it... the louder it gets as you drive it the more damage your doing and ull end up needing a new engine like me... did it get louder everytime u rode it?
 
#9 · (Edited)
i would say start by the eassy part and take out the oil first right sharan? to check for shavings... but from all the cases i seen here i can clearly hear the engine knocking specialy when you point the camara in between the clutch cover... and if it got louder everytime then bad news.. cam chain tensioner usualy the noise goes away when it's on operating engine temp... and u say u ride the bike at high rpm is the tensioner was bad at high rpm it would skip alot of teeth take out the oil man thats something very fast to do and we'll go from there
 
#10 ·
Yepp, you are absolutely right! Take out the oil and watch carefully if there are any metal particles in the oil. Check also the inside of the oil filter just to be sure. The best would be to take off the oil pan and inspect it carefully. Metal particles in the oil/oil pan may mean bad news...

Good luck!
 
#12 ·
Hopefully it's not the worst case, being a spun bearing. Great advice as far as troubleshooting goes. DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT run that engine until you further investigate as you are only going to do more damage :fact

G/L and keep us updated with your troubleshooting progress. There are many guys here on this forum that have split this engine and have some valuable knowledge to share :thumbup
 
#22 · (Edited)
Sorry it took me so long

What a bitch.




Look at the oil pump!!!
Sorry to see man! This means trouble!

There is only one way to go. Strip down the bike and take out engine.
You have to open up the engine. Take pictures and post them here on the forum. If in doubt ask questions, as iGoldeneye mentioned; there are many on the forum who can help/guide you in the process.

Edit: Do you have a R1 09-11 servicemanual? The manual will be your best friend in the strip down process. Let us know if you don't have it.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Where these metal parts comes from is what you have to find out by opening the engine. It can be from anywhere; journal bearings, piston, rods, crank, cams, gearbox etc

You have no other option than taking out the engine, open it and find the cause.

Edit: I don't think the problem is mainly the clutch. The sound in your your video was located around cylinder #4/crank/cam/valves. Most likely the problem is in that region. Anyway; we will all be guessing. You will get the answer when you open up the engine.

Chapter 5 in the Servicemanual will become mandatory reading for you before you go to sleep every night.
 
#25 ·
What a pain. This bike was already laid down and needs a new lower crank case, so I'm debating buying an engine off eBay instead of spending a crap ton of money and time fixing this one. (If everything major is salvageable ie crank shaft, cylinder, piston, etc)

I appreciate all the help guys, I was able to figure out a cause pretty quickly. Now I have to decide if it's worth it to find a "why".
 
#26 ·
What a pain. This bike was already laid down and needs a new lower crank case, so I'm debating buying an engine off eBay instead of spending a crap ton of money and time fixing this one. (If everything major is salvageable ie crank shaft, cylinder, piston, etc)

I appreciate all the help guys, I was able to figure out a cause pretty quickly. Now I have to decide if it's worth it to find a "why".
Is the lower crankcase damaged?

You cannot replace just one part of the crankcase!! You have to change both. The reason is that both crankcase parts are "matched" and "numbered". There are some numbers on the crankcase; these numbers is parts of a equation to determine the proper crank and balancer shaft bearings! By replacing just one part of the crankcase you will cause problems for proper clearance! NOT RECOMMENDED!

Most likely it will be cheaper for you to buy a used engine on eBay or on this forum! You can use your existing engine as sparepart engine. Do a search on "Parts for Sale" section in the forum.
 
#29 ·
i just looked very good at the pictures... bike rode... so no transmision, i can almost bet $$$ is was piston rod #3 4 out 10 sold my me came it with #3 and another client who bought his in the u.s was#3 mines was rod #2 but i had oil pump failure and like 2 more out of dealer clients was also rod #2 and we had a case that did not count the guy came in at 500klm check up and oil change and no one put oil back in the bike and that was also #2 but he made it pretty far... the service manual will not help you take this apart if you dont know what u are doing... but something simple... if you can take off the cylinder head you will know if u need to put it in the trash or not because you can see the cylinder walls with the head off and also if any piston touched the valves also take out the cams and see if they are scratched and also the part of the head where the cams spins y find deep scratches in there dont even go any further....the only thing good in my engine was head and cams... and it happened to me at high rpm and i stop my bike right away but was oilpump failure... i replaced mines with a used one... that an expensive part you will NEED BRAND NEW to fix this engine and def need a crank and a rod because the gold shavings those are piston rod particles
 
#37 ·
So cam tensioner is chewed to shit.
Can you please take some more photo's of the cam tentioner, cylinder, pistons and rods?

Maybe you have been lucky with damages...?

You wrote in your first posting: " Bike had updated Yamaha CCT".
Anything that could have gone wrong when they changed the CCT?

Edit: Please also try to get better focus (maybe it help to turn the blitz off) on the inside of cylinder jug.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I need to see the rods bearings thats where your shavings came from and ur crank.. look at my pictures of my pistons rods where they connect to your crank there is a thin sheet of metal those are the bearings take a picture just like I did disconect the piston rods from the crank and show me the insides and also close ups of ur crank there the piston rods would connect to
P.s I can see from the pics of cylinders it was rod 3 like I said that knocked
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