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Power Loss....Need Help

11K views 181 replies 17 participants last post by  larryg 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok. I had my ECU flashed and the bike was running wonderfully. I recently just got my bike back after having the Graves Clutch Kit and Graves CCT installed.

The Issue: I noticed immediately that the bike wants to jerk in 1st with the clutch lever completely pulled in. The mechanic told me my clutch lever was too tight and that he had adjusted it. I new it wasn't right so readjusted it myself and it was riding fine after that.

The ride home was great. The next day (today) it was riding great also until I parked it shut it off and then started it back up again in about 5 minutes. On my way to Cycle Gear, I immediately noticed a loss of power.

The bike revs high but doesn't seem to be pulling like it was with the ECU Flash.

I've also noticed that when I launch from 1st and then click up to 2nd, it goes to neutral instead. And I NEVER miss shift.

I've also noticed that shifting down into 1st from neutral while holding the clutch is really hard.

Any ideas?

My bike was riding like a dream and then all of a sudden I have a power loss. I've check for fuel line kinks already. And just to let you all know, I never beat on it (burnouts, clutch wheelies, etc.).

:dunno

Mods that I have:

Graves 3/4 system (no 02 sensor)
Graves Clutch Kit
Graves YEC Springs
Flashed ECU
PC5 (removed after 2 short rides prior to the power loss)
 
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#3 ·
So the thick hose that runs along the bottom of the tank it just insulating the actual fuel line?

And is there anything else that could be wrong? Bike idles fine and no unusual noise other than the "Yamaha Tick" that I've always heard from my bike and other R1's I've rode with in the past.
 
#8 · (Edited)
It sounds like you may have pulled too much slack out of the clutch. This will result in the clutch overheating and slipping, especially in higher RPMs. Does the bike seem to go through the gears faster than usual at full throttle?

The bike jerking in first and such is typically from having too little slack pulled from the clutch.

Z06 has a point also, we always suggest replacing the crappy plastic (rubber coated) fuel line with high pressure FI hose. One of our bikes had all fuel maxed on the dyno and was putting out around 150hp with full exhaust and velocity stacks until we replaced the fuel line, then we could tune properly and power jumped by 19.7hp.
 
#22 ·
I adjusted the clutch some more and rode it to test it. It's still riding the same. It almost feel like its riding the way it was before the flash.

I did have a Power Commander on it that I took off yesterday and it still had the power from the flash for a couple of rides. Then later that day is when I experienced the power loss. Thats why I was thinking pinched fuel line because I had to lift the tank to remove the Power Commander.

Please. Anybody. Help me with this. It would be much appreciated. And thank all who replied thus far.

This is a picture of my clutch free play.

 
#23 · (Edited)
It very well could be the fuel line, it's extremely easy to kink them. But if the bike is ripping through the gears without accelerating, that's clutch slippage, it sounded like that's what you were describing. If that was the case and you rode like this for a while, it could burn the plates up pretty quickly. That would cause the issue to remain until they were replaced. I'd replace the fuel line either way, it's just good insurance.

We do run a little more slack than that, but I would think you'd be OK where you are.
 
#26 ·
Is it just a coincidence that it was riding just fine at one point then a shut the engine of and cranked it back up within a minute to ride again and thats when I noticed the power loss?

I hope its only the clutch. Thats not too expensive but yet still an expense.

I'm assuming I'll have to purchase the Graves Clutch Kit again.
 
#27 ·
Make sure to soak the new fiber plates before installation!
Causes grabbing & sticking problems if not oiled.
Sounds like it was dry to start off with and then you burned the clutch pack because it was incorrcely adjusted.
Pull the clutch pack out and post pix.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Not a bad idea... At a minium change the oil

Out of interest look for last steel in the pack when u pull it. Note orientation. Dished up or down. Graves has a good video on it.
"SPRING, CLUTCH BOSS" (dished shaped steel ring)
Its half the size of the others. It forms part of the updated parts you had added to fix your grabby clutch!
If the spring was installed upside down it may have caused some of the issues your having.
 
#32 ·
No need to drop the pan or the oil.

Out of interest look for last steel in the pack when u pull it. Note orientation. Dished up or down. Graves has a good video on it.
"SPRING, CLUTCH BOSS" (dished shaped steel ring)
Its half the size of the others. It forms part of the updated parts you had added to fix your grabby clutch!
If the spring was installed upside down it may caused some of the issues your having.
Although.....

If the oil is contaminated you may want to drop the pan and the oil.

Depends how bad it is.
I am going to replace the oil regardless. I'll buy 5 quarts of Amsoil and soak the plates in the 5th quart.

I'll also buy another Graves Clutch Kit. And yes, I knew about the ring and its orientation.

Thank you very much.
 
#44 ·
How's the rest of steel's and friction's look?
That pic doesn't look that bad. I thought the steels would have been worse. If the rest look this good clean them up with Scotch Brite and reinstall. Remove all signs of hot spots. You may want to check the stack height...
 
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