As an introduction, I’m a proud owner of YZF-R1 and new to this forum and I’m from India. Recently few days back I’ve brought a used 2010 R1 which ran 10k km so far. I’ve no idea about R1 mechanical things and its operations, never used/ride R1 or a liter class bike in past. I’ve been using a lower CC motorbike and I do all servicing by myself. So I’ve some basic mechanical knowledge.
After getting this bike the issues I’m getting are:
#1: Stiff clutch operation: 1st day driven the bike over 400km and felt the clutch operation is very hard, my palm started extreme pain. Does it usual for all R1 as it has no hydraulic clutch? Or do I’ve to oil the with and clutch leaver so that it feels better? Or any other way to make it soft? I tried to adjust the clutch leaver circle adjuster but it just increase the freeplay.
#2: Getting thud noise when changing from N to 1st gear and when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. No sound when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The thud noise is so hard that its scare me all the time. The previous owner said this will happen when the engine is cool, once the engine heats up the noise will reduce. But when driving this doesn’t helps much. Anyone know why this happens? And is there any way to fix this? or this is usual for all 09-14 R1?
#3: Another major thing is the engine response/power is very poor up to 3k RPM. Its like when going at speed 30km @ 2.5k RPM the engine struggle to pull and makes noise like lower CC bike does. Suppose in a lower cc bike or car you go at low speed at 4th gear like the engine does. Not sure its usual for all R1 or its and issue in my bike, please advice.
#4: As it has no fuel meter do you know when the low fuel light starts how much (liter) fuel left in the tank?
#5: This topic discussed a lot and I read many posts but still asking to make sure, does 87 octane which called Unleaded fuel here is ok fro R1 engine? Or its better to use 91 Octane fuel? Please advice.
The rear brake isn't supposed to feel as strong as the front. As I'm sure you've noticed, the rear rotor is very small and there's only one of them because most of the stopping force is supposed to be up front. You'll notice if you try to stop quickly and apply to much back brake you will feel the tire break loose and go into a skid. There is no need for the back to be any stronger than it is in stock form.
Yes I know that, what i mean it has really less bites and very poor stopping power, its like if I give a firm pressure its like no breaking at all. I checked the pads and both are fine.
And can anyone say what is the idle time/km to check or topup and replace Coolant and engine oil?
I don't think it's possible to get chain lube on your rear rotor unless you poured a gallon of lube on your chain, and as a result it's all over the rear wheel and the tail. Just wipe the rotor down for piece of mind. Try putting the bike on a rear stand, rotate the rear wheel and then use your hand to push down on the rear brake lever to see how immediate the braking is applied.
Synthetic oils are most resistant to abuse and yes that is why they are more expensive, they last longer. But the common myth about when people should change oil is basing it on distance; that is WRONG. You should change oil based on how hard you ride your motorcycle. Example, if you and a friend ride the same bike and the same distance everyday for 3 months, and you shift at 6000RPM while he shifts at redline, he will definitely need to change his oil before you do, because his engine is working the oil more. The intervals in the manual are a guideline that you should not exceed especially if you ride aggressively. If you ride around like a grandma then sure stick to the manual intervals. But you will slowly develop confidence and skill as you spend more time riding and reading up on improving your riding.
As far as I know, synthetic oils change color after quite some time/hard use not after 1000KMS, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I was just suspecting that as there was no other changes. Ok I will clean the rotor and check again. And that’s a great input regarding oil change interval and I will keep this in mind. Generally for my old bike I was changing the oil with minerals after 3k km to keep the engine healthy.
Yeah, but if you're running Motul 300v I wouldn't go putting too many km's on it. Yamaha doesn't even recommend their own ester based "racing" oil for standard change intervals saying it's for short change intervals only. Motul doesn't recommend 300v (ester based) for standard change intervals either. So you have an independent oil producer and the motorcycle manufacturer both saying don't use ester based "racing" oils for standard drain intervals. If you want to go standard change intervals (10.000 km per the EU manual) I'd recommend going with Motul 7100 or Yamalube synthetic or Mobil 1 or something of the like.
As for why it's still green, cause that's how it is. It'll be green when you drain it, but darker than when it went in.
Yes I’m running Motul 300v and thanks for the clarification. Before the last oil change it was using Motul 7100 20W50. I used Motul as it claimed to be best and each and every SBK owner uses the same here.
Yeah, but if you're running Motul 300v I wouldn't go putting too many km's on it. Yamaha doesn't even recommend their own ester based "racing" oil for standard change intervals saying it's for short change intervals only. Motul doesn't recommend 300v (ester based) for standard change intervals either. So you have an independent oil producer and the motorcycle manufacturer both saying don't use ester based "racing" oils for standard drain intervals. If you want to go standard change intervals (10.000 km per the EU manual) I'd recommend going with Motul 7100 or Yamalube synthetic or Mobil 1 or something of the like.
As for why it's still green, cause that's how it is. It'll be green when you drain it, but darker than when it went in.
There is no doubt that chain lube on the rotor and pads will deteriorate your brake performance. If you're concerned that you may have gotten chain lube on your rotor I would remove the caliper and clean the rotor and brake pads with scotch-brite and alcohol to remove any residue.
Thanks, I checked the rotor by hand and didnt found anything unusual. I will check it again carefully and clean by a cleaner this weekend and then let you know if any improvements.
1# Regarding the key, when I insert the key at off position to turn it on I have to move the key away from the ‘Off’ lettering on the key assemble and then it moves towards the on position, otherwise its doesn’t move. What I mean is same as the guy is doing in the attached youtube video below. So I don’t know it’s a problem with my key assemble or its default for all Yamaha R1.
#2 Many these like bikes here have a parking mode locks after the normal lock position, where the bike is locked and blinks the 4 turn signals. Normal locking position doesn’t blinks the all turn signal lights, which I use all time. I don’t know about this feature in R1 and there is nothing mentioned in the manual. But the key assemble has a sign of ‘P’ lettering with a icon after the lock lettering but mine doesn’t move to there, either by pushing it down or moving without pushing it. Is this feature available on R1? Or mine just doesn’t work or its the issue with the key assemble or there is no such feature in 2010 R1 and the sign just given anyway?
#3 Another one is regarding the immobilizer small red light in the console. When I turn the key on and then off the red tiny light blinks for around two days and if the bike is idle for 2 days (approx), means the key doesnt on for two-three days, it stops blinking. I couldn’t found any details regarding this light and its functions. Exactly when it goes off completely and what’s its purpose to blinks for 2 days?
#1 and #2 may be related to the same issue, worn key or ignition barrel. Do you have a second key you can try? If so does it make any difference?
Sometimes I get an issue trying to turn the key in the ignition and I just squirt a tiny bit of WD-40 at the ignition barrel and stick the key in then turn it back and forth until it moves freely. that usually sorts it for while.
You should have the park function on your bike, mine does not flash anything but it leaves the small marker lights next to the headlights on.
#3 I have never noticed if the immobilizer indicator light is still flashing after 2 days of not using the bike or not ... don't usually go 2 days without riding it :grin2: but next time its been a couple of days I will check mine and see if its still flashing or not for you.
Not sure about the key I've ordered a WD40 and will apply this weekend and then try.
I checked a R6 forum and manual and it says the immobilizer blinking light goes off after 24 hours and today I noticed mine same but the immobilizer system still working inside.
Also the immobilizer system varies from country or zone models.
Another help require. Any one of know a good branded online riding gears store those service are good like easy returns etc? I was looking for this (Alpinestars T-GP Pro Textile Jacket - RevZilla) and other few stuff. Through google and ratings I found revzila is quite promising but my size was out of stock there. I’ve never ordered gears from any international store as I’ve no idea about import duties additional tax etc because these taxes may goes higher and increase the cost much more plus long waiting. The size I need was available at sportbiketrackgear.com but I had some doubts and I emailed them but no reply even after a week, so I doubt. So if anyone can help.
Also I wanted it like this way if I ship it here it will take over 20 days to reach, so long waiting even after getting it, if it doesn’t fit then return will be a mess, I wanted ship it to CA as my family lives there and someone can try the size and they will send it to me, if return require they can do it fast.
Also anyone know a good local store for gears in Sunnyvale, CA where I can get this? So any one can try the size and get it from there.
Go for the second option. Have someone in California buy it, try it and exchange it if there's an issue and then they can send it to you or bring it with them to India. Try contacting a number of vendors like Motomummy, Riders Discount and Sportbiketrackgear. Also give them your dimensions and they are usually very good at recommending the perfect size.
1# I think the manual says when the engine is off, set the drive mode and then start the engine. From the start I’ve never used A,B mode only driven in STD mode. Last day when playing with the mode I found, when I set the mode to A and then start the engine the mode goes to STD by itself, tried it again and same. Then Put it on B mode and then start, it remain on B mode. Don’t understand this, when the engine is on I changed into modes and it remains fine. But with the mode change I cant feel any difference in engine sound. Though I was just starting it in my garage, not riding. As a beginner rider I want to drive in STD mode and don’t want to take risk by driving in A/B mode.
Those you ride in A/B mode, is there huge difference in power? And what is the correct way to change between mode? When the engine is off or when its started and in idle?
2# I noticed last day when the bike is in neutral gear if the clutch is pressed its all fine, but when I released the clutch to full there was some little kat kat sound in the engine and after some time it goes by itself. If possible I will capture a video for reference. Is this any issue with the gear or clutch?
3# My radiator fins are little dirty I found on youtube best way to clean it is spray a bug and tar remover, keep it for sometime and then use pressure water to clean it. Is it correct way? on the other side an expert car service guy advice me only wash with water, any hard chemical may damage or makes the sensitive fins thinner or may damage the alloy water lines. Please advice. And it is good to install a radiator guard?
#1 You can change drive mode with the clutch pulled in and off the throttle. From what I remember you can start the bike in STD and B mode, but not A. You need to change to A mode with the bike running. All D mode changes is the throttle maps so you won't notice any other changes. B is a slower action and more restricted throttle, STD is more spread out and gets full throttle, and A is more aggressive at the beginning and gets to full throttle a little quicker.
#2 They're noisy with the clutch out in neutral, just the way of it.
#3 Don't use a pressure washer on the radiator, just use soapy water and let it sit then rinse with a hose. You can bend the fins with too much water pressure. A radiator guard is a good idea, especially with the roads you showed us. I have a Cox radiator guard on mine.
#1 You can change drive mode with the clutch pulled in and off the throttle. From what I remember you can start the bike in STD and B mode, but not A. You need to change to A mode with the bike running. All D mode changes is the throttle maps so you won't notice any other changes.
#2 They're noisy with the clutch out in neutral, just the way of it.
#3 Don't use a pressure washer on the radiator, just use soapy water and let it sit then rinse with a hose. You can bend the fins with too much water pressure. A radiator guard is a good idea, especially with the roads you showed us. I have a Cox radiator guard on mine.
Yes, all the youtube videos I saw they are using pressure washer but not high pressure, just little more than tap water. Basically without pressure the bugs and dirt inside the fins wont clear. I will try with car wash shampoo and see what happens.
Another off topic question: I’m ordering this jacket Alpinestars GP Pro Jacket - RevZilla but little confused with the size. As I’ve no option to wear and try as no luck locally, so have to have order online. But I’ve never tried leather riding jackets, for regular winter ware lather jackets the (40M) size fits me good and comfortably but little miss size in riding jackets can move the protectors exact position like elbow etc. According to the size chart the (38 S) Size is perfect for me but I’m not sure if its gone tight and not a comfort wear. Also max time weather is hot here except 4month winter, so Leather jacket is bad option here and if its goes tight then it will be worse. But still I want to go for a leather one. My existing Mesh jacket size and fittings are complete different though its (40M) size and it doesnt feels good like a leather jacket.
Asking because those who choose their size and feels while riding.
Every jacket I have purchased I start with a tight but proper fit because they all stretch with time and a loose jacket will not protect you should you go down. All of my jackets were tight to the point that they were almost a bit uncomfortable until broken in.
# Why do people use this brake reservoir cover? (attached). Does this to prevent the fluid to spill on the painted area if the cap is leaking?
# My wife is weight near about 60kg and she is not slim like me, the rear peg is so high its very difficult for her to get on and off. So far I even cannot get her to seat on the pillion seat, is there any idea to fix this issue? I was thinking about a Foot Peg Lowering Kits like the attached image, if I do so will it make anything difference in balance or while riding?
Please make sure I’ve Leovince exhaust and it has no heat shield and cover and at many places the exhaust pipe is exposed, so its risky also to get a pillion rider.
# Why do people use this brake reservoir cover? (attached). Does this to prevent the fluid to spill on the painted area if the cap is leaking?
# My wife is weight near about 60kg and she is not slim like me, the rear peg is so high its very difficult for her to get on and off. So far I even cannot get her to seat on the pillion seat, is there any idea to fix this issue? I was thinking about a Foot Peg Lowering Kits like the attached image, if I do so will it make anything difference in balance or while riding?
Please make sure I’ve Leovince exhaust and it has no heat shield and cover and at many places the exhaust pipe is exposed, so its risky also to get a pillion rider.
I'm telling your wife you said she's short and fat.
You can try lowering pegs and see how it goes. Which exhaust do you have? I have a LeoVince with carbon cans and it doesn't get that hot. Plus it's tucked under the tail more so it's harder to touch.
LOL, please don’t do that :crying:. Her height same as me 5F8” and under 60 kg, neither short or fat but the rear foot peg is so high its hard to climb. Generally how we get on the pillion seat, first put the left leg on the foot peg, put all weight on it and then jump on the seat, the seat height makes it difficult to get on the bike.
I’ve LeoVince carbon and its too under the tail, but has not much protection like the stock. I’ve never touched the muffler after a ride as I thought its always very hot. At the first my one friend told me he touched the muffler and his hand almost burned, after hearing this I never tried. But I will check its heat next time after a short engine start.
Also I’ve the stock exhaust and all its covers, I will try if I can put the pipe covers in it.
Another question is: what should be use to lube the clutch and throttle wire? Last time I used regular engine oil (thinner grade) to lube the clutch wire, but few type of wire have plastic quoting inside. I heard few type of wires doesnt need oiling, even oiling damages those. I dont know what type of clutch and throttle wire R1 has and what is its recommendation. But I saw a plastic pipe at the end of the clutch wire around the engine oil window. Please let me know. Thanks
You can use MPPL (Multi Purpose Penetrant Lube) on the clutch cable. I usually spray at the lever and right below the clutch cover, it'll feel good after that. As for the throttle cables, why do you feel you need to lube them? Have you felt any sticking with how the throttle tube is performing? To answer your question you can use Teflon lubricant on the throttle cables.
Oh yeah, the way she's doing it seems normal. My wife did the same, step on the left side with her weight on the peg and my shoulders, swing her right leg over to the other peg and sit down. She's about the same height and weight as your wife, too. But, I'd never call her short and fat, just short. Then again I'm 6'2", so most people are short to me.
She never complained about heat from the exhaust either. The passengers legs should come down around the front of the exhaust where there should be covers on both sides.
I've since removed the pegs completely since she doesn't like the seating position and says it hurts her back.
On another note Yesterday I cleaned and found around this area (attached image) there is slight engine oil leaking. The bolts here are TORX STAR type and I didn’t have that socket but I’ve ordered a set and when receive I will open and check why its leaking and if require the O-ring reset or replacement. But until then is there any temporary fixing to stop the leaking? I mean like a good bonding tape around the joints or anything else?
Where I can get Yamaha OEM parts over online? Only genuine Yamaha spares.
Another question: In the 1st attached image of this Crankshaft Sensor Cover you can see there is a bolt at the center, but in mine there have no bolt at the center, 2nd attach image.
In the same 2010 R1 model in few bikes I've seen this bolt and in few its nothing. Why is that?
I was looking this cover over ebay and all are same, no bolts. Also those are selling in ebay does these are Genuine OEM parts? or made by others like aftermarket stuff?
The early models have the bolt, later models don't. You can no longer get the the bolt style since it has been replaced with the newer cover without the bolt.
That cover on eBay is aftermarket Chinese. For OEM look at partzilla.com or European parts dealers.
Thanks for your feedback. Early model means before 2010 or early models in 2010 had that bolt? and what was the bolt for? may be adjusting something inside? For OEM how about this site ?Yamaha Parts Free Shipping Discounted Yamaha Parts
Ok Thanks, my local Yamaha SBK dealer says they have few parts in stock and those are unavailable I've to order them by paying half as advance and they will take one to two month to reach as they will be imported from Japan. So those are I'm looking if those are unavailable I can order them online, and probably they will reach quicker.
I can only find the part number at partzilla.com and in another site, both are US sites. I'm not sure if the parts are cheaper than here, yesterday went to a local Yamaha service center of lower cc bikes (Not SBK service center) for searching of bolts Rivets if anything matches. Mine fairing has few push rivets missing and tow damaged engine bolts, luckily I got the 6mm Rivets there and they took only $0.09 for one piece and the same rivets selling at partzilla for $1.19.
Another question: Yesterday while checking the chain, I found mine chain doesnt have the opening link, by which one can break the chain (attached image) the complete chain was riveted. I've never seen a motorcycle chain without this opening link. Even I check the rear side of the chain but its same. Is it same for all SBK chains or mine is a faulty one. If so then how can I open the chain to clean it very well?
And to remove the front sprocket cover do I have to remove the gear shift linking rod? or it can remove without touching the linking rod?
You don't have an opening link because your chain was put on the proper way. I and most people on this site have a chain installation tool that can break the chain and crush the pins after you put the outside link plate on. I wouldn't ride a bike 600cc's or over with that master link in the chain, don't trust them. You don't need to take the chain off to clean it. If you keep up on your chain maintenance it it will always be clean and never collect debris.
Your lucky I spent hours cleaning the winter gunk off two bikes worth of chains yesterday as I finally got a day dry that was warm enough to venture outside to do it! :crying:
Make sure you take all the guards off the chain including the one that goes around the front sprocket cover underneath the main cover and give them all a good scrub too.
It does take time when it has not been done for ages but with enough Kerosene and good scrubbing brush, a tooth brush to get in the little grooves and lots of rags it will come up all shiny and new again ... after which you will promise yourself that you will not leave it so long next time ... :grin2:
Its been around two month I dot the bike but so far didnt take so much time to clean the chain properly. I have all the tools to clean it, chain cleaning brush to Motul cleaner and lube. I've planned to do it on this weekend, lets see.
If the chain clean frequently then it takes very little time to clean. But once its get dirty for long time it really gets difficult.
Yes its nice as didnt get hots. By little brother burned his thigh by a hot exhaust and the injury was so deep even after many years he still have the mark. Since then I'm very scared of exhaust and very careful with its pipe.
Mine is LeoVince Carbon, however I dont like it and any other aftermarket exhaust personally but love its sound, its weighty than the stock. The LeoVince reduce the rear width looks, I always likes best the stock one for the rear looks. Maybe soon I will back to the stock, I cleaned, packed and stored it.
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