As an introduction, I’m a proud owner of YZF-R1 and new to this forum and I’m from India. Recently few days back I’ve brought a used 2010 R1 which ran 10k km so far. I’ve no idea about R1 mechanical things and its operations, never used/ride R1 or a liter class bike in past. I’ve been using a lower CC motorbike and I do all servicing by myself. So I’ve some basic mechanical knowledge.
After getting this bike the issues I’m getting are:
#1: Stiff clutch operation: 1st day driven the bike over 400km and felt the clutch operation is very hard, my palm started extreme pain. Does it usual for all R1 as it has no hydraulic clutch? Or do I’ve to oil the with and clutch leaver so that it feels better? Or any other way to make it soft? I tried to adjust the clutch leaver circle adjuster but it just increase the freeplay.
#2: Getting thud noise when changing from N to 1st gear and when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. No sound when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The thud noise is so hard that its scare me all the time. The previous owner said this will happen when the engine is cool, once the engine heats up the noise will reduce. But when driving this doesn’t helps much. Anyone know why this happens? And is there any way to fix this? or this is usual for all 09-14 R1?
#3: Another major thing is the engine response/power is very poor up to 3k RPM. Its like when going at speed 30km @ 2.5k RPM the engine struggle to pull and makes noise like lower CC bike does. Suppose in a lower cc bike or car you go at low speed at 4th gear like the engine does. Not sure its usual for all R1 or its and issue in my bike, please advice.
#4: As it has no fuel meter do you know when the low fuel light starts how much (liter) fuel left in the tank?
#5: This topic discussed a lot and I read many posts but still asking to make sure, does 87 octane which called Unleaded fuel here is ok fro R1 engine? Or its better to use 91 Octane fuel? Please advice.
I really surprised that you like the stock bulky look better. I think they may be one of the most ugly out of place looking stock exhaust systems I've ever seen. I sure most on this site agree. That's one of the main reasons why everyone changes them other than sound and performance. Please don't put them on, LOL.
Yes thats true and it depends on taste. In any bikes I always like the stock, 90% time. Any one have seen my bike always asks about the exhaust, whats its price, from where I get it etc. But it was not my interest. Even I canceled many previous deals due to aftermarket installed and no stock parts available with them. Even I never likes the Yamaha engine sound and smoothness, I've test driven Kawasaki and its sound and smoothness is outstanding. But I like R1 looks and get it.
Upto 2014 R1 from back to front all are my fav, even I dont like the 2015 model all parts, mostly the front tiny lights.
Another question: I've ordered a Crankcase Protector Cover like the attached and soon I will get it. But I'm concerned about the installation. I will do it myself and does any one have done this. Its a simple task though, just remove 4 bolts and install it. But I'm concerned if leaking started after removing those bolts? and it has no option remove one, install and tighten and then remove another. I've to remove all four bolts together. I hope you understand what I mean.
Any tips, tricks, advice on this?
Also in big impact this plastic material itself can hit the engine if broken, is it of if I give a padding like foam, rubber pads etc inside to prevent it? or this could increase the engine heat?
Being I've never installed them i'm not sure about any leakage, i'm sure someone else on the site can provide the answer. They are made to go directly over the case with nothing in between so follow the instructions that came with them.
I've seen few youtube videos and all are opening 4bolts together, I just wanted to be sure and dont want to make any mess. If gasket leaking started then the complete gasket need to be replace.
Need an urgent Help: Going for a holiday trip for 10 days and from partzilla.com I'm about to order few parts, If I order it now then when I'm back within that I will get those. But when selecting the model I'm getting these options which I've no idea and never seen before. When I'm selecting 2010 R1 its giving these option:
Great input, thank you. Another thing, our long holidays will be starting next week, also rainy season gone and this is the time when I will get enough time to ride. The bike is idle in garage since last one month.
Like I said about the slight leaking, I used surgical tape which has good bonding, at the both metal contact area from where the oil is leaking. I tested it few times, but it couldnt prevent. I've 3M dual side adhesive tape and I was thinking to apply it to stop the leaking temporarily. It has great bonding and I thought about it at 1st but scared when removing it if this remove the paint from the engine component then? Also does the engine heat will loosen the adhesive? Please advice, I dont want the oil to loose at every ride.
I don't think you're going to stop any oil leak with any sort of adhesive tape. There are very few adhesives that are petroleum resistant. You said the leak was from the bolt in the center of the small pickup cover, right? Have you tried tightening it? Are you ordering a new cover and gasket? Is this 10 day trip on the bike? The oil mostly stays in the pan when not running, so if the race sitting there should be no worries about it leaking. I replaced both of my case covers and worked on my clutch without draining the oil and only lost a couple drops.
Sorry if I was not clear, the oil is leaking only when the engine is running not in idle condition. And its leaking form the side/contact area of both metal. In mine there have no center bolt, the question I asked earlier. Mine is leaking from side wall or underneath.
Just today I got the delivery of the Torx wrench to open those screws. I planed to open, check the oring and reinstall. Max time with proper fitment this issue fixed but unlikely with the wrench I could open 3 screws and at the 4th the screw was so tight the wrench head got damaged.
I'm ordering that small cover, bolts and oring.
No its not a trip on bikes, but my plan is when I'm back by then I have all and I can quickly fix this and makes frequent rides.
yes I'm not worries when its sitting on the garage, but its risky for a long trip. Now I assume my previous low oil level could be due to this, as before I get it just 2month back its oil was changed.
Did you remove the bolts completely one at a time? Try torquing them to spec then back off 1/4 turn at a time on each bolt. This will spread the pressure over all the bolts and keep any one bolt from holding all the pressure. If it's really stuck, try tapping the wrench with a hammer a few times to help release the threads.
I was confused. So it's that small cover that's leaking.
Yes Its the small cover that is leaking. Actually what happened the bike was fall once in past on the right side and only this part got scratches that is why I mainly wanted to replace it, the leaking may have started later. Due to the drag fall two bolts head got badly damaged. If you see the attach image The (B) bolt is badly damaged and The (A) bolt is fine and both are stuck. The (B) bolt head is completely gone and dont know how to remove it. I tried to remove it with a player tool but no luck, I opened another damaged head with that and thats worked. I will try that again when the engine is hot, temp increase decrease the metal and that helps to remove it. I was able to unbolt two of them and I was removing in star pattern like you said "spread the pressure over all the bolts" but at the end the wrench head was damaged. I will post the picture later. I didnt hammer it as I was concerned about the thread. My plan was to replace the two damaged bolts with the clutch wire small cover which has same bolts.
Tomorrow leaving for a trip and too much busy in work at office and packing as well but still wanted to share this.
This weekend put the 3M dual side adhesive tape from where the oil was leaking, afterwards took a short drive for 20minutes at higher RPM throughout, gear up mostly at 5K RPM to check if the leaking is still happening. Back to home and check there was no leaking, check again when the engine was cool and its same. So it worked but don’t know how far it will go and what happen when removing it. I’m concerned if this remove the engine paint with it. Check attachments.
On another note about the battery: When bringing it home after the 450km ride near my house I stopped for taking rest and the key was on and the fan was running. After around 5minutes I turned off the key and when attempted to start it wasn’t, I was very tired and took another 15min rest and after that it started. Yesterday after the ride near my garage I stopped it and the fan was on for 5 minutes again it didn’t start and the after few attempt the battery was dead. Thanks god it didnt happen on the way.
Does this means the battery is in poor condition? This same thing happened with my small car, battery drained due to the fan. Then with the new battery it worked fine for few years.
Yesterday charged the battery and now its starting just a split second push, before this it was taking 2-3 seconds to start when pushing the start button. Does this means a fully charged battery starts quickly? My battery is Excide one don’t know its amp, the stock one is YTZ10S YUASA 8.6A. If I replace the battery is it good to install the stock battery or I can install a Exide battery with same amp? The stock one is very costly and I can get a Excide battery at less than half cost.
Also when I opened the front seat I noticed two electric socket/plug was open, can any one say what it is? and why its not attached? Attachment with red circle.
But the company should make it for reason and they know this will drain the battery. How could the battery dead just 5minute running the fan? even after a 20minutes ride? Is this an issue for all user? The previous owner told me same, not to run the fan when bike is off. Plus if I stop the bike and fan starts running, even on nest start after the key on the fan starts itself and If I start fan and started both load will put on the battery, that is a fast drain.
Think of it another way, if Yamaha thought that tiny little battery could hold up to running the fans for five minutes, they would have them run after you switched the bike to "off". Not a lot of people just let their bike chill with the key in the "on" position. The understanding is you switch the bike to "on" to start the bike.
Are you using the kill switch to shut off the engine or using the ignition? If you're using the kill switch, stop and start using the ignition. This shuts the whole bike off like you're supposed to. The kill switch is more of an emergency shut off. If you're using the kill switch you're also leaving the headlights on if I remember correctly. Fans plus headlights, huge drain.
I have a lithium battery with a simple battery charge indicator (dead, so-so, good) in my bike. One day I (stupidly) turned the key to "on" to pull the flashed image from my ECU right after getting home. I say stupidly because the fans were running. Pulling the image from the ECU takes a while, my charge indicator went from green (good) to yellow (so-so) in about four or five minutes, then the fans finally turned off. The engine was still hot, so all this did was run my battery down. I know it'll still start in the yellow, but I charged it anyway since it's easy to do. If I started it and shut it off, it may not have started again. These bikes take a lot of power to start so if you immediately shut it off after starting you're just screwing yourself.
Back from the trip few days back, did few rides and good news is winter coming. Today received the engine cover protectors, ordered it from ebay @ $119.00 and its very nice and finishing and quality looks good. Just it took 23 days to reach. I will install it very soon.
Thanks, yes I drive carefully and love the bike so it may not happen... but without this I was scared to make leaning sharp turns, now I can do it feel free.
And last weekend worked on the bike to clean the chain, it took a long time as I couldnt remove the chain, but did the perfect job. Concerned is I brought a 400ml Motul chain cleaner, this single cleaning took around 85% of the cleaner. I didnt had the lube so used WD40 instead.
I've doubt too regarding lubing O-ring chains, few people said using Motul chain lube damaged their O-ring chain. I think long time back somewhere I heard O-ring chains doesnt require any lubing. What is the correct way?
Another question: I dont know much about the ECU, just know its an electrical control unit and like a computer of the bike and it does jobs like air fuel mixture etc. Recently on FB page I found this XPlane R1 Custom Tuning and lots of people are talking about and all are very happy with this. Can anyone clear my idea what benefit I will get with this and it will be good for the bike health or not? Please make sure I'm not a racer, neither a track rider, just a street rider. Huge performance upgrade isnt my goal.
Installation done, it looks good. Only concern is after removing bolts in few places oil appeared in the joints area, hopefully after tightening it wont leak. Didnt start or made a test ride, I will try tomorrow.
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