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2010 R1 stiff clutch lever and gear noise

13K views 134 replies 7 participants last post by  soumen.sam 
#1 ·
Hello guys,

As an introduction, I’m a proud owner of YZF-R1 and new to this forum and I’m from India. Recently few days back I’ve brought a used 2010 R1 which ran 10k km so far. I’ve no idea about R1 mechanical things and its operations, never used/ride R1 or a liter class bike in past. I’ve been using a lower CC motorbike and I do all servicing by myself. So I’ve some basic mechanical knowledge.

After getting this bike the issues I’m getting are:

#1: Stiff clutch operation: 1st day driven the bike over 400km and felt the clutch operation is very hard, my palm started extreme pain. Does it usual for all R1 as it has no hydraulic clutch? Or do I’ve to oil the with and clutch leaver so that it feels better? Or any other way to make it soft? I tried to adjust the clutch leaver circle adjuster but it just increase the freeplay.

#2: Getting thud noise when changing from N to 1st gear and when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. No sound when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The thud noise is so hard that its scare me all the time. The previous owner said this will happen when the engine is cool, once the engine heats up the noise will reduce. But when driving this doesn’t helps much. Anyone know why this happens? And is there any way to fix this? or this is usual for all 09-14 R1?

#3: Another major thing is the engine response/power is very poor up to 3k RPM. Its like when going at speed 30km @ 2.5k RPM the engine struggle to pull and makes noise like lower CC bike does. Suppose in a lower cc bike or car you go at low speed at 4th gear like the engine does. Not sure its usual for all R1 or its and issue in my bike, please advice.

#4: As it has no fuel meter do you know when the low fuel light starts how much (liter) fuel left in the tank?

#5: This topic discussed a lot and I read many posts but still asking to make sure, does 87 octane which called Unleaded fuel here is ok fro R1 engine? Or its better to use 91 Octane fuel? Please advice.
 
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#2 ·
#1: lubricate the clutch cable first and if you're still experiencing a stiff pull remove the clutch lever and clean it really well. I was experiencing a stiff pull recently and when I removed the lever I was amazed at how much gunk had built up on it. After I cleaned it I lubed it with some white lithium grease. Smooth as butter now.

#2: I have an '07 and get a "clunk" when going N to 1st. I also get the same sound, but less noticeable, going to 1st to 2nd. I think what you're describing is normal, but without hearing it I can't tell you for sure.

#3: I don't have the crossplane in my '07, but these bikes like to live above 3k RPM. The best thing that you can do to ensure you're getting everything out of it without digging too much into it is basic maintenance (oil change, spark plugs, filters). 35KMH is about 22MPH... at that speed I'm still in 1st, maybe in 2nd gear depending on the situation.

#4: I believe the fuel light comes on when there's .85 gallons left... So somewhere around 3.2L for you?

#5: The manual calls for premium unleaded which I believe is 91 Octane or higher... Florida has 87, 89, and 93 Octane to choose from so I run 93. (Might also explain #3?)
 
#5 ·
Hi milheim, Thank you very much for your feedback.

#1: Yes my initial plan is which you described.

#2: I have never driven a Liter class so don’t know about the gear noise but those lower CC bike I’ve driven or used the sound is very abnormal form me. I will try to video capture the sound so that you can check. And yes when going to 1st to 2nd then noise is lesser than when going N to 1st.

#3: I forgot to mention before getting the bike it was fully well serviced, engine oil to oil filter, air filter etc all changed and during that I installed Leo Vince carbon exhaust. At the first drive I drove 450km at a stress to bring it home and I was so tired I don’t exactly remember the exact kmph but it was between 30kmph to 40kmph and 50kmph to 60kmph depending on gears, 1st to 2nd and 3rd. I was too at 30kmph in 1st gear or 2nd but when changing gear and fully closed the throttle and when opening it again upto 3k RPM it was struggling like I described.

#4: About the fuel light I checked the manual but didn’t get any so far. But I remember with the fuel warning like I drove over 15km before getting a fuel station. So maybe its higher than that.

#5: Yes the manual suggest 91 Octane or above and I’m using 91 Octane.
 
#10 ·
I know a few others mentioned checking the cable adjustment at the bottom of the bike near the oil sight glass. Not sure if you did that or not, but it sounds like your free play isn't the issue. Seeing as you bought the bike used, do you know whether or not the previous owner upgraded the clutch springs? It's pretty common to see something like an EBC clutch kit installed which have stiffer springs. This will make the lever pull harder than factory OEM. Unfortunately I don't think there's a way to know for sure unless you replace your current ones with factory springs.

So assuming that free play is adjusted correctly at the top and bottom of the cable, knowing that you've thoroughly cleaned and lubed the cable, and not knowing which clutch springs you have installed, there is a possibility this is related to your grip strength. I am the wrong person to ask about hydraulic clutch setups. My knowledge ends with "they exist" lol. Hopefully someone else will be of more help to you.

In the mean time, something like this is much cheaper and might actually help.
 

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#11 ·
Thanks for your feedback. Yes I’ve checked all and tuned all at the top and bottom to soften as much as possible than its stock setting, and it improved around 30% I can say. But its still giving pain. It’s a used one and I know the previous owner and the complete clutch system including the cable are all stock, nothing replaced.

Your idea could be right, even I checked the 2015 R1 doesn’t have hydraulic clutch. It could be my hand is new with this clutch, as I’m used to ride lower cc bike with a very soft clutch. That could be another reason.

Someone also advice me to engage the clutch lever fully and tie it up overnight which will reduce the spring tension but I don’t think it’s a good idea for a so higher cc bike, with the cc goes up the clutch spring tension goes stiff. I think hydraulic clutch is the only option to solve this.
 
#12 ·
The clutch is definetley going to be tougher to pull than most smaller cc bikes especially if you don't have good hand and wrist strength it can take a while of riding it for it not to hurt.
Have you adjusted the position of the lever to make it a natural movement as possible to grab and pull it? It can make a huge difference to the amount of pain you will feel.
See here on how to do it correctly for all your pedals
TECH TIPS: How To Adjust Your Clutch and Brake Levers/Pedals
 
#13 ·
Hi Pookidoll, I really appreciate your feedback. Yes you're right plus i'm slim and also since few years i use car for even little long distance and driving motorcycle very less, only city commute max within two KM range. That’s why I may be loosen the strength.

No I haven’t adjusted the position of the lever, but I read your article and its very useful info. I will definitely try this before my next ride.

On another note: On the 1st day I checked the engine oil level was at exact half position between low and full. But now I saw its gone at the low mark, I checked twice but its same. Even I hardly driven 15km after the 1st day and sometime start and keep it idle, few high revs at home to charge the battery. I checked all and there is no leaking at drain bolt and anywhere else. Any idea? Does it eat oil like this?
 
#14 ·
Actually what happened during my last drive at a slight sloped parking when going reverse somehow the rear wheel fall in a big hole but the depth was not so deep, you know like bad parking. Then the oil light came on and engine wasn’t starting. Then I move it to a flat area and then it started. Then I noticed the low oil level. If this happens then in hilly area uphill roads do riders face the same?

Mod: I couldnt get an option to edit the post.
 
#17 ·
Only ride 2km? Riding at 3000 RPM? Predict your next post will be about the battery dying.

If you want the clutch to feel softer you need ride and use it to develop the muscles in your hand. There's no way around this. I installed stronger springs in my clutch and at first it felt stiff and my hand got sore. Now it feels normal and stock clutches feel too soft.

Oil level; since you're on the small size get a friend, maybe two if they're the same build as you, have them hold the bike upright on level ground (not sitting on it) while you check the oil level. These bikes have a level sensor, not a pressure sensor, most people keep their oil level near or at the upper mark to avoid the oil light from coming on.

I'm assuming that's you in the avatar pic? Buy some gear, at least a decent jacket, gloves and boots. You do IT, protect your body so if a sacred cow jumps in front of you, you can walk away and continue to do IT.
 
#19 ·
Hi there, thanks for your feedback.
Here I was talking about before getting this R1, riding my old bike for city commute only for very short distance, like from home to store since past few years, no long rides.

Regarding the Oil level, yes both time I had someone to hole the bike, 1st time I sat on the bike adjust my both legs to make it complete upright and ask another to look and even take a snap so that I can check. 2nd time ask another one to sit on the bike, asked to make it fully align also took a tape to measure both side rear spools to make sure and then I check, don’t know about the ground level as it was a large place, eye cannot catch if its slight slope. Attached is the 1st day pic.

Yes its me on the avatar pic. Lol, as an IT guy I do have to save my hand and head only also I’ve good bonding with cows. Joking apart, It’s a long story, basically it was the 1st time ride when bringing it to home, I had the deal over phone and didn’t physically checked as the bike was in another state which is 470km away from my home, as busy with work I had only two days in weekend to go check the bike and make the deal if all ok and comeback home before Monday. As recently married, wife and family everyone against superbikes and I told them I will bring it on a carrying vehicle. But in mind I didn’t choose this if any scratches, damages etc on the way, people here doesn’t handle these stuff carefully. So I decided to drive it back to home from 470km away. No one knew this and I didn’t told them as they will get tensed until I’m back. So couldn’t take any gears while putting luggage in my car except a pair of gloves in my pocket, you know women’s eyes and on the way brought a helmet. People gets tensed because roads here are not like US, freeways are almost as US but here roads are fills with idiots everywhere so you cant ride at 200kmph on freeways for long. It took me 18 hours and all night rides and reached on Monday dawn, bad weather, storm, rain was a reason though.
 
#18 ·
In regards to your build, strength, and profession there are still ways to strengthen your grip just sitting at your desk. I'm a software developer and also sit at a desk all day. Get a grip strength trainer (I posted a picture on this thread days ago) or even a stress ball. While you're clicking around with your right hand, be squeezing with your left. ;)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
#21 ·
This is why it's best to be off the bike, it's easier to tell if it's balanced upright and the weight of the person doesn't sag the suspension. When I check mine I grab the right grip and foot peg and pull the bike upright while viewing. I can feel when the bike is balanced and get an accurate read on the window. This is where your friend can help you get it upright and steady the bike while you look (again, not sitting on the bike). If you look at the location of the viewing window you can see it's at the very back of the oil pan, so a slight incline front or rear can really throw it off.

Looking at your pic, I'd add oil till it was closer to the upper line.

That's a funny story and explains the lack of gear in the pic.
 
#23 ·
This is why it's best to be off the bike, it's easier to tell if it's balanced upright and the weight of the person doesn't sag the suspension. When I check mine I grab the right grip and foot peg and pull the bike upright while viewing. I can feel when the bike is balanced and get an accurate read on the window. This is where your friend can help you get it upright and steady the bike while you look (again, not sitting on the bike). If you look at the location of the viewing window you can see it's at the very back of the oil pan, so a slight incline front or rear can really throw it off.

Looking at your pic, I'd add oil till it was closer to the upper line.

That's a funny story and explains the lack of gear in the pic.
That's how I've always done it. Just don't drink to many beers before you check the oil using that method. I almost had a bad experience, LOL.
 
#26 ·
Also can any one tell what is this parts/chamber (attached image yellow marked)? As I suspect there could be slightly oil leaking, its not like oil droppings but the joint areas with engine has some oily spots. Can I open this cover without draining the oil? if open, clean attach surface/contact area and then reinstall solve the issue. Also there is little scratches in it so I was planing to open it and repaint that particular cover.
 

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#28 · (Edited)
Okay, does these are parts number? (93210-68001-00) and does these are sealant or gasket? yes thats an good idea I will look for that parts. Problem is here is only one Yamaha SBK dealer in my city and parts availability are very rare and long wait. So I was planing for painting it. And definitely I would do spray paint and match the color by test mixing before final paint. I used to do it with my car to fix scratches by airbrush.

Ok i got it, its the Oring.
 
#29 ·
Could just see if the bolts have come loose, think there 10-12nm

Yamaha part number
Top one gasket, Bottom oring

Buy from america and get it posted on expensive items its cheaper, for europe spec parts i get them from japan direct. For cheap parts i get from the stealership.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I really appreciate that. Yes i google by the part number and saw it on amazon. I will 1st disassemble it once i get time and check, clean and reinstall and if its just due to loosen bolts then fine otherwise i will order those.

BTW i've the workshop manual but didnt get much details about it. It only says its "Pickup rotor cover 1" and I saw the oring there.
 
#31 ·
I'm running 10w40 oil in my bike without any issues. Yamaha recommends 10w40-20w50, so anything in between is okay. Personally I prefer to stay on the thin side of the specs so the motor can spin easier, but that's me.

Shift light is typically for max power and thus higher on the RPM scale, short shifting around town is more of a sound/feel scenario.

Brake fluid should be nearly clear, if it's discolored you should do a flush. Mine was brown after a year so I flushed front and rear with new fluid. Make sure the chain is clean and lubed and sprockets are in good condition (clean the front sprocket buffer occasionally, too). Download the service manual, if you haven't already.
 
#32 ·
Thanks for your feedback. Long time back I studied a lot about the engine oil grade myth, which grade is best for your weather, like hot or cool but now forgot all. What I recall thinner side is better for hot weather like. Mine manual only says 20W50, it doesn’t says any in-between range.

Yes exactly, due to crowed in my town and due to the loud Leovinch I scared to rip high or shift gear in higher rpm, I keep it low as much as possible, that’s why up shifting at 3-4k RPM.

Mine Brake fluid just flushed in last full servicing 1.4k km back and they are all fine and up to the full mark. Yes I cleaned the chain and lube it as much as possible without disassemble it, but still its little dirty, once I get time I will disassemble it and clean the chain and the front and rear sprocket properly. Yes I’ve already downloaded the workshop manual and following that.
 
#33 ·
Another funny question: As the bike is heavy and I’m slim also I’m not used with it, its really gets difficult for me to push it back in neutral or in gear while sitting on the bike, like moving it after parking etc. The rear wheel freeplay, tire pressure all are fine. But when pushing forward its fine no issues but pushing it back without the very flat smooth surface is like hell for me.

Any tips/idea for this?

With my old bike i had this issue sometime on uneven surfaces, but what tricks I use is engage the front disc, push the front shock hard and when the shock returning back I leave the break and the shock reverse foresee helps the bike to push back. But that shock was very soft and this one is very hard so cant do that.
 
#38 ·
Right from the service manual, section 2-2: "SAE 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-40, 20W-40 or 20W-50".

I live in a hot climate (around 100°F/37.8°C the next three days) and don't have any issues with running 10w40.

As for rolling the bike backwards... it's a pain even for me at 6'2"/188 cm, and both my feet are flat on the ground when I sit or even stand up a little. It's simply the amount of strength and leverage in our legs is not very strong going backwards since we do most things going forward. If I know I have to roll the bike backwards uphill, I do it off the bike so I can put more force into pulling the bike back.

Just have him hold the grips to balance the bike, you can feel when it's balanced easier and apply light pressure to either bar to correct.
 
#39 ·
Oh! Sorry I didn’t check the 2-2, I was reading the last specification pages. And that’s very hot, even our climate here mostly very hot and here it goes to max 40°C during summer.

That’s relaxed I thought its for me only, I’m 5’8” and mine half of both feet touches the ground. What I do whenever I park the bike outside I keep it mind that after I’m back I don’t have to move it back only I should move it forward.

The reason I asked the question is, here if I go out with the bike every people on the roads stares and youngsters gets busy to takes snaps. And in that situation if you’re struggling to push it back that’s a shame and people will laugh here. One situation I told when I went to an atm and while back my rear wheel fall in a pothole on a slope ground and the engine stall due to engine oil level, I just handled the situation somehow and lots of people was watching me.

Another question: Someone told me the R1 is tend to drain the battery, is that true? When I was bringing the bike, near my home I stopped for taking rest and the key was on, the coolant fan was running and I let it on until the fan off by itself as it was a long ride and I was riding slow. After that the bike wasn’t starting, then I attempted push start but no luck. Then after 15minutes break, the bike got started by the same battery. I want to know, is it ok to turn the key off when the engine is off and the coolant fan is running or its best to let the fan do its job? Or is it a sign that my battery is not healthy? Mine is a excide dry cell battery.

Since long time I’m confused with the engine cooling feature after the engine stops. Because my old car after a long run when its stops its keeps the fan on for some time and goes off by itself (maybe due to the temperature module) but my new car never runs the fan after the engine off. Even its double CC and larger engine than my old car.

Your bike looks like above 2011 model and red is my best color for bikes, I really like your bike.
 
#44 ·
The engine has to be running to circulate the coolant through the radiator and engine block. The fans are designed to cool the bike while sitting in traffic and not moving, after the engine reaches about 223° F.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Ok thanks for the info. Do you know at what temperature I have to stop the engine and wait to fall the temp? Someone said if its gone above XYZ temp then I've to stop the engine and let it cool for 30minutes. Though on my long ride it never go above 115°C.
If you want to have the fan come on early you will need to flash the ecu I've got mine to come on at 95c turns off at 89c.
milheim05 is correct your water pump isn't on so no coolant will flow
Ok thanks, but for now I don’t want to mess with the electrical. Whenever the fan goes on if the engine is off, I turn off the key. Later I will ask you how to flash the ecu and reinstall its app/codes.
 
#45 ·
There should be a red temperature light on your gauge cluster that comes on when you've reached a certain temp. I've only seen it once on mine, and it was after a long hot ride and the bike was off for about 10 minutes. At 115C I'd expect your fans to be running as that's about 239F. I stopped for gas this morning, turned it off and 212F (100C) and turned it back on to see 230F (110C), but it started without issue and cooled down pretty fast once I was moving. Then again, I have a different engine altogether than you do and I don't know how hot those crossplanes tend to run.
 
#46 ·
Ok, yes there have a red warning light but I’ve never seen that turned on. I only monitor the temp reading.

BTW on my last/fast long ride about 280miles, around the last 50miles it was intolerable to ride the bike because of the heat I was getting mostly in my both thigh (inner portion) and less than that in legs and feet, I had to jump off from the bike at one place. However it was night, cool weather and raining also but I was driving slow around 37miles/hr.

Is this usual for these kind of higher CC bikes? Or mine is unusually heating? Does good riding pants and boots will solve this issue? After this I’m scared to take long ride due to the heating. Even when I started that day I was wearing a leather shoe, you can see in my picture/thumb but after around 50miles or so the shoe got damaged, its sole gone off due to the heat and then I had to change the shoe. The shoe gone more bad what you see on the picture.
 

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#47 · (Edited)
These bikes can be brutally hot. Even when mine doesn't show a very high temp and I'm moving pretty quick, the heat coming off the engine, radiator and exhaust can get up there. At low speeds you're not doing yourself any favors, I find around 45 mph/70 kph is the breaking point with my bike. Below this it doesn't cool very well and above this it can cool efficiently. Also if that 37 mph was preceded by highway speeds of 60+ mph you're going to get some heat soak when you slow down since you're no longer pushing air through the radiator as fast and the engine is going to be hot from running at higher speeds. Now if you were going 37 mph the entire way, I think we need an intervention.
 
#49 ·
Ok I got it. Basically after the sunlight fall I went down to 60kmph for a safe ride on the freeways and then I faced this. Before that it wasnt that trouble.
If your fan comes on as stated above by the other guys you should be able to ride your bike continuously without issue. I road my bike the other day for hours and got stuck on the way home for 5 miles in bumper to bumper traffic in 94 degree F heat and the temp never went above 228 degrees F. I do realize that the cross plane motor runs a little hotter than my 06 but it shouldn't be so bad that you have to get off your bike because your thighs are burning provided, at the very least, your wearing a normal pair of blue jeans and proper underwear. Like Halo_2 said, have your ECU flashed to have the fan come on sooner and the heating issue should improve along with the performance of your bike.
Yes, I noticed the fan even runs when I’m riding it, I can hear the fan sound. I’ve never driven it in hot traffic, only ride it during good weather and on highways, as its really tuff for me to handle it in slower speed. The heat was not like burning, but it was something that I had to stop it and get off. Yes I will study about the ECU flashed very soon.
 
#48 ·
If your fan comes on as stated above by the other guys you should be able to ride your bike continuously without issue. I road my bike the other day for hours and got stuck on the way home for 5 miles in bumper to bumper traffic in 94 degree F heat and the temp never went above 228 degrees F. I do realize that the cross plane motor runs a little hotter than my 06 but it shouldn't be so bad that you have to get off your bike because your thighs are burning provided, at the very least, your wearing a normal pair of blue jeans and proper underwear. Like Halo_2 said, have your ECU flashed to have the fan come on sooner and the heating issue should improve along with the performance of your bike.
 
#50 ·
I have my ECU flashed, fans come on at 207° and turn off at 198°. I found this to be kind of a happy medium for me. I was running 205° and 195°, but it seemed like the fans were always on when riding in town. Crazy what just a few degrees can do to change things.

When those fans come on they blow all that heat right into your legs, so you're on a hot bike blowing hot air into your shins.
 
#51 ·
That's where I feel the most heat also. That's why I wear very high thick socks when doing a casual ride with jeans and extra high timberland boots. A few time I ran to the store a few blocks away to pick up a few things in very hot weather wearing jeans and sneakers with ankle socks and felt like my shins were on fire.
 
#56 ·
I've had a few pairs of shoes that were too tall at the toe to easily get under the shifter. May have to try a few pairs before finding the right ones for you. Although adjusting the shifter around does help a lot.

If you adjust the brake lever be sure to adjust the brake switch as well. Otherwise you could have the brake light on all the time or not at all with the rear brake.
 
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