Valve Adjustment... Zip Ties! - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
09-14 R1 Mechanical Help Mechanical and Critical Issues for the 09-14 R1

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Adjustment... Zip Ties!

Yep. Be sure to have zip ties when you open the top for valve adjustment. Zip ties would have saved me a days worth of labor.

Long story short, the mechanic that was overseeing me was playing Play Station in the house when I finally went it to tell him that

“.....every time I “time” the cams correctly, install the cam chain, and screw on the cam caps....the damn intake cam rotates counterclockwise and throws off timing. The damn thing would skip under the cam chain and everything.”

Him: ”What! Well damn, I’ve never had that happen before............oh.........zip ties. Go getchu some.

Me: “Well that would have been helpful yesterday!!!!”

Him: “I forgot.”

Now keep in mind this guy is getting up there in age and doesn’t have the best memory anymore. Kinda like Ian. @Redgecko

So yes, zip tie the cam chain to the cam gears once the timing is correct, there’s NO cam chain slack on the exhaust side and in between the cam gears, and before installing the cam caps.

The manual does NOT give you this tip.


Here you can see that I’ve timed it perfectly.





Here is where you apply zip ties as tight as you can to prevent the cams and the chain from moving while tightening down the cam caps. Install the cam caps and cam chain tensioner before cutting of the zip ties.


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Me: “You suppose to be The Man; The Expert.”

Him: “Well shit....I can’t remember every damn thang.”


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 07:36 PM
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.....but I remembered after we chatted today that this is technically a :repost:.... one sec and I will dig up the post....
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#158
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 11:19 PM
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@One2

i'll be needing a cheat sheet from yah mate!! my old man's never done a Xplanker B4 so we need as many tips as possible!!

i'm betting it will be my and my high-school buddy who'll do most of the work!
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One2 View Post
Yep. Be sure to have zip ties when you open the top for valve adjustment. Zip ties would have saved me a days worth of labor.

Long story short, the mechanic that was overseeing me was playing Play Station in the house when I finally went it to tell him that

“.....every time I “time” the cams correctly, install the cam chain, and screw on the cam caps....the damn intake cam rotates counterclockwise and throws off timing. The damn thing would skip under the cam chain and everything.”

Him: ”What! Well damn, I’ve never had that happen before............oh.........zip ties. Go getchu some.

Me: “Well that would have been helpful yesterday!!!!”

Him: “I forgot.”

Now keep in mind this guy is getting up there in age and doesn’t have the best memory anymore. Kinda like Ian. @Redgecko

So yes, zip tie the cam chain to the cam gears once the timing is correct, there’s NO cam chain slack on the exhaust side and in between the cam gears, and before installing the cam caps.

The manual does NOT give you this tip.


Here you can see that I’ve timed it perfectly.





Here is where you apply zip ties as tight as you can to prevent the cams and the chain from moving while tightening down the cam caps. Install the cam caps and cam chain tensioner before cutting of the zip ties.






Good tips though.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
@One2

i'll be needing a cheat sheet from yah mate!! my old man's never done a Xplanker B4 so we need as many tips as possible!!

i'm betting it will be my and my high-school buddy who'll do most of the work!
Follow the manual and it’s straight forward. The zip tie trick is pretty much all you need to know on the side. Also, remember to put the valve shim caps back in exhaust where they came out; don’t mismatch them even though they’re all the same.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 08:14 PM
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.....but I remembered after we chatted today that this is technically a :repost:.... one sec and I will dig up the post....
https://www.r1-forum.com/forums/161-...djustment.html

Yep....I knew it was a :rory.....


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#158
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One2 View Post
Follow the manual and it’s straight forward. The zip tie trick is pretty much all you need to know on the side. Also, remember to put the valve shim caps back in exhaust where they came out; don’t mismatch them even though they’re all the same.
I believe we took them all out one at a time and we set them into the compartments in order..

When we did the 2nd valve clearance, I dont see why we would have switched them around to be honest..

I put them all back on after and they're still sitting there, may have swapped 1 or two at most? if any?


Ahh! i see pic on the other post.. good info

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 08:36 AM
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Great info, thanks for sharing.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 10:56 AM
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if you use a paint pen and mark the link on the chain and the corresponding tooth on the crank then you can zip tie the chain to the cams and it keeps its timing. you slip the bottom back on in alignment then pop the cam gears on with no bolts and rotate the crank a little left n right and pop a bolt back into the gears as it lines up and there you have it. make sure the crank and cams aren't 180 when you put it back on and it all goes like butter. if you haven't zip tied it then leaving the cam gears loose from the cams and just rotating them slightly back and forth makes it easier then fighting springs till you get them aligned then throw zip ties and then bolts. it will keep it from skipping while you put bolts in one and spin it back to get the other.

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I'm getting ready to do these adjustments. Did anyone notice improvements in performance after the valve adjustments?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:29 PM
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One2 .....errr @DarkHorse would claim yes. His AFRs did change so there is some evidence for that.


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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueYama1 View Post
I'm getting ready to do these adjustments. Did anyone notice improvements in performance after the valve adjustments?
if you haven't maintained your bike in time and you've lost power because of it then a valve adjustment regains that lost power but it doesn't add anymore then before. if you were to degree your valves while you were there then that can add a bit of actual performance. that is also dependant on how far out the cams are depending on cam chain wear and machining from factory will determine how they were originally and if there is performance to be gained and how much.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 06:54 PM
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Could also have been on the tight or open side from the factory....The Friday evening engine rather than the Tuesday morning engine theory....:....or worse yet the hung over first thing Monday morning engine....
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for everyone feedback.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Could also have been on the tight or open side from the factory....The Friday evening engine rather than the Tuesday morning engine theory....:....or worse yet the hung over first thing Monday morning engine....
This 100%

I did so much tuning and so many bolt on mods and gains were very minimal. I would notice what I thought to be an improvement but nothing like others were experiencing.

Bike always felt like it did and I bought it with just a 3/4th system.

Then I did the valve adjustment. #3 was tight and all others still within spec. Opened up #3 and wow!!!! Huge difference.

The bike would NOT idle after the adjustment was made and when I hooked it up to the computer, my idle AFR was very very lean which means there was a lot more air flowing then before.

I did some AutoTune sessions and a huge amount of fuel was added every.

So to sum it all up, I feel like I’m riding a completely different bike and I’m having to learn it’s power curve all over again.

The difference is that extreme. No lie.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 11:52 AM
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It sounds silly, and i know. The manual says valve check is every 24000miles. Do I check valves more frequently based on how hard I ride? Or do you people just got lemon because of bad luck? Please, enlighten me, thanks.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 02:20 PM
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So to sum it all up, I feel like I’m riding a completely different bike and I’m having to learn it’s power curve all over again.

The difference is that extreme. No lie.
so i figure you will find this interesting. my Raider S has hydraulic valve adjusters but they still need to be 'balanced'.
supposed to be done at 25k kms, but since they're hydraulic most recommend not to bother till 40k kms..
i did the work at 42k on the odo prior putting her back on the road for summer.

it idled perfectly fine but it was running very lean.
I saw 14.6 to 14.9FR easy.. i had to add 5-6 points to get her back to 13.4afr.

i lost about 20 kms of actual distance traveled to just before the red light reserve comes on.
meaning when tuned last year after the new re-flash i was getting 200 kms without reserve.

so yeah it appears I will need to do another couple of AT sessions, i'm likely 5 to 10% off the mark.

on this bike losing 20kms is a pain, as the main tank is only 12 Liters, auxiliary
fuel tank under seat holds 4L, with 3.1L considered actual 'reserve'.

i'm having a little trouble understanding why i'm using more gas but so far i've only seen
AFR at idle so i dont know what she's running like through the rest of the powerband.

although she sounds much better and is smoother i guess its possible i'm not making
as much use-able power which would push me to use more throttle than previously.

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HINSON Billet bskt, Barnett CF stack, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech adjust, ANNITORI RL, CLEVER WOLF CF tank cover, RIZOMA
grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows GYTR, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK
CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18, Motodynamic

Last edited by bacchus40; 04-27-2019 at 02:36 PM.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by y32dsm View Post
It sounds silly, and i know. The manual says valve check is every 24000miles. Do I check valves more frequently based on how hard I ride? Or do you people just got lemon because of bad luck? Please, enlighten me, thanks.
Yes. My mechanic friends who opened up many engines also says to do so especially if it’s a track/race bike.

He recommended 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

Cheap maintenance if you’re doing it yourself.


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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:25 PM
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Alright, so not to de-rail this thread.. i've got an update, and it makes a little more sense now.

I went for a good rip on the Raider to get her back in tune. 2 x 50 minute runs, to the lake and back.
As i got to the lake I had only the android app to play with so i could not see trims, i could only accept all.

As I rode out there it seemed there were times the PCV was adding a bundle of gas and others felt like it was struggling to pull it back

I went with it and found on the way back from the lake the power-band felt a little more like its old self.
It was no longer sluggish in 4th and 5th gear so i figured it may have been running rich on those particular
gears, post valve adjustment. 3rd felt very strange the entire way there, and woke up big time on the
way back even though i could feel the pcV still had work to do.

Once i got back and pulled the 2nd run map I found 3rd gear had been running lean as fvck in lower RPM and low TPS%.
Interestingly enough, accepting suggested trims brought 2nd gear and 3rd gear closer together in terms of % fuel required.

4th and 5th gear had both been running rich as i was nearing the max adjustment limit of 5% on both of 'em,
I can only imagine what % fuel the PCV pulled off during the 1st run but i suspect this is where i lost the 20kms
to the tank. We were running on 3rd 4th and 5th while returning home from the canyon last weekend, so I wouldnt
have been in low gears. It was definitely running rich up in high rpm/ higher gear.

So there you go @DarkHorse , i suspect your own R1 had a similar combination of resulting AFR, at least in my
own experiment, it was only the lower gears which were running LEAN, i was actually rich once I got higher up the RPM.

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DJ PCV, AT200 & POD300, LV EVOII SBK/ARROW SS HEADER, GRAVES STACKS & AIS remove, GYTR air, ECUnleashed, SHORAI, YOYODYNE sc
HINSON Billet bskt, Barnett CF stack, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech adjust, ANNITORI RL, CLEVER WOLF CF tank cover, RIZOMA
grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows GYTR, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK
CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18, Motodynamic

Last edited by bacchus40; 04-28-2019 at 02:29 PM.
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