My R1 is better than your R1 - Page 6 - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
Yamaha YZF-R1 - R1M General Discussion General discussion area specific to the 2015 Yamaha R1M model. Please post all YZF-R1 R1M related topics in this section.

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post #101 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:57 PM
I eat my R1
 
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does the r1M come in yellow?
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post #102 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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does the r1M come in yellow?
nope.

My 2015 build
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post #103 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:57 PM
The R1S Guy!
 
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Except my R1 was the same price, OTD. You lose.
No it wasn't.


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post #104 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:27 PM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
 
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Okay, mine was $14.4k. You?
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post #105 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:34 PM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
 
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Actually, that didn't include tax. Still, for what I use the bike for, I'd pony up the $1k difference everyday.
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post #106 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 09:52 PM
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this is actually the longest thread I have started that I havenīt actually started... Yet I donīt know why it keeps going.
Because of this r1m>r1s


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post #107 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:15 AM
My R1 eats Gixxers
 
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I'm riding an R1S&M. You have to strap in, and it used a YEC controlled steel split fracture con rod to smack your junk around while you try to hang on.
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post #108 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:39 AM
I eat my R1
 
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I'd pony up the $1k difference everyday.
I would too. If it was a bigger difference than it might be a tough call but for 1000 i would pay that for the little extras.
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post #109 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 01:56 PM
I eat my R1
 
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If you look at the valve oem schematics the only parts you need to use to upgrade the valvetrain at any time are:

(8x) "Spring Assy 1" 2CR-12130-09-00 ($100 each = $800)

(8x) "Spring Assy 2" 2CR-12140-09-00 ($100 each = $800)

Total = $1600 (maybe ask for a discount...)

That addresses the valvetrain for a max of $1700 at full retail including a valve cover gasket.

I won't be even considering swapping the connecting rods any time soon.

Basically, it's my guess there is a different in the valve spring tension and the valve spring retainer is totally different, not even close. R1S uses standard valve spring seats (think a thick washer) while the r1 uses a much better lower retainer setup.

That's the difference people.

Plus engine covers and of course the conrods. I'll do the valve work and run 14000rpm I'm thinking.

Thoughts?

Revive this pesky thread! From the dead!

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post #110 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 05:37 PM
I eat my R1
 
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I won't be even considering swapping the connecting rods any time soon.
...
That's the difference people.

Plus engine covers and of course the conrods. I'll do the valve work and run 14000rpm I'm thinking.
What was the conrod change?


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post #111 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 06:11 PM
I eat my R1
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamanonymous View Post
I won't be even considering swapping the connecting rods any time soon.
...
That's the difference people.

Plus engine covers and of course the conrods. I'll do the valve work and run 14000rpm I'm thinking.
What was the conrod change?
The r1s rods are steel.
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post #112 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 09:10 PM
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Because of this r1m>r1s
This dude knows whats up....
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post #113 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 05:48 AM
I eat my R1
 
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The r1s rods are steel.
Right. Of course. I didn't realize you were comparing the S in that last post.


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post #114 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 05:58 AM
Unacceptable
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salazr2 View Post
It used a YEC controlled steel split fracture con rod to smack your junk around while you try to hang on.
x 50
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post #115 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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itīs Alive!

My 2015 build
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post #116 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 06:34 PM
I eat my R1
 
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Originally Posted by yamaharandy View Post
the R1M is kind of a bust. the "ohlins" suspension isn't anything on par with their off the shelf stuff you buy from a retailer. if you don't believe it's not just oem crap try to have them rebuilt and you will quickly find that ohlins doesn't sell the parts... and definitely isn't adequate for racing. this has been said so by many race teams including graves. so what's the point?
who the hell keeps stock fairings for racing? no one. so carbon fiber fairings=waste.
so who needs carbon fiber farings and over priced OEM suspension for street riding? no one. it's just bling. period.
the CCU is cool but it's also just $1200. not really worth it since only a hard core race team would be interested but it's not a serious tool and lacks many functions of professional grade systems offer. suce as being able to pull it up on a laptop instead of a pretend computer tablet. so they're not going to be using it. what can it tell an average track rider? not much since the guy on the 250 just went around you in the same corner lol the stock CCU = entertainment.

R1m...kind of a waste of money when you really crunch the numbers. you will appear to be the coolest guy on the block to most people. but to anyone that knows anything...not really
MAN, I finally find someone else who gets this. The Ohlins stuff on the R1M is higher quality construction than the stock stuff, absolutely - and it's actually really useful to be able to change the settings on the fly electronically. If I were to do a lot of track days, and I had to stick to a stock bike, I would still choose the R1M over the stock R1 or R1S. There are benefits.

However, here in Australia, it's an extra $12,000 for the R1M. I can get the R1 for $19,000 (although it's sticker price is more, you can always get some discount), the R1M is $32K (No discount. It's 32K firm). Add the difference in insurance between the R1 and the M... an extra $800-$900 for the M, and you're basically $13K difference.

So, for $13,000, what can I get? Retail Ohlins, complete ECU retune, flash, aftermarket exhausts, the lot. Especially when you consider, that the stock Ohlins on the R1M is the lowest quality Ohlins stuff they make. It doesn't compare to retail Ohlins. If I got an R1M, the first thing I'd do is get my suspension guy to replace the guts (forks and shocks) with retail Ohlins.

The R1M valving configuration is straight up stock Yamaha spec, with pistons & internals built to a tight budget. The difference in quality, tolerances, valving, all the rest between retail Ohlins and that supplied stock on various models, is huge. The guys on the IBSF (Independent Bike Suspension Forum) all say that the stock internals in Ducati, Honda, and Yamaha factory Ohlins is really not crash hot. You have to throw it away at rebuild time as it's junk.

I spoke to my suspension guy about the R1M, he told me not to waste my money and instead get the base R1 and spend the money on correctly specced retail Ohlins. He also made exactly the same points about the Ohlins CCU you did.
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Last edited by TwentySixRed; 08-20-2017 at 06:55 PM. Reason: needed to add more info
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post #117 of 124 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 08:26 PM
Unacceptable
 
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There's absolutely nothing wrong with the base R1 + genuine aftermarket Ohlins. In fact you don't even need any Ohlins bits up front. Get the stock valves redone (and heavier springs if necessary, depends on your weight) and I guarantee that it's totally sufficient for 95% of even the "A" class trackday whores.
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post #118 of 124 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 10:40 AM
My R1 eats me.
 
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So..... Where i am, the R1S is $3,000 cheaper than the R1. Still worth it to get the R1? I will be using the bike on the street only.
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post #119 of 124 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 01:09 PM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
 
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Paid $12.9k for my R1S

Tuned Saturday, results below with Two Brother's 3/4 S1R. Not as high as the standard R1 but plenty for me on the road. Raised RPM limit to 12.6k
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post #120 of 124 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 04:39 PM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
 
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I like the look of the short 2 Bros S1R, but have been told it kills mid range power b/c it's too short. Your #'s look good, no loss in the mid range.
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