Broke my 2016 Engine while cruising??? - Yamaha R1 Forum: YZF-R1 Forums
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post #1 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Broke my 2016 Engine while cruising???

S0 my 2016 R1 has 4373 mile on it and this Sunday as my brother and I were heading out for a nice long ride she began making this very loud click/clanking noise. I stopped as soon as I heard it. We called for evac and trucked her back home. I swapped my 09 manual CCT for the OEM one on my 2016, hoping it was a complete failure of the CCT, but that didn't fix it. "It" sound like the engine is simply killing herself...so hard to listen to. Since I bought her used from a non Yami dealership, and I no doubt believe the so called aftermarket (non-OEM) warranty she came with is garbage, bases on all the reviews I have read today (yeah of course I didn't research the warranty company when I bought the bike because the warranty was free...so called lifetime power train). With what little mileage that is on her, what is the likelihood that Yamaha will fix her and take responsibility for the defect. There is no reason in the world this bike should be in its current state. I got her with 1880 miles and I have put on the other 2500 miles. Has anyone had any experience with this type of issue.
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post #2 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 08:35 PM
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Sounds like the exact thing that went on mine... take it to a dealer, have them drop the oil pan...

Mine has been in the shop for almost 3 months... Full engine rebuild because I spun a bearing...


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post #3 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 09:12 PM
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Damn man what a bummer, all of these 2016 blowing engines at low mileage is starting to scare me a bit. Mine has 6500 on the clock now.... yikes.

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post #4 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-20-2018, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
Sounds like the exact thing that went on mine... take it to a dealer, have them drop the oil pan...

Mine has been in the shop for almost 3 months... Full engine rebuild because I spun a bearing...


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Did u have a warranty on it. If you did than yours is covered right. If you didn't is Yami covering the failure anyway.?
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post #5 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-21-2018, 04:28 AM
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Unlikely to be covered by Yamaha, outside the timescale plus not even original owner. Try the warranty you bought first would be my suggestion. Good luck.


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post #6 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-21-2018, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MadVlad View Post
Damn man what a bummer, all of these 2016 blowing engines at low mileage is starting to scare me a bit. Mine has 6500 on the clock now.... yikes.
I've got over 20,000 on my 2016. Although, it does seem like the tranny is starting to get a little louder. Could be normal, though...
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post #7 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-21-2018, 08:20 AM
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I've got over 20,000 on my 2016. Although, it does seem like the tranny is starting to get a little louder. Could be normal, though...
Dang man 20k? Nice work Dean! Making me look like a rook haha, I remember on the 2007 I put 20k my first year alone and got that beesh with 4.5k on the clock lol. I gotta boost those mileage numbers up haha

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post #8 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-21-2018, 08:24 AM
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Did u have a warranty on it. If you did than yours is covered right. If you didn't is Yami covering the failure anyway.?


Nope, mine is a 2015 had just over 8,000 miles.... I should be picking it back up within the week but it’s gonna cost me right around $4,000.

I definitely would get it looked at... It could be a slew of different things.


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post #9 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-21-2018, 01:56 PM
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Since I bought her used from a non Yami dealership...
This is what caught my eye. Who knows how the previous owner treated the bike?
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post #10 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 05:44 AM
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Which version R1 do you have? R1M, R1, R1S
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post #11 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 08:29 AM
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Buying a used Motorcycle is as risky as a used car. I have seen people put lipstick on a pig trying to make it look better but it is still a pig (wash/detail before trading in with bald tires/rusted chain).

Most purchases fare well for new owners for the life of the vehicle. However you have no clue if the owner really took care of the oil levels, red lined the motor pulling into a bike night or wore icon. Good luck with the warranty claim.


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post #12 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 08:47 AM
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Buying a used Motorcycle is as risky as a used car. I have seen people put lipstick on a pig trying to make it look better but it is still a pig (wash/detail before trading in with bald tires/rusted chain).



Most purchases fare well for new owners for the life of the vehicle. However you have no clue if the owner really took care of the oil levels, red lined the motor pulling into a bike night or wore icon. Good luck with the warranty claim.


True, my biggest issue is the fact that a major repair like what I needed cost about 1/4 of the value of the bike brand new...

In car terms, that is “total loss” territory for an insurance company...


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post #13 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 08:56 AM
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True, my biggest issue is the fact that a major repair like what I needed cost about 1/4 of the value of the bike brand new...

In car terms, that is “total loss” territory for an insurance company...


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It is all a numbers game with a stupid little old school emoji in front of those numbers. $ <-- this stupid emoji


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post #14 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-22-2018, 09:22 AM
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I know... I bought my bike used from another service member, paid $12k for it with 4K miles... purchased in April...

In August I heard the tapping/clicking... I posted about it on here but, anyway... After the bike was at the dealer for a few weeks they couldn’t find the problem, picked it up and less than 2 miles down the road, tapping sound turned to a horrible broken garbage disposal sound.

Bike had 8k miles on (maybe 9k, cannot remember dealer still has the bike)... They quoted me $4k for the repair... I had a choice... a) have them leave the bike alone and I have a $12k paperweight in the garage or b) pay the $4k and have the bike back... I opted for b, just waiting on the engine rebuild to be complete.

I’m the meantime though, since I live in SoCal and don’t have a car, I had to put a shit load of miles on my FatBoy... At least I was still on two wheels


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post #15 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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On my bike she only had 1800 and looked pristine when I got it, but u r right...no telling how those 1800 were treated.

Need help guys :::::: So I just did a compression test on her. Not sure If I am doing it correctly though. Book calls for 180 to 230 PSI (give or take, avg 206.2) with variance no greater that 15 PSI. My 4 cylinders are between 90 to 93 PSI on brand new gauge from Harbor Freight...I know, please d judge me. Only 3 PIS variance.
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post #16 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 10:25 PM
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What you describes a sounds like a mechanical failure somewhere. Spun bearing, most likely. And that's not going to affect your compression. What you need to do is to take it apart and replace the broken components.
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post #17 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 01:23 PM
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What you need to do is to take it apart and replace the broken components.
what? no way? i was gonna suggest using more tooth paste!

not to knock anybody but it seems most modern riders are prone to just sitting there hoping it will fix itself..


so many times these threads go on for pages and pages of 'diagnosis' based on little more than hearsay,
and easy to run unrelated testing with a little dash of hope somebody will provide the easy answer that wont cost anything.

this is where it comes very much in handy to do your own work.

We got into my engine this year to do the valve check and other upgrades.. there is nothing to it,
follow service manual and keep your shit organized, pics help

if you've got broken parts, it will be very obvious

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Last edited by bacchus40; 11-24-2018 at 01:27 PM.
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post #18 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-25-2018, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
what? no way? i was gonna suggest using more tooth paste!

not to knock anybody but it seems most modern riders are prone to just sitting there hoping it will fix itself..


so many times these threads go on for pages and pages of 'diagnosis' based on little more than hearsay,
and easy to run unrelated testing with a little dash of hope somebody will provide the easy answer that wont cost anything.

this is where it comes very much in handy to do your own work.

We got into my engine this year to do the valve check and other upgrades.. there is nothing to it,
follow service manual and keep your shit organized, pics help

if you've got broken parts, it will be very obvious
Amen! I always preach do it yourself. Most people don't like to hear that, so I held back on this one.
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post #19 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-25-2018, 08:55 AM
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Amen! I always preach do it yourself. Most people don't like to hear that, so I held back on this one.
yep.. thats my approach these days..

just before i put my R1 away last (picked up a chopper to change things up) i had some symptoms come up which alerted me
to 'something' being off. Sure enough as soon as we got into the head it was obvious service was needed, once i was in it
was a 5 second decision to have proper head-work done. In my case it wasn't anything serious at all, rather normal wear/tear.

It has been a great learning experience, same as with any upgrades i've done in the past. You nearly always find
there is no genie in the bottle, pure mechanics. Part a goes into part b, etc and so forth; toss the bent/broken pieces

if the area you live in gets actual winters, even better! no 'down-time'.

just think of it this way, if you can hear pieces rattling around while you 'rev' the engine..
this is not a good sign, there are probably pieces rattling around inside which should not be.

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HINSON Billet bskt, Barnett CF stack, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech adjust, ANNITORI RL, CLEVER WOLF CF tank cover, RIZOMA
grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows GYTR, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK
CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18, Motodynamic

Last edited by bacchus40; 11-25-2018 at 09:04 AM.
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post #20 of 113 (permalink) Old 11-25-2018, 09:14 AM
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apparently this is what an R1 sounds like with a spun bearing.. hell you dont have to tell me twice there is 'something' wrong 'inside'

i doubt changing the spark plugs will fix this



informative video showing exactly what the boys above are discussing, and why spun bearings are bad for you


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DJ PCV, AT200 & POD300, LV EVOII SBK/ARROW SS HEADER, GRAVES STACKS & AIS remove, GYTR air, ECUnleashed, SHORAI, YOYODYNE sc
HINSON Billet bskt, Barnett CF stack, ASV clutch perch, RK520, JT 15T/44T, Lithtech adjust, ANNITORI RL, CLEVER WOLF CF tank cover, RIZOMA
grips, APEX risers, CRG Arrows GYTR, SHOGUN sliders, GBR covers, GYTR db, Watsens, 6000k HID, RACETECH springs, RACETECH G3-LD, OHLINs FPK
CL SBK5/RX3, HEL SS lines, Accossato Radial 19x18, Motodynamic

Last edited by bacchus40; 11-25-2018 at 09:31 AM.
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