|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 05:52 PM|
Originally Posted by andrewstclair View Post
Not to mention a heavier crank should yield a higher top speed (assuming there's no top speed limiter) despite taking a touch longer to get there
But back to the point, good work dude... I seriously hope nothing like this happen to any bike I ever own cause I know I'll just give up on the bastard!
|Today 02:20 PM|
Originally Posted by andrewstclair View Post
Below are my two crank. The top one is my original with the spun bearing and the bottom one is the balanced out R1s, ready to be dropped in my R1.
|Today 01:01 PM|
First pic is from my R1M second is my R1S crank. The weights are substantially larger on the S and the balance would have been way off since the titanium rods are each about 30 grams lighter then the steel rods the S crank was intended for. Good catch on that I never would have thought to check the crank I would have assumed it was the correct one but yes you have to be careful buying anything off of eBay, I see a lot of parts, motors and ecu's especially that are labeled as R1 but it's actually people parting R1S'.
There is a lot of debate about wether a lighter or heavier crank is better and a lot of people like the heavier crank for dampening the force from the pistons firing because it leads to better traction accelerating so you may actually accidently be happier with this setup.
|Today 12:34 PM|
Couple things...my daughter did in fact qualify for JO's in the 100m, the 200m, and the 400m. She is the only girl in her age bracket (17-18, she is 17) from Region 16 to make it in all the individual sprint events...though she did not win any of the events. She took 5th, 5th and 2nd respectively and needed to be top 5 to make it. Anyway, now to my R1.
I had to take her apart, after getting some advice from a very well respect bike mechanic here in Sacramento (see other thread), and took my crank and pistons to a Race Engine Machine shop (in Napa CA). They discovered that I was sold the wrong crank for my bike. I bought the crank off of Ebay (I know...dang it) because it look absolutely pristine, and it was advertised as coming off a 2016 R1, not an R1s. Well it was in perfect condition when I got it, and because I have never seen the difference between the R1s crank and the R1 crank (until now), I did not recognize it was the wrong crank and installed it in my bike. This was the vibration culprit. The machine shop dialed the crank in and got her all balanced up with my Titanium piston rods, to a tighter tolerances than factory, so I am good now. Just waiting on gaskets and bolts (yes factory...haha, from Partzilla) to put her back together. I think I can finally stop stressing over this.
There are two ways I can look at this experience: 1) I can be pissed off that my bike spun a bearing with less than 4500 miles on it, and be even more pissed off that, due to my ignorance, I made a bad situation even worse when I got the wrong crank and I can go around kicking my dog because I am the saddest clown in sad clown town, or 2) I can thank god that I am alive and got to go thru this very challenging life experience where I learned some valuable lessons. I will chose the later thank you very much. So what did I learn from all this...THANK GOT I DON'T OWN A HONDA.
Will come back with an update after she is back together. Have a blessed day...La
|07-03-2019 12:43 PM|
A quick update. What I though was fixed, was well... kinda. The different TBs made things a little better, but the vibration is still there. She is certainly not as smooth as she was before and this is driven me crazy. So much so that I tried to rechecked the balancing shaft to make sure that I didn't mess that up, when I installed it during the engine rebuild. That was a pain in the ass, as my plan was to drop the oil pan and send a camera up to see if I could get an angle on the 3 dots which show you that the gears on the Balancing shaft and the crank shaft are in the correct position. Well, pulled the pan off (along with the exhaust and all the other crap that has to come off to drop the oil pan) and there was no way a small camera was gonna be able to see what I needed to see, but I was able to see that I still had a chance for confirmation. Ya see Yamaha, in their infinite wisdom, actually put a small window that is accessible, if you remove the RT side timing chain engine cover, that allows you to see the two gears coming together, and I could see this window/hole from the inside of the lower portion of the engine. So my dumb ass did all that work and didn't have too...fk me!! Well, I removed this cover (be careful putting this timing chain cover back on because you don't want to damage the small round oil seal that is attached to the inside of the cover itself) and this allowed me to confirm that the balancing shaft is, in fact, installed correctly. So with that out of the way, I rechecked my valve shims and two of them might have been barely out of spec so I re-shimed them...hindsight they were fine, and on the loose end of the spectrum, because it didn't fix the problem. While doing that I was also able to confirm that my timing chain is on correctly in relation to my cams. I have also ohmed all the injectors and the ignition caps and they all are fine. I even used the diagnostic mode to check to see that the injectors are all firing, which they are. SOOOOOO.
I ordered, and just received today, the Carbtune Pro to double check my throttle bodies sync. Maybe my homemade manometer is an issue. I also ordered two used ignition caps just to make sure that a cap is not going bad on me. This bike certainly is not running as smooth as my 2009. With them sitting right next to each other, you can tell there is certainly a difference at idol and when I ride them, my 09 is so much more smoother.
This is driving me crazy and yes I know I am stubborn, but I might have to actually have a pro look at my bike...damn it!! After this weekend I might have more info. However, I might not be able to get to it because my 17 yr old daughter has a big track meet this week (try to qualify for the Junior Olympics).
|06-08-2019 10:26 AM|
|IamLa||I also failed to mention that while taking off the side fairings to swap the throttle Bodies (I take the LF one off and move the ECU, cuz it make it easier to get to the Throttle Position Sensor wires and TB attachment bolts), I finally decided to swap out the lower nose fairing. The one I am referring to is the one at the bottom of the engine by the front wheel that the side fairings attach. The eBay one I got and painted, melted due to exhaust heat. When doing this, I discovered that the middle bolt for the oil cooler wasn't actually attached to the oil cooler. The side bolts were attached, so the oil cooler wasn't going anywhere but it was pressed up against that middle bolt. So I fixed this along with swapping the Throttle Bodies and I swear that damn vibrations could have very well been the oil cooler. Regardless, she is fixed for the most part, but Wow... Just Wow.|
|06-07-2019 09:19 PM|
|IamLa||Finally a little good news for the my R1. I ended up ordering a used Throttle Bodies off of EBay and just finished installing it, after dealing with a loose ECU Harness wire (which ended up being for the Flashtune Bike side Harness). Starter her up and she seemed better almost immediately. Note to everyone who is considering balancing your throttle bodies, the standard throttle body with the white paint (the one you do not touch even if the good lord tells you..."go ahead it, will be fine, I am god") can be any of the 4 TBs. The one I got off of Ebay has the #3 as the standard Throttle body. and my stock one was the #1 TB. I figured this out by looking closely at all the pics of used TBs on EBAY. Anyway, she is running a lot better, though not perfect as before. She still vibrates, but certainly not as bad and the vibration gets gentler above 7000 RPM, which it didn't before. I tried to balance the TBs, but the #3 (the one on mine that u dont touch) was pulling too much vacuum and I could not balance it compared to the #4 TB. I decided not to mess with it and will probable just live with it for now. Good thing is I can ride her again without being so pissed off.|
|05-28-2019 05:59 PM|
Originally Posted by drewsta View Post
|05-28-2019 10:41 AM|
|drewsta||I had an idle issue on my 15 that would cause some surging at idle - almost like it was about to die. Turns out it was the aftermarket Vortex gas cap that I put on.|
|05-27-2019 08:29 PM|
Well, took off the Throttle Bodies and cleaned them today, and while they were out on the desk, I matched up the paint marks as best I could on the #1 TB and re-applied some white paint (it put #1 TB @ one full turn out). So I matched that basic starting point to all the other three TB screws and put her back together. Got my manometer all set up and sync them, and I believe she is pretty dang close. Took her for a ride and the vibration is still there above 6000 RPMs, although she seems to be running smoother. I believe she is missing show and and I get the feeling that if she wasn't missing she would be butter smooth. I am now at my max Mech. Level. Have not earned enough Yami Mech credits to continue. Can't level up at this point damn it. As stated, I believe she is missing some how, some way, but I cant fix her. SHIT!! It sure is nice being back on her though, and she is so close to being herself again. Unfortunately I am gonna have to take her somewhere to get her sorted. I will say that she has a lopping idle, which she never had before, so I am still very hopeful that there is an easy fix.
I wanted to thank you guys for all ur input. U have been fantastic. I will let u know what the end result is as soon as I find out.
|05-22-2019 12:21 PM|
Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
Oh and I am not concerned at all with the condition of this engine, now that I have had her apart and have replaced all the bearings and seals. And not for one second have I ever thought about selling this bike. She is still perfect to me.
|05-22-2019 07:34 AM|
|Kangaroo||Sad to see Yamaha ****ing up on what used to be a bullet proof design. Can it be that Italian bikes are now the go to models for reliability?|
|05-21-2019 10:13 PM|
Originally Posted by Hooli View Post
Although - seriously now, if it wasn't knocking previously - even slightly, and it just spins a bearing out of no where - that's a bit fishy. Chances are it lost oil pressure for a fraction of a second and that bearing grabbed. Why it did that is the big question. Usually its dirty oil, low oil pressure - things like that.
|05-21-2019 08:19 PM|
uhmm.. you touched the one cylinder you were not supposed to touch?
not a good idea. the rest of 'em are supposed to sync up to that one. oops!
|05-19-2019 01:32 PM|
|IamLa||U maybe correct in that they are only $75 on eBay.|
|05-19-2019 12:59 PM|
Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just get a used throttle body?
Sent from my SM-A305F using Tapatalk
|05-19-2019 11:27 AM|
I tried the new four gauge TB syncing tool and quite frankly not impressed. U can dial in the gauges so they don't bounce and it seems like I had to turn the vacuum screw large amounts to get the gauges to move. With my DIY manometer small factions of turns were impactful. After messing with my DYI one more, I am pretty convinced that the vibration is a result of the TB being out of wack. Some of the changes that I am doing are, in fact, smoothing her out. The problem is that I don't seem to be able to balance her fully. Also, I think there is a vacuum leak somewhere because I ran the bike without those four little vacuum caps (by accident) at 6000+RPMs on the street with load, and then ran her the same way with the caps on and there was no difference in the feel at rpm.
Man I must be pissing off my neighbors messing with this loud ass bike. When I finally get her fixed, I will be handing out thank you cards to apologize.
Does anybody know the exact setting of the number one screw on the throttle bodies, the one you're not supposed to move because I moved it a little bit.. before I realized that you weren't supposed to move it. So now I'm in the process of making small incremental resets in the number one screw and in trying to balance the other ones.
Also, I sprayed some carb clean in and around the throttle bodies trying to find the vacuum leak that I think exists, but the engine had no response. Is there a better way to find the vacuum leak. Note: I was all set to use a little propane gas, got a hose taped to the end of my canister so that I could direct apply to those hard to reach places and ran out of propane in my torch...can u believe this shit. I am a series of unfortunate events!!
|05-14-2019 06:57 PM|
yep, i drop shit while working on the bike. I just try to aim away from the
engine and critical parts of the bike which are hard to reach.
to be honest, this is the reason i pulled the engine out of the bike to do valve check etc.
my excuse was that i was getting headwork done but i'm not crazy like some of the other guys on here.
I took the bike apart and once the engine is ready it will go back in there
|05-14-2019 03:52 PM|
Originally Posted by bacchus40 View Post
Wow, you have dropsies just like me.
Got her all put back together, and she fired right up. Still sounds rough. I did, however, let her get up to temp while idling and checked the header temps and now they are all balanced. So that is good. I tried hooking up the new Throttle bodies sync tool, but of course the vacuum line it came with is too big, so hopefully I can get to that tonight, after getting the proper vacuum hose.
|05-12-2019 07:15 PM|
now that is a hell of a story..
if it makes you feel better IamLa, i lost a nut in my Raider S and decided to ride until it dropped. i'm sure it eventually did
then this year i dropped an allen key down the exact same spot!! lucky for moi a long magnet was just right to retrieve it.
I was not about to ride around in hopes it pops up without jamming itself in the middle of the shock
shit happens, i cant believe you found the shim!! thats hilarious
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