Recent content by timdingo

Not complaining at all, in fact. That's why I've described the situation as objective and neutral as I could. I've learned something that is not obvious by reading the vendor's documentation so I'm documenting that here for the members of this board (or Google users, for that matter) to find, if...

Sure but you can adjust that parameter as well to make the TCS kick in sooner or later; it says so in in the Japanese version of the YMS manual. Not the calculation, that's just the way to calculate the difference factor between 2 values.

That'd be the correction factor of the OEM's tyre circumference vs the one that's currently fitted to the bike. Example (fictional numbers): OEM: 620mm, currently fitted one: 630mm. Difference factor formula: (630-620)/620 which would be approximately 0.016.

I once read somewhere the 1-down-then-neutral-then-the-rest-up layout was made mandatory by the US' DOT at some point and it would've cost the Japanese and UK manufacturers too much to do different layouts for different regions around the world.

That's fine, mine is as well. It's considered less safe on public roads due to the fact it's easier to push to downshift in emergency situations.

I'm not talking about 'GP' shift (=reverse), OP said 'MotoGP' pattern. Aside from that: you could, in fact, change the way the transmission works :fact

You've got a, what is called, 'reversed' shifting pattern. MotoGP shift patterns are N-1-2-3-4-5-6, unlike the the regular 1-N-2-3-4-5-6 pattern whether it's the 'reversed' variant where you'd push to upshift or the 'regular' kind where you'd pull to upshift.

Yes: both sides' middle (of 3 per side) longtitude indicators are like that: out- and downwards when facing the rear of the bike.

DanQ, MaRce1o: are you guys still on this thread? Not quite sure what to make of the area behind/under the wear indicator, the rest of the tyre is as clean as it can be.

:corn

That quick change rear wheel mechanism: is that something one could do to a stock swing arm; are those parts for sale somewhere?

I noticed a lot of red Loctite on the OEM parts as well and that's the stuff that needs heat to loosen up. From the Loctite site: "It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)." Sucks your part broke in the process as it looks like it was forced instead of been heated up...

2 drain holes in my previous race bike: was enough for all but the rainiest days, for the current one I'm going to try with 1 hole but I'm expecting having to add another one; we'll see.

That makes a lot of sense. I think I like the concept and it completely explains why the forks don't feel like they linearly travel all the way down. But if I'm honest: it hasn't been a problem thus far. I'm able to brake later with the OEM '16 R1 vs the '10 R1 with aftermarket suspension so I'm...