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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was showing my dad how to do a clutch up wheelie on his 04 r1. Master link came out, chain popped off in mid wheelie doing about 80mph. I pulled in the clutch immediately, and hit the brakes. Went and got the trailer and hauled it back to the house.

Pulled it inside and took the sprocket cover off. The chain was sort of wedged in there between the sprocket and swingarm. Pried it out, started the bike. and put it in 1st. Front sprocket and the shaft has a nice wobble to it.

After a few seconds of spinning. It stopped (locked up) and the bike cut off. Tried starting it a few more times. As soon as you let off the clutch. It cuts off. Let off the clutch kind of slow, you can see it wanting to spin, but then cuts off. Oh yea and it won't go into any gear above neutral, only neutral and 1st.

We tried rocking the sprocket back and forth until it finally came free again. Started the bike up. Put it in first. It spins, and sounds like crap. and it has a nice wobble to it.

Soooo, whats the damage. New tranny? gears? easy fix?. He's a mechanic. and we're both mechanically inclined. We have the extended service manual and the tools. Just need some expert advice!
 

· The Patient
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1,669 Posts
sounds like the countershaft bearing is crushed, dont start it no more, your spreading metal debris around. the balls in the bearing are fukt. you gonna have to tear it apart and hope the housing isnt screwed too, and your output shaft might be bent, ?????????????? its a big ass piece if steel but anything is possible

never use clipon masters unless they are properly safety wired and siliconed and even then you need to check it often.

my best guess without seeing or hearing it
 

· Ghostrider Squadron
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9,259 Posts
prolly output shaft.. been there done that.. i have bent 2 output shafts. thats where wobble comes from. stock is suppose to have runout of .004. for each shaft. .004 if one is tweaked and .004 on other.. thats .008.. there is only .006 in between 2 shafts(lash). motor has to come apart. there maybe other problems. on 04 the output shaft comes with that bearing.. u cant get bearing separate....also why damn thing cost like $170. my first one was bent alittle too much from factory. 1200 miles on it and had it replaced. 2nd one was my fault. getting bike ready for race and started it up, revvig it up checking something... blipping throttle my elbow touched horn button..which is airshifter and it had air and was turned on...at 10k rpms it put bike into 2nd gear, motor died with sidestand down, but it shredded chain, luckily bike didnt take off and destroy itself. put new chain on it, rolled it around and chain went tight to loose. pulled cover off and u could see wobble in output shaft. like 1hander sugguested...i wouldnt run it anymore till u get it apart. no telling what else damage could be done.

u could get it out and send it to R&D motorsports and have him check it. or have it undercut while u there. drop motor and post up pics...sure we can help with getting u in right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok well we almost got the transmission out. we were short one tool, so definitely going to finish up tomorrow and take better pictures of the transmission.

but so far from what we can see, '2nd wheel gear' and '2nd pinion gear' are destroyed. and the drive axle is definitely bent. there were metal shards from the broken gears in the oil pan and all on the inside of the tranny. is this going to damage other stuff? are we going to be able to clean all that metal debris out?

also the block is cracked where the stator goes. oil was leaking from there. i guess the chain slapped it pretty hard before it got wedged in there. hopefully jb welb can fix this or something. i don't know. any ideas? i guess we really did a number on this one.

i'll get more pix up tomorrow evening...







yea it's in the kitchen.



.
 

· Ghostrider Squadron
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9,259 Posts
ouch.. best bet is take it all apart and put in parts washer and clean hell out of it... then clean it again and again. metal will get in small places. take head off and everything out. no way to clean it all when part of motor together. as for crack..u might get away with JB weld it. its not structural, so u can try it. even crank... u need to run it in parts washer... its like big oil tube.. oil flows thru it.. so u need to wash it out several times. if even 1 spec of that broken debris is left in motor and goes thru bearing.. it can spin bearing, and spit out parts in motor. dont take that chance...its only few bucks for gaskets... hell all u really need is basegasket.. the headgasket u can split in 2, and copper coat it and reuse one u have. so all ur out pulling rest of motor is gaskets. and dont reuse rod bolts. they are 1 time use only. order some new ones. dont cheap out on something like this. do it right 1 time....so u dont have to do it more than 1 time or have to get new motor if it spits its guts out.
 

· Ghostrider Squadron
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LOL.. didnt catch that.. wife would kill me if i did that.. she already gets pissed when i use over to heat up bearings and motor parts... put some in ice box to freeze bearings so they fall into cases. she hates it.
 

· Ghostrider Squadron
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9,259 Posts
putting together klz110 motor.. had motor in over, bearings in freezer, dropped on in.. had to do another one. put cases back in over. went to tap next bearing in.. other bearing fell out on floor.. reached down to pick it up... after being 400 degrees for 20 mins.. burnt hell out of my finger. didnt think..just reached. bad part was stupid litttle bearing for like shift drum.. doesnt really do anything and not hard tight fitting bearing. hard to put together motor after scolding 2 fingers on ur main hand... had buddy help and do things i couldnt do with ice bag and towel wrapped on my hands.
 

· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so we ordered all the parts. probably spent no more than $400 on everything. had to get a new sprocket, chain, gaskets, seals, found a transmission on ebay with 4k miles on it, in perfect condition for $100, and other random parts that we needed.

Didn't have toy much trouble tearing the engine down, went pretty smoothly. 2nd gear and 2nd pinion gear were just torn to shreads along with the drive axle being bent. The inside of the case had nicks here and there, but nothing too serious. The engien block was busted, where the generator goes. Put some JB weld on the outside of that, and it seems to be holding up well.

I will tell you, it PAYS to be organized, and that is something we are not. The alcohol didn't help either. We had parts all over the house, and it seemed like every time we were missing a part, it was a washer. We even had to wait a few days, because we had to order a part that we couldn't find.

But we got the bike put back together, even had a guy repaint it for $100, since we had it all apart.

--NEED HELP--

Now the only problem we are having is there is water in the engine somewhere. You can see a milky looking color in the site glass. First we found that one of the seals fell out of the water pump, replaced it. Still the same thing. The oil has been changed FIVE times (we get oil for free from my dads shop) and it still has that milky color to it. I'm sure we're just overlooking something...

What else can we do. Pleeeeeeeease don't say we have to tear the engine apart again, I don't wanna do that for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, we got the water in the oil problem taken care of....and after taking the engine out a second time because we had no sixth gear we found out we were missing two washers on the transmission. Got the bike back together..again..and amazingly with all six gears. Now the only problem is, it idles irradically. I adjusted the idle to around 1200 rpm, and adjusted the throttle cable free-play to spec. Seemed to be doing good but when riding home the other day it started cutting out on me. Then it would either cut off at red-lights or rev really high. It seems like it starts after it gets relatively hot. Any suggestions on what I possibly missed, or did wrong and how I can correct it?
 

· Ghostrider Squadron
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9,259 Posts
good idea.. alway check shifting gears before starting motor. i start my motors in frame..with nothing hooked up. no exhuast and radiator.. just make sure it starts and no leaks..then i will run it thru gears for about 30 secs. then put other stuff back on.
 
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