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If you mean 10 points to describe volts, then that battery is too low. Who prepped the battery? A well charged/new battery should show 12.8v as the ideal (points) number. A battery holds volts. Volts means PUSH. More or less this push will push the starter motor over.. think.

You hear a buzz or hit the start button and it clicks, buzzes, then this means NO PUSH. Hard to say if the new battery will come back with a charge.

Personally, washing a computer bike is a no-no for me. I hand wipe with WD40, and that's everything from plastic to paint. Rust will set in where you didn't air blow off or just let it dry out on its own; down the road it might be a problem having rust locking things up bolt/nut wise.

There is a lot to know about just charging a battery. There is a formula to match the battery charge to the battery. So if the battery reads something like 12N12a, that means to find the correct rated charger. How to find that is, you move the decimal point over to the right of 12a, and now you find a 1.2 amp rated charger and charge it for literally 12 hours.

Say your battery is 12N14a. Then that formula reads as a 1.4 amp rated battery charger and charge it for literally 14 hours. Use the 1.2a rated charger, you will lose .2v of push and the battery will only charge up to 1.2a, not the full 1.4 amp rated of 14a.

Can/can't use a 10a rated car battery charger. That means, yes you can use the higher amp rated charger, but heat is the killer of electrical parts> So if you over cook the battery water, it more boils large bubbles, rips the material inside, rather than a lower, slower cooker, and this more or less pushes out champagne bubbles out of the material so as not to shred the plates. Therefore, you can't cook the battery for that many hours in other words. You'd have to feel the heat of the battery case and that's not what you want to happen with a larger rated amp charger.

Right now, you have whatever is going to dry out, then you need to address the battery as to replacing it, get it pro-rated so as you ask how it was charged before you bought it? Did they just add the acid, hand you the battery and you installed it? Those are short lived batteries when it's just a wet and install.

Walmart might have the charger for the bike battery. Look at the back of the chargers and read the amp rating. I have a 1.5a rated charger, so formula wise, it's just a few minutes difference, give or take, on the hours charged. In other words, it won't matter with a 1.5a charger.

And this type charger does not go to sleep on its own, meaning, it's not the type of charger you keep plugged in during the non-riding times. Something like a smart charger that could recover a battery in said condition is the more overall ideal charger you can keep plugged in and have the charger monitor it during the down seasons.

At this point, you need to address the battery's PUSH. I'd first charge it with the correct charger. I'd then have a voltmeter across the battery to see how much PUSH the battery can deliver. Remember that a battery is the pushing of electricity. So you want to watch how the battery performs during a push situation. That will show a 'load' needed to rotate the starter motor.

If we use these numbers (for argue sake) we want to see a well charged battery at 12.8v. When we start the bike, we want to see the load drop down to 11.1v and recover back to 12.6v+ as soon as the bike starts; then see the bike idle at 14.4v charging the battery.

We watched if the battery can PUSH and recover back to 12 volts plus. If now the battery load drops to 10v, we know that with the charge done for over half a day cooking the acid and distilled water as if mixing oil and vinegar for a salad dressing, applied the load, read that low a number, we have a bad/not initially charged correctly via formula, we need to return it and exchange it.

Then once you have that (replaced) new battery, charge it for half a day or more before installing it in the bike.

Signed,
 
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