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Just Recently bhought a 07 Yamaha R1,
Is this a Good year for Yamaha , Engine wise & Maintenance?
Is there anything I should watch for on this bike?
Love the Looks of this bike.
 

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I have an 07 also. Picked it up used from a rich kid that was too small for it. I had an 05 prior, and after riding the 07 for about 5 months... I have seen no problems. I also have a friend that works at Yamaha, and could have sworn there was an issue with the 07 bikes. But he said they are fine.

Cant wait for spring.
 

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Congratulations..

Bought my -07 almost new.
It have +88k miles on it now.

Clutch is still stock but i've changed clutch boss (hub) because of warn rivets (updated version was released).
However, i know people riding whith it without any problems though.

One ignition coil had to be changed.

There where two main problems and a couple of minor....

1. Worn intake valve shaft which eventually result in dropped valve.
I havn't heard Yamaha present why and what series of bikes that had this issue.

It's not a common problem but severe when it occur, if the bike managed + 6k miles and engine still running there's probably no problem..

2. 5500rpm, second gear stall.
As far as i know only happens to bikes sold on the US market.
A software fault which after massive complaints finally was acknowledged by Yamaha...

3. Since -07 was the first R1 with ride by wire throttle a quite new phenomena emerged, the on/off behaviour when opening the throttle from zero.

Some riders doesn't even concider this a problem, other think it's really annoying.
Easily solved by flashing the ECU with a optimised software..

4. Engine sometimes cut out when closing throttle while riding.
Yamaha finaly "semi" acnowledged the problem and offered a fix for those who complained...

5. Faulty Cam chain tensioner (CCT) resulting in a clattering sound a couple of seconds at startup...
I havn't found any fault as such but have a theory the construction is to blame.

The tensioner plunger have grooves which hold a clip that can move one way and prevent the plunger to move back keeping the chain tensioned.

Problem is, the clip is allowed to move freely with the plunger for a longer distance than the spacing of the groows resulting in chain some times won't reach optimum tension to prevent clatter noise until engine oil pressure take over and hydraulicly tension the chain.

Probably not critical just very anoying.

Can't recommend it but i've solved it by slowly loosening the CCT screws untill i hear the click of the clip moving one groowe, then retighten the CCT.

I did this after i changed both CCT and chain to new stock ones and the clattering was still there.
 

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Had my 07 since brand new, 25k miles on it. I think there was a TPS recall initially, but not even sure it applied to me. Regardless, dealer did it free of charge. The only other problem I've had is the generator puking magnets. It's a VERY common problem on this year (I think 04-08 actually), but not too difficult to fix if you're comfortable working on the bike. It's still the best looking year IMO.
 

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I'd look at getting the updated rotor for the generator if you get one. The glue holding the magnets in place can come apart causing the magnets to disintegrate in the block. I bought my bike in august and didn't know about this issue, then my rotor grenaded itself in December. It's a costly part but may save you a lot of headache in the future.
 

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I'd look at getting the updated rotor for the generator if you get one. The glue holding the magnets in place can come apart causing the magnets to disintegrate in the block. I bought my bike in august and didn't know about this issue, then my rotor grenaded itself in December. It's a costly part but may save you a lot of headache in the future.
I wonder if the stator problem only effect some bad batches or will all eventually fail?

I've had my -07 since almost new and rode a lot of miles on it without any problems (so far i might say).

Centrifugal force of course is a huge factor, you who had the stator fail, how hard did you rev the engine?

I mean, a track bike constantly revs to redline and that's what this kind of bike is made for but a street bike might only rev that hard every now and then.

Is there any way to see if a stator is about to brake or should it bee change for a new one, just in case?

Are there an updated version?
 

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The bike I bought had about 32k miles on it already so I have no idea how it was ridden before, but I could tell some of the work that had been done on it was a little shady. I havent ridden the bike hard myself and never got near redline.

I've heard a few rumors as to why it happens. Some say that the glue just breaks down over time while I've also heard that the bearings it rides on get some play causing the magnets to come into contact with the stator. Either way I don't believe there are any early warning signs. Once it goes, it's gone.

Yamaha did release an updated version where there is a solid metal surface that sits between the magents and the stator, preventing them from ever falling out. It is about $400 usd but I do highly recommend it. It was a pain cleaning the motor out and replacing the bearings in the block as well as the engine cover. That fine magnetic powder will get everywhere. I also stripped a stator bolt trying to get it out so that was not fun.
 

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The bike I bought had about 32k miles on it already so I have no idea how it was ridden before, but I could tell some of the work that had been done on it was a little shady. I havent ridden the bike hard myself and never got near redline.

I've heard a few rumors as to why it happens. Some say that the glue just breaks down over time while I've also heard that the bearings it rides on get some play causing the magnets to come into contact with the stator. Either way I don't believe there are any early warning signs. Once it goes, it's gone.

Yamaha did release an updated version where there is a solid metal surface that sits between the magents and the stator, preventing them from ever falling out. It is about $400 usd but I do highly recommend it. It was a pain cleaning the motor out and replacing the bearings in the block as well as the engine cover. That fine magnetic powder will get everywhere. I also stripped a stator bolt trying to get it out so that was not fun.
Thanks, very good info.
Sorry, just re read your previous post where you clearly explained what i was asking... again :)
(Early morning and on my way to work).

Still some kind of winter here so i'll emediatly look in to it before season start, as you said, really bad if bits of blown stator goes in to the engine :)(y)
 

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I had an 07 4c8 for two years and we did 45,000 miles together. I remember the TPS recall but I’m sure that was my 04 R1. My 07 definitely had the cam chain tensioner replaced under warranty and that really was it. Apart from when I rear ended a car ... but that was hardly Yamaha’s fault... lol

She was an amazing bike and the most beautiful R1 I’ve ever owned. She did have a flat spot around 5k revs (from memory.. it was a long time ago) however that was easily resolved with a PCIII and custom map

This was mine... IMHO she was stunning




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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A follow up...

I havn't given the rotor/stator assembly much attension before but now i realised it's "inverted" compared to normal generators and electric motors...

The stator is the inner part and the rotor the outer...
I.e, centrifugal forces doesn't act the same on magnets/coils as if the rotor was in the center..

So what might be the most probable cause for breakdown?

Glue deteriorate, things come lose and hit other parts.

Bearings get worned down until parts hit eachother..

Rotor body crack, things get loose and hit other things... 20200202_141450.jpg
 

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Seeing as Yamaha never recalled the item, I don't think anyone knows for sure the actual root cause. I'd bet play in bearings or glue degradation. It was only after replacing the generator that I realized the inner bearing was shot.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks guys, i'm gone take a look at this tonight.

Bearings will be fairly easy to inspect.

Glue might be a little tougher but since i've ridden the bike over 80k miles which given the glue many heat cycles it will probably be easy to see how much stress the glue can take before cracking...
 

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A follow up...

I havn't given the rotor/stator assembly much attension before but now i realised it's "inverted" compared to normal generators and electric motors...

The stator is the inner part and the rotor the outer...
I.e, centrifugal forces doesn't act the same on magnets/coils as if the rotor was in the center..

So what might be the most probable cause for breakdown?

Glue deteriorate, things come lose and hit other parts.

Bearings get worned down until parts hit eachother..

Rotor body crack, things get loose and hit other things... View attachment 1010189
I came to the conclusion, that is two bearings.
 

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Inspected the generator yesterday.
Bearings had no exess play and turned freely but both felt like a small particle obstructing.

Havn't found any easy way to determine if the glued magnets will hold, i guess i have to get the updated rotor..
 

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New parts arrived.
The upgraded rotor are so much more robust but the old magnets sit like glued, hehe.

Never the less, new rotor are in place..
20200206_194610.jpg

Changed both bearings.
Had to make a tool to remove the inner one.
Removed most of the head of a M12 allen screw and cut it in half.

Soaked the bearing with cool spray for a minute and it came out very easy.
20200206_191923.jpg
20200206_192016.jpg
20200206_192115.jpg
20200206_192211.jpg
 

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New parts arrived.
The upgraded rotor are so much more robust but the old magnets sit like glued, hehe.

Never the less, new rotor are in place..
View attachment 1010274

Changed both bearings.
Had to make a tool to remove the inner one.
Removed most of the head of a M12 allen screw and cut it in half.

Soaked the bearing with cool spray for a minute and it came out very easy.
View attachment 1010275
View attachment 1010276
View attachment 1010277
View attachment 1010278
How did you saw the bolt?
It's finely.
 

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I used a hacksaw.
It was a 12.9 quallity allen screw which is of higher grade then a regular 8.8 but 12.9 is still mild enough to be cut with a fresh hacksaw blade..

As you can see in the pictures i used a bit of sheet metall to fill up what the blade removed to remain the roundness of the threads.. 20200208_093009.jpg
 
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