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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check for codes first, then check fuel pump output into a beaker and match book's cc values.
there is no codes on dash , fuel pump was tested for pressure , and it's fine . i just can't check flow of pump . before that i check fuel pump , and filter was full of rust from tank . i changed fuel pump filter , and also clean up tank from rust . bike is runing better , but still have same issue that yours .
 

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Maybe no codes on the dash, but I want a clean ECU, so go to history/current and clear whatever is showing. The ECU is like compression... Check that first [a set limp] so we do not chase the tail like not check compression.

The replaceable screen is not usually the culprit. It's the larger black plastic filter housing that can't be replaced without buying the whole pump. You say rust... no power points to a fuel pump.

FI tune-up is a clean air cleaner swap, swap out the plugs, check valve lash.... that's it. How does the air cleaner element look? I'd clean the intake track, run the bike without the filter and see if there is a change. Then you can point to the element. Plugs are every 7.5/8k miles is all the iridium can muster. Very high performance, low mile plugs. Where are we with these two high service parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe no codes on the dash, but I want a clean ECU, so go to history/current and clear whatever is showing. The ECU is like compression... Check that first [a set limp] so we do not chase the tail like not check compression.

The replaceable screen is not usually the culprit. It's the larger black plastic filter housing that can't be replaced without buying the whole pump. You say rust... no power points to a fuel pump.

FI tune-up is a clean air cleaner swap, swap out the plugs, check valve lash.... that's it. How does the air cleaner element look? I'd clean the intake track, run the bike without the filter and see if there is a change. Then you can point to the element. Plugs are every 7.5/8k miles is all the iridium can muster. Very high performance, low mile plugs. Where are we with these two high service parts?
there is only 69 error in ecu memory , i will erase it . filetr is new cleaned and lube K&N , plugs are new , by manual .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe no codes on the dash, but I want a clean ECU, so go to history/current and clear whatever is showing. The ECU is like compression... Check that first [a set limp] so we do not chase the tail like not check compression.

The replaceable screen is not usually the culprit. It's the larger black plastic filter housing that can't be replaced without buying the whole pump. You say rust... no power points to a fuel pump.

FI tune-up is a clean air cleaner swap, swap out the plugs, check valve lash.... that's it. How does the air cleaner element look? I'd clean the intake track, run the bike without the filter and see if there is a change. Then you can point to the element. Plugs are every 7.5/8k miles is all the iridium can muster. Very high performance, low mile plugs. Where are we with these two high service parts?
strange thing is that's when bike is in neutral , rpm go up like crazy , but on ride , specially in 2 -3 -4 gear , after about 10.000 lose power .
 

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strange thing is that's when bike is in neutral , rpm go up like crazy , but on ride , specially in 2 -3 -4 gear , after about 10.000 lose power .
Oh, check your clutch adjustment then. You may need to inspect your clutch pack if the clutch is properly adjusted.

Also, I know that the book says 24,000 miles before a valve adjustment, but if you have a flat spot and the problem persists, you may want to verify the valve lash and check the throttle body sync.

With your air filter and your exup delete and your exhaust, you should consider getting at flash put on the ecu.

The other day I read something about the Coffman exhaust causing issues. I can't remember year. That leads me to believe that it is not a well regarded exhaust. You may consider changing it in the future to a better performing option.

Good luck and happy riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If say it's the pipe you're using, then change the pipe back to stock and see if it takes off after 10k rpm. Sounds like fuel demand. Clogged fuel pump? Code 69 is the exup?
no it's speed sensor after burnout :) it's gone . problem is that i have no stock exhaust for check it . can it be problem of such a power drop . i think maybe it's silencer do that thing . and second it could be fuel problem . maybe i will try first fuel hose mod . i don't know what to do ... and it's not a clutch because plates are replaced maybe 1000 miles ago be previous owner , cable is adjusted perfect , and when problem comes , it can be seen on dash . arrow of tach is stoked in moment an then goes with difficult ...
 

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Stock fuel line? It may be kinked. As the engine warms up, that year Yamaha fuel line seems to like to kink closed killing flow to the injectors. I had an issue of it losing power around 10k rpm and it ended up being the fuel line.

I swapped the fuel line out with new hose and problem solved.

Got a pic of the fuel line? I bet it’s kinked
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stock fuel line? It may be kinked. As the engine warms up, that year Yamaha fuel line seems to like to kink closed killing flow to the injectors. I had an issue of it losing power around 10k rpm and it ended up being the fuel line.

I swapped the fuel line out with new hose and problem solved.

Got a pic of the fuel line? I bet it’s kinked
yes its stock , but i can't see where it can be kniked . and can't find kinked place on line . did you replace it without clips that is on stock fuel line ?
 

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...no it's speed sensor after burnout :) it's gone
If the sensor is gone from a burnout... you've met two types of codes on the list. Those would be;
1. Wire out of connector. Probably not.
2. Connector not connected. Here is one for it to code.
3. Short/open/signal out of range. Here is the other being the signal is no were to be seen if it's not on the bike. = Codes.

Some manufacturers use this; 'we take measures to save the engine'... and your lack of rpm might be the code set. Have to reinstall the unit and no code so FULL POWER returns... san's a swollen fuel line imploding closed.
 

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yes its stock , but i can't see where it can be kniked . and can't find kinked place on line . did you replace it without clips that is on stock fuel line ?
It is the fuel line. They have an outer jacket that hides the kink. When you lower the tank it kinks. Do the fuel line mod asap. This is what mine looked like when I pulled the sheath off


This is what it should look like after.


There is a thread about what to buy and how to do it... search for fuel line mod.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If the sensor is gone from a burnout... you've met two types of codes on the list. Those would be;
1. Wire out of connector. Probably not.
2. Connector not connected. Here is one for it to code.
3. Short/open/signal out of range. Here is the other being the signal is no were to be seen if it's not on the bike. = Codes.

Some manufacturers use this; 'we take measures to save the engine'... and your lack of rpm might be the code set. Have to reinstall the unit and no code so FULL POWER returns... san's a swollen fuel line imploding closed.
sensor is working fine bro ...problem with code was gone after i erase error .
 

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It is the fuel line. They have an outer jacket that hides the kink. When you lower the tank it kinks. Do the fuel line mod asap. This is what mine looked like when I pulled the sheath off


This is what it should look like after.


There is a thread about what to buy and how to do it... search for fuel line mod.
This!

Mine did the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It is the fuel line. They have an outer jacket that hides the kink. When you lower the tank it kinks. Do the fuel line mod asap. This is what mine looked like when I pulled the sheath off


This is what it should look like after.


There is a thread about what to buy and how to do it... search for fuel line mod.
thank you , for advice . i will do it on these days , and will write about result , hope it helps ... i'm feel that bike have big potential , but now it can't power wheelie in first gear ( with front sprocket -1 )
will try it 2 days later . all markets ar closed .
thank you very much for advice !
 

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I have an issue on high rpm, she's lacking power & has flat spots. Others have said it's my fuel line but it is ok. I don't know what to do?
I had this issue with my bike at just over 30,000 miles. I had carbon build up around the valves which caused flat spots on my cam. I had the mechanic clean off the valves and replace the cam and it ran like brand new. The computer won't give you an error code but you may smell unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust and the temperature didn't go as high as normal. When I warmed up my bike at 430 AM for work, I usually got to 180 in about 10 minutes in colder temperature. This particular time, it was 145 after 15 minutes and I had a strong odor of gas emitting from the exhaust. I know this may be a bit of work to get the cams but I believe this is the issue.

If you want to see a pic of the cam, let me know, I can post one tomorrow morning.

Mr R1
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had this issue with my bike at just over 30,000 miles. I had carbon build up around the valves which caused flat spots on my cam. I had the mechanic clean off the valves and replace the cam and it ran like brand new. The computer won't give you an error code but you may smell unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust and the temperature didn't go as high as normal. When I warmed up my bike at 430 AM for work, I usually got to 180 in about 10 minutes in colder temperature. This particular time, it was 145 after 15 minutes and I had a strong odor of gas emitting from the exhaust. I know this may be a bit of work to get the cams but I believe this is the issue.

If you want to see a pic of the cam, let me know, I can post one tomorrow morning.

Mr R1
Thank you for answer .i think it's not my case , because there is no gas smell from exhaust , and also engine is warm up well . on these days in my country is 0 -2c in the morning . and 180F-190F is about in 10 min of run . First of all i will try a fuel line on thee weekend , then will change fuel pump . after these will check valves , and other global things in engine .
 
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