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09,R1
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to forum in general not sure if I'm doing this right. I've looked all on here and can't find any detailed info on a couple things. I'm looking for tips and info sharing on cams port work and overall engine building tips.

The bike has these mods:
FT ECU
FT quick shifter
PCV
Graves stacks
Manual cct
Yoyodyne slipper clutch
Akrapovic Full (not installed)
Nitron 25mm cartridges
Air box mod
Heads are in the process of being ported
Race cam and stock cam

Here's my issue, I can't find any specs on race cams (max lift, duration, overlap lift, PTV, timing vs stock, ect.) The cam I have is used and claimed to be from a SBU race. Does anyone have any info of what Graves, Sbu, Yec cams specs are? Is my cam gonna work for my setup? I will post measurements later. I'm doing the port work myself I know people frown on that and say you'll do more damage than good but I enjoy it even if it's not perfect. It's real hard to find any pics to get a idea of what other people are doing to the ports. If anyone has info on port work and pics that would help a lot. Look at what I've done so far and give some advice.

Last thing is there an alternative to Yec valve springs? I want to experiment with higher lift cam options but for $1200 it seems crazy. Would be interested in a used set.

If I posted this in the wrong place I apologize. Any info would help a lot. I've been trying to figure this out, researching for days now.
 

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'08 r1
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1,655 Posts
If you get the crank rebalanced you can shave quite a bit of weight off of it and it will rev a lot more freely. Supposed to smooth out power delivery a bit too.

With the cams, you would probably have your best luck measuring them rather than going by the spec list for the cam. Of course, after you measure them, you can call sbu and see if it's their cam, but, without knowing what you have, looking at spec sheets is like walking around in the dark with no flashlight.

Web cams list their dimensions on their website.

You could look at kibblewhite springs if you don't want the yec springs. I hear mixed reviews. Imo it's not worth it to try to save money on valve springs though. Kind of a critical part, you know.

Honestly, you should send the top end to a performance shop along with the crank to get it done up right. Probably sell your used cams too. Best to start fresh.

You'll be looking at a chunk of cash for the work, but, building a race motor simply isn't cheap. The maintenance gets expensive quickly as well. You are going to pay for performance, that's just a fact of life.

I understand wanting to save a few bucks. The motor isn't a place to pinch pennies though bud.
 

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09,R1
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply the cams have Web Pn a couple numbers carved in them I couldn't find them on there website. They measure smaller than oem cams but they have smaller base circles the lift numbers were really close to stock the duration looked quicker by eye but didnt measure. I have all the measurements wrote down at home I'll post them when I get there and pics of the ports. And I'm doing this more for a hobby than anything idc about the HP number as much as I do the process if that makes since. And plan on leaving crank stock was thinking about billet rods and HC piston but was told they would change the weight and require crank balance.
 

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Thanks for the reply the cams have Web Pn a couple numbers carved in them I couldn't find them on there website. They measure smaller than oem cams but they have smaller base circles the lift numbers were really close to stock the duration looked quicker by eye but didnt measure. I have all the measurements wrote down at home I'll post them when I get there and pics of the ports. And I'm doing this more for a hobby than anything idc about the HP number as much as I do the process if that makes since. And plan on leaving crank stock was thinking about billet rods and HC piston but was told they would change the weight and require crank balance.
If you don't do anything with the bottom end and you wind the top end up even tighter, chances are you're going to damage the bottom end. That's why I mentioned getting it balanced. If you are doing a build on the top end and race specing the cams, changing the rods and pistons should be a given.

If you just want to do some back yard porting and don't care about the numbers, go for it bud. Just leave the stock cams in there.

Used cams is a no no anyway because the heads and cams wear together. If I were in your shoes I'd get rid of the used cams.

If all you are doing is some back yard porting, keep the stock cams and put a thinner head gasket on and call it good. Or split a stock gasket.

Just my .02
 

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'08 r1
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Here is some interesting reading about the graves cam kit for the 09-14. Apparently it is a regrind through web that kept mostly stock dimensions with a slight change to duration that gives 5-7hp at peak and keeps the midrange. I'd get a tune after the porting and I'd just sell the cams. You should pick up 5-7hp from a tune anyhow.

Edit: that said, to answer your earlier questions more fully, these cams are meant to work with a stock bottom end and stock springs. You could install them fairly guilt free and expect to pick up 5-7 hp. Since you have the stacks, you should get closer to 7-18 over stock. That's actually not bad. With some back yard porting you may or may not beat those numbers.

Regardless, I wish you the best bud, and good luck with your build.

Font Rectangle Screenshot Number Parallel

 

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if you are insistent on doing the port work yourself then i would just clean up the rough casting marks and the divider in the centre of the port where it splits to each valve you and to sharpen but going it evenly from both sides. you can also put an edge on the face leading up to the guide. this is going to cost a lot and you will see minimal gains overall. high lift cams increase the chance of the valve floating open and slamming into the piston even with better springs so most cams aren't huge lift they are just adjustments in duration. the 15+ cams went to an a-symetrical design to give more time at full lift without having to add a bunch of lift. billet rods are a pretty penny and if you change rods or pistons you will need a rebalance, without it your motor is a time bomb. you should have one anyways as they aren't balance to your specific rotating assembly its just the rough factory balance. i suggest doing your port work and the cams then a thinner head gasket to give you a bit of a compression bump. a good tune after that and you should be happy. if you go too crazy with this it will just get more expensive then its worth. keep in mine the new R1 motor puts out more stock then your bike will after a full build so at a certain point it makes sense to just sell it and move up.
 

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I got my stock cams for a 2013 R1 ground/reprofiled. The company asked what I was doing and they gave me the profile that best suited my needs. They also included all of the new timing numbers that I needed.

I don't think I would split the cases and do any bottom end work unless you need to be in there for something else.
 
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