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Hi All,
I've read a lot of threads on the 15+ R1 front brakes and have a few questions specific to my situation I was hoping to get some feedback on.

Currently own a 16 R1 with about 9k :( miles worth of commuting and canyon saddle time. Sold the 600 race bike and am now taking the R1 to the track to mess around for the first time. To date my front brakes have been terrible and im wondering if there are any quick fixes i can do before i head to the track. Ive already changed the front pads to Galfer 1375HH Compound hoping they would improve initial bite and power like they did on my 600 but on this bike i felt very little improvement. At speeds above 80 MPH the bike just wants to keep going and lacks that neck snap initial bite and increasing power as you increase lever pressure. The lever takes at least 1 inch or so of travel to start biting. I also have the lever adjusted to the hardest/fastest setting it will go to. I do plan to bleed the system this weekend but confident there is no air.

I have no desire to rid the bike of the ABS system as i use it daily to commute and ABS has saved me in traffic more than once. Has anyone else tried the galfer pads with success? Could the pads be my issue even though they are fresh? Is there any pad i can slap on there to get a really hard initial bite? Reading through posts alot of people comment that just a vesrah pad change gave them more than enough bite and stopping power and im shocked to hear that with my experience after a pad change.

Any help or insight you guys can provide is appreciated. Thanks all.
 

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Cabin Fever!
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252 Posts
Hi All,
I've read a lot of threads on the 15+ R1 front brakes and have a few questions specific to my situation I was hoping to get some feedback on.

Currently own a 16 R1 with about 9k :( miles worth of commuting and canyon saddle time. Sold the 600 race bike and am now taking the R1 to the track to mess around for the first time. To date my front brakes have been terrible and im wondering if there are any quick fixes i can do before i head to the track. Ive already changed the front pads to Galfer 1375HH Compound hoping they would improve initial bite and power like they did on my 600 but on this bike i felt very little improvement. At speeds above 80 MPH the bike just wants to keep going and lacks that neck snap initial bite and increasing power as you increase lever pressure. The lever takes at least 1 inch or so of travel to start biting. I also have the lever adjusted to the hardest/fastest setting it will go to. I do plan to bleed the system this weekend but confident there is no air.

I have no desire to rid the bike of the ABS system as i use it daily to commute and ABS has saved me in traffic more than once. Has anyone else tried the galfer pads with success? Could the pads be my issue even though they are fresh? Is there any pad i can slap on there to get a really hard initial bite? Reading through posts alot of people comment that just a vesrah pad change gave them more than enough bite and stopping power and im shocked to hear that with my experience after a pad change.

Any help or insight you guys can provide is appreciated. Thanks all.
I cannot give you feedback but I will say I will be trying vesrah for sure on my next outing. I was scared a couple of times during my last track day due to inconsistency and fade of the stock pads w galfer rotors.

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“Rhinestone Cowboy” MF Doom
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10,739 Posts
I cannot give you feedback but I will say I will be trying vesrah for sure on my next outing. I was scared a couple of times during my last track day due to inconsistency and fade of the stock pads w galfer rotors.

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I use the RJL on the street and they are great. Better things at said about the XX pad.
 

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When I first got my R1 the front brakes always feels.... numb and low on stopping power.... I fixed it by just scuffing up the rotors reallllll good with some 120 grid sand papers then clean it with brake cleaner. It was good after that.

I did also have a problem at the track. My suspension was wayyyyy off for my weight. So on really hard braking and going down hill, the rear would start bouncing and sliding around. The ABS would kick it and **** everything up. I ran off the track a few time because of that. After I had the suspension guy fix me up, it was wayyyyy better and the abs never come on again


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SuperbikeUnlimited.com
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1,912 Posts
A different pad may help and that could be all you need to do to make ya happy. If that does not work well enough for you just upgrade the brakes one thing at a time.
Maybe try
1) upgrade the mc
2) get a steel braided abs kit (i noticed better feel with this upgrade)
3) calipers
4) brake rotor upgrade

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Unacceptable
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1,205 Posts
1) upgrade the mc
2) get a steel braided abs kit (i noticed better feel with this upgrade)
3) calipers
4) brake rotor upgrade

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Quality fluid should have been #1.

OP, I'm heading to the track tomorrow. My 2016 is running RJL's and Motul RBF600. ABS system is in place. I'll let you know how things pan out. :)
 

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SuperbikeUnlimited.com
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Quality fluid should have been #1.

OP, I'm heading to the track tomorrow. My 2016 is running RJL's and Motul RBF600. ABS system is in place. I'll let you know how things pan out. :)
Yes. That is true.

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Quality fluid should have been #1.

OP, I'm heading to the track tomorrow. My 2016 is running RJL's and Motul RBF600. ABS system is in place. I'll let you know how things pan out. :)
Keep us posted. I'll be running the same setup except with newer 660 fluid.

For those who changed their MCs. Does the Brembo MC really make a difference on 15+ R1? I upgraded my 15+ s1000RR MC's, there was a slight improvement but not worth the $240 and time spent to install IMO. My first ride on 16 R1 today. Brakes felt very weak and lacked feel and power. I ordered Vesra srjl-xx. But debating whether to get MC or not.
 

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My biggest issue was air in the system right from day one. I have what looks like a miss aligned bleeder screw on the front caliper on the left side. Its not seating correctly and I'm not sure its ever going to seal up 100%. I'm in the process of trying to stop the leak.

But when I do get the air out it is rock hard and seems great. Haven't track tested the system without air yet....
 

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Back to the Yamaha community.
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761 Posts
I switched the stock pads out after 500 miles. The stock brakes felt "wooden" lacking bite and feel. I switched to the Vesrah SRJLXX and the brakes were much better; stronger bite and much better stopping power. After about 1,500 miles I switched the fluid to Motul 600 race fluid and noticed an even firmer lever so that combination is vastly better than stock. Those Vesrah pads have a lot of metal in them so I'm sure they will tear the schit out of the stock rotors on heavy use.

Give the pads and fluid change a try; I think you'll like it. I don't like a progressive brake feel; I prefer initial bite and a strong lever and this did it for me.

I have a set of BrakeTech stainless steel rotors that I'll be switching to after a few track days on the stockers. They are a little thicker but heavier and will sustain the abuse. Hope this helps in some way.
 

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Keep us posted. I'll be running the same setup except with newer 660 fluid.

For those who changed their MCs. Does the Brembo MC really make a difference on 15+ R1? I upgraded my 15+ s1000RR MC's, there was a slight improvement but not worth the $240 and time spent to install IMO. My first ride on 16 R1 today. Brakes felt very weak and lacked feel and power. I ordered Vesra srjl-xx. But debating whether to get MC or not.


+1 on the BREMBO MC.


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Unacceptable
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Keep us posted. I'll be running the same setup except with newer 660 fluid.
Mid-day trackaside report lol. I've had to reset my braking markers...first time I grabbed a handful at the end of the front straight, the bike damn near kept going. Startled the hell out of me. I'll make up my mind soon if I should retain the ABS or at least cut the fronts out of the system and install a direct-line kit. One advantage to doing this mod is being able to finally use that Brembo RCS that's been kicking around my spares box. :D
 

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Track addict.
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If you are running faster than I group pace abs will only get in​ your way. You can disable/re-enable it in a few minutes by pulling the 30 amp fuse under the left rear of your seat​. I'm running top 1/4 of A group pace with stock master and calipers, Vesra pads, abs disabled, and RBF600 fluid. I think the brakes feel fine with this setup.
 

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Be good humans!
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I run in the middle to bottom of the A group and have stock setup with Vesrah pads (big improvement over stock). I do find that the increased lever travel towards the end of aggressive sessions. I am going to try the fluid next.
 

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Curious, what are the symptoms that ABS is limiting your pace or "abs .... getting in​ your way?"


For me it was something with the suspension. The rear would lift and lock. So the ABS kicked in. Mostly in the downhill section.


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Track addict.
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This ABS system doesn't sense front wheel slippage, it senses differences in wheel speeds between the front and rear. Once you get to the point where your braking markers are far enough in that your rear is breaking traction the ABS will activate. It will feel like you're only getting about 50-75% braking effectiveness. The first couple times it happened I thought I was going to run off. Not a comfortable feeling at triple digits speeds. I want to be the one in control of my brakes, not a computer.
 

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None
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rear is breaking traction the ABS will activate. It will feel like you're only getting about 50-75% braking effectiveness.
CCU data from track-days shows ABS kicking in and to date have not felt anything like reduced front-braking.....

Is it true that Front & Rear ABS are actually integrated or actually the front is independent and does not really react to rear?

Know all the fast guys remove ABS, but not sure what are the indications a person reaches that suggests at the point where
advisable to remove/delete/disable....

See attached example CCU/Y-TRAC data where multiple Interventions activating, including for this context Rear ABS,
thus indicative of heavy front braking to the degree rear ABS is activating. Yet, have not felt anything as yet that would indicate
front being impacted by rear ABS interventions.
 

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Track addict.
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That's pretty cool. I don't have a data logger and I don't touch the rear brake unless I'm off in the grass so I can't give any info on it. As you push your braking markers in eventually you will get to the point where it will activate. If you are getting fast I would suggest disabling it preemptively so it doesn't send you off roading the first time it activates.

One sidenote, the brakes should be treated as a rheostat not a switch. Smooth on, smooth off. If you are ham fisted you can get it to activate at a much slower pace. These are the guys that actually need that system.
 

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None
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don't touch the rear brake
Yep, the rear ABS intervention seen on the images is not from applying the rear brake,
that ABS intervention shown is from UBS triggering rear ABS as result of reasonably hard front braking.
At least that is basic understanding.....

Assume in lowest intervention levels, UBS is also adjusted proportionally, what not sure about is to the degree ABS is nearly disabled in
certain PWR, TCS, SCS, ERS configurations.
IE: If ERS is set for M-1 or M-2 then ABS is effectively disabled, but UBS may still have some intervention.

Where what you see in the image is UBS applying the rear brake to the degree ABS intervenes as result of rear being very light.
 
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