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My R1 eats my wallet
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113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I have looked/ searched all the posts about this system, and PMed a few people on here too, so far I haven't heard anything back.

So, here is my question:
Before I go through all the BS :snorkel of pulling the radiator and potentially breaking an exhaust manifold bolt off in the head:banghead: , I would like to know if I can just disable the AIS. I want to see what help if any is noticeable in the backfire/ popping area. As it is currently, I have a large amount of crackle and pop (all my exhaust joints are tight w/out any leaks, and the can has been re-assemble using high temperature RTV at both end )

From what I can tell, if I just block of the large hose going to the air box, and plug the small vacuum line this should yield the same result as if I have pulled the system.

Is this correct?
 

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YOU LIKE THAT, DONT YOU?
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4,056 Posts
Do it right. It will be worth it. :fact
 

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My R1 eats my wallet
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113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
u need to block the 4 holes comming from the head near the headers.
I know that I will need to do this after I remove the AIS, but will what I said work to test the effects of removal prior to actually removing the AIS?
 

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THE MAN
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3,743 Posts
you are correct. If you plug off the vacume line and plug the air box it will disable it.

It will slove or help solve you poping on decelearation problem.

I am guessing you have an aftermarket pipe on the bike and now it pops when you let off the throttle and slow down?

The idle mixture screws should be right around 3 a/2 turns out from lightly seated. If you do that and disable the AIS then the poping will 99% of the time go away.

On these bikes usually I just tap the head after pulling out the elbows (a real bitch!!) and get bolts to put in the holes I tapped. I dip the bolts in JB weld before I install them, and have never had one come out yet :)

I wish It was a bit more like Suzuki's system where it is easier to remove and block off, but thats what it is :)
 

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My R1 eats my wallet
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113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for answering my question brother.

I have a K&N filter, D&D slip-on(was a full set, but with my 260lbs. I needed the exup back to leave stop lights without clutching the heck out of it), and a dyno jet kit. The bike has always crackled a little from stock, but with the D&D you can really hear it now. The bike runs fine, but the popping does not do this bike justice.

I just had the bike dyno tuned and rejeted (they disabled the AIS when they jetted it, but it is all there now), so the air/fuel is more or less right. I thought getting a better rejet would cure this, it did not, but it runs a lot better now.

FWIW: If this mod does what I want it to, I will be tapping the end of the elbows and using some high temp RVT as a thread lock(it worked great at keeping bolts from vibrating out on my 360 SX bike, and the R1 is not that buzzy).

Thanks again
 

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mines in the shop
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95 Posts
i did the same thing with mine drilled and tapped out the elbows. i also put a thread locker compound on them and i threaded a nut on the bolt to act as pinch nut so it will not back off . never had a problem and no leaks in over a year.
 

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My R1 eats my wallet
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113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was thinking loctite would be useless because of the heat(it melts). The jam nut thing I never thought of, I might use that Idea, thanks.
 
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